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Hi guys, not been in this forum in ages. Cut a long story short... When I was 17 my first car was a Lupo GTI and I loved it. Now at 24 I've owned a few different cars and currently own an E39 M5 and MK5 Golf GTI. I'm looking to sell the GTI within this year as I've owned 2 and as much as I love it running it and an M5 is very expensive. This is where the Lupo comes in... I've noticed recently Lupo prices have fallen quite a bit and its possible to get a nice GTI for less than 3K. I know I'll prob get shot down for this but what sort of mpg do people get from their Lupo GTI, how much do tyres cost, apart from usual consumables and Cambelt and water pump is there anything else that needs replaced. What sort of miles do clutches go and are gearboxes robust... How is the bodywork for corrosion, I know the roof can corrode but anything else as most panels are aluminium Any help and opinions would be good .

Hey guys, In the future I was planning to convert my engine to something more powerful than my IL and was wondering if a 1.3 polo engine would fit and the get a supercharger for it, anyone done this or know if it works? and if it's a straight swap?

I'd rather rattle can them, wouldn't even cost 10 quid to do and you would be left with loads spare

I've seen this idea on a few forums now. How about we start a photo of the day thread? There seem to be a fair few of us on here with at least some interest in photography so just an opportunity to post some good photos up for people to appreciate or comment on RULES: 1. one pic per member per day 2. must be the work of the poster 3. try to keep the images to a reasonable size to assist viewing. A link to the full res version may be posted if required. 4. please respect others images and ask permission before using elsewhere or downloading to your computer (Added by Silver! 14 Oct 08 as the original rules seem to have disappeared)

Hi! I´m new on this forum but i have owned my Lupo for 3 years. I´m doing a 1,8t 20v conversion on my little green friend this winter and i´m nearly done, only exhaustsystem remaining. Pictures can be found in this link: http://www.gtiklubben.nu/forum/showthread.php?3453-Lupo-1-4-16v-blir-1-8T!/page17 The forum is only in swedish but there´s always pictures to look at : ) My Lupo. The 20vt engine fitted.

I'm running a remap at the moment, and wondering if a cold air feed would increase power? I understand in theory it should increase power, but do they really work? Particularly on remapped diesels?

whos got what then? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

Good progress again What did you need to gain access behind the vapour barrier for ?

Lupo, Mk2 Arosa, Mk4 Golf with a bit of work.

my car seems to have developed a clunk coming from the bottom of the coloumn, at the bottom of the coloumn is a spring just before the uj, and the shaft here seems to be moving around a few mm and clunking, if i push down on wheel it stops for a bit then starts again. anybody know if theres a bearing that can be replaced or is it new coloumn time,

You sound surprised Koop? I've said for months/years these devices are better than people give them credit for. I listed all the functions that mine does above. You won't find many big brand (Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC) devices offering that kind of feature-set for under £1000. I'm not saying these devices are all perfect and there will be some bad experiences I'm sure, but the two China 2Din's I own I've been more than happy with. It's always good to do a bit of research and perhaps target which device you want, also pick a company that is recommended on places like GPS Passion and NaviTotal. Technically speaking, I would love a pure Android head unit. Big brands don't manufacture them, they bodge it like Parrot do. The only guys producing pure Android head units are Chinese companies. They're a little bit pricey at the moment, usually just over £250 and there's also the risk of it quickly becoming outdated (something that won't happen with WinCE). I can't argue with the performance of my device though, and at the price they're manufactured for, if you get a years use out of it, you've arguably had your moneys worth. I imagine I'll get quite a lot longer than a year

Opinions noted.

It's porn

Just gave this a read through, pretty gutted when I saw it crashed haha. Beautiful car!

Rich knows where Pete is lurking, even when he doesn't reply he is here. Kinda like Scotty in that respect.

