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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/08/2013 in Posts

  1. Does anyone know where I can get poly bushes from cheaply. the websites say one things and then they lead you to distributors that but an extra 50% on the price tag..
    3 points
  2. Need some new dampers to go with my new springs...Will the GTI front dampers fit the TDI Please let me know...
    3 points
  3. Is the rear VW badge on the boot lid just a sticky back that can be pried off with a little persuasion? Or dose it have clips attaching it?
    2 points
  4. I've been looking at another Lupo today. When I got there, he switched the ignition on and the engine mgmt light came on. He then started the car and it went off, is this normal? I've never seen this on either of the two Lupos I've owned.
    2 points
  5. I've been meaning to chuck this together for a while. Currently, the information regarding fitting it is a bit all over the place and broken, so using photos that I took and information from the forum I've put together this fairly comprehensive walkthrough of how to fit Remote Central Locking. Before starting, you already need central locking as standard. So pov specs are out of luck. Fitting remote central locking is very easy, even for a novice, but you need to be willing to remove trim and mess with wiring. It's not plug and play, but it's not far off. For an expert it would take less than an hour. For a VW expert, it would probably take 20 minutes! For a total novice it will likely take about 2-4 hours, so leave yourself a bit of time to do it. These steps are fairly inter-changeable so just use them as a guide rather than a strict tutorial. e.g. if you want to save the trouble, you can happily snip the cables from the RCL wiring loom BEFORE fitting it. I just wrote the guide from memory in order of the way I did it. Kits You need a kit to begin with. If you want a Flip Key, I suggest going for the RightClick kit as it comes with them as standard, however there is a fairly widespread opinion that the pin wears out quickly - http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=671 They are also pretty expensive considering you're paying a premium for a flashy key. If you want value, I suggest one of these kits from eBay (the one I went for) - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Car-Remote-Control-Central-Door-Lock-Locking-Keyless-Entry-System-UK-/290804035020?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item43b5456dcc RightClick sell the exact same kit for £26.95. All you get extra is an activity LED + a pretty instruction manual. You may as well save your money. If you want classy you could go for a Hawk Car Alarm's kit which has carbon fibre remotes and most of which support optional extras such as proximity alarms etc and such. I won't be covering that kit, so I won't place the link however if you do want to go for this kit, you might want to use this as a loose guide for fitting it. Preparation Depending on the kit you chose, the box should contain one receiver box, two remotes, one wiring loom, a sticky back pad, (Optional) an LED indicator (Optional) and a instruction manual. Receiver Box and Wiring Loom looks something like this: I suggest purchasing some earth ring terminals if possible (an assorted bag would be ideal as I have forgotten the size of the screw thread you will be using to earth), if not, a decent fork connector is enough which is what I used. If you do decide to use earth terminals, you may want a few of them as you can do each wire individually rather than grouping. If you use a fork, you probably will only want one as they are a nightmare to get hooked so like me will group. A roll of electrical tape will be useful for keeping wires bundled together, a crimp tool if you need to extend the wire... and of course you may need some extra wire to go along with that. I found that two wires requiring earth were far too short, so I extended them using spade connectors + heat shrink for neatness. You can do this however you want. Guide 1. The first thing you will want to do is remove the relevant trim. The easiest piece to get you going is the trim above the pedals, which is held in by two Torx screws. This might be a good opportunity to scout yourself out a good position for the receiver box, just because you'll have lots of wires in the footwell later on. While the general recommendation is as high as possible, I've not had any reception issues so far with it down above the pedals. When you find a nice spot, make sure your pedals can be pressed without the box interfering. Mine is located slightly behind the white grid on a flat surface, out of the way of the pedals. I hope to add a photo of this a.s.a.p. Don't secure it just yet, remember the spot though. 