[stevenb]

I had a quick glance under the car.
I could not see the sump plug.

Do I have o remove any plastic under trays at all?
Or did I miss it sticking out like a sore thumb? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />

The oil filter looks nice and straight forward. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":shades:" border="0" alt="shades.gif" />

Cheers in advance

Steve

[cardaft]

Yeah you have to take off the undertray, it can be a bit of a chew on but its under there style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

[one litre wonder ;)]

what undertray ? either mine doesnt have one or ive ripped it off on something

[stevenb]

oh...there is one there mate.....
I carried out the work today...all hunky dory.
The only stupid thing I did was to pull out the plastic clips that hold the tray lining in place...DOH!
Oh well. Will fit some small 10mm stainless bolts and washers instead next oil change.

I have two broken clips at the front too....just where the plastic joins the front bumper. Again I'll change them for stainless bolts next time.

I have written an oil change guide if anyone is interested in me posting it on here. Simple I know but it's amazing how many people are put off by an oil change.....they really are simple...No big muscles need etc.

This post has been edited by stevenb: 12 August 2007 - 02:18 PM

[cardaft]

one litre wonder ;), on Aug 12 2007, 01:27 AM, said:

what undertray ? either mine doesnt have one or ive ripped it off on something

1.0's dont have undertrays, i believe only the TDis do have them style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Keeps the engine bay cleaner, but it make them harder to work on style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":angry:" border="0" alt="mad.gif" />

stevenb, on Aug 12 2007, 03:17 PM, said:

I have written an oil change guide if anyone is interested in me posting it on here. Simple I know but it's amazing how many people are put off by an oil change.....they really are simple...No big muscles need etc.

Yeah please, id be interested in that, i know its probably very simple, ive changed my oil on the 1.0 before but not my TDi yet, and its probably about due now.

Have you changed the brake fluid on yours?

I took the cap off my brake fluid today, and there is loads of big bits of stuff floating around in it style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" /> and its quite a dark colour. According to the service history its not been done, even though up until i bought it it had FSSH.

The brakes fade so easily now, i braked hardish from 75 to 0 yesterday and the brakes were cooked! and the clutch was a bit juddery after that. THink thats due to it using the brake fluid for clutch fluid also.

So i think its in desperate need of doing, i was hopeing to wait until i renewed my front discs and pads to change the fluid but i think they have about another 4-5K left in them so it needs doing sooner really.

SO i was thinking how easy is it to do myself? and would i need to bleed the clutch or anything?

I think ill go to Seat tomorrow and see how much they charge, i think it was £30 last time i asked although VW seems to have put its price up now so im not sure about the Seat dealer. Ill go tomorrow and see, and probably book it in.

I just hope if they do it they dont say my brake pipes are corroding due to all the crap thats now in the brake fluid style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" />

[pro3mark]

i had an undertray on the 1.4 sport, just ripped it off when i had the 4 branch fitted

was originally intended as soundproofing as far as i know,

Mark

[stevenb]

Here is my guide for the oil and filter change for a 1.4 TDI S.

Arosa 1.4 TDi S oil and filter change

Tools
1 x 10mm socket 3/8 or 1/2 drive.
1 x 19mm socket 3/8 or 1/2 drive.
Trolley jack and chock/s.
1 x stilson (if you don't have the oil filter cap tool).
Gloves (dirty diesel oil is minging!!!!!)
A rag or two to mop up fluids and wipe off the dirt etc...

Jack up the car (remember to chock the wheels!) enough to gain access to 2 x 10mm bolts which are holding on the plastic under tray. Remove these 2 bolts.
Slide the tray towards the back of the car and pull downwards.
Make a note of where the grooves interlock when removing the tray.

The engine sump bolt is facing towards the rear of the car.
Sump bolt is a 19mm threaded bolt with washer.

Loosen and remove bolt, have drain bowl/tray ready to catch oil.
Make sure oil filler cap is removed to allow better air flow.
Remember to lower the car to allow the oil to drain as much as possible.

Remove the Seat engine plastic cover and place the dipstick to one side.
Once the oil has drained remove the oil filter cap.
Use a stilson to gently loosen off the cap if you haven't got the correct tool.
Unscrew the cap and remove the rubber seal ring at the top of the thread.
Make a note of how tight the cap is. 25nm is required but if it's over tightened it could crack!

Clean it up and refit the new rubber seal ring.
Remove the old oil filter and pop the new one into the cap. It should loosely clip into place.
Screw the cap back on and torque it up gently (25nm) using the stilson.

Jack up the car to refit the sump plug bolt (with washer). Leave the plastic tray off for a moment.
This will allow you to check for any leaks when refilling with new oil.

Refill the oil with 3 x 1 litre sized amounts and then check the level after the oil has settled for a few minutes.
Top up oil accordingly to bring the level up to the max level on the indicator stick.
When satisfied with the level start the engine (don't rev it!) and let it idle for 2-3 minutes.
Turn the engine off and leave to settle.

Lower the car refit the plastic tray (providing you have no leaks and refit the 2 x 10mm bolts.
This is a good time to let the oil settle again before checking the level again.
Lower the car. Refit the Seat plastic engine cover.

Check oil level and top up accordingly. You should expect to put in 4-4.3 litres...no more than that though otherwise it'll mean something is wrong!

Take the car for a slow gentle drive to allow the oil to fully circulate the engine.
Leave the car to settle for 30 mins or so before checking the oil level again.
Frequent checks are important when changing the oil as if you do have a problem it's better to find out while your working on the car rather than the next morning when you have to go to work!

Of course if you have access to a Hydraulic lift or a Pit then it makes things much easier!

Dispose of your oil correctly. Your local Tip should have oil containers.

[stevenb]

I checked my brake fluid and it seems fine. Nice colour and no bits in it.
I will change it in approx 6 months or so....more for peace of mind than nessesity.