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  1. I have both! I can't part with my Lupo, it's part of the family now, so not going anywhere! But I needed a new daily, so I bought a 2012 High Up! from the dealer I work for. Came fully loaded, it had 7.5k on the clock when I got it. My son now owns it as his first car and now has 75k and has been amazingly reliable. Fun car to drive, especially on 17'' rims and factory sports suspension, you can chuck it into bends and have a right laugh! The time came and it was paid off, but the intention was always to give it to my son. I thought I'd done a 5 year HP thing, but it was on a 4 year, so as soon as I found that out, I knew what I wanted. I test drove our demo Up! GTI when it first arrived (on garage plates and not even registered!) and decided it was similar enough to the Lupo in terms of fun. So I asked my mate in sales if they had any, and sure enough, they'd ordered one for stock that was due in within a few weeks. Tornado red 3 door with a black roof, beats sound system, cruise control, parking sensors and rear view camera, pretty much everything I wanted bar auto lights and wipers, but I could live with that. I kept it standard for a while, but I found that as an everyday car, it was lacking a bit of performance, especially the higher up you get in the rev range. Over 5k revs, you can really feel the power drop on a standard map. So I took her to a friends garage that does APR remaps and had the stage one map put on her. Wow! Total transformation. It now revs to the red line without fuss, pulls like a train and still gives me 55mpg+ everyday. I've added a Forge intake, Forge dump valve and the VW Racingline turbo elbow, I reckon she's got to be making 145-150bhp now easily. I love the noise of the dump valve too, really catches people out when they walk past! Next mods are going to be an exhaust and coilovers, I'm thinking of trying the Lupo Whiteline rear ARB as well. It handles quite well for a standard car, but does roll a bit in corners. The seats could be a bit more supportive for enthusiastic driving, but they are comfortable on long journeys. I'd love to find a set of Polo GTI front seats to see if they'd fit one-day. It ticks all my boxes as a daily, I bought it new in April 2019 and I've covered nearly 48k of fun happy miles. It's not the Lupo, but it feels similar and has the smile factor like the Lupo. It doesn't feel as special as the Lupo, and lets be honest, I doubt any manufacturer will ever go to town on a small car like VW did with the Lupo GTI ever again. Side by side they're similar in a lot of ways, and I love my Up nearly as much as I do my Lupo, so it's another car I'm planning on keeping. The Up is a far easier car to make faster as it's turbo'd already, but I still prefer the Lupo. It just has something about it that I love.
    10 points
  2. Well, as Frank aka @mk2 has asked how things are with the Lupo now I've had it a few months, here goes: I am absolutely and totally in love with the teeny tiny Volkswagen! To be a bit more specific: I'm driving around everywhere with a big grin on my face, possibly going a tiny bit faster than what would be sensible for someone my age. It's brilliant fun to just not slow down at all for roundabouts (However, the dog would probably disagree with this) The little car is bloody fast. At the same time it's also comfortable. The noise it makes when you put your foot down is absolutely hilarious. The build quality is outstanding (The 03 reg E46 BMW I used to have with 30000 miles less was in a considerably worse state) I like the stealth-factor of the Lupo Gti, as in most people just see a little shopping car but you get an appreciative nod from some people (mostly blokes in their 40ies who recognise what it is and are still a bit sad that the girlfriend insisted on buying a Mini Cooper back in 2003). Regarding this particular Lupo Gti, I appreciate that it is completely original spec. floor mats and everything, with only 2 previous owners who appear to have looked after it reasonably well, although there are signs that it suffered at times from a ham-fisted mechanic. It is by no means in perfect condition, e.g. the interior generally and the door cards particularly are somewhat scruffy, but then it's 16 years old, so fair enough really. I was relieved to see that when we had it "flying" in the garage, everything underneath looks in good shape apart from a little bit of surface rust here and there. Messing about with jacks and ramps and axle stands is always a bit tense though I have to say. Things I've done so far: 4 new tyres: Immense improvement. I can definitely recommend the Hankook Ventus Evo 2 tyres. 2 new window winder switches driver's side New oil and filter, air filter, pollen filter, spark plugs. Cleaned throttle body and cleared adaptations. Windscreen wipers part 1: The part of the column switch that holds the stalk in position had broken off, so had to be replaced. In the process of doing that, taking the airbag off, I ripped the plug off the clock spring cable. So I had to replace the clock spring too. D'oh! Windscreen wipers part 2: At some point, the linkage from the wiper motor to the driver side wiper had come apart and whoever repaired it put it all back together upside down. Obviously this caused insufficient shuddering wipers and a really annoying rattle. It also bashed into the plenum chamber cover with every wipe and completely destroyed that. New wiper blades of course. 3rd brake light / rear spoiler: Matey next door pointed out to me that the 3rd brake light does not work. So I took the spoiler off and discovered that there was quite a bit of moisture inside, but the main reason was that it was not connected to anything. The plug was missing, just 2 blanked off cables with a bit of masking tape wrapped around them going nowhere. This does cause some doubt about the latest MOT test. However I tested the led unit and it worked. I put everything back together, thinking I'll chance it with the rubber seal around the led unit and fingers crossed. So of course when there was torrential rain for several days at the beginning of October a substantial amount of water collected inside the spoiler and caused havoc with the electrics. The alarm went off 3 times during one night. To not cause more grief for my neighbours I left it unlocked for the rest of the night, hoping the rain would put any casual car thief off. Luckily I was then able to leave it in the neighbours garage next night to dry everything out again. A little bit of clear silicone sealant together with the rubber seal seems to have sorted it. At least so far. Aux belt, Cam belts and water pump: While it's not very difficult, it