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gatesy0093

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Everything posted by gatesy0093

  1. As the title says these are BMW E30 / BBS RZ. Had them a good few years now and have bought a new car so no longer need these, ill be honest and say they are not the best condition in the world as there curb marks (Been smoothed down by myself) and have been rattle canned by myself aswell when i first bought them, also a couple of the spokes on one wheel have been damaged, which can be seen in this picture. just to the left of the air valve They do however run straight, come with tyres and official centre caps with BMW logos. I realise they're not perfect but at the end of the day they look good on the car and are cheap considering they come with complete centre (Didnt come with any when i bought them) and tyres which still have life left in them. Ideal for someone wanting to refurbish them anyway or isnt too bothered because they know theyre cheap (Like me haha) Send me a PM on here or a text on 07747605828 Located in Workington, Cumbria Preferably cash on collection but I can post if I must (Don't know how much for though) Looking for £300 Thanks for looking, Joe
  2. Cambridge Rear Lights - SOLD!! The much loved rear lights that have the grey strip instead of the orange or red strip from the Arosa's or Lupo's. Perfect condition, no cracks at all. They are used but have not been tampered with so they are still tangoed. does NOT include bulbs £80 - SOLD!! I live in West Cumbria so either cash on collection or can be posted at buyers expense. Send me a message on here or a text at 07747605828
  3. ive got an old sportex back box that i took off my blue arosa when i got another one. its a 3" single and it is rather loud, especially on the motorway. send me a message if youre interested
  4. gatesy0093

    BBS RZ HELP!

