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decided to make this thread so everyone can stop asking how to do the conversions. also find out why everyone says polo gti looms are easier. done this conversion three times now so iv got the idea how you do it you will need polo gti engine polo gti looms inside and out polo gti or lupo gti ecu and if you have cable throttle get the gti, sport, pedal box electrical CENTRAL LOCKING easiest way to do central locking is to use your old loom( if it has central locking) strip the loom down starting from the drivers side door connecters seperator the central locking wires from the other wires. do the left side door connector firstly to the fusebox and also to the drivers side wires where they attach. secondly down to the boot of the car where they lead to the boot lock and interior lighting. do the same to the polo gti looms while also taking out the air pump pipes. the boot wires need to be chopped or either the pins need taking out the connector blocks once done put the old looms to the gti ( best to go fusebox first) the polo gti looms may have extra peices going off near to the rear speakers these where the interior light sensor connects and are no longer needed once all fitted, soldered,crimped etc test the central locking using your original central locking control unit. if remote test your fob should still work without reproggramming wrap up the loom securly as you wont need to take that bit apart again. this loom also does your electric windows if you have them. LIGHTING front light pins will need swopping and so do the rears the 3rd brake light pin needs to be swapped over else you will find the 3rd brake light will not work ( obvs) but also the fuse will keep popping the reverse light pin will need to be chopped and made into a double wire to use for both lights as the polo only uses one reverse light. EARTHING/REAR RE-WIRING the looms shape is diffrent to the lupo so your will need to unwrapp the whole of the rear loom to relocate the earths for the rear lighting ,fuel pump etc the roof lining needs to be removed to swop the aerial cable to the other side or can be extended with more aerial cable. ENGINE/GEARBOX extra pieces will be need to do small but important bits of the conversion the speedo sensor will need changing or chopping. fitting the engine is just the same as putting the normal one in unless it is a 1.0 ltr then you need new engine mounts and a 1.4s,sport,gti gearbox the gearbox bolts will need to be change for either gti bolts or you can chopp them to fitt advice you to do the conversion on a abs type lupo as the abs one is more just plugg in and off you go. the non abs will need you to rip the bulb out of the clocks and hide the wiring your chopp it. throttle bodie has more air pipe hole in that will need either unscrewing and blocking or tubed to one another. if you do not have air con take the pump off and the gti steering pump with it and replace with the 1.4 pump the belt you need is 11.4 s belt. as for the cooling fan your need the relay off the gti that goes in the engine bay they are also on lupo gti's connect this all up and get a garage to test it with daignostic tool everything else is the same as the 1.4 so if you know how to take it now you know how to put it back in! HEATING the gti heaters use electric motors and a electronic computer to adjust the heating and location of the blowing air you can fit these in or you can simple chop the live which is the black and red large wire and solder it, female connect it to the orginal heater connector with the earth done the same aswell. everything else is a plug and play game done this so people that want to do the conversion have an idea what there getting into!