is a big job and it seemed to go on and on for ever. By the time I was already well fed up with tinkering with engines, it looked like half my car was still in bits on the garage floor. I'm not gonna write it all up, there's a very good guide on the forum already, but here are a few pictures: Things that need sorting: The dreaded door strap issue. Check out @mk2's post on the topic here: https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/106783-everyone-with-a-lupo-or-arosa-important-door-strap-info/ Actually replace the wonky coolant temperature sensor with the new one that's been lying around on the window sill in the living room for a while. Find out what exactly it is that causes the car to lock itself again and set the alarm off if the ignition is not switched on quick enough after unlocking. Find out why the air con doesn't work Wheel centre VW badge: Anybody got an idea where I can get my hands on one? Things that I'm sort of thinking about maybe doing at some point in the future: I mentioned that it is nice that the car is completely original, I'd definitely prefer grey door cards to the red ones. I also quite like the idea of swapping the front seats for a pair of Recaros from a Mk4 Golf Gti. Pop out rear windows: The only option on the Lupo 1.0 E I had many years ago were the pop out windows, and I absolutely loved them, because pop out rear windows are cool. So all in all there's plenty to keep me occupied and I'm a very happy boy! Finally, I'm thinking about the dilemma of using the Lupo Gti as "a car", meaning in this particular case: living outside, having an owner who is notorious for having a messed up car, transporting a muddy dog, etc. vs preserving it as a "modern classic" e.g. keeping it in a garage, keeping it clean, only using it when the weather is nice and so on. At the moment it functions very nicely as "a car", so I dunno about that one. Thank you for reading, folks! Frank, I hope this satisfies your curiosity 😀 Thoughts on any of this will be much appreciated...
    6 points
  3. Finally got round to taking a couple of photos. Had the car about 6 weeks and absolutely love it.
    5 points
  4. This is something I am very proud of, if everyone could give this PistonHeads video a watch it would be greatly appreciated, over the moon with how it turned out! Doing Lupo GTI owners proud👊🏼
    5 points
  5. How to…replace the front subframe on the Lupo - Most of this post was compiled from all the excellent advice in the many subframe threads in the forum and a lot of trial and error on my own Lupo SDI The subframes on the Lupo seem prone to rusting pretty catastrophically… it is often missed at MOT because the undertray and other parts can hide the worst of it I suppose. This guide is based on the SDI, the others are very similar but the positioning of certain components may be different (exhaust down pipe for example is at the back on the SDI…etc) In *theory* it's fairly straightforward, but seized bolts and broken captive nuts can add to your woes. Doing it on axle stands is also a bit more faffy than on a lift. (I did mine in the street on stands...) If I'd known all of this in advance I would guess I could probably have done it in a day or afternoon even. What replacement Subframe can I use? (Feel free to correct this...I think this summarises the compatibility) 1.0, 1.4, 1.7 SDI: From a Lupo or Arosa these are interchangeable with each other. You can also use a Polo 6N subframe. (even a Polo GTI subframe I believe?) TDI: Either a Lupo TDI, GTI or a Polo 6N2 TDI Subframe GTI: You need a Lupo GTI subframe (or a TDI perhaps?) Guide: Jack up car and remove both front wheels Remove under tray Give the 4 subframe bolts a good soaking in penetrating spray See if 4 subframe bolts can be cracked. Try more spray and leave overnight if necessary. Turn the nuts very carefully, support the subframe underneath and then see if you can feel the captive nuts staying in place (or not) when giving them a few turns. They are prone to not staying captive and if the bolt(s) just spins you will need to cut into the chassis and weld in new nuts or drop bolts. I refer you to these excellent threads for pictures and guides on how to do this if needed: - welding in drop bolts method - nice pics of the cut out parts in the chassis leg here You can also try applying downward pressure against the bolt with a pry bar inserted between the subframe and chassis, then attempting to turn the bolts again. Next couple of steps might not be necessary, I did them on my SDI to make access easier. (The next few steps might vary by engine type) Remove plastic inlet plenum box Remove 4 inlet plenum trumpets Remove inlet manifold Remove EGR valve (to give access to 1 bolt on the exhaust manifold!) Regardless of exactly how you get to it, you will need to drop the down pipe/front section of the exhaust from the exhaust manifold, as the subframe curves over the top of the exhaust below it. You do not necessarily need to remove it, lowering it a few inches will just about give you enough clearance to pass it over. Remove exhaust manifold (8 nuts and washers) (You could also remove the 4 bolts on the flexi pipe junction, but I couldn’t reach these, and often they are seized. (Use heat if necessary)) Remove the 2 rubber exhaust mounts. Greasing them may help them come off but I ended up having to cut mine... Drop the front pipe/flexi pipe down, support it on hangers or some chocks of wood. Obviously you want to avoid dropping the subframe on it and bending it/cracking a weak joint later… Disconnect the ball joints on either side Disconnect tie rod ends for more room if you like. (Optional) Loosen Anti-roll bar bushes and bolts. (Optional) Support the transmission if you are extra cautious like me (although it can be left to hang from the two engine mounts) Remove dogbone/transmission/rear engine mount. Two 16mm spanners required for the bolt going through the gearbox. There is not a lot of room here, I couldn’t get a socket on either side of the nut or bolt head. (I suppose you could remove the gear linkage bit though) Remove the upper transmission mount, just above/behind where the down pipe was (1* 16mm hex bolt). You can’t actually see it from the top if you are working from above, you’ll need a short extension bar and feel around to find it. This is connected via a small flat bar to the top of the gearbox. Support the weight of the steering rack on the passenger side with rope or ties. (Again, me being over cautious probably) The driver side is supported enough by the steering column union. Remove 4 steering rack bolts from beneath. (13mm hex). In theory the pair of mounting brackets should behave like “captive” nuts, but they