Jump to content

Was wondering


GeoScars
 Share

Recommended Posts

If anyone knows how to fit central locking and could help me (round luton/bedfordshire area) due to not being able to find a place that'll fit it and i would like to try myself or with the aid of someone who has done it before

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its not just that hahah I have the normal Hawk Central locking kit that has no key fobs, then an alarm immobilizer kit that has key fobs! (hawk HA-240 lite) i want to know how to wire them both in so i have the key fob for the 240 working with the central locking kit :/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its not just that hahah I have the normal Hawk Central locking kit that has no key fobs, then an alarm immobilizer kit that has key fobs! (hawk HA-240 lite) i want to know how to wire them both in so i have the key fob for the 240 working with the central locking kit :/

Why didn't you just make this your first post?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why will no one fit it? No offence is it because it's a crap kit? I've never heard of them plus it sounds like a hard way of doing something, I'm old so it was Clifford and toad when I was growing up but a Toad ai606 with central locking could be fitted for £260.

Have you tried and auto electrian?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like a bizarre kit though Geo. Plenty of kits come all in. Remote central + solenoids + optional alarm.

Will have a look in your other thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to get an all in one kit. One that has the central locking mechanisms plus fobs plus support for an alarm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After many hours of reading diagrams I found out!

Central locking main 12v + ground then the two other wires on the system are the pluses these go to wires on the alarm box after its powered and grounded you then have to ground 2/3 other wires to make it work and boom central locking via remote

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fit it, take some photos, let us know how it all turns out. It should be very straightforward on a 1.0 E.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would place the boxes above the pedals, near the fuse holder.

This

I wired mine in and left the box loose and just put it ontop of the cover that goes above the pedals while i screwed it back up. Easiest place for it to be honest and easy to get access if something starts playing up. Right above the fusebox should you need that too but I didn't at all! Took 12v power from the ignition loom, easy access to indicator wiring also!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can hear the actuators clicking but not actually locking you've mounted the locking rods poorly. If they can't actually pull on the lock mech they revert back to the open position to save killing the actuators.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.