I've been meaning to chuck this together for a while. Currently, the information regarding fitting it is a bit all over the place and broken, so using photos that I took and information from the forum I've put together this fairly comprehensive walkthrough of how to fit Remote Central Locking. Before starting, you already need central locking as standard. So pov specs are out of luck. Fitting remote central locking is very easy, even for a novice, but you need to be willing to remove trim and mess with wiring. It's not plug and play, but it's not far off. For an expert it would take less than an hour. For a VW expert, it would probably take 20 minutes! For a total novice it will likely take about 2-4 hours, so leave yourself a bit of time to do it. These steps are fairly inter-changeable so just use them as a guide rather than a strict tutorial. e.g. if you want to save the trouble, you can happily snip the cables from the RCL wiring loom BEFORE fitting it. I just wrote the guide from memory in order of the way I did it. Kits You need a kit to begin with. If you want a Flip Key, I suggest going for the RightClick kit as it comes with them as standard, however there is a fairly widespread opinion that the pin wears out quickly - http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=671 They are also pretty expensive considering you're paying a premium for a flashy key. If you want value, I suggest one of these kits from eBay (the one I went for) - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Car-Remote-Control-Central-Door-Lock-Locking-Keyless-Entry-System-UK-/290804035020?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item43b5456dcc RightClick sell the exact same kit for £26.95. All you get extra is an activity LED + a pretty instruction manual. You may as well save your money. If you want classy you could go for a Hawk Car Alarm's kit which has carbon fibre remotes and most of which support optional extras such as proximity alarms etc and such. I won't be covering that kit, so I won't place the link however if you do want to go for this kit, you might want to use this as a loose guide for fitting it. Preparation Depending on the kit you chose, the box should contain one receiver box, two remotes, one wiring loom, a sticky back pad, (Optional) an LED indicator (Optional) and a instruction manual. Receiver Box and Wiring Loom looks something like this: I suggest purchasing some earth ring terminals if possible (an assorted bag would be ideal as I have forgotten the size of the screw thread you will be using to earth), if not, a decent fork connector is enough which is what I used. If you do decide to use earth terminals, you may want a few of them as you can do each wire individually rather than grouping. If you use a fork, you probably will only want one as they are a nightmare to get hooked so like me will group. A roll of electrical tape will be useful for keeping wires bundled together, a crimp tool if you need to extend the wire... and of course you may need some extra wire to go along with that. I found that two wires requiring earth were far too short, so I extended them using spade connectors + heat shrink for neatness. You can do this however you want. Guide 1. The first thing you will want to do is remove the relevant trim. The easiest piece to get you going is the trim above the pedals, which is held in by two Torx screws. This might be a good opportunity to scout yourself out a good position for the receiver box, just because you'll have lots of wires in the footwell later on. While the general recommendation is as high as possible, I've not had any reception issues so far with it down above the pedals. When you find a nice spot, make sure your pedals can be pressed without the box interfering. Mine is located slightly behind the white grid on a flat surface, out of the way of the pedals. I hope to add a photo of this a.s.a.p. Don't secure it just yet, remember the spot though. 2. Now you need to remove the bonnet release handle and trim. There really is no photo that can explain the removal of the bonnet release handle, it's a bugger, but the way I found best was to pull the handle (opening the bonnet in the process) and then using a flat head screwdriver as a lever inside the gap holding in the piece towards the rear of the handle. If you look at the photo below, the piece to the right is held in to the bonnet release. You can flick this off, the bonnet release will come off. Unscrew the screw behind and remove the trim. It is a bit awkward, but it will come with a bit of effort. 3. You should now see the wiring harnesses, one blue, one brown and one black. The brown wiring harness is for the central locking mechanism on the door. The blue harness is the Control Module on the door. I suggest removing both of them from the bases. This is quite hard. I'm yet to find the correct way of doing this, however lifting the side lock of the plug while using a flat head screwdriver seemed to work fairly effectively. You might need to wriggle them a bit. Take a pair of scissors and cut away a few inches of the cloth surrounding the wires coming off the looms. You don't need to cut loads off, just enough that you can patch in using your respective method. I cut roughly 1-2 inches (see below). Separate the wires so you can identify the ones you need to splice. Ignore the red electrical tape on the photo below, I added this months ago after I tried (and failed) to install this kit using scotchlocks... oh, and don't use scotchlocks I removed the red electrical tape before splicing 4. Grab your wiring loom, make sure none of the wires are tangled. Now your kit may differ, but assuming you went for an RClick, or a Universal Kit from eBay like the one I did, the colour codes for the wires should be identical so you can follow those below. If not, make sure you check your instruction manual or wiring diagram. RCL Wiring Loom Red Wire (+12v) to Thick Blue/Yellow Wire Brown PlugRCL Wiring Loom White Wire (Lock) to Grey/Yellow Wire Brown PlugRCL Wiring Loom White/Black Wire (Unlock) to Blue/Violet Brown Plug(Optional) RCL Wiring Loom Green (Window Close) to Grey/Yellow Blue PlugSplice these connections using your respective method. Soldering, military splice or bullet/spade connections are ideal. If you use spade connections use heatshrink!!!! Try and ensure the inline spliced wires are facing upwards so not to introduce a kink, which can reduce the lifetime of the connection. 5. Once that is complete leave the loom in the footwell. Secure the receiver box wherever you decided earlier (I bet you didn't). I suggest doing this now as you may need to extend two wires on the loom in the next step. If you would prefer to place the box later, you can go straight to step 6/7. Mine is placed just behind the white grid on a small flat section. Make sure it does not interfere with the pedals. Secure it using the sticky tape, or alternatively blu-tac. I used blu-tac as it's reusable and I may purchase a programmable key (NOT FLIP) in the future and remote learning requires access to the box. The photo below demonstrates where approximately where mine is located, although you can't see it as the photo was taken before I fitted it properly. I'll take one of the box properly fitted a.s.a.p. [iNSERT IMAGE HERE WHEN YOU FIND IT!] 6. Now you will need to connect the earths. The black wire needs to be earthed along with the yellow and yellow/black wire. The problem is that while the black earth wire from the wiring loom is long enough, the yellow and yellow/black wires are not... at least not in my case. You will need to extend these. To achieve this, I took a male spade connector, doubled the two wires into a single junction, which connected to a female spade connector crimped onto one thick piece of wire of decent length. To finish the job, I wrapped the junction in some heat shrink which will prevent it from coming loose in the future. Take the extended wire(s) along with the black earth wire from the loom and ground them using the screw on the silver bracket below shown in the photo below. For this, you can either use an earth ring terminal or a fork connector. I used a heavy duty fork connector as my earth ring terminals were too small for the thread, I used a single fork which is naughty I know, but works fine. I also recommend bundling the earthed wires using some electrical tape. It just makes them a bit easier to manage. Plug in the wiring loom to the receiver box 6. At this point, it would be a good idea to re-plug the brown and blue connectors back in and check whether it actually works. You don't want to be left red faced when it doesn't. Assuming it works and you don't intend to wire in the indicators, now you just need to route the wiring. Unplug the wiring loom from the receiver box. It is far easier to route this way. I suggest snipping all the wires that aren't being used as they can get a bit out of control as you can see in the photo above (right at the start of the guide). I snipped all of the coiled wires except the green one as that is the window rollup. If you snip them roughly 3 inches from the plug, you can easily re-attach them later using a bullet or spade connector, something I will do if I wire in the indicators. If you want to wire the indicators now, do not snip the brown wires on the loom. Go to the bottom under the section Indicators for explanation of how. 7. To route the wiring loom, I suggest bundling the remaining wires together using electrical tape and then taping the bunch down next to the panel. To be fair, you will be on your own a bit here because I imagine each person will locate the box slightly differently. Just do it logically. Don't be silly, make sure it is nowhere near the pedals, and don't drape it across the piece of trim you removed earlier. If you do, you (or your mechanic) will be irritated next time you remove it... e.g. replacing a brake light switch if it fails. Be generous with the electrical tape, so the wires are nicely bundled and secured. It might look messy but how often are you going to access that wiring behind the bonnet handle? I taped the wire bundle to the nearside panel so they don't move then ensured the routing was consistent up to where the box was located. This wasn't hard but I probably spent about 10-20 minutes to make sure it was perfect. Plug the loom back into the box and test it one last time. Do a quick spot check to make sure your earth is strong, your wiring is safe and there is no chance of it catching the pedals. Ensure the brown and blue plugs are safely seated. They are designed to vibrate, but will shuffle out if they are not securely locked into the socket. I will get a photo here a.s.a.p. showing how it looks before I put the trim back on. For now, use your imagination 8. Re-attach the the relevant trim. The trim behind the bonnet release handle is kind of awkward, but you will just need to feed the clips using a bit of twisting and what not. You'll get it, just be patient. The bonnet release handle is really easy, as you simply place it in the correct position then feed the locking clip back into the open hole. Take the panel above the pedals and push it back where it came from. It should clip in, although the clips aren't really suitable for anything other than temporary grips while you re-screw it. 9. (Optional) Pop down your local pub and have a beer. Don't drive if you're having more than one Indicators There are two methods of wiring in the indicators so they flash. On the RCL wiring loom, the indicator flashers are the brown wires. As I've done neither thus far, I cannot add any photos here. The most common method is to simply remove the steering column and splice into the White/Black and Green/Black wires which are both indicators respectively. If I do decide to do this, I will upload photos later. Alternatively, Pete91's method is to wire them into the hazard warning switch. Video Video of my value kit installed. Youtube Video -> Original Video Any questions, just PM me. Good Luck!