    I have the same wheels with a full set of centrecaps. the top ebay link you posted are not genuine, the clip is completely wrong, they might fit and look ok but then its the fact they arent the real thing. Cant tell about the second link because there is only one picture, you could always ask the guy for some more pictures though. the ones you want look like this Some of the clips are broken but you get the idea The "nut" twists and that causes the clips on the back to be pushed outwards which is what locks them onto the wheel. then just twist back to unlock and pull to get off. The ones i have are metal and the nut is plastic, i do think that you can buy metal nuts but if you can then they will be expensive.. Hope this helps in any way... Joe
  5. any help guys and girls with more knowledge about suspension than me... this is really starting to get annoying now every morning haha
  6. No it doesn't jump all over the spot. But in the morning when I reverse out of my spot you can hear it all clunking on the front. And whichever way i turn. When I straighten up and pulls loads to the opposite side of the way I turned. Dunno if that makes sense haha
  7. So basically a while ago my coilovers bust so I fitted some 40mm springs all round on standard shocks, however I couldnt fully tighten the nuts onto the top of the front shocks because the allen key slot was buggered and rounded, me and my dad only managed to tighten them by gripping them with a small pipe wrench and the spanner for the nut. it then went and got the tracking done but only the toe, so it still has some camber, not that it needs it haha. my only problem now is that this was a few months ago, and ever since then it still doesnt drive straight. every morning on the way to work and at night when i come back from my girlfriends house, i reverse out of the drive and you can hear the whole front suspension clunking, this then throws the tracking out and it pulls mega to whichever side i decided to turn when pulling out :/ originally i thought this would go when the springs settled but it hasnt, the only thing i can think of is that the suspension isnt tight enough which is causing the lack of pressure on the springs causing them to slip. Obviously i would tighten them up but i cant, is there anyway of fixing them top the of the shocks? or am i going to have to buy new shocks and topmount kit to sort the problem out? Cheers, Joe
  8. i got a full set brand new set of brembo discs and pads off ebay for £40 if you look around
  9. Funnily enough I don't need it anymore. It works now :/ it must just be a long journey thing haha
  10. Any help guys would be much loved Also some other weird thing happened today, I was driving back from Blackpool to West Cumbria and after about an hour of driving I put my rear wiper on because I couldn't see and the wiper just decided to go continuously instead of intermittent for about 6-7 wipes and then it just randomly stopped in the middle of the window :/ never done that before with normal driving so I was quite annoyed. It also wouldn't carry on after it stopped, you had to unclick the wiper to turn it off wait about minutes and try again :/ Can anyone shed any light? Cheers, Joe
  11. Thanks for the offer but I don't really need them. With the coilovers on the front the car looked abit hunched over haha, so this ones staying on the 40mms, just need a bit of advice to do with what I was on about beore. Joe
  12. I may need a new pair of pants... I've always had a soft spot for 6N2s
  13. Right so its been a while since the last post so here is the recent update haha. Sorted this battery problem out, bought a new one! Even though we got it tested and they couldn't find a problem with either of the batteries it was still having this weird problem, anyway my dad got a new one for me and its been perfect ever since. Changed my thermostat and temp sensor, all the gauges now work fine, don't think I would have need the thermostat but I bought one anyway so I fitted it. It made a little difference to my MPG but not a great deal, every little helps though I guess! The only problem with it now is every since the front coilover disaster where one blew so me and dad had to change them to the original shocks and put it on the 40mm springs to match the rear. changing them round wasn't a problem, even managed without a spring compressor haha, although one of the allen key slots on one of the shocks was buggered so we had a hard time tightening it up but we got them as tight as we possibly could, anyway.. the problem was that the tracking was a mile out so we struggled driving it to the nearest garage, got the tracking done for £20 and the guy said it was the worst tracking he'd ever done haha (I only got the toe sorted (I think) so it still has a bit of camber on the front), so with that sorted. the new problem is ever since then, every time in the morning when i set off for work (or any sharp corner where you have nearly full / full lock on, you can hear both front springs click and it seems like they are moving because they then throw the tracking out again and causes the steering wheel to pull to which ever side it feels like quite a lot until about 5 minutes down the road it sorts itself out... I've put up with it for about a month but ive got fed up with it and could really do with some advice.. Cheers guys joe
  14. ive just recently changed my temp sensor and noticed the blanked off valve, me and my dad just assumed it would be for higher spec models with A/C or something along those lines
  15. So I change my thermostat and temp sensors for new ones... Problem solved Works perfectly, temperature gauge rises as it should never going above 90, even when pushed. ALSO, the heaters work!! I actually enjoyed warmth driving to my fiancées today haha
  16. I have this problem too :/ My temperature gauge doesn't rise at all, whether its idling or moving. I have just bought a thermostat, o-ring and housing from TMS and should be changing that soon. Also gonna buy a coolant temperature sensor and get that changed aswell. I will let you all know if it makes any difference when I do mine. Also, I don't know if this is related or not, but when I have the heaters, it doesn't matter if I've been driving 3 minutes or 30, it doesn't heat up, no where near what it should be, colder than luke warm, and it doesn't matter what setting its on... Any helps guys.. Joe
  17. Cheers Vinny My dads friend reckoned it was one of the cells in the battery had went as it had voltage but no current was going through it. Starting up is still taking a little longer than it originally did but only time will tell, at least I can get to and from work for now haha. Joe
  18. Right, so my dad got his friend to come round with a battery tester and he said he's about 85% sure the battery was buggered. I swapped the battery out of my old Arosa into the new one and tried to start it and it worked thankfully. Dads friend said give it a week and if it ends up not working again then it's a problem haha. I've driven it for about two days now to and from work and once to my girlfriends and its started everytime. So far so good, I hope it stays that way haha Joe
  19. So the Arosa passed its MOT with flying colours!! chuffed after what happened with my old one haha. It only needed a front pair of indicator bulbs... Gonna be changing the oil filter and oil in the next couple of weeks to some Castrol Magnatec 5w30. Need to buy a pollen filter aswell and a K&N Recharge kit of eBay too. There is a small leak in the exhaust from the join where the Powerflow exhaust starts. This starting problem still exists though :/ I can't decide whether or not it is the battery or the starter motor... It completely died at the weekend. You turn the key and it only turns over once, dies, then all the clocks and radio resets and you can hear a buzzing noise, but if you put a battery charger on it then it starts straight away, no problems at all for about day and half, then its back to square one... Any ideas, I'm gonna be buying a battery tomorrow, so I will fit that when I get it and see if it sorts the problem, if not then I'm guessing the starter motor is buggered? Either that or something is draining all the power, and no, I am not leaving my lights on, I haven't even used the radio incase it uses too much electricity haha. Joe
  20. So after lots of neglect washing it, i reached a point where it didn't get any dirtier, so I washed it, too cold for pics though anyway big MOT is tomorrow, hoping it won't cost a bomb this time although I've learnt from my mistakes last time and am gonna do the work myself with my dad and get it reMOTd, only if it's gonna cost a bomb though, got some oil and a oil filter to pick up at same time aswell so I can service it myself, need to buy a KandN revive kit ( or whatever they are called aswell) let you you know the crack soon joe
  21. will do mate, it's a struggle though as I haven't had the chance to check it yet as I don't have a garage and its dark when I get back from home :/
  22. i changed them a couple of months ago so i cant imagine it being them
  23. So over the past sort of two-three weeks, the Arosa has been struggling to start, whether it's cold or not. It started off with it taking a little longer to turn over than usual, this then turned into taking a lot longer. What was happening was, it would turn over once, struggle for a second, then turn over properly and start. Just recently over the past five days it would turn over once, stall (the clock and trip counter would reset and you would hear a buzzing) and then it would start as normal OR you either had to re-turn the key again and it would start. Obviously this is p*ss annoying and something is wrong. I don't think it is the battery, because if it was the battery with no charge then it would not come back alive after dying. so im thinking starter motor? Can anyone shed any light on this problem? A used starter motor can be had for around £30 off ebay, dont know how much from a scrappy though. thanks for the help guys / girls Joe
  24. Black lupo, cambrige lights, lowered a fair bit an had purple wheels. parked up outside Aldi in Cockermouth around 4pm on 11/10/13
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