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Cooper_GTI

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Everything posted by Cooper_GTI

  1. The biggest factor is the one you missed out... The year it was first registered! Just bear in mind that modifications don't necessarily add value!
  2. I had exactly this on my GTI... I thought it was the box that had gone, but just turned out to be a wheel bearing. Especially as it only happens when you turn left, as you are loading the right bearing. With modern roller bearings you often don't feel any play in the bearings, even when they are shot, which makes them hard to diagnose. They're only about £20. Also, check your tyres. Poor, perished, out of shape tyres cause wheel bearing noises.
  3. The 5 speed fitted to the Lupo GTI is completely different to the Polo GTI 5 speed. All boxes in the Lupo GTI are strong, all boxes in the Polo are crap.
  4. If it's hit hard enough to completely knacker and buckle the wheel, i'd say you've probably bent the wishbone, probably knackered the wheel bearing and possibly bent the trackrod arm and maybe even the strut. Change the whole side for peace of mind. Parts off the scrap Arosa will be fine. You can literally unbolt the 2 rear bolts from the wishbone, undo the track rod arm and the ARB link, undo 30mm hub nut, undo the 3x10mm's on top of the strut and the whole side will just fall off. You should be able to strip it all in under half an hour. ...provided you have the tools that is!
  5. GTI boxes are pretty indestructable i've found and cope very well with the torque of a standard or lightly modded engine. Remeber, the GTI box is different to all other VW boxes! ...in a good way! If you get really stuck, i've got a 5 speed box you can have for £80
  6. Cooper_GTI

    remap

    In the 1.8t land the stages are failry clearly defined, but the term stage doesn't refer to the map file, it refers to the state of tune as a whole. Stage 1 - Remap the standard car Stage 2 - FMIC, Downpipe, Decat, Turbo Inlet pipe, Filter Stage 3 - Big turbo But i agree, in the land of N/A there are so many different routes to take that there cannot be any stages as such, more a chosen path of righteousness. I suppose stage 1 could be a map on a standard car (which on a 1.0L will probably see 0-1bhp and so shouldn't be classed as a 'stage') Stage 2 would be full exhaust (inc manifold and decat), induction and cams (maybe 5bhp at the most) Stage 3 could be anything, but probably throttle bodies or carbs (10-15bhp) Then at stage 4 the world is your oyester! Turbo, supercharger etc But as said, you can't just stick a stage 2 map on a standard car, as it would run like a dog. I bet there is not one tuning company in the world who holds a stage 2 map for a crappy 1.0 8v engine.
  7. You definitely can't fit 'non-gti' ball joints to a gti. They make the wheels toe in by a ridiculous amount, and even with the track rod adjusted fully, you can't pull them back in-line. A complete shaft could be a means to an end. Logically, there is nothing that can break a CV joint like that, other than something trying to pull it apart, which, as you say, could be due to either an incorrect inner CV, shaft or outer CV. Does it all go together easily when you fit it? I guess you wouldn't really know whether the CV joint is pulling itself off the shaft when you do the hub nut up, as the gaitor would hide any movement. Maybe try fitting it all, but with no grease and no boot, just so you can visibly see what happens...
  8. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-Mitsubishi-Lancer-2-0-EVO-VIII-FQ-300-/321035007527?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item4abf2d7627 Say no more.
  9. Could be any number of things, but unless you're actually experiencing running issues, i wouldn't worry about it. If the temperature gauge sits at half way then you don't really have any reason to fret. Possible causes; Cool running thermostat No thermostat at all VCDS isn't accurate Cold weather is having an effect on the normal operating temp VCDS may take the temp reading from somewhere other than the normal temp sensor? Just a guess... Fan running all the time? Blowers are cooling the engine due to blowing air through the heater matrix.
  10. Cooper_GTI

