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Cooper_GTI

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Posts posted by Cooper_GTI

  1. I sold it to a local guy, but he's trying to flip it at profit i think. Doesn't bother me - i'm happy with the price I got.

    Mr Tacho, yes I can do a 1.8T Lupo conversion, but it'll cost you £4000 in labour based on my charge-out rate of £35/hr.  It's barely even worth my time for that money to be honest, as it's such a huge job. Around 120-150 hours to properly build one. If you want a quick car, buy a Mk5 Edition 30 DSG and map it. 

  2. On 10/10/2018 at 9:55 AM, weslangdon said:

    You should be able to buy a w460 [part time 4x4]for under £5k, [3 engines were available and 3 body styles, the only one which should breach the £5k figure are the short wheelbase soft tops] they are almost certain to need major metal work repairs to the rear corners and door, but all the panels are available; what's more difficult to fix is a tatty interior. There are a variety of experts who claim to be able to convert these to either 5 cylinder or 6 cylinder turbo diesel spec, not all though are genuine experts. A decade ago the fashion was to fit  large V8 to your old w460 and on occasion to the newer w463 [permanent 4x4]. High powered engines make no sense though as the trucks can't corner and are always thirsty however economical you might think they are.

    You are 100% correct in what you're saying - there are a lot of charlatans out there! 'Diesel Pump UK' being the biggest one. His conversions are extremely shoddy, he offers no kind of warranty and doesn't care when his engines blow up due to his own poorly built fuel pumps. That said, his marketing is top notch and he has a lot of work on... Makes me feel sorry for his customers. 

    My conversions are (if i do say so myself) among the tidiest out there, but certainly not the cheapest. I completely remake the loom, use correct merc mounts, all fully welded boost pipes, deep large capacity sump, new props, 4.4 or 4.1 diffs, 6 speed C270 gearbox and fuel pumps built in Finland by the best in the game, all coupled with loads of cooling so you can happily tow 3.5T at speed without overheating issues and with 2 bar of boost from 2000rpm to 6500rpm they fly!

    0 to 60 time is sub 9 seconds and 35mpg is possible on a run. They make such useable, retro trucks when built correctly. 

    • Like 1
  3. 19 hours ago, weslangdon said:

    Nice conversion, no airbag, and real springs and brakes? This might sound a little churlish but do converted cars ever achieve the cost of putting them together?

    Absolutely they can Wes! 

    By day I convert classic Mercedes G-Wagens... Removing the old useless, thirsty powerplant in favour of a newer mechanically pumped 5cyl, 20v turbo diesel with 320bhp and a huge spread of torque. A G-wagen that would cost circa £5k to buy is then worth over £20k with the torquey diesel lump. 

    Here's my latest conversion that i've just sold...

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  4. 18 hours ago, Sausage said:

    No not very often.

    Nice car op, but dont think anyone will give you 6.5k for it.

    By "forged" you mean the standard 1.8t internals I assume? 

    Which factory 1.8T engine do you know with forged internals proofed to 500bhp?  It states in the ebay advert that it has Mahle pistons, DM forged rifle drilled rods and the BAM steel crank.

    Ref the price - a decent base GTI is at least £3-4k. Anyone who's in the real tuning game knows that to have an engine built to that spec costs upwards of £3000. Let alone brakes, suspension, wheels and hundreds of hours in labour, testing and mapping.

    What else would you buy for £6500 that would be as fast, reliable and capable as this?

  5. My Little Lupo is now up for sale - owned her for over 8 years!

    I don't frequent the forum very often any more as Facebook seems to have taken over, but it would seem rude not to offer it to you lot. This is arguably one of the best 1.8T GTI's on the road today... The engine mounts are designed to keep driveshaft angles correct and high enough so that the sump doesn't hit the floor like a lot of others and it's built with all factory parts.  She drives just like a stock GTI - very tractable and still manages 230 miles to a tank.

    All the info you need is on my Ebay advert - Lupo GTI 1.8T Ebay Link

    Open to offers around £6500.

    Call Matt on 07944 640 484

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  6. I think you'll find that Apex are a lot better than the sh*t Chinese brands (Jom, FK, TA etc).

    Almost in the same league as koni or spax, but they're a far cry from Bilstein, AVO, H&R etc which are all German/UK manufactured and tested/developed on the car with stringent testing and quality control with great parts and warranty backup.

    It all depends how much you can get them for and what you want to use them for I guess.

