Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/11/2021 in all areas

  1. Just been MOT'd for another year, failed initially on a stuck front caliper which i replaced and weirdly the D bar on whiteline rear arb that goes around the rear beam was touching the fuel tank so there was a risk of it damaging it so that's had to come off! Any one else had that issue? Actually been having thoughts of getting rid recently, but I don't know if i could do it to myself! Here's a recent picture anyway
    1 point
  2. Not updated in a while, recently moved, so been abit busy. So the lupos mot was due 14 april and when I got the coilovers fitted by my friend, he mentioned it needed two front tyres soon.looked at the date stamp and they were 2009 on all 4 😅 so figured I'd replace all 4, with it being used in nice weather now, it has a garage to go into when I've cleared it out.I went with nankang ar-1s Passed the mot And today gave it a thorough clean
    1 point
  3. Update: Just did another different Lupo with exactly the same symptoms. All you can hear is the relay clicking, but nothing happens when you press the window switches. Another easier solution... Once I removed the slider/cable/rail/motor assembly thing, I pulled the motor out, separating that plastic drive spline from the cable drum (that pulls the window up or down). I thought, "I wonder what will happen if I plug it in now, without the cable assmbly attached to it?". It worked. Yes, the motor worked perfectly. Up, down, start, stop. Perfect. Must be jammed tracks/cable? Assembled it again, and the damn thing carried on working as if nothing had happened. Very odd. Put it back in the door, this time with glass clamped down. It worked again. Normally. Not slow or stiff. Normal. Back out again. I needed to know why. Then I noticed that the plastic spline gear thing that the motor rotor drives, was slightly warped. The central spline was running at an angle, presumably where it was held shut for ages, as most of the time the passenger window is never used. The only reason it worked again is that when I reassembled it, the splines were in a different position (by pure chance), so there was no angled stress. Then it hit me. The slight spline shaft angle acts a lock, preventing the cable drum from turning once there's some tension on it- which there will be once the motor drives the window hard up against its stop (at the top). Solution: Pull everything out of the car as before. Separate the motor from the cable drum. Don't move the window sliders at all. Mark the white plastic splined drive cog (that I've marked 'up' and 'down' in the pic). Run the motor so the plastic worm gear spline drive is 180 degrees out before reassembly. All sorted. The new position should, over the next 20 years mean the thing will slowly unwarp... It should carry on working perfectly now, asssuming the rest of the system holds out. Yay!
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.