Recently bought a 2002 Lupo 1.0. Looked good, but has had a few minor problems that I've been steadily sorting. Most annoying has been the noisy door clicking caused by the failed bushes in the door check straps. Was inspired by excellent posting http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/95868-how-to-ghetto-fix-long-term-fix-checkstraps-without-buying-a-new-pair/?hl=%2Bcheck+%2Bstrap to try and fix without spending the £50 that it would take to get two replacement check straps, but did it a little differently. First Try Basically followed the earlier post using some plastic spacers that I had which were conveniently close enough to required size to let me sand them down by a mm or so to get a tight fit.Worked and doors opened and closed quietly, but there was still a little play in pin that attaches the check strap to the car body. Worried that this play would ultimately lead to the same type of failure that the standard part suffers from.Decided that I needed to find a better option for the bush replacement so had a look for a metal alternative.Solution Was able to fix without removing the check straps, but because one of the straps was loose decided to remove it to fix.Removed all of the remnants of the original plastic bushes and cleaned up the partThe replacement bush needs to have 12mm outer diameter, 6mm inner diameter and 8mm height. Found a brass replacement, OB061208, at 88p each. Purchased from Amazon, cheaper delivery that the home website of the supplier. http://www.amazon.co.uk/OB061208-Plain-Oilite-Bearing-Bush/dp/B00DEDEURE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1377118325&sr=1-1&keywords=OB061208Bush was going to be a little big, so 5 minutes with sandpaper to take a little off the diameter. Checked the pin fitting. Was perfect, rotates freely, but zero play.Used a vice to force the first bush into the check strap. Worked, but decided to give the sandpaper an extra few minutes for the second bush and was able to get it into the check strap in-situ without need for a vice.Fitted check strap, secured pin and greased.Result An absolutely perfect fix that I think will survive as long as the car. Now onto next job, replacing the lambda sensor. Colin.