  7. You can use a resistor across the 2 airbag terminals to make the light go out.

    but yes, all original Lupo leathers came with airbags.

    With regards to loom, you can always wire them up to an on/off switch to save the hassle of installing the whole loom. But if you do want to do it 'properly', check Kufatec for the loom. I don't think it's cheap though.

  8. Give him a call on +44 7973 540145 or +44 1922 615671

    Make sure you ask for John - he's very friendly and I'm sure he'll send a manifold straight out to you. Ask him to weld a lambda boss in before he sends it, as they were designed for race cars which don't run lambda sensors in the manifold.

  9. Saw this on Tuesday evening on the Longford road.

    Looked pretty standard - I was in a blue Ibiza, following my Lupo GTI which was on a trailer, being towed with an old Disco.

    I saw you do a double take when you noticed the GTI! :lol:

  10. I'm selling my daily driver Lupo as my high powered GTI is very nearly on the road.

    It's had a 1.8T AGU grafted into it, which has been done to a very high standard and then has been tuned with a K03s turbo, 3" exhaust, FMIC, Large TIP, uprated recirc valve, silicone hosing, air filter, remap etc...

    It's currently on ebay and there's loads of pics and a full description on the listing.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/111795295641?

    I'm hoping for offers around £3000. :thumbsup:

    Drop me a call/text on 07773274673

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  11. I'd also say AP's are about the best budget coilovers you can buy. I've had them on my GTI for 6 years and done over 80k miles with them and they are still serviceable.

    Just be warned though, that the lower you go the worse the ride is and the more likely you are to wear the shocks out. (as well as CV joints, wishbones etc..)

    You also look like you're on the brink of needed a chassis notch to prevent the driveshaft banging into the chassis over bumps and stuff, so bear this in mind if you do want to drop it more.

    Have you considered a conventional spring/shock arrangement rather than adjustable coilovers? It will be much more comfortable, although you may not get the extra drop you're after, but you could certainly achieve the same height as you currently have.

    • Like 1
  12. Ahh, yes, but you're talking about a guy who's pipe was actually damaged. My point is, fit an aftermarket big bore exhaust to something like an Evo 8 and I just don't see you getting huge benefits. These cars are highly tuned from the manufacturer, why would they skimp out on something like an exhaust?

    It's not a matter of skimping out, it's a matter of keeping noise to a minimum, making the driving experience appeal to the masses and ultimately adhering to very stringent emissions outputs.

    If you take a something like an Evo FQ360, remove the cat, fit a 3" downpipe straight through into a large bore backbox you will undoubtedly gain a decent amount of bhp and torque. It's safe to say that you would see an extra 10bhp peak and if you coupled this with a remap you would see more of a benefit.

    Although this extra bhp may come at the expense of the power band being shifted higher up in the rev range, which a lot of people wouldn't necessarily like (just like most people don't like loud cars which fail MOT's due to decats).

    Skezza, have you had experience in engine tuning/optimising? Your comments have me believing otherwise.

    It is well documented that manufacturers don't go for the ultimate power when manufacturing engines. Badger5 for example spent months developing a turbo inlet pipe for K04'd 1.8t's and gained a huge amount of bhp and torque over the OEM item. Bill also sells this TIP with a huge cone filter as this helps to produce more power over the standard airbox.

    It's all about reducing the bottleneck at the end of the day.

  13. In the scenario I explained, the original airbox made higher torque earlier in the rev range, but then tailed off a lot quicker. This is how the general public as a whole like cars to perform - "ooh, it's got a lot of poke" And that's not referring to 13x10 banded steelies

    I'm going to say this is due to the inlet tract being longer and there is a large volume of air ready to supply the engine. But as the revs rise, the airbox becomes a larger restriction and hence cannot keep up with the demand.

    Yes Skezza, it was reproducible as the car did 5 or 6 4th gear runs (as we all know, you have greatly reduced cooling on a dyno, so if inlet temps were an issue they would certainly stand out here) and the new filter required alterations to the map in order to gain more power. The filter in the 1.8t airbox had done no more than about 50 miles, albeit an aftermarket affair from GSF.

    I didn't try it without the filter, but I'm 90% sure that it would have gained more power. The ideal situation, broadly speaking(!!) for engine breathing is to make the inlet/outlet paths as unrestrictive as possible, hence why we fit larger exhaust, throttle bodies, flowed heads, large valves etc...

