ali_shaikh22 Posted June 21, 2013 Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 HelloIve bought my first ever VW lupo, its a 1.4 16v auto and i love it!However, I was driving it normal london conditions - i.e Standstill traffic and the water sign started flashing and the temperature needle had hit 110.Im seriously hoping the gasket isnt blown, i doubt it is as the coolant is a normal colour and there is so far no loss of oilWhen i bought the car it used to run a little cool but i assumed it may have been missing a thermostat. To be honest, after all the overheating issues ive experienced in BMW's i wasnt that bothered if it ran a little cool.I've lost no coolant and no oil. There was no steam being released from anywhere.It feels like the electric fan didnt kick in either but im not 100% sure of this.Seeing as how I have enough oil and coolant, im thinking the thermostat, fingers crossed theres one in there has failed.the hose pipes going to the electric fan ispiping hot, the return pipe or lower pipe is cooler, this is leading me to believe the thermostat is stuck in the closed position and not allowing the water to travel?When i drove with the heating on full blast i got hot air so i know its not a bleeding issue.im thinking of taking the thermostat out for the time being and leaving it out, can i cause any harm doing this for a short while? plus can anybody how to to actually take the stat out? im guessing i squeeze the clip, take the pipe off and the stat should just be there. By the way if i squeeze the clip do I ned to replace the clip or can i stick on a jubilee clip should i need one?Plus once i open it up do i need to bleed the system again?Can anyone please direct me to the bleed valve as well?Any help is much appreciatedTa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini_ash Posted June 21, 2013 Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 do what some people do on there drift cars put a switch on the fan so if you are stuck in trafic or raceing you can turn your fan on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defcon5 Posted June 21, 2013 Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 If the pipe at the entrance to the rad is hot then the stat is working - it's attached to the engine block.Sounds like the fan switch is the problem here if its fine when driving about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupoluke Posted June 21, 2013 Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 What the guy said above it sounds like your stat is working fine to me. Have a search for fan switch it has been covered and update the thread when your done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ali_shaikh22 Posted June 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 Thanks for the responsesHhmm so the electric fan should have come on, ill try and get a new one tomorrow possibly from ecp. If they sell one.Must admit I've never heard it turn on.I forgot to mention, the car overheats whilst driving too and radiator felt quite cold as well as the pipe.Does that mean the water isn't travelling in the engine? Waterpump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defcon5 Posted June 21, 2013 Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 Quite possibly. When was it last changed?Leave the fan for now, check the water is flowing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ali_shaikh22 Posted June 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 Hi I've no idea when the water pump was changed. I fear this is going to be costly.I've read in another post that the relay for the air con also controls the electric fan.When I turn the air con on the fan comes on. If the switch is not working surely the fan wouldn't come on regardless of the air con being on or not OR is the air con and fan power separate to the heating related fan operation?Just been driving and as soon as the temperature starts creeping up I turn the heating on full blast and the temp comes back. I've also tested it by turning on the air con instead of the heating but the temp carried on rising.Utterly confused.....being back the viscous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defcon5 Posted June 21, 2013 Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 Back to your original suggestion, change the stat, could just be half open.If putting the heaters on drops the temp the water pump is working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ali_shaikh22 Posted June 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 ....do you think the fan is working too?By the way I'm mot having much luck finding how to replace the electric fan switch...any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ali_shaikh22 Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Any idea?S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spartan535 Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Had a similar overheating issue with 2 of my cars last year: Mk1 Arosa 1.4 - impeller had come off the pump so no circulation - changed the cam belt at the same time - solved problem. Volvo V40 - rad fan is controlled by the ECU - spent a lot of cash with two auto electricians and didn't solve the problem. In the end just got another auto-spark to fit a £2 flick switch - again that problem solved. The cheap option would have been just to run the air-con - as in a Volvo this is on a different circuit, Park it - run the engine but watch the temp gauge - fan should kick in about 95 degrees - before it goes red - if it does then may be pump - if it doesn't wire the fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derv Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 If you put the AC on, does the radiator fan come on? I suspect not.VAG fan controllers seem to have a habit of corroding and failing.I have one to fix sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ali_shaikh22 Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 when i turn the AC on the fan does come on and i do get cold air in the cabin.Oh well ive replaced the fan switch and got rid of the thermostat.I cant imagine it will overheat without a thermostat. Do i really really need one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derv Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 At least that proves the cooling fan works. Otherwise the AC air will get warm when the car is stationary.The problem is most probably on the radiator switch side, either a bad connection somewhere, or the temperature sensor.Removing the thermostat will only buy you a little extra time. Once the system warms up, there is still nothing to cool it if the car is not moving at speed. Unless you use the heater blower.Removing the thermostat will worsen fuel economy, and could cause additional engine wear in the long term. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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