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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/23/2020 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Yesterday I gave the Lupo a good clean inside and out. So this morning I just had to take a couple of pictures because it looked so very shiny in the morning light, even though the dog was very impatient to go and run around the woods. At some point in his life it's definitely had a re-spray. There is some silver mist on the rear window seals, rear light clusters and bonnet rubber seal. So mmmmh, I do wonder what happened there?! All in all though it is looking remarkably fresh for a 16 year old car with 118000 miles on the clock. The 2 Mazda MX-5's of similar vintage I bought in July were definitely in worse shape. (However, they were also only a quarter of the price.) I've also done a temporary bodge on the broken door-strap-bracket using a M6 bolt, a washer, a bit of rawlplug, some heat shrink and a lock nut. That appears to be fairly stable, and it looks like welding the washer to the remainder of the bracket would solve the problem permanently. I am still looking into swapping the hinges for ones with integrated catch mechanism. I did have a rummage around the scrap yard and predictably they appear to be the same across the VW Audi range. I couldn't actually take one off though because of a lack on giant torx bits. Changing the cam belt and water pump is scheduled for Sunday...
  2. 2 points
    O/S window motor is 6X0 959 801 B N/S window motor is 6X0 959 802 B The motors fit all Lupo's, it's the regulators that are GTI/3L specific GTI N/S/F regulator - 6E0 837 461 B, obsolete from VW, not showing as a classic part either GTI O/S/F regulator - 6E0 837 462 B, showing as available in Germany to order Neither come with motors
  3. 2 points
    Right, I still haven't decided what to do with the door catch strap. I have been told that door hinges from an Audi A6 C6 are a straight swap, which would make the whole catch strap redundant, so I'm looking into that... In other news: Last weekend, matey next door removed his precious BMW from his garage and we had planned to do the timing belt and water pump. However as it turned out, both the water pump and timing belt kit I got from eurocarparts were wrong (I've got the right bits from VW now, so we'll do that next weekend, but grrrrr!). So instead we had a go at fixing the wipers. It looks like at some point the link from the motor to the passenger side wiper arm fell off and whoever has fixed that put it back together upside down, with the result that it caught and destroyed the plastic cover as well as working itself loose again and causing that annoying rattle I mentioned earlier. I really don't understand this sort of thing, as it was immediately apparent that it's supposed to go the other way round, before I even looked in the book. Speaking of things I don't understand: I also fixed the 3rd brake light. Fixed in this case means re-connected the 3rd brake light. When I took the spoiler off, besides a thriving ecosystem, I found the wires for the 3rd brake light loose inside the boot lid, without the plug of course. So, I cleaned everything up, checked if the actual light unit works (yes), soldered on a new plug (I've found one that fits in the random-electricals-box, yay!) and put everything back together. This sort of thing also makes me doubt the validity of at least the latest MOT test. Surely that's at least an advisory?! I wonder what I will discover next... All in all though I'm in love with my little Lupo. It's hilariously good fun to drive. It's almost comical to see the gap to the car behind if I'm in pole 1st away from traffic lights. It makes a delicious growly noise when I stamp on the throttle. And I'm annoying people in Focus ST's and Audi A3's who completely underestimate how quick the little thing is. Mwahaha!
  4. 2 points
    I have a need to tell everyone to not even attempt to change the alternator in an SDI. At least not without taking the engine out. There is no job more difficult. On any car. Any model. If you have a need to change the alternator, I'd suggest you get some unsuspecting garage to do it for £75 plus parts (or whatever regular alternator swap price they charge). You even need to change the oil and drain the coolant. And remove the cam belt. And air filter. And both front wheels. And power steering system. I was thinking about doing a how-to. Nope, not happening. Get someone else to change the thing for you. There, I've said it. I now can go and chill. Grrr. 😡
  5. 1 point
    I've been challenged to put Audi TT seats in my son's ibiza cupra. That opened a right can of worms. Get your tape measure out. You may find that the runners are too wide. I've found at least 3 different widths across the Vag platforms. The narrowest is the mk1 Audi TT which seems to be unique at around 410mm. The common dimension is 478mm. Also the distance from the front of the runner to the seat back changes. My Octavia is 50mm further back than my son's ibiza cupra. I have A6 seats in my T5 van. I had to make adapter plates to do it.
