gernster

Hmmm, doesn't look like I can upload pics from my smartphone, but if anyone has any on the garage please get in touch and we can see if the are the right ones, or would buy a set of 4.

Hi, looking for a couple of standard lupo wheel trims, I'll try and upload a PIC of the two u have left asap :-) Any condition will do, cheers Andy

Cheers, no one is snapping my hand off, if there are lots for sale that probably explains it!

Hi guys. Had 6 months and 6k miles trouble free motoring in the arosa, but decided I wanted a mk5 golf so that project is now finished and the arosa is for sale in the classifieds section. Will be sorry to see her go!

it will still have its on/off controlled by the ignition mate, its just for it memory this one, but for some reason because its low voltage, the HU wont run at all, weird.

got this sorted, 434mhz hella key from a bora eventually worked. we figured the original arosa key that came with the convenience module (on my yellow breaker arosa) must be buggered - I swapped the conv module thinking that was at fault first!. The conv module clicked to acknowledge coding, but then still wouldn't unlock the doors. so ive got a 433 flip key for sale now!

to close this out, the live feed wire had a break in it down in the drivers footwell. The power for the light comes straight from fuse 10, then there are two earths. one for the manual operation and the other through the convenience module to control when the light comes on when the doors are opened/ ign on and off, doors unlocked etc:

right, another update over the last fortnight, hmmm, what have I done? well, started running it for one thing, now done 700 trouble free miles, the engines got better and better, I'm thinking the ECU might have been learning the new engine, and its much more responsive now. So, wobbly driveshaft was a knackered inner CV, cheap driveshaft off ebay fixed it: Tried to get the central locking to code with the help of MattP on Edition38, first attempt was a fail, suspected convenience module fail, so swapped that out (another freebie from the yellow peril and the same code) went back to see Matt yesterday and after a bit of buggering about got one of his spare remotes working from his Bora: Just ordered a top, key and transponder from car key help, so I'll get that coded when it turns up/ Fixed my interior light, traced the live wire to a break down by the passenger footwell: and today I've fitted my detachable towbar, £125 quid delivered from Poland: Why a towbar you ask? predominantly for my Bike rack, but tbh they do come in handy!! and a few fitting photos: had to put a couple of small cuts in the rear bumper: and fitted up with and without the towball (and a wash!!) So, still busy!!!!!

seriously pal, cut your losses and get rid, or stick a new engine in. cheaper and less hassle.

nah, battery is fine, the ignition feed shows 12v when the ign is on and 14 when engine is running. Think i'll just run a ner perm live from the battery, bit of a mystery though, I might have a nosey on my elsawin build and look at the wiring diagrams.

If its tapping and has low oil pressure its probably the little end bearings. Its terminal. Put some thick oil in it and sell it down the auctions quick! By

Sorry, can't see your video on my phone.

As title really, swapped the switched and live feeds round as my stereo kept loosing its memory, but then it wouldn't switch on at all, when I got out the multimeter, the main feed was only reading low volts, even with the engine on?

Mk2 arosa? From Memory, look up into the cowling above the clocks, should be 2 screws, all t25 torx. Take them out then yank the cowling towards you, should come off, then you will see the other 4 screws holding the clocks in mate.

looks like my ex wifes Arosa, but I've just done a tax disk check on hers and it hasn't been taxed for 18 months, so probably dead