2. Now you need to remove the bonnet release handle and trim. There really is no photo that can explain the removal of the bonnet release handle, it's a bugger, but the way I found best was to pull the handle (opening the bonnet in the process) and then using a flat head screwdriver as a lever inside the gap holding in the piece towards the rear of the handle. If you look at the photo below, the piece to the right is held in to the bonnet release. You can flick this off, the bonnet release will come off. Unscrew the screw behind and remove the trim. It is a bit awkward, but it will come with a bit of effort. 3. You should now see the wiring harnesses, one blue, one brown and one black. The brown wiring harness is for the central locking mechanism on the door. The blue harness is the Control Module on the door. I suggest removing both of them from the bases. This is quite hard. I'm yet to find the correct way of doing this, however lifting the side lock of the plug while using a flat head screwdriver seemed to work fairly effectively. You might need to wriggle them a bit. Take a pair of scissors and cut away a few inches of the cloth surrounding the wires coming off the looms. You don't need to cut loads off, just enough that you can patch in using your respective method. I cut roughly 1-2 inches (see below). Separate the wires so you can identify the ones you need to splice. Ignore the red electrical tape on the photo below, I added this months ago after I tried (and failed) to install this kit using scotchlocks... oh, and don't use scotchlocks I removed the red electrical tape before splicing 4. Grab your wiring loom, make sure none of the wires are tangled. Now your kit may differ, but assuming you went for an RClick, or a Universal Kit from eBay like the one I did, the colour codes for the wires should be identical so you can follow those below. If not, make sure you check your instruction manual or wiring diagram. RCL Wiring Loom Red Wire (+12v) to Thick Blue/Yellow Wire Brown PlugRCL Wiring Loom White Wire (Lock) to Grey/Yellow Wire Brown PlugRCL Wiring Loom White/Black Wire (Unlock) to Blue/Violet Brown Plug(Optional) RCL Wiring Loom Green (Window Close) to Grey/Yellow Blue PlugSplice these connections using your respective method. Soldering, military splice or bullet/spade connections are ideal. If you use spade connections use heatshrink!!!! Try and ensure the inline spliced wires are facing upwards so not to introduce a kink, which can reduce the lifetime of the connection. 5. Once that is complete leave the loom in the footwell. Secure the receiver box wherever you decided earlier (I bet you didn't). I suggest doing this now as you may need to extend two wires on the loom in the next step. If you would prefer to place the box later, you can go straight to step 6/7. Mine is placed just behind the white grid on a small flat section. Make sure it does not interfere with the pedals. Secure it using the sticky tape, or alternatively blu-tac. I used blu-tac as it's reusable and I may purchase a programmable key (NOT FLIP) in the future and remote learning requires access to the box. The photo below demonstrates where approximately where mine is located, although you can't see it as the photo was taken before I fitted it properly. I'll take one of the box properly fitted a.s.a.p. [iNSERT IMAGE HERE WHEN YOU FIND IT!] 6. Now you will need to connect the earths. The black wire needs to be earthed along with the yellow and yellow/black wire. The problem is that while the black earth wire from the wiring loom is long enough, the yellow and yellow/black wires are not... at least not in my case. You will need to extend these. To achieve this, I took a male spade connector, doubled the two wires into a single junction, which connected to a female spade connector crimped onto one thick piece of wire of decent length. To finish the job, I wrapped the junction in some heat shrink which will prevent it from coming loose in the future. Take the extended wire(s) along with the black earth wire from the loom and ground them using the screw on the silver bracket below shown in the photo below. For this, you can either use an earth ring terminal or a fork connector. I used a heavy duty fork connector as my earth ring terminals were too small for the thread, I used a single fork which is naughty I know, but works fine. I also recommend bundling