Jump to content

edbutler

Members
  • Posts

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

edbutler's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

2

Reputation

  1. Hi All, Long time no see on here, but i had to come on to warn people - Sorry about where ive placed this post, i wanted to ensure maximum exposure due to the umbiquitous nature of the engines! Long story short, i have a MY52 Ibiza Mk4 TDi Sport. The Brakes failed suddenly on thursday losing all servo assistance. Needless to say i almost crashed despite selecting 1st gear and a HEAVY tug on the handbrake. These cars barely brake at all without the servo - the Aux pump virtually useless at 25mph+. I popped up the bonnet and found the brake servo hose has split and torn loose. Its a totally crap design - hard plastic pipe moulded onto a plastic 1-way check valve. This pipe for those less technically informed is found on the back of a 1.9PD engine when looking from the front - running paralell to the firewall from the engine to the brake servo (big circular 'ufo' shaped thing above your brake pedals). Just follow the pipe from there and feel around the connectors all the way back to the engine. To make matters worse, i also have a Lupo 1.4 TDi and my friend has a Mk4 Ibiza 1.4TDi - BOTH OF THESE HAD A SPLIT SERVO HOSE TOO!! Literally both were ready to break off. The lupo had admittedly quite hard brakes and now i know why. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE check yours and SPREAD THE WORD. Im in the process to writing to VOSA/Watchdog. These pipes are probably 80% overlooked at MOT's (MOT Testers arent allowed to even remove the engine cover to look). A split hose will also cause extra turbo lag and stop the anti-shudder valve/egr from working properly. Therefore if you get any underboost or EGR error codes, it could be this!! Be safe everyone Ed
  2. Thanks for all your responses! Ill keep at it and bring back a solution if i find one! Fingers crossed!
  3. Hi All, I have a VW Lupo 1.4TDi which is remapped to approx 100BHP. The car pulls well for its slender weight, however has an issue going to Limp mode. It hits limp mode usually going up hill and a constant partial (30-80%) throttle for around 5secs. If you modulate the throttle, even slightly, it will be fine. The error logged is a Positive Deviation error (i think, i actually forgot!). The N75 makes a LOUD ticking noise audible from the cabin when the ignition is on (not engine running) - is this a problem? Ive had a visual/audible check for boost leaks and cant seem to see any at all. Here are my logs at full/part throttle hoping to find what is going on. Notice that the car meets (and exceeds) requested boost at 100% and as such the duty cycle reduces (goes up on the graph)... At part throttle however, the duty cycle is almost maximum (Low on graph) but Actual never meets Requested!! Any ideas please shout! Many thanks all for reading! Full Throttle: ~50% Throttle:
  4. Hi All, firstly id like to introduce myself as a long time lurker of this forum! Im a very proud owner of a 1.4TDi Lupo as a daily driver (other car a Z4) and of the 100 miles i've done so far, absolutely adore it! I got the car rather cheap and it does have a slight problem which i dont mind getting my hands dirty with. I'm usually not bad mechanically but was wanting some input for this as it could be many things... Basically when depressing the clutch, the first 1/3 of travel is VERY light, almost as if there is no return spring. This lightness however exhibits itself as a problem when releasing the pedal; sometimes the pedal doesn't quite return to its normal height and feels as if its sticking 1.5" from the top (fully engaged however). There is a squeaking noise eminating from the gearbox housing, but am unsure if this is the root cause. If anything the biting point is pretty low, but barely lower than my Z4. I've read many threads about the pedal box, but these symptoms seem a little different? Can anyone provide input as a search hasnt shown many results... Possible guesses from me: Snapped clutch return spring (if it even has one!), Needs a fluid bleed, Master cylinder faulty, Slave cylinder faulty, release bearing dead... Oh dear thats a lot of possibilities!! Please help! Ed
  5. Hey All... My name is Ed and i want an Arosa/Lupo! Im a lurker of this forum doing plenty of research etc and generally know VW group cars pretty well. Im about to go look at a nice cheap 1.4TDi Arosa tonight as a cheap winter runaround. Its done ~140k and ive provisionally got him down to 1250 which seams reasonable!? Does it? Im not scared of doing work myself and have another car just incase. Ive seen a few posts on here about cambelts every 40k. My old Ibiza PD130 and my mates Ibiza PD75 are both 60k intervals, is this correct? I know its a high mileage so will be very wary on all wear/tear bearings/bushes, gearbox etc. Rust too. Ive heard about pedal box issues with these and 6N2 polos, is this a problem on the TDi? Any other bits i need to know would be greatly appreciated Ive got a pretty varied car history really and have wanted a Lupo/Arosa ever since i passed 9 years ago! I live in Sheffield and the GF is in Manchester so times call for something that does a little more than 34mpg (Although not bad for a 3L BMW Z4!!) Ever since the SEAT's ive been into the VAG scene, forums etc so would love to be part of another 1. Suzuki Jeep 2. Seat Ibiza Mk4 1.2 12v 3. Seat Ibiza Sport 130PD Running ~185BHP (Cupra kit, 17"s, FMIC, Stage2, S3 Brakes etc etc.) 4. VX220 (Even more mods than the Ibiza! Ran like crap... went like stink!) 5. BMW Z4 3.0i (Ive refurbed the wheels only! Its better for my back ) Take care all!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.