    I'm by no means an expert, but I've read a lot of books and had a lot of experience with building budget engines and getting max bhp using simple engineering methods (camshaft timing, manifold/exhaust tuning, inlet runner lengths etc) which are often overlooked by people with bulging wallets and egos.

    Another thing that armchair tuners like to claim is that car engines need backpressure. From what I've found this is a load of tosh. On a 4-stroke engine there is plenty of overlap between the exhaust/inlet valves and anyway, it's not like you're going to be scavenging unburnt air/fuel from half way down the exhaust. Any scavenging you are getting has happened in the manifold.

    2-strokes however are a different story.

  14. Look, I'm going to put FlipFlops out of his misery here, Cooper, the filter on a TDI is located exactly where he wants to relocate the filter, that's why me and DBlock were laughing about his plans to do so. The filter on both an SDI and TDI are pretty much located in the same place which is just above the lip on the front splitter by the wheel liner, almost identical to the photo he posted. I forget which side for some reason.

    At the end of the day, it's down there for a reason, it's a CIA, straight from the factory (hey, those guys who actually engineered the car do know something about vehicles after all). I can assure you that any plans to relocate the filter will result in higher temps or bitter disappointment when it renders absolutely no noticable benefits.

    Don't uprate the intercooler either. Go for an intercooler water spray system.

    And for gods sake don't fit a big cone filter either. This isn't a Vauxhall Corsa. If you fit a cone filter you WILL lose performance, you will lose economy and you will almost certainly experience much higher temperatures, because unless you're willing to put the time and effort in to plum in a proper cold air intake, then the OEM system will be FAR superior to yours.

    If you're desperate to install an aftermarket air filter, just so you can say you've installed an aftermarket air filter, you may as well get one that replaces your OEM filter so you can experience the benefits of your OEM air intake system.

    I assumed he was mentioning a filter as he was after the extra noise (hence why he wants a straight through exhaust), but I agree, if you're happy with the standard filter then there won't be any gain from changing it in this application.

    The reason I mentioned a large cone filter is based on my own experiences (which is a damn site more than a lot of people on this site have!)

    When my 1.8t Lupo was on the Dyno using the standard AGU airbox coupled with the Lupo cold air feed, the mapper told me try fitting a jetex cone filter which he had in the top of his tool box. Upon doing so, the peak power increased instantly from 208bhp to 214bhp, with a marginally smoother torque curve and it held its power a lot higher in the revs range, proving that flow is in fact more important than 'the dreaded heat soak'. On a naturally aspirated engine I agree this may not be the case, but we're talking turbos here, where more boost and higher temps is better than less boost and lower temps.

    You're definitely better off with a larger intercooler, mounted at the front of the car. Spraying the intercooler whenever you 'think' it's getting warm isn't feasible and is not a lossless system. Fit the intercooler and forget about it, knowing it's doing its job from the minute you turn the engine on to the minute you turn it off. Then, and only then, if you're still seeing high intake temps with an uprated intercooler it's time to look at other options.(mounting, spray, fans etc)

    Experiment and see what works for you - dare to break the trend!

    • Like 1
  15. I'm going to see if i can buy a CAI for it, if not i'm going to make one up that takes the filter outside of the engine bay.

    Don't get too hung up on the whole 'cold air feed'. On a turbo car, you see huge intake temps regardless of whether or not your filter is fed cold air. It is the job of the intercooler to cool the charged air before it enters the inlet manifold. Money would be a LOT better spent on an uprated intercooler than it would on a filter. Just get a nice big cone filter with plenty of surface area. If you are able to isolate it from heat-soak then great - if not, don't worry too much.

    And another thing... Don't get it mapped til you've done all the mods you wish to carry out.

  16. You don't necessarily need a cat on a diesel as they don't have 'emissions' tests as such - they just have a smoke test. Just make sure you retain your lambda sensor.

    If anything, you will get more performance gain on a TDI than on any other model of Lupo. A decat and freer flowing exhaust will allow the turbo to spool up quicker and you will definitely get a noticeable performance gain.

    ...even more so if it's mapped!

    It will sound quite good and very 'boosty'.

    • Like 1
  17. Does anyone know if any Lupo's came with a radiator that is the full width of the slam panel?

    It's for my 1.8t, as the standard 1.0L one just isn't up to the job, especially now that it's been mapped!

    Mine is about 400-450mm wide, but there is loads of redundant space on the drivers side to fit one that is up to 700mm long.

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