dirk1978

Thanks for that. By pinch bolts do you mean the 2 which connect the strut with the top of the hub?

Well here's what I'm doing this weekend. Does anyone know how to set the initial ride height on these? Will it just be trial and error or is there a scientific way of getting 10-20mm lower all round?

Definitely not. Not a fan of overly low cars. It just needed some new suspension anyway and there's not a lot of point putting standard stuff on when the GTI is a bit too high by today's standards and the rear even looks a bit silly sometimes. I think the Vogtland kit I'm putting on is 20-50mm front and 30-60mm rear so I'll probably go with 30 and 30 and see how it looks.

Should be a bit nicer soon 😁

After almost a full respray. It's having the wheels refurbed Monday and then it'll be about a week before the coilover kit arrives.

Yep. Original spec had air con, leather, electric windows. I was told it was a dealer demo car so had the options.

Perfect thanks. Just found them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-Wheel-Center-Hub-Caps-Sticker-56-60-65-70-80-75-90mm-For-VW-Golf-4-Polo-Bora/264744927688?hash=item3da40701c8:m:mQfnl0HCotx2DAYJyQrHvCw Just measured the logos and it is 90mm.

I don't think it'll make the slightest bit of (noticeable) difference

What's the best way to refurb these now? Local wheel place says there's nothing they can do. Can you get replacement VW logos as stickers or something?

Seafoam I assume? Rough idling is why I got rid of my old Octavia VRS TSI. Every TSI of that age will need a decoke at 80k. I believe they added a 5th injector in about 2010 to stop it.

Some more from today. There are some scratches and blemishes that it's going into the paint shop for in a couple of weeks and the wheels are being refurbed.

Still after this

How much you want mate? edit: also, did you have the front bumper cover?

@Rich you keeping all the bits or selling anything? I'm now after some rear calipers

I heard there's 20 or 30 ravens left and not many with Aircon and leather?

There's been a grinding noise coming from the rear nearside for a few weeks so after I think someone on here suggested brakes I got some new discs and pads and fitted them today. I thought it was a good time to clean up the calipers and paint them too. Bought a nice new low profile jack and got it up. Now I've got the impact driver getting wheels off is easy. 18 years of crud Soon to be replaced with coilies if they ever arrive. I had no idea the rears had to be wound back in. With the fronts I normally use some pipe grips to push the piston back in so with these I had to borrow my brothers rewind tool. I'm pretty sure this is the cause of the grinding The pads were wedged in and I think the paint flaking off and the calipers corroding caused the pads to get stuck and grind at a certain angle of the disc/wheel. I scrubbed them for hours with brake cleaner but the paint just kept flaking off and this is the best I could get them for now. I'll have to get them stripped and acid dipped so they can be painted properly. So I just put it back together with new bits, any loose paint taken off and any corrosion scraped off so not interfering with the pads. New alternator working well And gave the engine bay a bit of a clean.

Oh, sorry just another blue one. Have you got one of the ones I want?

Already got 2 of the other side somehow.

Nah, that'd be far too easy. Always have to do things by myself. Especially so at the moment.

And now been round Jefferies tyres where they got a long rigid pipe on it with a tight 17mm socket and bounced up and down on the end of the pole. Eventually cracked it off.

properly mashed the wheel bolt trying that. I've done it plenty of times on crank bolts and it sounded a good idea for this. This time the front of the car just lifted off the ground a bit and rounded off the wheel bolt. Not sure how that comes off now.

Thank you. My breaker bar with some pipe is about 4 feet long so far and it's not shifting it. I'll have another go with the impact driver in the morning. If no good I'll have to source some scaffolding pole.

I started to do this but left it for today because I can't get a wheel nut off so left it soaking. But is this correct? I assume the handbrake needs to be left off so need to chock the front wheels? Then it looks like take the 2 13mm nuts off the pistons, and then unbolt the carrier with 8mm hex head. How does the handbrake cable disconnect or is it obvious? If I want to clean and paint the calipers and carriers how do I block up the brake pipe to stop fluid coming out? Finally, unrelated, my 500nm impact driver won't loosen a stuckw wheel bolt. I'm leaving it to soak overnight but I've only got gt85. Is anything else e.g. wd40 specialist penetrant much better?

Aha, thanks.

Never heard of them before. Are these them?