After patching it up previously, a hole has reappeared in my Lupo's exhaust just next to the cat. Don't think I can patch it again, so will need to replace... Decision is whether to replace with or without the cat - and then where to get the parts.... I've seen various conflicting posts around the web regarding getting through an MoT with a de-cat'd diesel. Anyone got any experience one way or other? And anyone got any recommendations on where to get a reasonably priced replacement part? Cheers

Your Lupo looks really cute in blue with the pink

LOL!!! If you redline, you can nail a tank in 30 miles? You do realize the tank is a 33 litre tank? That means your car is averaging 4 miles to the gallon. I'm pretty sure a 2.5L petrol twin turbo Lexus Soarer gets 11mpg. Something's definitely wrong there. I'm starting to think you should bang it on eBay sooner rather than later. Mind you, if you're getting the engine rebuilt, you might find a number of your problems go away.

Looking for a new exhaust system as mine has developed a slight blow on the Center section and its to rotten to weld so instead of by another standard one what exhaust system do people recommend that wont break the bank it's for a 1.4s

Is there anyway i can get these to look any better? both handles and window winder handles (if thats the proper name for them ) or am i better or just replacing the whole lot?

decided to make this thread so everyone can stop asking how to do the conversions. also find out why everyone says polo gti looms are easier. done this conversion three times now so iv got the idea how you do it you will need polo gti engine polo gti looms inside and out polo gti or lupo gti ecu and if you have cable throttle get the gti, sport, pedal box electrical CENTRAL LOCKING easiest way to do central locking is to use your old loom( if it has central locking) strip the loom down starting from the drivers side door connecters seperator the central locking wires from the other wires. do the left side door connector firstly to the fusebox and also to the drivers side wires where they attach. secondly down to the boot of the car where they lead to the boot lock and interior lighting. do the same to the polo gti looms while also taking out the air pump pipes. the boot wires need to be chopped or either the pins need taking out the connector blocks once done put the old looms to the gti ( best to go fusebox first) the polo gti looms may have extra peices going off near to the rear speakers these where the interior light sensor connects and are no longer needed once all fitted, soldered,crimped etc test the central locking using your original central locking control unit. if remote test your fob should still work without reproggramming wrap up the loom securly as you wont need to take that bit apart again. this loom also does your electric windows if you have them. LIGHTING front light pins will need swopping and so do the rears the 3rd brake light pin needs to be swapped over else you will find the 3rd brake light will not work ( obvs) but also the fuse will keep popping the reverse light pin will need to be chopped and made into a double wire to use for both lights as the polo only uses one reverse light. EARTHING/REAR RE-WIRING the looms shape is diffrent to the lupo so your will need to unwrapp the whole of the rear loom to relocate the earths for the rear lighting ,fuel pump etc the roof lining needs to be removed to swop the aerial cable to the other side or can be extended with more aerial cable. ENGINE/GEARBOX extra pieces will be need to do small but important bits of the conversion the speedo sensor will need changing or chopping. fitting the engine is just the same as putting the normal one in unless it is a 1.0 ltr then you need new engine mounts and a 1.4s,sport,gti gearbox the gearbox bolts will need to be change for either gti bolts or you can chopp them to fitt advice you to do the conversion on a abs type lupo as the abs one is more just plugg in and off you go. the non abs will need you to rip the bulb out of the clocks and hide the wiring your chopp it. throttle bodie has more air pipe hole in that will need either unscrewing and blocking or tubed to one another. if you do not have air con take the pump off and the gti steering pump with it and replace with the 1.4 pump the belt you need is 11.4 s belt. as for the cooling fan your need the relay off the gti that goes in the engine bay they are also on lupo gti's connect this all up and get a garage to test it with daignostic tool everything else is the same as the 1.4 so if you know how to take it now you know how to put it back in! HEATING the gti heaters use electric motors and a electronic computer to adjust the heating and location of the blowing air you can fit these in or you can simple chop the live which is the black and red large wire and solder it, female connect it to the orginal heater connector with the earth done the same aswell. everything else is a plug and play game done this so people that want to do the conversion have an idea what there getting into!