often aren’t. (I had to cut/grind off the passenger side steering rack bolt heads as the nuts became free/spinning. At a glance it looks like you might be able to get a 13mm spanner in from the side to hold spinning nuts from above, but they are actually a weird octagonal shape so a socket/ring spanner won’t get any purchase.) Support the subframe with a jack. Remove 4 subframe big bolts. (18mm hex - 2* M12 x 1.5 x 80mm 2* M12 x 1.5 x 100mm) Lower subframe with 2 people or use jack and wood blocks. (Don’t drop it on the exhaust.) As you are doing this ensure the steering rack separates, but try not to let it sag too much. Manoeuver the subframe out by rotating and turning it towards front of car (It will come out in one piece with wishbones and anti-roll bar still attached with a bit of deft manoeuvring) Installation is reversal of removal. (Ha!) (unless you are welding drop bolts in or new captive nuts…) Squirting in some wax into the captive nut holes might be a good preventative measure to do here. When offering up the new/refurbished subframe to the chassis and steering rack, you essentially have 8 bolts that you need to marry up and align. I started with the biggest M12 bolts that go into the front of the chassis, then the two slightly shorter ones that go through the control arms. Then finally the steering rack ones. If there are ‘dirt marks’ to help you align the subframe back up, try and stick to these if possible. Be careful pushing the bolts back into the captive nuts if you are using these, ensure they ‘take’ and avoid knocking them out of their channel… Make sure everything removed is reinstalled and tightened. Use threadlock if reusing the bolts (yes, yes, you should use new ones ideally…) Have fun! Torque settings: (maybe forgo the extra quarter turns etc on the captive nut bolts if worried about further damage…) 4 main subframe bolts: 70 Nm (+ half a turn) 4 steering rack bolts: 30 Nm (M8 x 80mm if you need to replace) Refurbishing a salvage subframe: OEM part number is 6X0199315F Check for excessive corrosion, no point replacing an old one with similar problems Check for any missing captive nuts, or sheared off bolts present. Captive nuts should be present: 1) On the two control arm mount points, 2) On the dog bone/rear transmission mount - x3 - if any of them break, you can pre-attach a new engine mount using normal nuts, there's enough room to reach in with a long 13mm spanner. 4) Upper transmission mount (x2). Again not the end of the world if captive nuts missing or broken, can be replaced. 5) ARB mounts and the retaining metal clips. Check it isn't bent or warped! I didn't shot blast it, but just rubbed down with degreaser, wire brush, some coarse sand paper, then did couple of coats of red oxide primer, followed by Hammerite. Then spray Waxoyl in the insides thoroughly. With the amount of stuff that has to come off it’s a good opportunity to overhaul or clean up a lot of parts, inlet plenum for example, new control arms/ball joints if needed, replace the exhaust manifold gasket as well if you have removed the old one etc.
    5 points
  6. silver not my first choices but would happily have silver again.
    5 points
  7. Fully repaired and resprayed. just picked up a second set of original alloys for it so will hopefully be able to salvage 4 decent ones from 2 sets.
    5 points
  8. Here it is, as promised, the second instalment of my build thread, which explains how I was able to "drive" the car that shorted out and barely ran, home 25 miles. Following a viewing on Tuesday night and settling on a price to buy with the previous owner, the previous owner said we needed the vehicle out of his driveway by Sunday.Simple enough, huh? Not really. Sure, I could have talked to some recovery companies and gotten it resolved that way, but it would have involved more costs, which I did my best to avoid as much as possible. I therefore started to think of a plan for driving the car back home. After several nights of trying to figure out what to do and numerous discussions with my father, we finally came up with a plan.The plan of action was as follows: We would basically be driving on whatever power the battery had left when we tried to drive it and get as far as we could with the alternator disconnected (to prevent it from shorting out). I would have a new battery in the boot of my other car, ready to swap it out on the side of the road if necessary. In an effort to rule out as many issues as possible, we also made sure we had some form of breakdown essentials, such as a general tool bag with items like spanners, screwdrivers, and other necessities inside, along with tow ropes and jump leads also being in the boot. When Sunday finally arrived, we packed the tools into my other car and drove to pick up the car. We finished the paperwork, got the keys and set out on our journey without realising what might be ahead for my father and I. The car started without any issues after we disconnected the fan and air conditioning unit and turned off every electrical device to save energy.Less than three miles later, the car fully died on the roundabout. We hastily pushed it across the roundabout, up the road, and into the first side road in order to try Plan B. Initially, we attempted jump leads, but to no luck; the car remained completely dead and did not even have any lights on the dash. We put the new battery on, and she started up again. Since time wasn't on our side, we unplugged the alternator as soon as we were positive the new battery was the answer. We did this just in case the alternator continued to drain power. The car drove flawlessly aside from the minor mishap; obviously, the suspension was incredibly bouncy and the front valance was grounding out on everything, but these were both known issues that were high on my list to fix. Fortunately, we only had one breakdown and made it home, which was somewhat of a relief. An extra bonus was that it didn't have to be transported home by a rescue vehicle! Here's another photo from the day I brought it home. I'll explain everything later. Now for the exciting part—actually working on the car! Instagram : Hector.Bishop.Penn
    4 points
  9. 🎄🎄🎄Seasons greetings! 🎄🎄🎄
    4 points
