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Such a variety of cars on there tho, The list is aaallll wrong tho. Nissan pulsar??? wtf!!! And people who say the lupo isnt a hot hatch, it bloody well is. Just because it aint quite as fast as a clio sport doesnt mean its not a hot hatch.

I can see what your getting at but he hasnt really pushed his products on this thread, yeah he sells oil and this thread is about oil viscosity but no where does it promote the actual branded oils he sells.

get a sport first. i had a sport then moved to a gti. both great cars but two totally different beasts. stepping up a notch it made me appreciate how much more refined the gti is. still madly in love with my gti but will always have fond memories of sheila my sport.

im 18, i pay about £400 a year, i am insured on a fleet insurance through my dads comapny so can drive 8 different cars/vans includeing 2.0civic tpye R, ask the rents to look into fleet insurance alot cheeper and can drive the rents car too

Get a sport, GTis are over rated Rich.

Guy is an oil genius, he helped me choose the correct oil for mine. Silkoline pro-s 5-30 Fully synthetic, Great oil so far!

Oh fantastic... Someone has deleted my post...

If you are modding your car and adding BHP or using it off road then consider your oil choice carefully as the stock manufacturers recommended oil will not give you the protection that your engine requires. A standard oil will not be thermally stable enough to cope with higher temperatures without "shearing" meaning that the oil will not give the same protection after a couple of thousand miles as it it when it was new. Let’s start with the fundamentals. An engine is a device for converting fuel into motive power. Car enthusiasts get so deep into the details they lose sight of this! To get more power, an engine must be modified such that it converts more fuel per minute into power than it did in standard form. To produce 6.6 million foot-pounds per minute of power (ie 200 BHP) a modern engine will burn about 0.5 litres of fuel per minute.(Equivalent to 18mpg at 120mph). So, to increase this output to 300BHP or 9.9 million foot-pounds per minute it must be modified to burn (in theory) 0.75 litres. However, fuel efficiency often goes out of the window when power is the only consideration, so the true fuel burn will be rather more than 0.75 litres/min. That’s the fundamental point, here’s the fundamental problem: Less than 30% of the fuel (assuming it’s petrol) is converted to all those foot-pounds. The rest is thrown away as waste heat. True, most of it goes down the exhaust, but over 10% has to be eliminated from the engine internals, and the first line of defence is the oil. More power means a bigger heat elimination problem. Every component runs hotter; For instance, piston crowns and rings will be running at 280-300C instead of a more normal 240-260C, so it is essential that the oil films on cylinder walls provide an efficient heat path to the block casting, and finally to the coolant. Any breakdown or carbonisation of the oil will restrict the heat transfer area, leading to serious overheating. A modern synthetic lubricant based on true temperature-resistant synthetics is essential for long-term reliability. At 250C+, a mineral or hydrocracked mineral oil, particularly a 5W/X or 10W/X grade, is surprisingly volatile, and an oil film around this temperature will be severely depleted by evaporation loss. Back in the 1970s the solution was to use a thick oil, typically 20W/50; in the late 1980s even 10W/60 grades were used. But in modern very high RPM engines with efficient high-delivery oil pumps thick oils waste power, and impede heat transfer in some situations. A light viscosity good synthetic formulated for severe competition use is the logical and intelligent choice for the 21st century. You must seriously consider a "true" synthetic for "shear stability" and the right level of protection. Petroleum oils tend to have low resistance to “shearing” because petroleum oils are made with light weight basestocks to begin with, they tend to burn off easily in high temperature conditions which causes deposit formation and oil consumption. As a result of excessive oil burning and susceptibility to shearing (as well as other factors) petroleum oils must be changed more frequently than synthetics. True synthetic oils (PAO’s and Esters) contain basically no waxy contamination to cause crystallization and oil thickening at cold temperatures. In addition, synthetic basestocks do not thin out very much as temperatures increase. So, pour point depressants are unnecessary and higher viscosity basestock fluids can be used which will still meet the "W" requirements for pumpability. Hence, little or no VI improver additive would need to be used to meet the sae 30, 40 or 50 classification while still meeting 0W or 5W requirements. The end result is that very little shearing occurs within true synthetic oils because they are not "propped up" with viscosity index improvers. There simply is no place to shear back to. In fact, this is easy to prove by just comparing synthetic and petroleum oils of the same grade. Of course, the obvious result is that your oil remains "in grade" for a much longer period of time for better engine protection and longer oil life. If you would like advice then please feel free to ask.

couldnt agree more mate! really dont see the point in spending over £1k. i pay around £750 fully comp on my own insurance policy at 20 years old soon as I can get insured on a mk5gti or r32 for under a K then im having one.

They do but why push the your products on a forum and pass it off as advice?

Im sure if you become a trader, yes.

So Lupos cease to exist in winter?

I agree, this has nothing to do with a Lupo...

It is one of the my favorites, I use the Pro S 5w-40 in my car. Mark up is neither here nor there, the best for proffit are the semi synthetics as they are quite cheap to buy. Top end synthetics are expensive to start with. Cheers Guy

I don't get involved in buying prices so I have no idea on mark ups. As far as I know, the mark ups are all pretty similar. 0w-40's tend to be good oils so they are a good choice

Casper, the Pro S 5w-30 is a fine oil. You will have no issues with it:) Cheers Guy

Glad you found it usefull! Cheers Guy

That is the most important part. A lot of people think oil is oil and that's it. If you have a car that's producing more power than standard, more heat will be generated and the oil will need to be able to cope with it. If it's not up to the job, things can get a lot more expensive than a tub of decent oil. The best example I have heard of was a guy with a 700bhp Skyline running Tesco value oil on the basis that if he changed it often enough it would be fine. His engine seized which cost a lot more than a £50 oil change

For F*** sake will this traders crappy promotion sh*T PLEASE STOP.

Third party insurance is a waste of money imo. Only a bit cheaper than fully comp, yet if you crash there is a massive difference. Id rather have the peace of mind. Insurance has gone up allot recently I am pleased to be over 21, though I am still paying £1400 a year. Good luck with the save Type-R's are over-rated tbh.

At this time of year, it’s beneficial to use an oil that has good cold start flow properties as it will get to the parts of the engine that need it far more quickly when you turn the key. The "w" number which means winter is the key here and the lower it is the better cold start performance the oil will have. A 15w or 20w rated oil will struggle to get around the engine in very cold temps and we would strongly recommend using a 10w, 5w or 0w for better cold start performance. It is a fact that around 90% of all engine wear occurs on cold start because the oil is at its thickest. The colder it gets the thicker the oil becomes and this affects the rate of flow which affects the rate of wear. These numbers help to explain the oils thickness and therefore cold flow performance at various temperatures. Grade.................At 0C.................At 10C..............At 100C 0W/20.............328.6cSt...............180.8cSt............9cSt 5W/40.............811.4cSt...............421.4cSt............14cSt 10W/50............1039cSt...............538.9cSt............18cSt 15W/50.............1376cSt..............674.7cSt............18cSt 20W/50.............2305cSt...............1015cSt............18cSt Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the thicker the oil. Winters in this country fortunately are not too cold but, compare the thickness of the oil at 0degC and 100degC and you will see the big difference. Just something to consider on the frosty mornings. The Opieoils Team.