  6. 1 point
    Ooh, uncommon - I'll keep an eye out for you!
  7. 1 point
    Same here... I picked up a spare front and rear recently from @Little tank , so I can rotate the frames between cars, then do one at a time. I need to completely strip it then take it down the local sand blasters. Ideally I'd dip galvanise them, but doing the inside channels is difficult.
  8. 1 point
    185/35/17 when you put this tires on 17's then the wheel size is the same as original Lupo GTI 205/45/15.
  9. 1 point
    It's been a while since I last have beed here. My Lupo had some changes done to it, and I got me self a second one
  10. 1 point
    Yeah, for the first time the other day, I dismantled the door strap mech/pin. Just curious.... Anyway, it's not a straight forward pin or bolt thing. For some really really wierd reason, vdub have decided to make that bolt a double threaded "pin". So the top of the bolt (or pin), just under the head has an M6 thread and the end of it has a few mm of M4 thread. So both ends of the bolt are threaded, with a smooth bit in the middle. What a stupid design! I get why they fail now. When you tighten it up, the top and bottom part have to be in lock step together or you get one turn out of thread. AND, if the space between the top and bottom bit is out, you'll mess up the thread. Mad. Why didn't they use a V notch with step, like you get on plastic engine fittings... I dunno (shaking my head here). I can't think of an easy fix that will work quietly and reliably. I measured the strain on that pin, and it's huge. Like momentary 250kg. A regular bolt wont do it. Ok, so maybe a 10.3 strength bolt, but yiu still need a smooth rod section, or the thread will simply eat away at the new loop. Heat shrink or other inserts would be a complete waste of time with such a high loading. That overspray- sounds like a side swipe that was fixed in the car's early life?
  11. 1 point
    That is brilliant. Thank you. After going to the garage this morning it is working now but the motor maybe tempermental. Not the Mech. GTI N/S/F regulator was the one i was having issues getting anywhere.
  12. 1 point
    I remember a post ages ago about this video but dont remember anyone having the link. Found this - http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Top-Gea...0329_634953.htm
  13. 1 point
    Just spotted a black Lupo sdi (I think) going up Rotherfield Way towards Emmer Green as I was driving home from work, but until my brain engaged and I thought “aww another Lupo” we were well past each other...
  14. 1 point
    Looks stunning, as always!
  15. 1 point
    I've seen a dark blue Lupo twice last week on the Oxford Road. There is a silver Gti driving about, I'm sure! Mainly going from Tilehurst to Caversham in the morning and from Caversham to Tilehurst in the evening, but not this week as I'm not working...
  16. 1 point
    Looks awesome bit of fabrication. Keep up the nice work.
  17. 1 point
    The latest addition, a new custom intake made by a friend of mine at Motion Fabrication. Very pleased with the work and how it turned out, looks very neat in the engine bay. It runs directly to where the inner sidelights used to be, so it should get maximum airflow. I also went to Santa Pod this weekend to GTI Festival. Haven't been to Pod for quite a while so I thought why not see what the GTI can do now. I took the car up the 1/4 mile strip when I first got the car completely standard, my best time then was a 15.9. I then went back a few years ago when the car had the full manifold exhaust system, intake and a lightened flywheel. I done a 15.4 so a decent improvement. Now with the cams, headwork and tune I managed to do a 14.8. Over a second faster than when the car was standard is a big improvement, well happy with that. I know this car isn't built for drag racing at all, but it's an easy way to see how much difference the upgardes have made
  18. 1 point
    Sounds like the hatchback creaking. See if you can still get the noise with the back open.
  19. 1 point
    Yeah i don't use TPS. Their customer services are awful. Everyone says that.
