Ian Daly

I ought to point out that there's probably nothing really wrong with the clutch, Jools manages, all 8.5 stone of her, it's just that I've got used to the easy to drive Passat. Assuming she passes the mot in the morning the price will rise to £350..just taken these, the tape is a bit OTT, just to stop the broken valance flapping, anyway I've got some yellow tape now 🤣🤣🤣

I'm having a bit of luck with marketplace atm so it'll go on there, will take it down to my friendly mot tester in the morning with crossed fingers, I'm pretty confident it'll pass🙏🤞🙏🤞

So I done the calculations and with the help of tier4 ism, I reckon (due to my circumstances) I'd clear £300 ish on doing Coldplay up, frankly not worth my while. I haven't the time to sell her 'normally' so if anyone here can can come and get her before Wednesday. £150 mot is due 08/01/21 she is taxed to 31/12/20 though that's immaterial, she starts and runs well, clutch is heavy, that said Jools says it's not a problem (all 8.5 stone of her), any interest/question ring me 07941879598

Cheers mk2, hoped you'd give your thoughts, unfortunately I haven't time to work on it have shedloads of things to get done before we return to France next Wednesday, I will (assuming I can) get it mot'd🤔, but clutch is a bit too big a job with the resources I have left here 😕... Ta Ian

Hi all So the permenant move to France has happened, Coldplay is now no longer needed. 2000 1.7 sdi roughly 130k pretty rough state but minimal an only superficial rust on roof only, clutch needs renewal and I reckon she needs timing belt. I'm only the 2nd owner, unfortunately she ain't the £30 tax kinda girl 😕. Thoughts, questions, interest? Situated in Kingston upon Thames. I'll post some photos later. Ian

I have no idea, it strikes me that ALL the spades on the rear are interconnected! No, I'm not kidding. Weirdest switch I have ever seen 🤪 Ian

Ah, I hadn't realised, it's a switch, it's a switch that seem very difficult to get hold of, I'd assume run of the mill stuff like that was easily available fro EuroCar parts, no it had to come (eventually) from Germany. Took the old and knackered on apart, the sprung contact(?) fell out, can't be arsed to figure out where it came from but the of white base on the half to the right hand side is showing some serious wear, dunno, 'electricks' aren't my forte! Ian

Topran? Is that the manufacturer of the linked puller set? Ian

Thank you Silver, never thought one of my post would make it to such heady heights 😎 Ian

Rich, why drill out the barrel when there was nothing wrong with it, moreover you still wouldn't be able to access the fixing bolt and as mk2 says, I keep the existing key/immobiliser. Mk2, the only part I needed in the end was the actual switch unit, the bit behind the key turn (see pic). The sleeve was a pain, the lip is 2mm at best so your average puller is useless, the use of mole grips is not recommended by me but it saved me from taking a 'kin great big hammer to the thing! The spring, your guess is as good as mine but I suppose it ensures the load through the steering column is constant (ish). I haven't taken the switch apart, thought I'd do it better following several beers and a decent nights rest😁 Ian

Finally done it!😁😎 The procedure didn't start too well, could I get the steering wheel off, yes but after nearly an hour! My problem was the centre boss with the air bag would not come away, I'd love to tell you about some magical way that I finally discovered, but there wasn't one, just plain old perseverance and a load of swearing. Wheel outer came off easily to reveal this (1st photo, sorry I've forgotten how to insert pics) Next round of swearing! I had to buy a new three legged puller ready for this, it refused to work, the toes were too rounded to get enough purchase upon the collar, the lip can't be 2mm deep, I tried all sorts to get it to work but it wasn't having it. In the end I resorted to using a 4" pair of mole grips (rounded jaws) wound as tight as possible onto the collar behind the lip and the using the puller with just two legs. I think I got lucky here and off the collar came (pics 2 &3). I removed the interference fit screw, same 4" mole grips, and with a good bit of wiggling the barrel came off (pic4) this revealed the fixing for the switch (pic5). It may well be that it might just be possible to undo that bolt (note: it is a small cross-headed bold and not a screw) from behind, you can see a channel in the barrel casting leading to the bolt, it's a hindsight thing and frankly I'm not convinced it'll work as I seem to remember that it's in at a bit of an angle. Anyway that's it, I put the new switch in, refitted the barrel, replaced a minimum of wires, reconnected the battery and she fire up first ask! Hope this is of use to someone? I'll rename this thread to 'fitting new ignition, switch 2000 Lupo' if I can if not can I get an admin to do it for me please? Any question please don't hesitate to ask, unless you're going to ask me to do it for you, then please hesitate at length! Ian

Will do, hopefully tomorrow, had to buy a hub-puller (arriving today) as I cannot find my old one anywhere ☹️ Ian

Looks like an epidemic then , oh hell, not another ☹️ Ian

Hi all Update (ish) Mk2, had I the time I was going to go down the route of a sneaky on/off switch, but I didn't think I would have the time, I ordered the new part from Autodoc, turns out they're in Germany, use an appalling delivery company , expensive and slow, so I did have the time, had I known! Also as quoted by Sarahs Lupo, no it's not possible to remove it from behind, at least on mine, as the only fixing is only accessible once you've remover the barrel! Unit arrived yesterday afternoon 1st Sept, ordered 24th Aug, now, where did I put my hub puller? Oh, BTW when this first occurred turning the ignition did absolutely nothing, no idiot lights, radio fan anything, last time I turned the key, whilst looking for the rearward removal, position 1 did become available, so I suspect something loose in the actual switch, Bah! Cheers Ian