any body know what could cause this?

I'm starting a tread on my fox from standard and will slowly will be making modifications to it hope you like it

Great rim colour and you're lucky to have the leather interior keep on keeping on Marv

have a look through readers rides and see if you can find some inspiration, but if you do go for bbs don't buy the cheap fakes and try and pull them off as genuine, if you need anywhere to look go wheel-whores.com, ebay, theres also a page on facebook that sell and swap wheels or even the classified ads on here. but its all down to your self at the end of the day with choosing which wheels you want

Anyone know who can give a good quote? Stupid q I know itsy first car and im 20... im just sick of having boxes put in my face left right an centre!!!!

Brass bushes and repaired check strap ready for refitting.

I'm no good at photoshop and want to do a few things to my lupo... Could someone please help me do the following: matte black- roof, wheels and wing mirrorsgloss black- roof, wheels and wing mirrorsremove side strips lower 50mm Thanks in advance (sorry for big images)

Vw part numbers are 1J2 955 425 B for n/s 1J2 955 426 B for o/s for the rear aero conversion, you'll need 6Q6 955 425 A for the blade 6Q6 955 707 C for the arm 6Q6 955 435 D for the cap

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Sent an enquiry to VW today for a few parts, just wanted to chuck them up, i think some are already on here: For the rear aero wiper (i'll put up a how to, if there hasn't been one) 6Q6 955 435 D - POLO WIPER 'CAP' - £2.28 6Q6 955 707 B - WIPER ARM - £16.31 3C9 955 425 - POLO WIPER BLADE - £7.04 £25.63 INC VAT for the above. Service parts: 201 511 B - FUEL FILTER - £10.14 030 115 561 AN - OIL FILTER - £5.06 WLST 0M2 RZX - MOON SILVER TOUCH UP PEN SET - £6.03 WLLS 0M6 RZX - MOON SILVER SPRAY PAINT SET - £13.09 Lupo GTi bumpers: 6E0 807 217 J - FRONT BUMPER - £91.38 6E0 805 901 - FRONT SPOILER - £60.54 6E0 807 417 B - REAR BUMPER - 106.29 Hope it's of some help Mark