  20. 1 point
    If it was a Laser blue one with that mileage than that price would be close to bang on. Remember laser blue there is only 4/5 in the country. (so rarity plays in as factor). There is a red one on ebay at the moment with similar mileage and that is up to 5k already. It was on Gumtree for £6,200 (but i don't think gumtree is where to advertise these days) (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Lupo-GTI-1-6-16v/154131766510?hash=item23e2f81cee:g:fnIAAOSwehZfgLw7) Also there has been two Gtis that sold £6500 recently (one was a ex press car with more miles but has the history and had every option ticked). Also you have to think of the spares package it comes with Spare alloy wheel (looks new) value couldn't say as i think its a obsolete item. Orignal red piped mats spare - £100 at least in that condition (again obsolete) Orignal rubber mats spare - for set around £50 (i think its a obsolete item) Spare centre caps (6 of them). Say £20 a cap for arguments sake. (£120) Two brand new tyes - Look like toyo Proxieres TR1 (retail around £60 each from demon tweaks) Another factor that has to be considdered is "its not a import" as his AirCon speced. Makes it slightly easier to insure (not sure what the insurance deal with imports, maybee davy can elaborate as his a import) Realistally £7500
  21. 1 point
    Finally got round to fitting rear axle today
  22. 1 point
    i would hope after 8 years he has passed uni and got a new car haha
  23. 1 point
    Congratulations with your first car! I guess something is wrong with the switches, you can remove them and take a look. Stary by pulling cables 2 and 3 manually, if thats make difference, then its only controller problems. Read this manual before, sadly this page don't contain long pfd type document, therefore notice next page button to read next pages.
  24. 1 point
    That rear bolt- i had to remove the "fan belt" tensioner pulley. (LH thread if anyone else wants to give it a go). I managed to extract it from below, by manouvering it past the oil filter (removed), past the thermostat hose (removed), past the power steering feed pipe (removed). And air filter box out. And cam belt, just so I could get my hand in there. Oh, and removed the engine mount like you said. And engine under tray. And both wheels for good measure.... Glad I took the cam belt off though- it was not happy teeth side and the little idler bearing was completely shot after just 2 years and 12k miles. I don't like removing the front bumper/trim panel, as the clips or panel are so fragile now the plastic is old, they just snap. Either way though, such a lot of faff. I actually have a spare SDI engine which I was constantly referring to, as visibility is not good. I stand by my thoughts though. Take the car to some unsuspecting mechanic who'll tell you it's a breeze changing alternators. Yes it is on most cars. Then there's the Lupo SDI alternator... (My alternator fault was that it was drawing current from the battery once switched off. I haven't had a chance to look at the thing yet, but I suspect one of the diodes in it has partly failed. It was drawing about 160mA. After a week, the battery was almost drained.)
  25. 1 point
    Eh, did this the other week, it's a bit faffy but not impossible. Had to do it (amongst other things) for the MOT because the car had been standing that long, the thing had seized solid and screws/bolts keeping regulator on were also shot, so no quick fix there. Anyway: 1. Take the front end off (front bumper and metal crash bar thing) so you have better access -and also so you can pull the old Alt out of the now exposed aperture in the front panel, and pass the new one back in through it. Also take under engine cover off. 2. Using the extra access with the front end off along with the newly presented front panel aperture, remove the front facing long bolt on the alternator. 3. The second long bolt at the back is, i will give you that, a pain to extract, but you can get to it if you've got nimble fingers and a ratchet spanner (a necessity for this job). Firstly using the longest spanner you have that fits (or using the double up trick) from underneath lever the Aux belt tensioner out of the way, as much as humanly possible so you can actually access the back bolt (you cannot otherwise) and fix the levered tensioner spanner in place with a zip tie to the front panel (you can now also change the Aux belt if you feel like it). You can now then get to and undo the long back bolt with the ratchet spanner -this may take a while as you can't get much rotation in the space for long strokes... 4. Once loosened, to actually get the bolt out of it's slot however you need to slightly drop that side of the engine by undoing the three engine mount bolts that side of the engine a small amount -not a lot, just a cm or so (prop up the bottom of the engine with a jack with a bit of wood inbetween, this will help later to push the engine back up to tighten the mount back up) -you can now slide the bolt out past the chassis arm it will otherwise not clear. 5. Pull the now free Alternator (take plugs and connectors off if you haven't already before you do) out through the front panel aperture. 6. Fix the new alternator in place by doing the above in reverse, sorted.
  26. 1 point
    A full set bathurts on ebay in Derby. Need a refurb but seller would take 100. I know this as I messaged him today but decided on other wheels to buy.
  27. 1 point
    Why did the pheasant cross the dual carriage way? Probably not to get mowed down by a Lupo at 70mph but there we are, upshot is I once again need a passenger side tow eye cover. Black would be ideal, however since this is the second one I've had go AWOL I'll consider any colour and am also interested in pairs or just the drivers side as clearly I could do with some spares...
  28. 1 point
    My sdi cost me less than 1/3 of that.