the earthed wires using some electrical tape. It just makes them a bit easier to manage. Plug in the wiring loom to the receiver box 6. At this point, it would be a good idea to re-plug the brown and blue connectors back in and check whether it actually works. You don't want to be left red faced when it doesn't. Assuming it works and you don't intend to wire in the indicators, now you just need to route the wiring. Unplug the wiring loom from the receiver box. It is far easier to route this way. I suggest snipping all the wires that aren't being used as they can get a bit out of control as you can see in the photo above (right at the start of the guide). I snipped all of the coiled wires except the green one as that is the window rollup. If you snip them roughly 3 inches from the plug, you can easily re-attach them later using a bullet or spade connector, something I will do if I wire in the indicators. If you want to wire the indicators now, do not snip the brown wires on the loom. Go to the bottom under the section Indicators for explanation of how. 7. To route the wiring loom, I suggest bundling the remaining wires together using electrical tape and then taping the bunch down next to the panel. To be fair, you will be on your own a bit here because I imagine each person will locate the box slightly differently. Just do it logically. Don't be silly, make sure it is nowhere near the pedals, and don't drape it across the piece of trim you removed earlier. If you do, you (or your mechanic) will be irritated next time you remove it... e.g. replacing a brake light switch if it fails. Be generous with the electrical tape, so the wires are nicely bundled and secured. It might look messy but how often are you going to access that wiring behind the bonnet handle? I taped the wire bundle to the nearside panel so they don't move then ensured the routing was consistent up to where the box was located. This wasn't hard but I probably spent about 10-20 minutes to make sure it was perfect. Plug the loom back into the box and test it one last time. Do a quick spot check to make sure your earth is strong, your wiring is safe and there is no chance of it catching the pedals. Ensure the brown and blue plugs are safely seated. They are designed to vibrate, but will shuffle out if they are not securely locked into the socket. I will get a photo here a.s.a.p. showing how it looks before I put the trim back on. For now, use your imagination 8. Re-attach the the relevant trim. The trim behind the bonnet release handle is kind of awkward, but you will just need to feed the clips using a bit of twisting and what not. You'll get it, just be patient. The bonnet release handle is really easy, as you simply place it in the correct position then feed the locking clip back into the open hole. Take the panel above the pedals and push it back where it came from. It should clip in, although the clips aren't really suitable for anything other than temporary grips while you re-screw it. 9. (Optional) Pop down your local pub and have a beer. Don't drive if you're having more than one Indicators There are two methods of wiring in the indicators so they flash. On the RCL wiring loom, the indicator flashers are the brown wires. As I've done neither thus far, I cannot add any photos here. The most common method is to simply remove the steering column and splice into the White/Black and Green/Black wires which are both indicators respectively. If I do decide to do this, I will upload photos later. Alternatively, Pete91's method is to wire them into the hazard warning switch. Video Video of my value kit installed. Youtube Video -> Original Video Any questions, just PM me. Good Luck!
    1 point
  6. OK, my original thread got deleted somehow (possibly cos it was Ford related lol) so I've recreated it as I know a few of you were interested in it. Quick info about the car- Ford Racing Puma (FRP) #401 of 500 The FRP was a special edition model of the popular Ford Puma that was designed developed and built by Ford Racing in Borham, originally 1000 were meant to be made but only 500 ever made it off the production line. They feature the Zetec 1.7 VVT engine with different cam shafts, engine managment, improved air intake system and a full racing exhaust with 4-2-1 manufold and 100 cell sports cat (from standard) producing 157BHP. Externally they have wider alloy front wings, extended steel rear arches, wider front nad rear bumpers and all came in Ford Racing Imperial blue paint. They all came with 17" wheels, 295mm front brakes with alcon racing 4 pot calipers up front. Inside they