rmumblade Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Since Purchasing a 2001 1.4 16v lupo for my daughter it has been nothing but a constant pain!!!rough running slight juddering all the time and feels like in a form of limp mode always.either EPC or Engine Check lights always on or intermittment.work so far.new plugsnew leadstried new coil pack made no differencecleaned airflow body with card spraytook off and cleaned egr and soaked it but havent replaced it.new front lamda probecleaned rear lamda probenew brake switchalthough car never overheats it always seems hot under the engine.its an AUA engine.checked ecu and looks a little discolured on outside however this could be from where its located ?i am lost for what to do next and nothing so far makes a dam difference.should i change throttle body ?????should i change ecushould i change egr ???please please give any advice if you have experienced similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Scan it with VCDS and check the fault codes, changing the ECU is not as straight forward as plug and play, you need multiple codes on the donor unit to match your old unit, it also needs the pins extracted then it needs coded. It is a huge job and will cost a bomb if you don't have all the software, try ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING before you think about the ECU Step 1 would be getting it scanned with VCDS though, you can get a copy of ebay for around £60 and will be very useful if you have access to more than 1 VAG car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoid Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Yep you really need to invest in VCDS, even if you just buy a cheap lead from Ebay and used VCDS-Lite, it gives you the reading of errors, just you need to click on each module, whereas if you pay for it you can do an auto-scan.As you can see, the approaches you've done have not been successful in the slightest and loads of money wasted, but atleast when you get it working it'll be new parts that will last ages again Have you taken the MAF out and cleaned that? Think Lupos have something called MAP near the air filter, but not sure.A faulty MAF causes juddering etc, and common with VAG cars.Seeing as yoiu've tried everything else, it looks like the MAF (other than ecu) is the only other possibility Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoid Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Whats your engine code? Apprantely you have a MAF and not a MAP, which is good, because you can you clean the MAF but not sure about the MAP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Personally, if you're going to get a VCDS for cheap, get a VCDS-Lite, not one of the £60 ones. The £60 are hacked cables and can be bricked by the software if it gets an internet connection and detects a fake. VCDS-Lite can legally be used with cheap cables, pick it up for less than a tenner.Alternatively, buy an OBD-II scanner and install Torque on Android Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupogtiboy Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Whats your engine code? Apprantely you have a MAF and not a MAP, which is good, because you can you clean the MAF but not sure about the MAPAUA's don't have a MAF sensor (its part of the throttlebody) but do have a MAP sensor in the intake manifold... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoid Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Ah,FYI OPSymptoms of a bad MAP sensorCheck engine light (CEL) is shining nice and bright on the instrument cluster. DTC P0107 MAP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage. DTC P0108 MAP Sensor Circuit High Voltage. Rough idle. ‘Rotten egg’ smell coming from the exhaust. Won't pass the state mandated emissions test. Bad gas mileage. Lack of power, rough idle, or hesitation. Engine cranks a long time before starting.1, 4 & 8, seem your symptoms. But with all things it may not be this at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmumblade Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 so am i right in thinking a map sensor is a lamda probe ? if not what and where is it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoid Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 No, the lambda sorts the oxygen in/for the exhaust systemWhereas the MAP is how much airflow goes to the car, sorts the timing out, right amount of petrol etc, and a faulty ones causes the problems you are having, but as you can see you thought all those other things would cure your problem but haven't, so it's not 100% sure it'll fix it, but considering you've changed everything else that's where I'd go next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmumblade Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 thanks so much have ordered one .i also read that if you disconnected existing one then although light would come on this would tell if sensor was faulty as car should drive better ??not sure if thats true ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoid Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 Well I'm not use to MAP's only MAF's, but from what I can tell, they are certainly similar.That was the case for diagnosing my MAF on my passat, ran like crap. removed it and the car was highly irratic, obviously you shouldn't run without one though for a long time.One thing you must do, is disconnect the battery, plug in new MAP then leave an hour then plug back in and go for a 20 mile drive. It still may run a bit crappy but disconnecting the battery will clear most faults and driving it, is the ECU then learning your new MAP.Fingers crossed it's that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupoluke Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 Before you spend anymore money get the codes read and do a compression test.I would be very surprised if your map sensor was faulty, a missfire will also throw a code up for the map as well caused my the fluctuations caused by a miss fire but it doesn't mean it's faulty. I'd be tempted to open the ecu up as well and inspect for water damage my self and a few others on here have had this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmumblade Posted August 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 Latest update.removed throttle body and cleaned really well and egr pipe etc.renewed gasket and bolted down tight.did a leak test on all hoses and couldnt seen any bubbles replaced map sensor still no difference.car still hunts around 2000 rpm epc light still comes on again after i clear.car will drive okay ish and will go upto 90 mph okay but always seems to just run rough especially noticable at lower speeds and rpms.took it into vag dealer they said.fault code 17961 bariometric sensor collaretion unintrepable or something like that and so he said look for air leaks but i cant find any not even on inlet manifold.WHAT DO I DO NEXT PLEASE PLEASE HELP???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoid Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 (edited) Well the barometic sensor error is related to the MAP I believe. Was it a brand new MAP?Did you do what I said and disconnect the battery? for an hour or more, then you need to do a longish drive.Does your temp guage get to 90 and stay solid? Seem to remember some people having whole heaps of problems and it was down to the coolant temp sensor, can't see how personally.http://www.obd-codes.com/p0106 - Different code, but not many searches come up for the one you listed, which is strange Edited August 9, 2013 by danoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DENTOUT Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 Do the brake lights work?Baro sensor is under manifold, check wiring and operation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmumblade Posted August 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 yes brake lights work baro sensor is the map sensor isnt it ? if so already changed it for a new one ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoid Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 I'm pretty sure they are the same sensor. Give the connectors on the wiring a sray of electrical spray.did you disconnect the battery?BTW, if you get stupidly sick of the car I'll buy it, I live near by Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattz341 Posted August 10, 2013 Report Share Posted August 10, 2013 Standalone BARO sensors are typically mounted on the firewall or the inside fender skirt. Late model BARO sensors are incorporated into the MAP sensor, and may be mounted on the intake manifold. MAP sensors measure the change in pressure in the intake manifold, so the only thing that would cause that too fail would be badly connected hoses or blocked etc or if the diaphragm within the sensor had failed. I'd have thought that the lupo would have a baro sensor built into the MAP. Would be logical! Ill have a nose through some dealer software I've got when I get home and have a nose... The other thing would be too check the wiring and connections from the MAP sensor too the ecu? Could be a dodgy connection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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