  29. 1 point
    Looks weld-able to me - suspect it will be a PITA to do. Likely it will need the door taken off, a donor part from a scrap yard - hack saw to get as much of the part as possible. Cut back the damaged section to a straight line of not stretched metal just past the damage: and weld the replacement section back on - the good news is the lower good part will help match up and align the replacement bit.
  30. 1 point
    I totally agree MK2, since you told you wanted to build mk2 synchro analogue for Lupo, if you don't put rims with large offset or spacers, and simply widen chassis by fitting wider subframes, there should be no problems with wheel bearings. Since You are talking about roll-cage, snorkel and wheel guards, Your idea actually don't fit "VW Lupo which looks similar to the VW Golf Country Mk2 and fulfills a similar purpose", mk2 synchro was actually weak 4x4 car (viscous coupling) which did not needed roll-cage and snorkel. I don't know for what purposes You want a 4x4 Lupo, but I suggest to fit Lupo body on AWD frame, for example Suzuki Samurai frame is much more appropriate for off-road and roll-cage than few VW subframes. Samurais have 1.3 engine as well, would need to attach Lupo body to frame. There was an idea about 4x4 Lupo with Fiat Panda drive train, which is slightly harder than fitting body on frame.
  31. 1 point
    I thought so. I’ll have to have another think about it and meanwhile keep yelling at my passengers to be careful when opening that door.
  32. 1 point
    There's no extra offset or anything clever. It's basically standard running gear with a few extras. Everything has just been lifted. That's all. Here's a pic showing the wheel in the 'normal' position, just the body has been raised. Here's the chassis simply bolted on. It's really a bit amateurish if you look closely. Mind you, they were all hand built, with something like only 500 produced in total.
  33. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. I'll change the oil on my drive then.
  34. 1 point
    Having now looked at what you're referring to as the a pillar loop I can concede you're slightly ****ed unless surgery is an option. It appears to be something which is put in place during construction and the only way is surgery to remove part of the inner skin.
  35. 1 point
    How much oil did you get out with the car at that angle? I need to change mine and usually go to a place with ramp but might just do it on the drive instead.
  36. 1 point
    I’ve got a cheapo generic obd2 reader off amazon I bought when the Skoda’s engine light came on because of a stuck turbo valve actuator. That can read and erase error codes and read basic sensors. I have the Bmw diagnostics program which is much more detailed, e.g showing when a fault occurred, how often and under which conditions and does all the fancy can bus stuff too. That was quite exciting.
  37. 1 point
    Hey, at least you have a squishy mat to lean on
  38. 1 point
    Ach! Small errors with catastrophic consequences, they are the worst! The Lupo and I have made some progress today. I've changed the alternator belt, so no more annoying squealy noise. That's an enormous improvement right there! I've checked the timing belt and replacing that is top of the list of things to do. Still not sure though if I pay someone to do it or try to bribe my mechanic/neighbour with cake to give me a hand. He does this sort of thing for fun apparently. I've also changed oil and filter, spark plugs and air filter. A couple of things have popped up, of course. Spark plugs 1 and 2 had quite a bit of oil on them. I'm hoping that's been caused by the haphazard oil filling procedure of previous mechanics (or a leaky oil filler cap maybe). But a failing cam cover seal is also on the cards. Earlier this week I've been reading a thread about Gti's pretending to be kangaroos when cold including @mk2's entirely plausible explanation what's causing it, e.g. sticky throttle valve. And indeed there was quite a bit of oily gunk inside the air filter housing, throttle valve and splattered all over the throttle body, but it's not immediately obvious where it's coming from. Crankcase breather possibly?! That will need looking into. So that's gonna keep me occupied for a while... I can also report that the new tyres have made a massive improvement in terms of noise vibration and harshness as well as grip. I can definitely recommend those Hankooks. Oh another thing: @mk2 with you being local, I wondered if you have any idea how I could get my hands on a computer running vw software for doing some geeky diagnostics? I'm assuming that similar to how it is with BMW that you get lots more info compared to a generic obd2 reader?!
