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Why not just take the springs off the car altogether? Try driving around without them, it's not like they do an important job anyway.

Changed my oil filter the other day and as I didn't knock up a How To last time, figured I would now. It's real easy on an SDI but worth running through this if you're a bit nervous or are not sure. There isn't much you can get wrong though and once you've done it once, it'll only take you half an hour next time, at most. The cheapest I've found a garage doing a change is £47, and that's using budget semi-synthetic oil. This way, you have a choice what you use and thanks to the recent Christmas offers on service parts and oil, this change cost me just £15! A decent saving I'd say!! 1. Take the car for a short drive, 5-10 miles should be enough, then let it idle on the drive for 10 minutes so it's nice and warm. 2. Get the car in the air. Chock the back wheels using something safer than wood... whoops. 3. Get a suitable container to catch the oil in. These oil drain pans are 'disposable' (I just cleaned them after) from the local trade shop (I suggest getting two, you'll see why later). Position one under the sump drain. Crack the sump plug using your ratchet tool, it's a 19mm socket if I remember rightly. Remove it slowly with two fingers. Let the sump plug drop in the drain pan, in my opinion, that's the best way of avoiding major spills rather than trying to move it away which tends to result in oil splashing over the drive and your hands. Wear gloves, oil is carcinogenic and it's bloody messy. I suggest letting it drain for at least 5 minutes, even though the majority of oil will be out within about 60 seconds. I put a bottle of Forte Flush in before this oil change, there were visible chunks of KFC dropping into my drain pan lol. 4. Move the now full drain pan somewhere away so you've got more space and you won't knock it. You need to remove the undertray to access the filter. There are two 10mm bolts near the bottom centre and two nuts, one on the upper left side and one upper right side. Remove all 4 and it should drop, although you might need to give it a pull. I didn't take a photo of this part, but it's pretty obvious really. 5. Locate the old oil filter and move your second clean drain pan under, save any unnecessary mess. Removing the filter can be a pain and as I don't have a proper tool. This time was particularly difficult! I had to use a chisel + mole grips + 2ft tommy bar to get enough leverege to turn it just enough so I could finish it off by hand. However, I've been advised that one of these is perfect : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-LEG-2-WAY-OIL-FUEL-FILTER-WRENCH-63-102MM-DUAL-DRIVE-REMOVAL-TOOL-REMOVER-/331096078052?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d16dd36e4 So I've bought one for next time. Sorry about the awful photos, but it's hard to take a photo one handed, upside down lol. 6. Wet the gasket on the new filter with oil and screw it on, hand tight will do. Refit the undertray, make sure each lip at the front overlaps correctly. Fish the sump plug out of the first oil drain pan and wipe it off. Officially, VW say replace these every oil change, but tbh, I change mine every couple of oil changes, maybe 2 or 3. I check the threads and I check the washer and if it looks okay, I put it back on. I'm yet to have one leak, touch wood, perhaps I'm pushing my luck. For peace of mind though, just change it, they're only a couple of quid off ebay. As far as I'm concerned though, so long as it drops in the oil drain pan, and you don't crossthread it, you'll be alright reusing it a couple of times. Drop it on the floor though? It's scrap. Keep one spare just in case. 7. You need 4.7 litres of oil. I use 5w40 fully synthetic conforming with 505.00 spec. Here's the VW recommendation: Now, seeing as I don't always replace the sump plug, I usually fill it on the ramps, let it settle, start it, leave it idling 5 minutes and check to see if there's any leakage from the sump plug. Obviously if you've fitted a new sump plug you don't need to worry. No doubt someone will tell me I shouldn't do this but I can't see why it's a problem and I've not experienced any issues yet. Once confirmed it's all okay, drop the car and you're good to go. Hope this is useful for anyone considering DIY'ing it, and don't forget to dispose of your waste oil properly.

So what's wrong with Vauxhalls old man, eh, EH!?!

My check engine light came on, on my 1.0L 2002 lupo. I scanned it and it told me it was the lambda sensor (apparently a common reason for the engine light to come on these cars) turns out there was a hose which had come out. The light has not come on since. Hope this helps

not posted one of mine for a while, this is her at her lowest to date :') she is a 2001 mk2 arosa 1.4 16v 100bhp sport current wheels are alluline twist's/cups/turbines (loads of names) they are 15x7 et38 running 20mm spacers and compressed fk springs on the rear running helpers out not threads left at front on TA Technix coillovers (next year i have a set of citroen c2 fk front springs comperssed to go in 3cm shorter than TA's) currently have a 2" notch and 20mm engine raised on engine side (plan on doing 30 or 40mm raise to each side over christmas) she had a reinforced subframe but a trip to gti fest got rid of the extra 5mm :/ (note to self, cats eyes are bigger than ground clearance) any questions just ask me all photo's from Stephen Barker at Images:SB this lad is awesome with a camera ^ ^ ^ ^ and a genuine nice guy