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lupo 1.7sdi

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Everything posted by lupo 1.7sdi

  1. AUA is a 55 kW engine. The similar 55 kW engines that equipped lupo (with the same manual gearbox 085E code FFR or ETD) are: AHW, AKQ, APE, BBY. AUD isn't a 1.4 16v 55kW motor. It is 1.4 8v 44kW engine. I think the most similar with AUA is APE (the wiring diagrams are identical, the same ECU's Magneti Marelli 4AV). AHW and AKQ are the older generation (with only one oxigen sensor), ECU's and wiring diagrams aren't the same with AUA, and BBY is a newer version with two oxigen sensor but with individual induction coil (the same story like AHW and AKQ from the point of view of wiring diagrams and ECU). The conclusion is that the best fit is an APE engine for a direct replacement.
  2. 1. Try to put the transparent fuel hose (7 in diagram) in a tank with diesel fuel. 2. If it start replace the o-rings of control valve. 3. If it not start check the fuel shut off solenoid and timing.
  3. For diesel engines, the vacuum formed in the intake manifold is too small (because a Diesel engine has no throttle butterfies then a vacuum is not created in the inlet manifold in the same way as in a petrol engine) so a separate pump is needed for the brake servo pump and for the control of actuators (EGR, turbo, etc).The PD motors are included it in the tandem pump.
  4. I don't think so. You can not ignore it when installing toothed belt .It is the shaft that drives the oil pump.
  5. SSP_201_Lupo_Design_&_Function.pdf
  6. To diagnose the sensor, check in vag com, Measuring blocks, Group 007 which value indicates the temperature of the coolant. Checking is done in the morning without starting the engine with the contact only. All temperatures in this group should be almost the same. If everything is ok here, then the problem can be the timming. To determine if it is ok, check the second field in Basic Settings (BS), Group 000 (attention Basic settings not Measuring Blocks, are not the same). Read this and for complete the diagnose put some print screen with MB, Group 001, 004, 013 and BS, Group 000, all with cooling fluid over 80 degrees Celsius.
  7. 1.4TDI: 6N0199851AF 1.2TDI: 6E0199851 1l: 6N0199851AG or 6N0199851AL (depending chassis number) 1.4 l and SDI: 6N0199851AH 1.4 FSI: 6N0199851B 1.6: 6N0199851D
  8. If the spark plugs have no spark and injectors do not receive fuel when it does not start then check/replace the Hall sender (G40) http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk3/power_unit/motronic_injection_and_ignition_system/ignition_system_glow_plug_system/servicing_ignition_system/removing_and_installing_parts_of_the_ignition_system/ Fault of immobilizer causes the engine to stop to a one second after starting.
  9. Bank 1, Sensor 1 = pre-cat Bank 1, Sensor 2 = after-cat Bank 2 is for longitudinal engine with two exhaust manifold. https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2015/03/24/19/52/pic-3585884633758656484-1600x1200.jpeg
  10. First renew the fuel filter orings (elements no.5). To establish the source of the air in the fuel lines remove the hose no. 10 of filter and enter it directly into a bottle with diesel. If it start the main issue could be that orings.
  11. http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk3/power_transmission/5-speed_manual_gearbox_085/gearbox_mechanicsoperation_constructiondiff./servicing_selector_mechanism_(cable_selector_mechanism)/adjusting_gear_selector_mechanism_(cable_control_gear_selection)/ It is the same gearbox like lupo sdi. You need VW 3192 Gear stick jig . Before adjusting try to check this part http://vwforum.ro/topic/41333-probleme-cutie-de-viteze-manuala/?do=findComment&comment=2717605 Have you same difficulties when the engine is off?
