Skezza

THIS +1000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 Thank god there is someone out there who uses the same reasoning as I do! Which Deadmetal might not look good on you considering I'm regularly called a nutjob lol! I've never EVER seen the point in parcel shelf speakers for this exact reason specifically, yet when I use it, people look at me like I'm a complete thick ****. I'm somewhat satisfied that I aren't totally insane.

Hey, what kind of fascia?

In all honesty, I wouldn't retrofit Electric Windows. They're the only one that if they go horribly wrong, you truly are ****ed. In more than one scenario. I remember looking at a second hand car with retrofitted windows. Firstly, the interior had big ugly holes where the old winders were, and there was no way it seemed to patch them apart from sewing some cloth over the top. The mechanism was quickly wearing out on one of the doors so it was incredibly slow rolling down and even slower rolling up, and sometimes didn't even make it all the way back up. An awkward moment when it only made it 3 quarters of the way up and the guy tried to fiddle it up using a combination of the switch and his flailing palm. Manual windows aren't all that bad dude. They always work in the freezing weather, unlike electric

Yes. I do half consider that might be a possibility

Basically, I'd say buy a new head unit (if the current one fitted is OEM) and a new set of door speakers and you'll notice a million times difference. The original head units are pretty average although mine always got better radio reception than any AM unit i've fitted. If you fancy single DIN, I suggest Alpine as they're quite smart. Double? I'd suggest Kenwood as they look similarly smart whereas I find Alpine double din very garish. Sound quality, there's very little difference between the big boys, they're all good, Kenwood, Pioneer, Alpine are all the dogs and to be honest, I think Sony are fast catching up, they certainly aren't bad, although I haven't tested enough stereos. If you do want your car as an actual car that you can use for everything from picking up friends to doing the shopping I suggest not going all Barry boy with it. I need to be careful what I say here because I'll get jumped on by those who disagree, but seriously, if you want your Lupo like a normal every day car you really only need to change your front door speakers and head unit. If you desperately want sound coming from the back, a set of decent parcel shelf speakers wouldn't hurt. I don't recommend a sub, at least right now, I still don't get it.

Looks smart mate! (Y)

See, that's what I needed to say Ta! haha

Interesting thread. On my green 1.0E, the OEM backbox and tailpipe fell off at about 80k (ridiculously high according to Staffordshire Tyre & Battery). It fell off midweek, which is a bad time for me, so it took something like 10-12 days before I actually got it fixed. In truth, I work office hours so getting it sorted was a bit of a pain. I have to be honest, I grew to like the sound of my 1.0 with no exhaust on. I'd disagree Joe and say that it sounded better than chainsaw although I wasn't the one outside. It certainly didn't sound Corsa'ish, which is a sort of high pitched fizzing noise (see McDonalds car park Friday nights). It was a lower pitched sound, although it definitely sounded a bit Barry boy which is why I couldn't keep it for long. To get around the issue of being caught, I kept the old exhaust in the boot lol, expecting to be pulled. I'd have just said, it fell off earlier and I've got the old one in the boot. The main reason I wanted to reply though, I do think it affected my MPG, only slightly though. There's a lot of hoo-ha about whether petrol cars truly scavenge and whether having a straight pipe reduces economy, well, just talking from experience, it seemed to in my case. I can get a very specific 4 trips to work and back on my green Lupo, at which point it's running on fumes. Well, that week, I had to fill up earlier than usual because I burnt more petrol. I can't tell if that's because I was putting my foot down a lot more to get the sound or the fact it wasn't scavenging, but it's just something worth considering if you use it as a daily. I did hear someone say that if it's the sound you are after, you could just cut the backbox in half, remove all the sound reduction material (like fur i think they said) and leave the baffles in and you'd get a much louder raspy exhaust, without losing the economy. Don't know though tbh.

Pm'ing now

I'm a noob when it comes to this. How easy would it be to do myself?