  10. Just helped out someone over the WE with their rough running tdi, having come to me after spending over £500 with vdubs, who didn't diagnose it right! I said I'd be happy to stand up in court to tell them them what i thought of their 'professional' skill level. Huh! They changed the EGR valve. Wrong! I reckon @Rich, @Blue Loop, @Skajme or @RAB would be able to diagnose it in under 5 seconds. Took me about 30... Symptoms were obviously misfiring, running on only two cyls. until warmed up. Started ok, and had a loud tapping noise- really loud with the air inlet duct removed. VCDS showed a big injection quantity imbalance between cylinders at idle- trying to add fuel to cyl 1 and pull from 2 & 3. Obviously air starved on no.1 with the inlet valve not fully opening. It's amazing how vdub ECUs actually measure the rotation time between injection pulses and trim the injection timing to achieve a smooth idle. When a power stroke has more push than the other cyls, it obviously takes less time to rotate. So it adds fuel to the weaker cylinder and pulls from the others to try and even out the power strokes. Neat idea. This 2001 Lupo had 165k miles on it, with a decent history... Down to the breakers yard to grab a camshaft (and a tappet) from a 9N Polo, which was pretty much like new still. It always seems to be the lobe next to the pulley that goes, having seen a few worn cams at the breakers. The engine is at a slight angle, with the gearbox end being slightly lower. Straight forward job- just loosen the timing belt and tensioner. Pop off the valve cover and bearing caps. Pull the dodgy tappet. Pop off the pulley, swap over everything and back together again. You don't even need to remove the high pressure fuel pump or adjust the injection timing as everything is precision made.
    4 points
  11. Sounds like you may need a new thermostat outlet, they are made with a solid piece of plastic that runs across the middle of the outlet that a pin on the thermostat pushes onto when its opening. Even with a new thermostat fitted, if the plastic piece is missing, it has nothing to push the pin onto, so the thermostat can't open
    4 points
  12. Hi all. So i thought i'd put this here. My Lupo Gti has recently been featured on JayEmm on cars. Link is below. The review went very well.
    4 points
  13. Some progress: The replacement towing eye cover has been sprayed and installed. Thanks to @Rickie all 4 wheel centre caps are in place. (One is the wrong colour, but hey ho, nevermind) Last weekend, I finally replaced the clutch slave cylinder, which should stop the break fluid leak. Fingers crossed! And yesterday, it had a full valet done. It’s so clean inside that I contemplated taking my shoes off before getting in…
    4 points
  14. Finally got around to getting a set of wheels refurbished with new toyo proxes too. Still standard apart from the KAM suspension kit but still have the original set too. I think it’s finally finished! still only 66k on the clock
    4 points
  15. My wife's car, owned from six months old ex demo.........will never be sold
    4 points
  16. So I've finally got the car back... updates to follow
    4 points
  17. Very happy to tell you that my car has been SOLD. It is planned to be for a son's 17th Birthday. It's life will continue! It is now in Newport but I will see it around because the lad's father works in my town. The family have had many vw vehicles so they knew of the Lupo and by chance one of the family looked up ClubLupo. They tracked me down as I was on their doorstep so to speak. I wasn't glad to see it go but very happy that it has found a deserving new home! Thankyou to all of you, in ClubLupo, who bothered to post me advice over the last week, it was much appreciated.
    4 points
  18. After weekend of messing about, my window is working again. But I don't think I fixed anything at all. Ok, so one of my Lupos decided recently that the passenger side electric window wasn't going to play any more. It was shut and didn't want to open. All it did is make a click sound every time I pressed the down (or up) switch. This happened with both the driver's and passenger's side window control switches. My first thought was that the Central Convenience Module (CCM) had thrown a tantrum as is so often the case in our Lupos. It affects central locking, window behaviour and interior lights (plus a few other bits). Locks were ok, as was the inside light. So I thought I'd check if I could control the windows without using the control switches- by using the door locks. There's a handy feature on all electric window Vdubs where if you want to open all the electric windows at the same time without getting into the car, you simply insert key into driver's door lock and turn it to the unlock position and hold it there for five seconds. (To close them all you lock it for 5 secs.). The driver's window opened no problem. Passenger side; Nothing. By the way, this fault is different to the really common wire rope snapping, the glass clamp breaking loose or the track or pulleys getting jammed (often caused by trying to work the windows when they've been glued shut with ice (or frost). Sticky or slow windows just need some silicone oil sprayed onto the felt window tracks to help them slide more easily. So off with the door cards. Carefully cut or peel the waterproofing membrane away from the top only (to be reused- essential!). Reach in and unplug the motor connector (not easy). Tape the glass up to the top of the door so it doesn't drop down. Reach up and slightly loosen (but don't remove) the two 10mm glass clamp bolts (also not easy). Gently unhook the plastic cable 'X' stay from the door. Unbolt the five 10mm bolts/nuts and carefully remove the entire assembly. So far all pretty standard stuff. At this point you could spend money and just get another new assembly, swap over and reassemble. The following pics I took while working show what you need to do to sort out a clicking motor that doesn't want to work. It's all basically just cleaning and testing. I pulled everything to pieces, cleaned a LOT of dust off the PCB and the two sensors, wiped bits of metal off the magnet ring and washed any carbon brush material off the PCB using brake and clutch cleaner fluid. Then put it all back together again. I couldn't find any faults. My guess is that the bits of metal stuck to the magnet ring messed with the output pulses and carbon brush dust, which conducts electricity partly shorted out the components on the PCB. The relay also appeared to work just fine- you can't test it without removing it from the PCB because 12V goes backwards into the circuit (which would damage it). Trickiest bits are unsoldering the PCB without damaging anything and then putting the brushes back in. An extra pair of hands is useful there. I suspect that during factory assembly, they use a plastic 'loading ring', sliding the rotor in place while a thin rigid plastic tube holds back the brushes. The rest of reassembly is the reverse of dismantling. The easy way out would be to simply swap the motor/gearbox over which was my first choice. But they are unique to Lupos/Arosas; I couldn't find one anywhere (for a reasonable price).