had Sparco Ford Racing seats with blue alcantara trim, matching door cards and steering wheel. As many of you know I previously owned a Lupo GTI which was sold earlier this year. I had originally wanted one of these even before I purchased the Lupo, at the time they were just out of my budget so I had the lupo. My itch for one of these cars didnt go away so as I grew tired of the lupo the hunt was on for a good FRP. I found this one in Birmingham so very local to me, it had been fully repainted inside and out, all panels correctly alligned and lots of new parts such as hubs, barings, bushes and powdercoated rear beam and front wishbones. Here it is when I first got her- http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w39/inkexpress_photos/FRP/IMG_1496.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w39/inkexpress_photos/FRP/IMG_1498.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w39/inkexpress_photos/FRP/IMG_1497.jpg My plans are to fully strip the underside, refurbish and replace any parts which require it before fully undersealing the car and painting. I've owned the car for 5 months and covered just 50 miles. Sad I know, but it will be worth the wait when it is done. Alex
    1 point
  7. hey guys, i had a letter yesterday from SEAT saying i need to take my car in to be checked for a common fault involving the material the brake vacuum pipe is made out of and that it needs to be checked and replaced if necessary! im surprised no one else has mentioned this... i'll put up more details when i get home. i'd call your local dealer and ask then about a recall concerning the brake vacuum hose! so now when the engine is working the brakes need fixing.... will this car ever be problem free!?! cheers Nathan
    1 point
  8. Hi people, here's a brief something about my current pride and joy, a 2002 silver Lupo GTI. It comes on the (in Germany) optional BBS rims, which the previous owner painted in a mat grey-blue colour. Looks okay on the car, but horrible horrible when it comes to brake dust ^^ It's got a Skytune catback exhaust that sounds rather nice and throaty, otherwise it's standard (not for long...). Couple pics: Hit 180k km yesterday: And some random pic next to my sister's yellow Polo 1.6 diesel: Plans are to eventually strip and track it. It's currently my daily driver but I'm going to start a new job soon where I'll get a company car, so that's when I'll do what needs to be done. I'll deal with induction after that stuff. Thanks for reading, Marvin
    1 point
  9. ok when i was under the car again today i noticed the drivers side driveshaft fouls the trunking that clips around the sump at the rear of the engine, now the trunking carries wiring for the alternator so if it had worn thru it would of earthed out and possibly caught fire,my car is low but people on here must have the same ride height or even lower so check it before its to late, to check lie on your back looking up at the area behind the sump plug the drive shaft will of had all the paint stripped off if its ben rubbing.
    1 point
  10. Anyone on here play guitar? post a pic of yours ...
    1 point
  11. I'm starting a tread on my fox from standard and will slowly will be making modifications to it hope you like it
    1 point
  12. hi all, just got myself a lupo gti, great little motor, just wondering if anyone can explain the right way to remove the plastic engine cover so I can change the air filter as I don't wanna break it ? any help greatly appreciated
    1 point
  13. Will a similar aged skoda rear axle fit my 1.0 ? Seen a picture of some they look the same ! But obviously one with discs There's a sport in my scrap yard but the axle is twisted up could I transfer the mounting hardware ? Or would the mk4 golf have the same mounts ? Any help would be appreciated as the lupo brakes are crap SKODA FABIA N/S REAR BRAKE CAILPER 1999 - 2007 GENUINE PART (AXLE, HUB NOT INC)http://bit.ly/13qPseO #ebayipadSkoda axel
    1 point
  14. So I made a topic a long time ago, didn't keep up with it so thought I would start again. So a lot has happened over the last year, car went from looking **** to, being in an accident and nearly being written off, this was bad times and happened a few days before christmas, so i was pretty bummed out. so lets so i just bought the car again, but broken... and going to be a pain in the ass for the next 5 months while i get everything sorted might all want to close your eyes its graphic. :/ thought she was gone this is one of my worst nightmare so after all this time for the repair to begin, after ripping everything off.