OK, I've had an accident in the ice and the green machine isn't looking so lean I'm trying to price up a repair asap, but the snow is causing issues for the repair guy to get out to give me a quote, I have to use a car for work so I need to make a decision this weekend. So basically, the cost to repair will dictate whether I try and get the green machine fixed or whether I simply buy a new Lupo straight away, can any of you give estimates: Bumper bar reinforcement girder has been hit and is definitely warped slightly centre ways.Bumper is smashed.Bonnet is clearly trashed as you can see.Driver side wing damaged, badly crumpled (potential to flatten?)Front grill is in pieces.Left (on picture, right from driver wheel) headlight has been ripped from the bracket so its more or less hanging in mid air right now.Left (on picture, right from driver wheel) indicator has been pretty much obliterated.Front brace that holds the indicators has been torn in halfPlus potential damage under the bonnet we cant see. The radiator is okay but its taken a knock and is slightly creased in the centre, I think it'll survive though. Car is still driveable. I got it home okay, and took it to my mates to get it checked and it still drives perfectly, but obviously some keen young copper will stop me one day and have me. I'm sorry you have to see such a sad looking little Lupo

I had the opposite of this. Mine gave the correct reading to the ecu but -40 to the needle on the dashboard. Was irritating but not a big deal. Had it fixed eventually when my coolant level sensor packed in.

My setup. The sun doesn't help.

Are you looking for an LCD screen?

I dont dislike Arosa's but having sat in both and obviously driven the Lupo, I felt the Lupo was slightly nicer and better made. I found the Lupo seats nicer as well but that might be a placebo effect All opinion though. So i disagree with mattarosa, and others BUT my point was that the op is clearly trolling, even if it wasn't his intention. Its a pointless post.

Pointless post. Obviously a troller so ignore. I urge Arosa users to just ignore and get on with it. Otherwise you get disputes... such as now because in my opinion Mattarosa is talking out of his arse, but then not quite as much as the dingus original poster, so let's just say the Arosa is a cracking car that shares pretty much the same manufacturing qualities as a Lupo. I think Silver put it correctly. Happy?

useful

Hmm, see that seems a bit unnecessary, especially if the switch is available on the ISO block. I'm tempting to stick a multimeter on the of the orange wire and see what the crack is with that. If 12v is detected when headlights are on, and 0v when headlights are off, it's the correct wire.... hmmm, I think! Not totally convinced mind.

On Settings, there is three modes for brightness: Auto Day Night as you can expect, Day is very bright, Night is darker. Auto is supposed to do just that, dim the head unit when the headlights are on. I assume the reason why it's not doing that (Auto basically is Day at the moment, always very bright) is because that Illumi wire from the back of the HU isn't connected?

Just lately, I've been getting a little ticked off with the brightness of my double din screen. Turning it down requires me to go into the settings and is a bit of a ballache. The back of the HU has a single wire labelled 'Illumi'. I've read that I can simply tap into the orange wire on the Wiring Harness and connect it, and this will work however I've also read on another VW forum that this causes the old magic smoke to appear and subsequent lack of illumination altogether. Does anyone know the easiest way to wire this in so I have illumination controls? Cheers Edit: P.S. I'd prefer not to wire into the cig socket, if possible.

Towards the back as in near the tailpipe? I know this sounds strange but if it's moved (or broken) your exhaust anywhere between the mid and rear section, check that it isn't tapping your suspension leg. About 6 months ago, my Lupo was making a hell of a noise when going round corners and I thought the exhaust was simply falling off and started to drag on the floor, but on first inspection. it hadn't so I kept driving, when I got back under and had a proper look, I realized that the mid section had broken away and the rubber noose thing that held it on was shaking it and it had been tapping (quite hard might I add) against the suspension leg. Didn't cause any damage though.

No, what I mean is, if the house brick hit your sump and didn't split it, you're lucky lol! I don't mean you're lucky it hit the sump, I mean you're lucky that you didn't damage the sump despite hitting it lol!Bad sentence on my part

When you say less like grinding? So is it more like a constant vibration? Is it rhythmic? As in not a constant noise. That's can be an indication something is caught in the pads or wheels (each rotation causing a single grind obviously). If it hit your sump you are pretty lucky to be honest lol.

When you say a horrible grinding noise, need a few more details. How loud? Where's it coming from, front, back, any side? (try your best to guess, e.g. rear axle? )? I know you probably aren't able to get underneath but from what you can see from the front, back and sides can you say approximately wear the main impact was?

I don't know how to brake into the Lupo but the AA showed me how to brake into a 106 in less than 2 minutes. I reckon the same technique would work with my Lupo.