    4 points
  19. Hi, Here we have my Soft Blue Lupo Sport, Purchased in May 2023 with three previous owners and a comprehensive service history folder, this Volkswagen Lupo Sport was a rare find. With a very sensible 63000 miles on the odometer, a great base to start building my version of the Lupo Sport, known as the Lupo Sport+! The car was bought with a few known issues. The first, most significant issue, was that fact it would short out and shut off after running for about thirty seconds. This prevented us from test driving the car and limited the amount of time we could listen to it run before it need to be switched off. Second, the battery was not charging. I was not entirely certain that this was due to a malfunctioning alternator, but the seller stated that he thought so. However, he did not explain how all these electrical problems had occurred, only revealing that one day, when he was started the car on the driveway, it cut out. Upon attempting to restart the car, it wouldn’t restart and the fuses above the battery were blown. Another problem, which we were unaware of at the time, was the "Control Module" that was tucked behind the front bumper in the near side front corner. This module controlled the air conditioning system (yes, it came with air conditioning) and the fuse box above the battery, which is why the air conditioning wasn't working and the fuses were blowing. Another consequence of the faulty "Control Module" was the fan running nonstop. The car mechanically needed a replacement water pump and cambelt since they were due a few months previous. The engine made a "Tappy" noise, indicating that the hydraulic lifters needed to be replaced soon as well. The clutch was also past its best, meaning it was difficult to shift into gear and had a very low bite. Other than that, I thought the car mechanically was okay (Oops, all will be explained later) In terms of appearance, the car was rough but honest; it had more lacquer peel than I knew what to do with it, not a single straight panel, numerous scrapes down the near side from the old lady hitting the garage wall when she was reversing it in, but on the plus side, it was completely rust free and had never had any bodywork done, so I could see exactly what I was dealing with rather than having hidden surprises. Furthermore, where there was still lacquer on the paint, it was extremely swirly, and the entire car had faded to the point where it was no longer the same colour. Despite all these flaws I've described above, I was generally pleasantly impressed with how clean the car was, the sills were very straight and as mentioned above, it was rust free, which for a 21 year old car was really impressive, the interior was entirely stock but rather dirty. A de-baffled original rear backbox and TA Technix coilovers, which were lowered to an absurdly low height, were two modifications made to the car, however fortunately, the original suspension and backbox had been kept by the previous owner and were part of the sale. Despite all of these issues, I could still tell that the car was very well-maintained, had a clean service history, had low miles, and had been in a garage for 20 years, which there was something to be said for that. More to come soon; I'll write about how we transported it home next, but for now, enjoy this photo I took of it on the day I brought it home. Thank you for reading my build thread; I would be happy to answer any questions. Instagram : Hector.Bishop.Penn
    3 points
  20. I thought so too and now it’s up to me to do so…
    3 points
  21. So Sophie made this nearly colour matched keychain to go with (this was just a sample piece, but will make another better version soon). Next it was time for a big clean....a very big clean! And then it was time to clay Might have gone overboard with tape...Or not enough? Lets see if we can bring some gloss back to this LD1B! Poor photo as I don't have a good light, but before on the right, after on the left (excuse the dust) All in all, I think I finished the clean around 9:30pm. I used Meguiars 105 & 205, then gave it a coat of Auto Finesse Graphene Liquid Wax by hand (was already nearly 9pm at this point, didn't want to annoy the neighbors anymore). So here are some photos the following morning. I think next it'll be rub strips off to get behind them fully and one needs to be restuck properly.
    3 points
  22. Hi Everyone just thought I’d say hello.. I’ve picked up an accident damaged Lupo GTI today on a 52 plate. with only 1 owner from new having covered 63k miles (you might have seen it advertised on eBay) As you can see it needs various front end parts which I’ve managed to mostly source (even the headlight!) however I could do with a O/S wing if anyone has one let me know! Comes with the original documentation, service books and maunuals from new, it even has all 3 keys (1 plastic) so, once repaired it should be a nice appreciating modern classic.. Thanks for reading! simon
    3 points
  23. STL files for the jets/nozzles, gimbals and caps. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5569787?fbclid=IwAR1_52p8TcCV3SPz9SoNtre0J2ylqeu1Swjj_k9V62XPS86sxpkpKDMD5Is OEM parts 3D scanned and released by a chap on the Lupo GTI Facebook group. I have a 3D printer but opted to have a set of the jets/nozzles professionally printed in nylon by 3D People for £35. Perfect replacements.
