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mad-modz

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Everything posted by mad-modz

  1. Haha cheers all for the cool comments... trying to work out what to do next haha, thinking i might carry on the contrast with a plush interior as ive got all the electrostatic flocking equipment... or to rat the interior lol :/ hmm
  2. Well ive got my arosa,,,,, which on a SMALL technicality is not a lupo haha although is a boring TDI.... http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/99973-my-custom-painted-ratrod-style-arosa-tdi/ The second more interesting ride..... Is the one im currently building... A 1947Hotrod....Holset HX40 Powered OM606 3.0 6 Cyl Mercedes Turbo Diesel (just over 400bhp with over 740Nm torque - on a custom £1000 Fuel Pump) Have air ride going on it, suicide front axle, twin rear axle and no end of other hot rod bits Although, as you can see.... its in its early stages!!
  3. I then decided to buy some contrasting blingy wheels... Mainly due to seeing chrome works well against rust in the oldschool hotrod scene... With the wheels and tyres sorted, i put them on the car, and well happy with the outcome! Im now working on a few other bits while the car starts to fully rust... Ive made and rusted a custom MDF sub box (1000w RMS sub), again a nice blingy one to contrast the rust lol Im now trying to source a roof rack for it (nice retro looking one), and then work out what my next step should be Any Ideas?
  4. Once it was ready, it was time to fire up the booth and attempt spraying for the first time haha! I could have painted it with a roller or brush, but as i had the opportunity i thought i would give it a proper go in a professional booth. Well, painting..... its not as easy as it looks haha! I had no problems laying my paint down, in fact no problems at all... but damn it was hard as i kept rubbing the car with the airline, and generally leaning over wet parts haha! Other than the paint operator (me), the paint went on perfect, and 2.5 litres of it later i was left with this,,, I then drove home, and began messing with it again haha! I couldn't resist sanding it back to expose the metal particles in the paint.. so gave it a rub over with some 100 grit wet & dry... It gave me a pretty cool flat colour, however before i could get rusting i needed to sort some hot-rod style door adverts... As vinyl wouldn't stick to the rusting paintwork longterm, i needed to actually paint on the advert. So before exposing the car to any water, i needed to get my doors painted... I cheated a little, and rather than getting someone to pinstripe the door, i had some custom stencils made up.... (thanks aircooled apparel)... These were applied onto the car, and paint was then dusted over. I wanted it to look weathered, so chose to paint the stencils using a bright and off white... Then came the fun job of removing all the bloody vinyl off the car..... absolute nightmare of a job! With my stencils done, it was time to expose the car to the good old british weather... After a few days, the rust started to appear....
  5. Hi Guys, Well where do i start?!... hmm maybe a few pics lol!! My car started out as a standard arosa TDi, and then went on to be a ultra clean and slightly modified version... However after a few beers, things began to change, as i had the idea of rusting my car... I looked around for a few weeks, and could only find one chap who could supply me with an overpriced epoxy based kit, which upon testing reacted and cracked as it dried really brittle. I still wanted the look, after seeing some great ratted cars at the shelsley walsh retrorides gathering ..... After a few more drinks, lots of experiments with different paints and chemicals, i made a flexible paint which could be applied directly to any surface, and would give me a real rust finish, without the worry about MOT or rot! So the next stage was to get my car painted This was done at retropower HQ on a saturday, and my first spray attempt (dont worry, im not the spray guy, normally i wouldn't be allowed to go near anything bar a paint can haha). Prep was done at home the night before, literally a quick scuff / key with a load of sandpaper & DA The car was then driven over to work to proceed with the paintjob I did have no rear bumper, as i seized the opportunity to fit a custom smoothed lupo rear bumper to my arosa With it in the booth, it was time to clean the car down and mask everything up... This was done under the watchful eye of Gaz (the sprayer)... between somewhere of starting the masking and finishing, a biro p*nis ended up on the rear window haha
  6. If you were in the midlands i could have given you a decent MOT tester. Just go around a few garages, explain you have a decat and is there anything they can do, if they say no, move to the next... Sounds stupid, but its how i found my MOT bloke all them years ago....
  7. your missing out ...... 5. Find a friendly MOT tester.