    1 point
  15. I saw a girl driving a white lupo in Coventry this morning, stuck in the roadworks where you come off the ring road for the London Road. It had white wheels, hard to tell but they may have been banded steels and the bootlid was flushed Very nice
    1 point
  16. So the past couple of days I've thought the car felt really heavy on acceleration. I've been conviced the brakes are sticking. So today I knocked on the rear brake housing with a hammer and the car definitely felt less heavy afterwards. Only bugger I now get is that when i release the brake (I do have to be under power though, in neutral on a flat road it doesn't happen) I get a small squeak. The teenager assures me its coming from the driver side rear wheel. Anyone got any ideas what that could be? Do i need to get the rear brakes replaced? I have recently had the rear suspension replaced but i never noticed it before the car started feeling heavy and i did the hammer thing (they used to creak a bit first thing in the morning though!) ...
    1 point
  17. Just picked up my new car which had previously had Cambridge edition rear lights, these were switched back to standard Arosa Mk2 lights for the sale, all the fuses were blown so i replaced them and they blew all over again. Different wiring. While rectifying the problem i found a load of spliced wires and it occurred to me that not many people know how to correctly swap connections in terminals so i decided to write up this little how to. Here goes: This is the spliced loom how i got it (bar pin 6 which i fixed before thinking about making a how to). If this mod was done the 'correct' way, it would be a lot quicker to revert and a lot neater. Step 1: Insert a small screwdriver or something similar to pry each end of the retainer. This block is for the rear lights, the retainer on the connector block for the radio will be a slider that pulls out the center of the block. NOTE: MOST BLOCKS CONTAIN RETAINERS. INSPECT THE BLOCK THOROUGHLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY EXTRACTION. This will be what it looks like open: Step 2: Insert something into the connector block from the front on either side of the pin to compress the tabs, you should feel/hear a small click or pop, this indicates the pin should be free. For this i used a staple from an electric stapler/nail gun. Not the greatest picture but you can just see on pin 5 (red and black) the staple pushing down on the tabs. Step 3: Extract the pins and swap around. Its that easy. A picture of the loom tidied up - all wires heat shrank up, then bound with insulating tape for water proofing and bound again with loom tape for strength.
    1 point
  18. I apologise now if this is the same boring old poo, but I really need some ideas for some new shoes for the loop!! Can anyone help and give me some ideas?! Much appreciated I have a few ideas in my head but I'd like to hear ideas and thoughts
    1 point
  19. Yes it is, but there are a whole load of other regulations they need to confirm to. Where are you getting them from?
    1 point
  20. Hi just wondering what manfiold options I had for my gti lupo, can only find the kent cam one which is stupid amounts of money. Someone told me the ashley 1.4 16v fits onto the 16v block? Could be wrong though! Any help? Cheers
    1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. Not for the tdi. The 9n covers some things but the engine bay is different and tbh haynes isn't all that IMO these days. I'm sure it used to be better? I think it would make for a better site.
    1 point
  23. Loveley jubley! get that mofo down
    1 point
  24. Right im revamping this post as i jsut had my car fully sprayed up and i am back in love with it ordering my coilovers next week along with wind deflectors and i am putting on my freshly painted mini g60 steels. here is a few pics to get me started again
    1 point
  25. there are 1700 people who put a 1400 in a 1.0 and 327 with a 1600 engine in a 1.0 lool 4 SDI '1.0e's' and one 1.2 tdi! all totally irrelevant to the OP but pretty cool.
    1 point
  26. Drove past you yesterday, tbh it looks better in person.
    1 point
  27. Does anyone know if this pedal box issue is uk-specific or applies to european left-drive lupos as well? i'm driving a 2001 lupo 1.4 highline, 112 000 km. issue : the clutch pedal is hard, noisy (as if some lubrication was missing somewhere) and the clutch does not engage fully in some conditions. result: 1st and 2nd gear are hard. To put the first gear when fully stopped you sometimes have to get in 2nd first and then up... I was going to blame the cable before changing the whole clutch but this thread looks interesting...only problem, can't find anything similar on other forums.
    1 point
  28. 1 point
  29. Good idea Mike. Lovin both of those pics. First car related pic so far, i took this at Inters on the Saturday when it was hot and sunny. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />
    1 point
  30. Well what cams are you using and what ecu?
    1 point
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