    3 points
  24. Early start this morning. Three trains later and I picked the car up from the dealership around midday. Paperwork etc completed and just back home after 130 miles on a mixture of fast A roads and motorways. Really comfortable to drive and incredibly economical. Managed to achieve a combined 58mpg on the journey home and I wasn't hanging around although I was obeying the speed limits. Need to give it a good clean and will then get some pictures up. 😍
    3 points
  25. Good and bad news on my hunt for an Up GTI. So last Thursday I travelled 250 miles round trip to see the Up GTI which I had put a deposit on at a VW Dealership. The car unfortunately was not as described bodywork wise and I decided not to proceed. I did drive the car and really liked the driving position etc. There was a lot which reminded me of my Lupo GTI's. So the hunt continued and I have been to see a VW AUC 21 plate, 3 door in Tornado red today. Black roof, cruise and park, light and sight and height adjustable passenger seat, 1 owner. Deal done and picking it up in a couple of weeks. Can't wait and pictures to follow.
    3 points
  26. There are plenty of threads on this but here's a summary How To guide The gearbox selector shaft runs into the gearbox at the base of the gearbox next to the dogbone mount. The O-ring seal that prevents oil from leaking out here usually fails at some point on the Lupo/Arosa 085 gearbox and similar ones used on the Polo. You can still get the OEM part no. 085 311 113, but there are plenty of aftermarket replacement parts as well. In hindsight I'd consider leaving this job if the oil leak isn't significant and just keep on top of topping up the gearbox oil. (Edit: The more I think about this, the more I think it is actually worth doing as preventative maintenance. There's a few of us on here now convinced the gear box maintenance and thicker oil change is what makes the boxes last. So many threads of folk looking for replacement boxes, which are hard to find, and will only get harder to come by!) Some people are lucky and the seal pops out easily in a 20 minute job, with no need to drain the gearbox oil first even. Mine was an hour long ordeal as the seal was so welded in after 20 years. Draining the gearbox oil made it a lot easier for me, but YMMV. Otherwise once you pierce the old seal you might be fighting a steady flow of gearbox oil getting everywhere. You might as well change the gearbox oil if it hasn't been done for a long time. Tools: Picks & hook set, or two small woodscrews, or a small drill. 17 mm hex bit 17 mm spanner 10mm hex socket Funnel + hose Method: Gearbox oil drain Place the car up on axle stands or ramps (ramps are a lot easier for this) Remove the undertray if fitted Locate the gearbox drain and fill holes. These are two plugs that take the 17mm hex bit. The fill hole faces the bumper and is just next to the starter motor and reverse light sensor. The drain plug faces the passenger wheel and is right at the base of the gearbox. Make sure you can slacken off the fill hole first of all. If you can't get this off you'd have to fill via one the sensor holes. But you need some way of refilling the box - don't drain it without checking this first! Now take out the fill plug. Place a container to catch the oil and use the 17mm hex bit to take out the drain plug. Let the oil drain. Selector seal replacement Place the car into first gear Remove the gear linkage mechanism that is connected to the shaft by a 10 mm hex head bolt. It should slide off the shaft and then tuck it away as best you can for access/leverage later. Don't touch any other of the other bolts/screws as these are for adjusting the linkage itself. The VW workshop manual recommends wrapping the shaft in some insulation tape to protect it at this stage. Now the joy begins. You need to get the old seal off without damaging/scoring the shaft itself. There are several methods people use: Screw in two self-tapping screws either side of the seal, then pull out the seal with the screws and some pliers. Drill a very small pilot hole (carefully!) to get a hook or pick in. Pierce the seal with a screwdriver or bradawl, then lever it off with various hooks and picks. (This is what worked for me). Pull the seal off, clean up the opening and shaft (remove the tape), add a drop of oil to the new seal and slide it back on. Press it firmly into place as much as you can. It should sit flush with the gearbox although sometimes you find they have been pushed in a bit further and sit a bit recessed. A 17mm spanner can be used to lever it in and firm it down. Re-attach the gear linkage mechanism to the shaft with the 10mm bolt. Check that all the gears go into place with the gearstick. Personally, I could't see how to get screws in there, the seal is very narrow and I didn't have small enough woodscrews). There is really not a lot of room to drill in at the right angle either. It's made trickier by the fact the old seals usually have a metal ring in them, so you aren't just trying to pierce the rubber but a bit of metal too. The metal ring doesn't run right up to the edge of the seal though, eventually I managed to get a small pick between the metal ring and the inner side of the seal, right next to the shaft, and lever out from here with much difficulty. My cheapo pick set probably meant the picks themselves were softer than the shaft, which avoided scratching it. (You really want to avoid damaging the shaft!) That's a lot of description; again, some folk manage to pop the seal out in 20 minutes with no bother, others like me find it a nightmare to get out. There's no way of knowing until you start the job. Refill the gearbox With the new seal in place, and the drain plug fitted back on, place a hose + funnel into the fill hole, and top up the gearbox until it starts to dribble out (this is the only way to know that it is full). Oil choice. 75w-90 is the official recommended oil. Some of us on here like to replace it with thicker 80w-90 to potenitally increase the longevity of the box. Fill plug back on, and you are good to go.
