mk2

You'll break the engine doing that... i wrote: >>>engine on, but not running<<< Not familiar with the D8, so you'll have to explore till you find it- in there should be an option to watch the live throttle data measurements. It'll either tell you readings in volts, typically between 0.4-4.6 ish, or in % 0-100. And if you have a graphing function, you could display the data on there: As you slowly press the throttle pedal from off to full to the floor, you should see a smooth increase in readings.

That is seriously low, and you're not on air like Ray or Pete. Any half shaft to chassis denting going on? You said you didn't notch, so that must be very close or you take speed bumps with extreme care! Yep, those pads look cooked. Happened to me a year ago too. One of the pads separated from the steel backer and spun into the gap between the pad backer and the caliper, like a wedge. Scary too as I was "enthusiatically" stopping at a T junc when my brake pedal sunk to the floor with a bang. Nursed it a few yards before checking, and all appeared to be fine because the caliper simply expanded with fresh fluid. Drove another 10 miles on an A road at 60 and when stopping the air filled with a burning smell... The disc was actually glowing cherry red. 😦 who is the blue one? Are they on here? Nice

Both of those are insane! Love it! Big ups to you mate. what wheels and tyre setup have you on the Rosa? More like rubber bands.

Not sure on the details of your exact unit, but typically, there are 6 pins. Two go directly to the motor. The other 4 (maybe 6) are a +ve feed and and earth, the other two are the returns, one increases as the throttle opens and the other decreases as the throttle opens. Basically a failsafe system. There are two potentiometers connected in parrallel (internally), but in reverse if you see what I mean. I wonder if maybe the earth line is high resistance, or maybe the positive feed is being dragged down by some other sensor elsewhere. EGR circuit? I don't think the problem has anything to do with the throttle body.

A mk4 golf country (sort of)! Cool. Real or photoshop? Can't believe anything you see anymore! So the shocks fit the front. Exact same hub carrier mounting holes, spring plate height and shock travel. Interesting. I wonder if Imprezza hubs work. (Schedules next trip to breakers in diary...) Yeah, i dunno how Demon tweaks do their springs so cheap. Bought quite a few from them over the years.

The Imprezza shocks fit the rear of a Lupo/Rosa? That's good to know. You can use stock mk4 golf front springs (poverty spec) to lower a Lupo. And mk3 to go even lower... Were those small rear coils specific for Lupo/Rosa?

Hmm. That does sound like the throttle body- well actually the TPS sensor inside it. Ok, so what I'd do to prove it is try and look at the throttle readings (engine on, but not running). Not familiar with the D8, so you'll have to explore till you find it- in there should be an option to watch the live throttle data measurements. It'll either tell you readings in volts, typically between 0.4-4.6 ish, or in % 0-100. And if you have a graphing function, you could display the data on there: As you slowly press the throttle pedal from off to full to the floor, you should see a smooth increase in readings. If you get that, the the TPS is fine. Chances are it's the motor linkage to the throttle flap. Actually you can check the movement of the throttle flap by trying to push it open with your fingers. There should be resistance, but not crazy stiff. Sticky throttles can give those codes- the ECU tries to open it by applying a specific voltage, which should (a split second later) go to the position demanded. If it takes too long, or doesn't reach the point the ECU expects, it'll flag a fault. All your codes could be from that. But, a new throttle body should work perfectly out of the box. So I'm thinking that there might be a wiring issue, or perhaps not enough voltage to make the throttle flap motor work at full power. Could be a power relay, a loose fuse or a loose connectir somewhere. Or even a broken(intermittant) loom wire. The EGR fault codes hint at a wiring fault as well- like a plug not connected or a broken wire. You could try spraying some penetrating lube at the throttle flap spindle bearings to see if that loosens it up a bit, if it was a bit slow/stiff. When operating, they open and close really fast, like zip-zip. Half a second from closed to open back to closed again.

From the description, could be anything! Even the gearbox. Any diagnostic codes? Why has it been reprogrammed? That's kinda wierd. (Or do you mean the fault codes were cleared?) Surprised about the throttle bodies. They get gunged, but don't usually fail. And a long run on the motorway once a month sorts out the EGR. Leaving the car idling from cold for a while kills engines. Any engine. Drive it straightaway once starting from cold.

So drives fine and when idling once warmed up throws a code. Yeah, i'm still convinced that it's a plenum/inlet manifold leak. A tiny air leak will only affect the idling once warmed up. Not when cold. You could move around injectors, but i don't think that'll move the fault. The O2 sensor reading via VCDS will tell you what's going on. Too lean or just right as the engine warms up, and while being driven. Late edit- just thought- ignore the fault for the minute and just drive the car normally for a couple of weeks. Then pull the plugs and analyse the colour.

Mk2 golf key spotted 👍🏻 @Skezza is our expert for immo stuff. I know nothing.

Yep. But a low reading should make it run rich... It is a dual sensor (i think on this model). One runs the instruments, the other the ECU. You might have a stuck thermostat too. They're cheap to swap over at the same time as doing the temp sensor.

Ah, you know it... CL's not the same without the old motly crew. @Rich said the same a few months back. Hey, at least it's better on here than club polo or Mk4s.

Sorry, who are you?

He's normally living on a mountain top in central Durham...

Yeah it can. The problem you'll have is the pedals. My guess is small feet also? The pedals are high off the floor like most newer cars. The temporary solution I came up with for someone to drive my car, was to make a carefully shaped board that fitted under the mat, very securely (for safety). Starting off at floor level under the front of the seat to 50mm above the floor where it met the firewall.

I wonder how many of the facebook Lupo crew do this CLub Lupo thing too? I gave up with FB TBH.

The last one a few of us went to was Wallingford based. Pretty much central south.

Compression looks fine. Within 10% is ok. Did you by remote chance buy this car off a pikey...? 3 types of plugs. That's a first for me! Not seen that before. Technically it shouldn't make any difference if they're all the same heat rating, gap, depth and resistance. The third one (snow white insulator) might be the problem cylinder. That plug looks awfully clean; Running too lean.

Proper. 👍🏻

Ok, so egr stuff sounds like short circuit. Check each wire to the solenoid to see what you get. Shouldn't be earth. what colour is the plug in 4?

Swap left and right till you find one... Very common to break. I have one spare left for mine, as I've been through two already! If you go to a breakers, get every ine you can find if still in usable condition. Just like the rear centre brake light lens and front indicator grille panel. Hens teeth. There are alternative aftermarket parts- fit mk2 golf. And custom ali designs, but you'll need two to look right.

We're now all watching this thread with interest... 👍🏻

Rubbish.

Yep