chansingh833

I had the same problem, turns out something was stuck between the pads and disc, get your pads off and look for dirty streaks on the disc and if so you'll need to change your discs and subsequently your pads! Don't try and hope changing the pads will solve your problem,been there done that loool! But yeah there pretty much nothing you can do without a few spanners......

Also, depending on some engines there is a small air pipe from the filter box which goes pretty much into the top of the engine, check its there

One, you've got a broken hose or something is up with the air intake. Two, check your filter. Three, your throttle body needs a clean. Four, you might have issues with the petrol supply, check all fuel lines are in good nick and that your fuel filter doesn't need replacing. Five, one of your lambda sensors on the exhaust line needs replacing............

Brilliant one mate, looks like a sweet choice you made there! here's a few shots of mine with the 30 mm drop and a set of 16 inch borbets 7.5 j with 195 tyres mine are the standard shocks and they seem to be fine, the ride is a little stiffer but still relatively comfortable

Pedal box- check if the pedal is quite a bit lower than the brake pedal, and if the gears go in smoothly when driving, especially the reverse gear Interior light- whether it comes on when you open the driver side door heater matrix- check you get hot air when the car has been running, check for a damp smell, and often i've seen dodgy work done where people can't foot the bill to get the matrix changed and so have the water pipes looped under the bonnet, thus isolating the matrix so everything seems ok! warning lights- check they all appear on ignition and that they all turn off once the engine is running Just a hint....unless you're buying off someone who is into detailing and maintaining an ultra clean car, when buying don't be fooled by how clean a car is if you're with me? especially under the bonnet...from my experience a super clean engine bay is usually just a sign that the seller is trying to hide something....oo and look out for parts which look new....for example, when i purchased my previous loop, the right sided drive shaft, spring and damper and arm all looked new, possibly meaning the car had a right sided front end collision.....maybe its me being too sceptical but hey it pays off when you have an almost faultless car nan kangs are tyres- 155 being the width, and 50 being the size of the tyre wall.....basically they're small in width, and when put on wideeeee wheels can be temporarily overinflated to allow 'stretch' which is when the tyres look like they are almost bulging or being stretched to fit the wheels......coilovers are just a type of spring/damper set up! if you don't want to go toooo hardcore you can always settle for some lowerings springs with the original dampers (about a 30mm drop) I have a set of H&R springs on mine, and it looks quite nice!

Make sure you ground the amplifier properly to the chassis, there's usually grounding bolts in various locations for stock factory fittings, take the nut off and add your ring terminal to it. Also make sure the fuse you are using is rated appropriately to the amp! I've wired two runs of 0 gauge in my loop in the past and no problems!