    3 points
  27. Yeah, my green SDI passed on Saturday. But only just. The rear brake compensator had stuck, so on the brake tester, it indicated that the back brakes were faulty (like only half power- would not lock up). But on handbrake, they worked just fine and locked. The tester confidently said "yup, both your rear cylinders are shot. You need new ones. We can do it for you today...". So I "humbly" suggested that it may actually just be a stiff compensator lever or stuck plunger. And that it'll be obvious when up on the ramp for the underside inspection. So once up in the air I had a look, asked if he had a hammer that I could borrow for a moment- gave the housing a thump, mentioning that may have sorted it. Once back down, he tested it again and all good. "In 30 years, never seen that before. Know a bit about cars then?". I just smiled and thanked him, through gritted teeth. So he was going to change both rear cylinders (wrong) and bill me for £175. Yeah. And the compensator would have probably reset anyway when bleeding everything. SMH. Get a sump plug with built-in O ring. You'll never need a crush washer ever again...
    3 points
  28. Hello! Recently became the proud new owner of an Anthracite Grey Lupo GTi It's in a really good condition for it's age (03') & mileage (120k), testament to the previous 3 owners, looking to do a few bits to bring it as near to factory finish as I can, & maybe put in a few subtle mods along the way. I've had various VAG cars in the past, and both my partner & her dad also have Lupo GTi's. We've worked on Lupo's in our spare times for the best part of 5 years now, so not much we've come across that we've not been able to resolve. More than happy to help out with other members questions etc where I can!
    3 points
  29. Its about time i posted an update on this. Since the last post the following has happened: The old CV have been replaced with new SKF items, the quality seems pretty decent so hopefully will last a year or two between getting replace. I have had some plates made up to strengthen some Febi lower arms, whilst seam welding and strengthening as per the lupo cup cars, hopefully this will stop this type of failure in the future. I have also fitted a front anti roll bar from a stock lupo, 18mm i think, the 22mm bar from the gti felt too stiff and was quite understeery, i liked the feeling of no from arb but after seeing this picture realise i needed to sort out the roll. Some new wilwoods were fitted, this option let me change some spacers if i want to run 14's for dirt rallys, not convinced on the pedal feel yet but we shall see. I 3D printed some brake ducts aswell and painted these to try and keep brake temps down, a lick of paint and i think they look acceptable. I have done a sprint, autotest, a hill climb and a dirt rally since and the car has been brilliant and very competitive, i even managed to get a fastest stage time at the dirt rally against some faster cars.
    3 points
  30. There's a little button thing, just inside the filler. When you screw in the cap, the inner edge of the cap presses against it allowing air to circulate between the top of the tank and the filler. I've fitted a small length of rubber tube between the edge and the button thing, so it's permanently pressed. Means you can add about an extra 7 L of fuel... Also easier to accurately measure MPG, as brimming it with the button up gives false fill readings. Brim it, then press. The fuel disappears!
    3 points
  31. It's called Cedar Green, quite a rare colour, I know of only 2 local to me
    3 points
  32. I once considered selling my GTI for a Mk6 Golf GT, drove it and it was nothing like the Lupo, not as much fun, and even with more power, didn't feel anywhere near as nippy. I've owned my GTI since 2004 and I never want to part with her. They just make you smile, no matter how bad your day has been, just a fun car to drive and own. Plus the rarity of them makes people wonder what it is, have I spent stupid amounts of money to put a bodykit on a Lupo?! And then you leave them for dead from the lights, worth every penny!
    3 points
  33. Some pics of first South/Central get together, only 3 this time although we checked out other car parks in case 🙂 Personally, celebrated the first meet by hitting a milestone within yards of car park ............ Nice to meet you guys @mk2& @bernd and chat about Lupo's 😍
    3 points
  34. I'm pretty new to the forum, just wondering if a meet has been arranged before? It would be great to get a decent amount of Lupo's in one place.
    3 points
  35. I got a 70,000km aluminum door model Lupo GTI. The Lupo had a fault error in the ECU, and a leak from the rear spoiler caused water to collect in the battery pan in the boot room. I used VCDS to clear the error, charge the battery, change the oil, adjust the air pressure and test drive. The drive shaft boots broke, grease splattered, and the engine check lamp turned on again. I identified all the faulty parts of the car and ordered the parts.
    3 points
  36. It could also be that the slave cylinder is faulty or needs bleeding (it's a hydraulic clutch on a tdi). If the clutch doesn't fully disengage when changung gear, shifts can require more stick effort, which like @weslangdon says can cause the syncros to wear. Usually the little teeth on the brass ring become rounded off- easy fix/swap, but gearbox needs to be opened up to do it. Same gearbox as the tdi 9N polo if that helps...
    3 points
  37. Got the door strap bolt and bushing put right just now. The threads on the bottom of the bolt cleaned up fine, the hole on the bottom is egged so we will see... The threads on the top of the bolt and the hole they thread in are a bit dodgy but I think they will last. I found a Toyota nut in my bits bin that fits and has a lovely big shoulder on it so that will help the egged out bit. Then I turned up a bushing from scrap brass. All together now and quiet as a mouse in the church pantry. In fact quieter than it was when we bought the car!
    3 points
  38. not quite 10 years but ive now had mine 7 years
    3 points
  39. Just been MOT'd for another year, failed initially on a stuck front caliper which i replaced and weirdly the D bar on whiteline rear arb that goes around the rear beam was touching the fuel tank so there was a risk of it damaging it so that's had to come off! Any one else had that issue? Actually been having thoughts of getting rid recently, but I don't know if i could do it to myself! Here's a recent picture anyway
    3 points
  40. It is great to see my decision not to break the car and give it a chance to survive will be success full. Please spend the time to make the rings it will make the car an enjoyable toy. Costs are neglectable. Hope to see the right one soon again at least for some nice pictures.
