Goz

On the plus side just measured the front pads and they are 6mm ... they SHOULD be in contact with the discs right? The discs were pretty hot after a 30 min drive through town though ... I could still bare to touch them for a second though ...

So the past couple of days I've thought the car felt really heavy on acceleration. I've been conviced the brakes are sticking. So today I knocked on the rear brake housing with a hammer and the car definitely felt less heavy afterwards. Only bugger I now get is that when i release the brake (I do have to be under power though, in neutral on a flat road it doesn't happen) I get a small squeak. The teenager assures me its coming from the driver side rear wheel. Anyone got any ideas what that could be? Do i need to get the rear brakes replaced? I have recently had the rear suspension replaced but i never noticed it before the car started feeling heavy and i did the hammer thing (they used to creak a bit first thing in the morning though!) ...

**** dude ... check out your local Formula one autocenter would be my suggestion then

So does the engine cut out when in full lock? Because mine does that (only when cold it seems). If i full lock (though only to the left) then the engine seems to stall. I have no other problems with it and the old dear who gave it to me said she'd had the problem as long as she could remember ...

Should also say that I had the ATF changed and its definitely running nicer ... no jolts on gear changes anymore ... I can now feel the gear change through my left foot but nothing like as bad as it was. I'm thinking, though, that it sounds a bit whinier when i put my foot down but I dunno if thats A) Paranoia or How its supposed to sound and it just hasn't sounded right for the 6 months i've had the thing

So I also received my Vagcom today ... I checked the ATF and it was complaining about intermittent communication so i cleared it ... and no other fault codes came up ... I hope thats good news Anyway .. i was wondering if i could check the ABS and engine info and neither would respond. Is there an "idiots guide" to vagcom around anywhere?

Certain things I'll do ... but not that ... Ill fail to put it back together correctly

Its a bit of a trek to Newport with one broken coil and a leaking shock absorber though Btw, finally found someone who will drain and replace my ATF ... they're quoting £81.60 ... is that high? Alas, though, there appears to be noone else in Oxford who will do it for me (short of the VW garage, and I'd wager they'd discover that my whole transmission is shot and needs to be replaced )

And sorry, just looked up my receipt .. he originally said it was be £450 .. but it was actually £380 for all of the above ...

Well that wasn't just for the rear suspension, that was both rear coils and shock absorbers being replaced, a general service and an MOT ...

One thing I found while reading around is that if the ATF heats up too much (a sign of fluid that needs replacing) then it starts to slip as the fluid is no longer lubricating properly ... so that would fit my issue. Can't be 100% sure thats the problem though ... i'll be miffed if the auto gearbox has gone though .. just spent £450 getting new rear suspension and stuff for its MOT

Cheers dude, ill get it looked at and have ordered a vagcom cable .. will report back with any findings

I would wager, having read around, that it has never been changed ... Is it really likely to cause problems when the engine is hot if the transmission fluid is low though? My, very limited, understanding is that it would be bad when the engine is cold ...

Not yet. Looking at buying one at the moment as it happens. Anyone in the Oxford area got one I could plug into and check the state of it?

Hi all, I have a 2000 VW Lupo 1.4 Auto. Its been running fine up until a week back. At that point I was driving round the M25 (I'd been on the road over an hour at this point) at about 65-70 when suddenly my revs dropped down and I lost power for a second. A second later the revs were back up and it was driving fine. After leaving the motorway I noticed that it was refusing to switch into highest gear for some reason. I got home and left it till the next day. The next day it was driving round fine selecting gears as normal. I had to do another trip round the M25 and, again, after about an hour it did the same thing to me. It did it one more time before I'd finished the 100 miles. Again, though, the next day on a shorter journey it was fine. Anyone got any ideas what could be causing this? Cheers!

We managed the man on the moon by not cutting financial corners at every step I had a problem with my Diesel Turbo Ford Focus' gear changes ... turns out all the cables move within this small piece of crappy plastic and that had broken on one side putting gears 1, 3 & 5 out of action ... it would have cost them ... what? ... a fiver to have used a bit of machined metal over using plastic ... but they wanted to save money ... ****s. Still though ... 4,500 miles using zip ties as a fix can't be argued with too much

A total of 8 hours of work and much ballache later ... And I now have a working driver side window!! It'll probably all lock up again by tomorrow morning but what the hey ... I might even attempt the passenger side window next

Wahey got it out with some careful screwdriver work ... mechanism has jammed up again ... gonna try some heavier duty oil for the mechanism ...

Thanks ... gonna try some WD40 next cos freezing made bugger all difference

Well I managed to pick up a clip from a VW golf down the local breakers yard ... Only bugger is I can't get the old wire out from inside the clip. Gonna try freezing it and hope it shrinks a bit ... any other ideas would be appreciated

Cheers I have automatic regulators. I could swap the runners but all in I"ll be able to get a full replacement before you're able to send it. Much appreciated though :-)

VW weren't even open for parts on a saturday, alas ... And TPS aren't either ... alas. Cheers for the thoguht though .. didn't know of TPS and they're 5 mins drive from home

I'd love to know of anyone that can tell me where I can get one of those runners in Oxford though ... Especially somewhere where i can pick one up tomorrow (Sunday)

Yeah been considering that ... but I'll end up spending several days with a window that can't be fixed in place ... which concerns me ... especially given the weather

So I bought a very cheap 1.4 VW Lupo Auto a couple of weeks back. I knew the windows didn't work but thought for the price (£180 with 7 months of road tax) that I'd just give a crack fixing it myself. So i followed this AWESOME guide: http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=89966 (Thank Danoid!) Finally I got the whole mechanism out (took me 3 hours! ). Greased the living crap out of it and plugged it all in to test it. The mechanism was now working!! Alas immediately on finding this out, the runner that connects to the window clamp ... broke ... Arse. Anyone know how easy it is to just replace the runner and where i can get one quickly (I'm in Oxford)? Cos I currently have a window held up by gaffer and a load of tarp jammed into the door frame to try and handle the case where the gaffer fails ... Everywhere in Oxford can't do me a new regulator (nowhere can just do me the, frankly crappy, plastic runner) till monday so I may just have to keep my fingers crossed that the window stays there and sort it all out on monday ...