    Bumpstops

    Save your money and spend it on getting a full Geo setup, or corner weighted. You only need bumpstops if your car isn't setup properly.
  11. I'd be surpised if running low would cause you to kill a CV in a matter of weeks... However, if the shaft is hitting the chassis rail, that could cause it break the bearings up. Although, i assume that if you're as low as you're making out, you will already have a chassis notch? There really is no reason to smash inner CV's to be honest. They don't do half as much work as the outers do. All i can assume is you're not fitting it correctly or there isn't enough grease in the boot. A bent shaft might cause that problem, but it's not something i've ever come accross before. I've smashed 10's of outer CV's, but that's normally by doing burnouts on full lock, or not changing split gaitors.
  12. A bump stop is a bump stop at the end of the day. I'm not even sure why they bother selling uprated ones, cus if you're smashing the bump stops, you're car clearly isn't set up correctly!
  13. Take it you're a window fitter/glazier then??
  14. I'd say adjust the linkages. It seems strange that all the forward gears (reverse, 1st 3rd 5th) are stiff, yet 2nd and 4th are fine? You'll need to lengthen the rod that operates the linkage in the forward back motion. Get a mate to go in the car and repeatedly slot the gearstick from neutral to 3rd, while watching the top of the gearbox. It should all become clear. If that doesn't solve it, id suggest looking at clutch adjustment (if it's cable), then gear oil, then the actual clutch, then a new gearbox. In that order!
  15. Strip off old paint from wheel centres, especially around the bolt holes Cover the bolts in vaseline or a thick oil Fit the bolts into the wheel and just nip them up Spray the centres as normal Remove bolts Clean off vaseline and any bits of paint that may have still got to the bolts, maybe even use a parts washer if needed Refit and torque up bolts The bolts should now have a clean, round, paint free platform to sit on, hence the paint won't get chewed up when you torque them up.
  16. Mmmm... Pear drops. Yeah, solvent cleaner is the boy when it comes to breaking down dirt, grime and sticky stuff.
  17. ...Said the man in the orthopeadic shoe.
  18. Common problems/haggling points on a GTI include; Low hanging exhaust Starter motor running on Windows not operating correctly (broken switches and a runner clip broken) Rust on roof gutters Cigarette lighter not working (not sure if it's common, but mine's knackered) Driving jerky when cold (normal, but you could maybe get a few $$$ off the asking price) Door hinges clicking/cracking when you open/close the door I've had mine 2 years and i've experienced ALL of the problems above. Even with those niggly problems, i absolutely love my GTI. It's the best car i've ever owned and i won't ever sell it. And just so you know, i've had over 20 modified and so-called 'quick' cars, but this surpasses them all. It's also a pleasure to work on!
  19. Take the centre cap out of your wheel, get a 30mm socket, put it on a breaker bar, and do it up as tight as you can get it! This should take out any play and be enough to get it through the MOT, but it will probably need changing at some point, unless the hub nut is just really loose, in which case, free fix. Wheel bearings nowadays have to be absolutely Sh*%£ed to have excessive play in them ,as they have 2 bearing races, side-by-side. The howling noise they make will be more than enough to stop you driving it, and even when they're screaming they often don't have any play in them.
  20. I'll provide you with some stiffness if that's the route you wanna take? There's no need for uprated exhaust mounts, especially as your new system will be half the weight of the standard one.
  21. I think they're just generic rubber hangers. Nip down your local kwik-fit or a custom exhaust place. They're ten-a-penny. No need for powerflex ones at all really.
  22. I don't think a 1.9 PD engine is worthy of a GTI badge in any car to be honest. A GT TDI maybe, but the top spec GTI needs a petrol engine to be a true enthusiasts car.
  23. if i recall you need 300F to match power of 1Ah battery ... A quick google shows a 50f cap cost £54 so that's £324 on power caps to match the output of an 1ah 12v battery. Your standard battery is about 50ah...
  24. It's nothing like a battery im afraid. The idea behind them, is that they store energy, so that when there is a BIG low note and the amp demands full power, the power cap has a bit of energy in reserve. This stops the lights from dimming, which is why most people use them. In reality, all it does is suck so much power from the battery, that the lights are constantly dim, and the amount of power it holds is miniscule , so you end up not only charging the capacitors in the amp (that DO work), but also this one as it will never catch up. Even if it does, it'll last about half a second and spend at least twice that long recharging. They don't help with voltage drop, in actual fact, they make it loads worse. I'm sorry, but there is no way it can provide more 'punch'. Your amp is running at lower voltage WITH a cap than without one. They're purely for show and being as yours is hidden, the best thing you could do is to take it out and also, make sure you use 0AWG power/earth cable. I'd be worth upgrading the wiring in the engine bay. Google 'the big 3', which entails upgrading the cabling from 'battery to earth', 'alternator to battery' and 'engine to chassis.' Judging by thnat amp (looks like a 4 channel) it's about 500w rms at most, which relates to a max draw of arounf 35 amps. You and me both know that your alternator and batery can easily cope with that.
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