  8. You have contradicted yourself in that post... 'you offer mechanical services' yet need ideas for your own 'rally' car.... not hating, just seems a bad advertisement. Maybe put a few pics up of a few recent conversions, work you have done etc. It might stir up a bit of interest with the members who rate all mechanical work by the amount of spanners the Haynes manual states... Best of luck
  9. Haha cheers... now in the classifieds to make way for a mk3 caddy
  10. Well between work and setting up my online shop Ive carried on with the beast of a sub box... I masked off the carbon (to prevent spray glue going everywhere), and got to work trimming in 1 piece of acoustic carpet. With the box trimmed it was covered in a layer of poorboys EXP to give me a seal of polish to the front.. This was left overnight to 'eat in'... This morning it was time to wire up the sub to run 4 ohms, as the amp i have delivers 2500w RMS at 4ohm ... I done this via putting the voice coils in series, thus adding 2ohm + 2ohm, giving me 4 With the wiring sorted, i sealed the ring of the woofer with clear silicone prior to bolting in place... This is due to the front of the box being smooth (rather than the usual carpet/fabric/wood finish). With it being smooth, air can creep out around the sub giving a naff bassline and an added 'farting' noise... The amps been screwed to the rear of the box, as i need this all easily removable from the car at the min.... Anyhow one custom sub box finished.. Ta dahhhh.... Just awaiting my second 0awg wiring kit to turn up.... I didn't realize my amp requires TWO 25mm2 (0awg) positives, and TWO 25mm2 (0awg) negatives... Thus meaning two 150a fuses, loads of ring connectors and more cable... (ended up being cheaper to buy an extra £30 wiring kit than the bits separately)... I cant wait to get this beast in the car.... Just annoying me having to wait now lol!! Already got the second battery and the other bits and bobs installed....
  11. Thanks for the great comments...makes all the swear words worth it haha!!... Well ive cracked on a bit more with the sub box..... The front had ist 1st coat of resin, which was left for 16 hours to cure, before having a 240 grit wet sand to remove high spots prior to the second resin coat.... Second resin coat.... Left to cure for another 18 hours and it looked like this.... Sanded smooth from 100grit to 600, and then squared the port back up with paint (as the sanding had taken the coloring off in places). The sub box was then left in an upright position for 3 days to let the styrene cure and leave the resin (should prevent clouding down the line)... While i had nothing better to do, i thought id trim the rest of the items which were made for the car... I initially chose suede, but didn't like the look of it against my rugged looking lupo, so i ended up redoing in acoustic material... Finally today ive clear coated the front of my box... This is going to be left to cure again for 24-48 hours before i start to carpet & polish..... I'm quite happy with the result, just hope it sounds as good as it looks lol...
  12. No roof bar haha, cream roof and yellow headlights... Might not have been me, but i was deffo there that day,, and don't know any other flat painted lupos I didnt see you though, but was too busy trying to limp the car home thanks to a near blow out that caused the tyre to misshape
  13. Well ive picked up a small sub for the lupo...... (popped a 50p coin onto the magnet to give a size to gauge)... The sub will take the 2500/2600w RMS my amp will give it fairly easily (as long as its a clean signal, which it will be)... The box that came with the sub was cr*p to say the least, so it was time to calculate, design & build a new one.... Ive gone for a 28Hz, L - flare ported box, with a double 18mm baffle, 45's and a resin coated internal...Its bang on 3 cubic foot with all the displacement taken into account. Its been glued, screwed (a lot) and the front is currently being skimmed/wrapped with carbon modz carbon (due to having loads laying about).... The box has been designed to maximize airflow out of the port, and tuned to hit lows in my music taste, rather than just a SPL frequency... Ive still got layers of resin to lay and wait to cure which should take a good few days to do... But when thats sorted, i will be carpeting the other sides and clear coating the front panel to bring the carbon out... Some pics...
