Jump to content

Pete

Premium Member
  • Posts

    4,582
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    50

Everything posted by Pete

  1. You don’t do that to a car with the mindset of selling it do you, you don’t modify any car for the thought of resale value, you do it to suit your own taste and what you want to make you smile.
  2. Welcome back, car looks great, I don’t have fb so it’s nice to see the car again.
  3. High temp silicone is still gasket isn’t it? And have you got low voltage faults for the other modules?
  4. There’s gaskets over each compartment when the plug sits, they fail and it allows the oil splash in.
  5. There’s a gasket around the top of the cam carrier which fails and starts letting oil inside the plug chambers, a wet, oily spark plug will struggle to provide a good spark, especially from cold with cold, thick oil around it. The only reason I know this is because it happened on my wife’s one, spent ages cleaning and cleaning the tb, replacing the tb and then noticed the plugs had oil round them.
  6. I’d be tempted to whip out your plugs and see if they’re oily.
  7. Get it scanned for faults, could be cam/crank sensor issues, immobiliser faults etc.
  8. Wiring I’d say. You changed your igniters for new?
  9. Flippin gay minidisc players...
  10. Yeah, pull the shroud back from the sensor and the cables with have colour codes, then look for the same colours at the ecu end and check for continuity. Saying that though if it’s intermittent you can’t guarantee a faulty reading, could do with a proper test point kit and then wiggle the loom about.
  11. Maybe the repair didn’t last? But I’d definitely be checking the wiring to the sensor from the ecu. As has been suggested.
  12. Saying that I’ve got a decent vac tester and diag machine at home that I’d probably use first if it’s raining.
  13. How do you mean release from the cable, can you show us? Do you mean the collar that you push down isn’t popping back up again?
  14. Yeah I’ll second that, it’s the tower at fault, not the cables or lever. Remember me switching mine over rich?
  15. Well it probably won’t, but whenever you uprate anything, especially the engine, which is where most people seem to start, which you’d still need to declare btw, you then need to start thinking of every other component. More power means more power to the gearbox, so you uprate your clutch so you can make the most of the extra power and thus keep it reliable, no point having extra power with a slipping clutch, that all comes down to reliability. More power means more speed, so you then have to think about how to slow the speed meaning bigger/better brakes, bigger servos etc. More power means you need better manoeuvrability, as you only go to the trouble of doing all this stuff if you intend to chuck it about a lot, that means sticky tyres, decent suspension to keep up with it, I’ll not go down the uprated bushes route coz there is a lot to be said for staying with standard ones, but rear anti roll bars, thicker front bars etc. Again, all this needs declaring and probably 75% of it would be necessarily to keep it ‘reliable’. Or you could just save the engine and gearbox work by sticking a 1.8 in it, 150+ in a lupo would be plenty, especially with the extra weight. Or you could just save all that hassle and get a low mileage cupra r. Probably would end up cheaper by the time you’d finished tbh. More space, quicker as standard, good fun when played about with.
  16. Well that will all go out of the window anyway when you chuck a bigger engine in or faff with the current one.
  17. Fast reliable daily? Cupra R mk1.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.