  12. Thanks for pics, very interesting. Currently I canceled the EGR valve and intake flap by canceling the vacuum and I feel better torque at low revs, but I see that it can be better. Your screen grabs looks good, but let's take them one by one: gr. 001: the amount injected at idle is a bit high ---> the consumption at idle could be a bit high (I have 0.3l/hour--->gr 015), low consumption in motion (my consumption) and the car can be a bit lazy. My engine has 2,4mg/str at 900C. It can be adjusted small limits with this method or in larger limits with hammer mod gr 004: Ok, but is interesting to know which is the value in Basic settings, 000 group, the second field. You can log any kind of parameters (Push Log--->Browse-->Start--->Done,close) at idle or walking ( very useful in this situation because you can record parameters without having to keep an eye on laptop ), but at start if the battery it is not in good condition the software will loses the communication with ECU due to lower voltage, so you need an additional source of power (another car) I attached some information about measuring blocks and how to test the N108 Observation: 1.It is more useful to attach logs to the post 2. I think we need a separate topic for the diagnosis of Lupo/Arosa diesel engines measuring blocks.pdf Checking injection timing control range.pdf
  13. The air comes from outside of engine bay for larger quantity of oxygen (cold air= more oxygen , in engine bay the air is too hot so less oxigen)
  14. Intake flap is on or off? How the flowed induction system looks? A pics, or a link because I am very curious how this system looks and how effective it is. I don't think the cat is blocked. If it is blocked...no power. How is the idle fuel consumption (group 015, the third display field)
  15. In group 007 For a knocky engine can be both management causes and mechanical condition of engine. To determne the management causes the following is needed: if there are error codes Some printscreen (or pics), as a in the example above, to the following groups: 000, 001, 004, 007, 013, 015
  16. Yes, it is a mechanism in the injection pump. It is known as N108 valve (no. 17 in below picture)
  17. That is not the oil breather pipe, it is connection piece for cold air intake
  18. @mk2 I'll answer here because It was a bit offtopic on the topic where you asked: Yes, the ECU compensate a wrong timing adjusted, but within certain limits. I'll explain a little using my own engine. My timing is a little late.....a bit more. We can see this in Basic settings, group 000, the second display zone (this is my actual timing). This is not good. At this engine (AKU) this numerical value must be like in next picture but this is not a tragedy because the ECU working hard and working hard and we can see the results in Measuring blocks, group 000, the second display zone it looks like the picture above Yet no matter how much it is deregulated the timing and this can be seen in Measuring blocks 004 group. In this group numerical value in display zone 3 should be almost equal to the numerical value in display zone 2 and in this time the numerica value in display zone 4 must be in the middle of the range. My engine meets these conditions and did not beat my head with additional adjustments It is important to note that the starting ECU does not influence the timing so it is very important for a good starting the numerical value of timing in Basic settings 000 group. Fortunately my car starts perfectly with timing in all conditions as it is set now Last winter started to -20 celsius (-4 Fahrenheit) without glow plugs, hard but it started.
  19. To check the status of the injectors with VagCom / VCDS you can read the compensation of injectors in Engine / Measuring Blocks / 013 group. Try to mix some two stroke semisynthetic oil in diesel fuel (100ml 2T oil/20l fuel) and use fuel with 55 cetane number. After that tell us how your engine sounds. I use 2t for more than 4 years (approx 43k miles, EGR OFF) in combination with Power Service additive (occasionally) and engine sounds like new, and the compensation injectors are almost 0 If you have EGR OFF, this may be a cause for a noisier engine.
  20. They are not links, they are attached documents to post (in pdf format, to read them need to be logged in and you must have Adobe Acrobat installed on your computer). But if you can not read them nevertheless, I have converted to doc. Removing, installing and tensioning toothed belt.doc Checking semi-automatic toothed belt tensioning roller.doc Dynamically checking and adjusting commencement of injection.doc Removing and installing ribbed belt..doc Removing and installing ribbed belt1.doc To check the commencement of injection you do not need an VCDS too recent, a 409.1 vagcom is sufficient (of course It must have full functionality, not with shareware program)
  21. I always changed all the pulleys of timing belt kit. You can also change optionally the ribbet belt, ribbet belt tensioner pulley, alternator pulley and coolant pump. It depends on their condition and requires an initial evaluation. I never replaced the coolant pump when I changed the timing belt kit (I replaced it once from error when the car had 124,000 miles, currently it have 205,000 miles). I replaced the ribbet belt tensioner pulley twice (one of them by mistake of course) and the alternator pulley twice (one was the real cause of the two errors) It might be necessary to replace the toothed belt cover, the lower part When I changed the last time the distribution, the cover looked quite bad ( It was deformed and scuffed by the sprocket ). I attached some documents and do not forget: after changing timing belt kit is mandatory to do dynamically checking and adjusting commencement of injection. For this it is necessary a vagcom or a vcds. Removing, installing and tensioning toothed belt.pdf Checking semi-automatic toothed belt tensioning roller.pdf Dynamically checking and adjusting commencement of injection.pdf Removing and installing ribbed belt.pdf Removing and installing ribbed belt1.pdf
  22. Yes, you guessed right is Romanian language not Spanish, so you do not need to learn Spanish. But I need to learn English better to make me understand. For a long time I had a noise when passing over bumps or curves (It sounds like something hit the bodywork). First time I suspected that rubber doughnuts. But some time ago I fixed the exhaust pipe (I replaced the muffler) and I noticed that exhaust pipe was not centered correctly due the grip from the front of catalyst converter. I fixed it and no strange noises. In conclusion I suggest you first check centering of the exhaust pipe (shake the rear silencer vigorously in all directions: do not have to hear blows in the bodywork) Of course it could be other causes, but this is easiest to check (visual inspection would be welcome) If you want to translate some passages of my topic I will try, but not very soon because I'm very busy.
  23. Engine code...............................................Gearbox code AHW...........................................................DKF, DXP, ETD, FFR AKQ........................................................... DKF, DKG, DXP, ETD APE............................................................DXD, DXP, ESY, ETD AUA............................................................ETD, FFR
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