    3 points
  41. Hi I’m now thinking thinking of selling my Lupo GTI .. never thought I’d write that. Totally standard 121k miles 1 previous owner from new17 years VW main dealer service full history Subframe, removed blasted, coated.Exhaust replaced 4 years ago with genuine VW one Rear suspension replaced with genuine standard Original matsNew OE bushesNew wishbones Tracking just doneService and cambelt/water pump this year.New spark plugsCloth interior2 keys including original tag from factoryInterior pics coming £4500Lovely, lovely car. It’s not perfect but it’s honest and clean. I’m just thinking I don’t want to put more miles on it. Would prefer it to go to an enthusiast.
    3 points
  42. Ever since @bernd highlighted a problem on his door stap mounting point (it cracked and is pretty much not repairable- see this thread https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/106696-after-the-longest-wait-i-bought-a-lupo-gti-hurrah/page/2/ ), I have found it on almost every Lupo/Arosa I've checked. Chances are your's is about to fail. Worth a quick look. Anyway, there's a nut which is spot welded to the lower part of the mounting which breaks and falls off. The check strap carries on working, so you'd never notice the problem. The trouble is that the bolt connecting to the swivel part of the strap is now only anchored at the top, so the top part flexes (too much) and then cracks. The original Vdub idea I think is that the bolt is held rigid in place by the two threaded parts. The bolt must not move at all. I've checked my Lupos, and 2 of them had this problem. So I went to a breakers yesterday to get a couple of new bolts (the movement also grinds away the thread). Shock horror, at the breakers yard- all the lupos and Arosas had the exact same problem. Holy cow. It's a pain to fix, but here's some pics of what I mean. You can see that the lower nut was completely gone. It's a tiny little thing with so much stress on it. No wonder they fail. You can't just replace it with a simple bolt because the top hole is 2mm bigger than the lower one, which causes a side stress, which is why they crack. I had to mask everything so welding splatter didn't destroy everything. But I hope my two small tack welds onto that tiny nut hold. Not a simple quick fix...
    3 points
  43. I’m selling my pride and joy. A genuine UK Lupo GTI, registered 5th May 2005, in excellent condition with only 55k miles on the clock. In Reflex Silver, 6-speed, with factory fitted upgrades of air conditioning, heated front seats, and electric sunroof. The service book has 15 stamps – one for every year since new – either VW main dealer or VW specialist. Service record: - 2006 – 3,457 miles – VW - 2007 – 7,253 miles – VW - 2008 – 9,925 miles – VW - 2009 – 11,789 miles – VW - 2010 – 14,046 miles – VW - 2011 – 16,183 miles – VW - 2012 – 17,262 miles – VW - 2013 – 23,347 miles – VW specialist - 2014 – 26,884 miles – VW specialist - 2015 – 32,067 miles – VW - 2016 – 36,885 miles – VW - 2017 – 41,437 miles – VW specialist - 2018 – 43,931 miles** – VW specialist - 2019 – 49,579 miles – VW specialist - 2020 – 53,985 miles – VW specialist **Cambelt, tensioners and water pump replaced in 2018 at 43,931 miles MOT until July 2021 Engine and suspension as standard, unmodified. The following personal touches have been added during my ownership: - BBS RW001 alloys - 20mm H&R spacers on rear wheels - Cambridge rear lights - Pressed metal number plates - Alpine double din head unit with Bluetooth - Brushed stainless Lupo GTI inner door sill strips - Rear window tints (professionally done) - Honda stubby aerial - Polo 9N rear wiper arm I still have the following original parts: Bathurst alloys; rear lights; stereo. Plus, I also have brand new 5mm H&R spacers for the front wheels that were never fitted. I have paperwork for all MOT’s and services carried out during my ownership, plus receipts for personal touches and any maintenance works carried out. 2 original keys. I’ve really looked after this car, and I’ve loved owning it for the past 6 years. If my advert seems a bit wooden and matter of fact, it’s because I’m gutted to be selling it. The time has come for me to drive something I care a lot less about, something I can park anywhere without being anxious the entire time about what might happen to it whilst I’m gone, something a bit more spacious. The reason for sale is genuine, I’m expecting a baby. Thanks for looking, if you have any questions please message me. Location: Cornwall Price: £5750
    3 points
  44. Since I was last posting on this subject, I've acquired and fitted yet another Momo - this time my holy grail, mid-70s Prototipo 320. So I'm not sure which one you're now referring to?: 1) Original Gti retrimmed and with flat bottom 2) Plastic Lupo wheel (used during Gti wheel retrim) 3) Momo 320mm Jet Regards. David
    3 points
  45. I came across an injector cleaning by post service that I thought I would share: http://www.injectortune.co.uk/Injector_Cleaning.html I sent off my spare set of Gti injectors on Saturday and got them back special delivery Tuesday. They provide pre and post cleaning review of resistance, leak test, static and dynamic spray patterns and lastly flow: These were down on flow between 60 and 62cc after cleaning its bounced back to 66 to 67cc's - they are meant to flow 66 Also part of the service is new filters and seals - if in stock - and they return your old ones too Really pleased with the services - it seems this is a one man operation, the cost for 4 injectors and return special delivery was just short of £60
    3 points
  46. The coilovers said they would drop a bit after settling. Seems they have settled at this height. I'm happy with this considering this was the first attempt at setting the height and I haven't touched it since.
    3 points
  47. I'd say the colour thing is preference, for example I really dislike black cars. You justify my comment with your cunty comment.
    3 points
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