lupo 1.7sdi

The bearings can be replaced. Their codes are: 6303 and 6003. They must be special bearings for alternator, not any bearings. I used FAG and NTN (SKF could be a good choise) Below is a link to a DYI http://vwforum.vwfor...showtopic=68329 It isn't a hard operation for somebody with some experience. You must be very careful because a bearing which is incorrect fitted will have a very short life. Another interesting DYI http://vwforum.vwforum.ro/topic/84114-diy-reconditionare-alternator-bosch/

It seem to be a freewheel pulley but to be sure remove the black cover and if it looks like this then it is a freewheel pulley.

Install this http://www.win-rar.c...hp?id=start&L=0 and you can open it. Push "Download winrar" and then select "Continue to download WinRAR" After download the programe, install it and then you can see the content of archive. Or read this: http://www.filedropp...ddrivemechanism http://www.filedropp...rdrivemechanism http://www.filedropp...ism-adjusting_1 I suggest you to grease the gear linkages first (WD40 and white grease with teflon)

At this link you can find how to adjust the gear drive mechanism. http://www.filedropp...anism-adjusting You should verify all engine mountings too because a bad position of the engine can cause trouble getting into 1st gear, 2nd or R. How it get into R?

Yes it is a strange noise. I think it is better to open the bonnet and to find the source of noise with precision because it could be a serious problem. You can use a flexible pipe like a stethoscope (introduce the beginning of the pipe in your ear and you move the pipe end in different zones). It sound me like a bearing noise. There are bearings in alternator, pulley (on alternator belt or timing belt), clutch or gearbox.Try to make a new film after you open the bonnet and post it here.

Does your car have hydraulic clutch or cable clutch?

There are many causes for which a gearbox can be break but I'm sure that the oil doesn't cause this (of corse if the oil level is correct and it is still OEM). I never saw in any formal documentation that the gearbox oil must be replace, only check and top up if it is necesary It is possible that the gearbox lose some oil through selector shaft seal You have check this. It is not a problem if it is only moistned but it can be if it forms drops or remain some spots below the car. I bought G50 from VW seller because it was the cheapest. At any other stores (in Romania) the prices for OEM parts are more expensive The prices for 1L is about 17Euro and because my car is older than 5 years VW offer me a discount so the final price was 15 Euro. I hope these information will be useful for you. P.S. Sorry for my English because I'm beginner in this language studying.

Gearbox oil depend on type of gearbox not engine. The best for our gearbox is OEM oil G50. If you prefer other brand, than the standard is SAE 75W90 GL4. The quantity required is 2,7 litres. I tried with Liqui Moly and it wasn't good (too viscous at cold temperature, too fluid at hot temperature ), so I replaced it with OEM. I think is not necesary to replace it if you haven't a seriously reason.

http://www.filedropper.com/lupogearbox

http://donsnotes.com/home_garden/auto/antifreeze.html

I completed the G12 over the old one and was not a problem. Of course, and before I had g12 too.

Enter here your option codes http://igorweb.org/e...ec/Default.aspx http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/dsc01244uk.jpg/

Yes, that is the box At this link http://www.filedropper.com/aku I send you some documents about this engine. 160 k I used only Mobil 1 oil, 5W40. Now I use Comma oil, 5W40... It is at least as good, and is made in UK .

For an efficient management of the engine is recommended to change the speed in the range corresponding maximum torque, or almost. Low rpm is not synonymous with lower consumption. A normal rpm is good for a best acceleration.

Normally is over 2000 rpm. I use about 400 for a tank, 50% town, 50% outside, I change the speed over 2000 rpm and I go commonly with 2200-2500 rpm , rarely with 1800-2000 rpm. Is not healty for engine to go under 1800-2000 rpm for a long time.

This is some documentation http://www.filedropper.com/frontbrake

Sorry Newton Meters X 0.7376 = Foot Pounds

175 Nm

Hi, Here, you have some documentation for 1.7sdi, and here is a DIY made by me, is in romanian language but if you register, you can see the pictures which I posted. For translate try Google language tools. If you need I'll try to translate some paragraph. Sorry for my english.