LOOSEN DRIVERS WHEEL NUTS JACK CAR UP ON DRIVERS SIDE AND THEN REST THE CAR ON A AXLE STAND REMOVE DRIVERS SIDE WHEEL YOU CAN NOW PARTLEY SEE THE BOTTOM PULLEY DISCONECT BATTERY (OPTIONAL) MAKING SURE YOU HAVE RADIO CODE REMOVE ENGINE COVER, 2X10MM, 2XBREATHER PIPES, 1 VACUM PIPE LIFT COVER UP AND THEN REMOVE IF YOU ARE GOING TO RENEW THE WATER PUMP WITH THE BELT THEN DRAIN COOLANT FROM BOTTOM OF RADIATOR HOSE YOU CAN USE THIS AGAIN OR REPLACE THE COOLANT UP TO YOU REMOVE THE TOP CAM BELT COVER NOW SURPORT THE ENGINE WITH A TROLLEY JACK AND A PIECE OF SOFT WOOD ON TO THE BOTTOM OF THE SUMP REMOVE THE ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET 2X13MM REMOVE ENGINE MOUNT 3X16MM NOW THE ENGINE CAN BE RAISED AND LOWERED BY THE TROLLEY JACK REMOVE ALTERNATOR BELT AND THEN REMOVE THE BELT ADJUSTER TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE BOTTOM OF THE CAMBELT COVER NOW LOWER THE ENGINE SLOWLY SO YOU CAN GAIN ACCESS TO THE BOTTOM PULLEY FROM THE DRIVERS WHEEL ARCH CLEAN THE 4X6MM ALAN KEY BOLTS AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD FIT AS NOT TO ROUND OF SLACKEN OF THE 4 BOLTS YOU CAN PUT A 19MM SPANNER ON THE CRANKSHAFT NUT TO STOP THE BOTTOM PULLEY FROM TURNING DO NOT REMOVE THE 19MM CRANKSHAFT BOLT UNLESS YOU ARE REPLACING THE SEAL AS THIS IS TORQUED UP TO A HIGH SETTING NOW TO TIME UP THE ENGINE BEFORE WE REMOVE THE BOTTOM PULLEY TIMING MARKS ARE ALLREADY ON THE CAM AND CRANKSHAFT YOU CAN UES TIPEX OR WHITE TOACH UP STICK MAKE SURE THE BOTTOM PULLEY IS ALIGNED UP AND THE CAM SHAFT IS ALIGNED REMOVE THE BOTTOM PULLEY YOU MIGHT HAVE TO TAP OF BUT DO NOT DAMAGE THE PULLEY NOW REMOVE THE BOTTOM CAMBELT COVER 3X10MM AND 2XCLIPS NOW JACK UP THE ENGINE TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE BRACKET THAT IS BETWEEN THE CAM BELT AND REMOVE 3X16MM MAKE SURE ALL OF YOUR TIMING MARKS ARE ALIGNED AND NOW REMOVE THE BELT TENSONER AND BELT WITH OUT MOVING THE CAMSHAFT/CRANKSHAFT NOW REMOVE THE WATER PUMP 2X6MM ALAN KEY RENEW WATER PUMP AND TENSONIER TIME AND ADJUST THE CAM BELT AND TURN ENGINE OVER BY HAND TWICE TO MAKE SURE THE TIMING MARKS ARE ALLINGED AND THAT THE PISTONS WILL NOT HIT THE VALVES NOW REFIT EVERTHING BACK IN REVERSE ORDER MAKING SURE TO USE BLUE LOCKTIGHT ON THE BOLTS YOU REMOVED REFILL WITH COOLANT AND BLEED THE SYSTEM JOB DONE PARTS AROUND £100.00 GIVE YOURSELF HALF A DAY AND I ALWAYS USE ORIGINAL PARTS FOR THIS KIND OF JOB. THE MONEY YOU SAVE IN LABOUR YOU CAN AFFORD ON PARTS THANKS TO LUPOBOZ (DALE) WHO SURPLIED ORGINAL PARTS WITH HIS DISCOUNT THIS IS ONLY MY ADVICE ON THIS AND YOU TAKE ANY WORK YOU DO AT YOUR OWN RISK.