  39. 1 point
    Yeah, the top loop seems to have snapped in half. I like your second idea better, in fact I have been thinking along similar lines. I'm not really bothered about OEM or not, I just want to prevent the door falling off. I'll share when I've figured it out. And then I was being a total and utter klutz! First I put the steering wheel a notch or so out of alignment when I did the wiper switch on Sunday. Obviously that annoyed me all week, so I took the steering wheel off again to straighten it and in doing so I broke the little yellow plug apart that connects to the airbag. D'oh! Idiot! So: Airbag light on - Replacement clock spring £18.95 off eBay arriving Tuesday or Wednesday next week.
  40. 1 point
    Proper pics. Proper workshop. That's dedication to the cause 👍🏻
  41. 1 point
    Welcome to Club Lupo There's a how-to do it yourself on here.
  42. 1 point
    Not a brilliant picture, but that's the a-pillar-loop we are referring to
  43. 1 point
    Yeah, it's the yellow bit in this pic (From EGR how-to), below the word "tied". I'd check the output using VCDS before changing it. Might be ok.
  44. 1 point
    Aarrgh. I've had a week from hell at work, so therefore the delay in writing on here. I've replaced the wiper switch, which was a piece of cake thanks to @Rich's succinct instructions I found on here. When I re connected the battery, this happened. Lol. 4 new tyres have been fitted and wheel alignment done on Tuesday. @mk2: It's the bracket on the A pillar. I'm gonna have to think of a solution for this that isn't yelling at the passenger to be careful every time someone opens that door. Any suggestions are more than welcome... This is the manual I've bought. It seems to be alright. It has lots of drawings instead of photographs as in the Haynes manuals. But I probably prefer them as they are clearer. The only rust I could find is a smidgen on the drivers side rear wheel arch and the boot handle. Changing cam belt and aux belt is top of the list after pay day on Monday. Otherwise I'm not that fastidious and I'll do things as and when. Otherwise, the dog is getting better at hopping in and out. And I've found this picture of the old Lupo and the Polo side by side at my parents' house. AWWW!
  45. 1 point
    I had those Hankooks on my Mk4 Golf - Awesome tyres, even worked pretty well in snow Definitely timing belt as soon as - especially if oil has been poured all over the timing belt end of the engine - in fact I would whip off the upper cam belt cover and check the state of the belt felling teeth for softness, engine oil breaks down timing belts...don't ask how I know.
  46. 1 point
    Good call on the other bits. That door strap mounting must be really annoying. Is it the little bracket on the A pillar or the door side? It'd make me scream. But I am just a tad fastidious. I'd be very interested to see what you think of that manual. I've never found (a good) one for the Lupo. Also, don't forget brake fluid, gearbox oil and power steering fluid (only you are really pedantic!). What condition is the subframe, rear beam, front sills, rear arches, roof channels, power steering pipe joins, brake pipes and springs? They can rust. Time for some waxoyl?
  47. 1 point
    I always replace bushes when I get a new car if there is no paperwork to show they've been done recently. I've got poly ones on the shocks, front arb and rear axle and they've really tightened the car up. Mine had new stock wishbone bushes just before I bought the car so I'll leave them alone for a while. May as well change the alternator belt when the cambelt is done.
  48. 1 point
    Well, what can I say. Big thumbs, a small phone and a lunch break that ended about 7 minutes earlier can result in typing errors 🙃. Anyway, closer inspection in the light of day revealed that there's 4 different tyres on the car, so I'll get a new set asap. At least they're all 195/50 R15 so that's what I'll go for again. In other news, more things are revealing themselves: The wiper switch does only partially work. Something metallic is rattling around under the dashboard. Somewhere near the vents/radio in the middle I reckon. The passenger door catch strap doesn't make the clacking noise because the mount has snapped off Standing around in traffic on Caversham bridge this morning the temperature gauge dropped all the way down. It seemed to work again after a quick pit stop at Tesco. Dodgy sensor or electrical connection maybe? However that's all part of the deal when buying a 16 year old car with 117000 miles on the clock. I shall buy a Haynes manual and get to work. Any recommendations re. parts supplier? Maybe I'll document the process this time. The actually important bits of the car feel rock solid and watching matey boy in his 3 series convertible several times trying but failing to get away from me between Pangbourne and Streatley was absolutely excellent fun earlier this evening. Mwahaha!
  49. 1 point
    Finally got round to fitting subframe and welding captive nut in place, just need to clean up welds, put on some bodysealant and paint..
  50. 1 point
    If you was racing on a track then i feel sorry for you! But if you was on the public road. GOOD
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