  14. Yea possibly its an old(ish) thread... Someones collected them today.. Sat perfectly on my car when i wound the suspension down, but my pothole ridden road was getting on my t*tties lol
  15. If it was painted with a 4" gloss roller in a matt green with standard steelies... would be me on the way to/back from down south haha... Seen a few lupos on route, but mainly oap drivers
  16. Well its been a while, and a fair bits gone on... Ive painted the inside of the car to match the outer although with a paintbrush this time lol... I then got on to repairing the the front indicator panel with a quick plasti-weld & fill as i couldn't find a replacement, it was then painted & fitted. I also attempted the MDF roof with my mate, and..... with a day of swearing, cut hands and soaked due to the weather, we decided to sack it off... Instead we have soundproofed the roof wiht the same stuff ive done the rest of the car with... The MDF was too straight compared to the major roof curve, meaning we either had to cut the MDF in 2-3 bits, or layer up smaller bendable sheets.. The 1st option being pointless as it would be 'weak' on the joins, and the other option major effort compared with cheapo soundproofing... The soundproofing on the roof has made a massive amount of difference, in fact the whole car has been like driving a bubble... the only other noticeable thing is the car is super hot inside now, as it holds the heat a fair bit lol. Also had a courier deliver me a new middle section... although putting off fitting this as its clearly going to be a crappy job... Today between diy window tinting and quoting work, i had a go at my quick door builds... These have taken me about 2 hours to get to the stage they are at in the last pic (bar the resin drying time, which was about 45 mins with the heatgun to speed up)... Im having two entry sets of 6.5" components for the time being in the doors.... With custom bottom door cards made from a 12mm MDF base, and a 18MM woofer baffle... Then the tweeters are in the upper part of the door as per pics... 18mm Baffle... 12mm Lower Card (cut out to vent midrange speakers slightly and mean a closer fit/thinner door card can be achieved) Tweets Cut & Doorcards Hot glued... Clearance... (note these speakers have plenty of air within the build itself, however are still free air as they are vented into the door) Starting to stretch & glue old t-shirts over ready to resin... Resin - Left to go hard before layering glass... Then the doorcards as they stand now... They are not being smoothed and are being trimmed with a layer of wadding to give a padded feel to them... Hence me not needing to make them 100% perfect... (not far off tho lol)... Then the only thing left to do was to trial fit a tweet... Im possibly opening out the hole in the tweeter mounts to give me the ability to move my manual mirrors inside the car... Haven't decided just yet tho... will have a look in the morning once im back from Birmingham with my fabric to trim up.... (poss grey suede)...
  17. Haha cheers... Not perfect thanks to the dust created by the builder when i was painting... Thinking of wet flatting and applying another final layer to make it a bit better.... haha... usually in a proper walled car it would be 2x18mm sheets up on the roof.... so im going inbetween with just the 1... As for weight, thats fine, and one of the reasons i went for an SDI. (not my post but will explain http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/ipb/index.php/topic/359913-how-thick-for-mdf-roof/ ) Well, glue, screws and expandy foam... once its set it will be fine... will have to prop it up while it cures though...
  18. Just need to grind a few brackets off the boot floor, then I can make a solid base to start from out of 18mm MDF and foam between that & the bodywork.... Im also removing the headlining, and smashing a sheet of 18mm MDF & foam up there to stop roof flex... Il take some pics once I start....
  19. Well heres another alternative post that will have some on here moaning lol... Budget soundproofing Before anyone mentions, this stuff isn't anything like dynamat, brown bread etc... I know, its 10x Cheaper lol... Basically im not trying to trap noise out or in, more stopping/reducing panel flex from my install... Its tried and tested by many cheap skate audio installers, and two pro's I know of.. Anyhow 2 x 10m rolls (240mm wide)... a seam roller & and 3 cans of foam... £52!!! Bargain... This done 2 doors, the rear quarters and the complete floor pan... I started by removing everything and degreasing... With everything clean, it was time to attack with the flash band... This was cut to size, layered up and pressed firm to the panel with the seam roller..... The original sound proofing over the top.... (note the 0-AWG cabling installed) Then the rear panels (the foam will be cut back obviously) And then the doors.... Inside the doors...
  20. Apparently the 180a fits.. I was running 1600W RMS @ 1 ohm of bass, and around 400w rms audio in my walled lupo... On a stock alternator, just with a second leisure battery in the boot to take the strain off the original electrical system.. I never got headlight fade or any other issues, ran like this for 12 months before selling the car and audio One thing to remember with a larger alternator, it will effect the cars performance driving wise as its a big load on the engine.
  21. Yea its stripped in the rear to start soundproofing, and the adjusters are in and wound up a little from memory. Im not using the wheels now as I cant really go much lower on my road (private road so isn't maintained and pothole central), especially with the weight im going to be putting it in. Ideally looking for something similar in a 14/15" now Cheers all for the advice anyhow
  22. There is a 30mm rule.. but after taking a look im fine anyhow, this is my front.... Rear (side profile) And full car... The only thing I can think of is the guy gave me the wrong spec prior to me buying them.... Oh well thanks anyway
  23. Was tempted in doing a few camo bits on the outside, but not sure just yet haha... Fitted my wheels and they look awesome, which is a bit of a p*sser.... The reason being my car will need to come down a little on the coilovers, and once ive put a tonnes worth of wood and audio in it, I wont get down my cr*ppy road... So now on the hunt for something similar in 14-15"... These are now in the classifieds if anyones interested, and the price is negotiable obviously... Ive also replaced the radiator as the last was leaking... for some reason the new one looks thicker, but either way its fitted & working now
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