1.4 Auto Arosa - starting problem, central locking woes, auto box and exhaust!

[StuM]

Hi All,

We bought our 98 Arosa 1.4 Auto (66k miles) a couple of months back and are generally really pleased with it, but there are a few problems of late that you might be able to help with....

1. The exhaust has always been noisy - top gear at 65mph on the motorway it is really noisy, loud drone. Sounds to me like it might be blowing a bit, but someone told me that they "all sound like that". I don't believe this for a second, do you agree?

2. The central locking is stubborn. On the passenger side it is always ok, but drivers side it always unlocks, but often only locks the drivers door - leaving passenger side unlocked. Recently, it has started randomly trying to unlock the doors (which are already unlocked!) as I've been driving it! Any ideas?! The service history shows that many of the central locking parts were changed by the owner before last.

3. The car is an auto and when it is cold the 1st to 2nd gear change is always very 'hard' - ie. thumps in very harshly. Once warmed up it is very smooth. All other changes are fine.

4. The final and most urgent problem is that the car went in for MOT last week, and past fine... from that evening onwards (and it must be coincidence..) the car has had starting issues. Basically, it turns over and fires fine, but won't idle and then cuts out. If I use the throttle and keep revs on, it is fine, but being an auto, as soon as it is put in gear, it cuts out. Once warmed up, no problem.. and it runs fine. The car was very low on fuel the first time that this happened, so I am thinking fuel filter maybe? Other things I have found on here are clogged up throttle body and coolant temperature sensor. Which of these would you try first? How easy is it to get to the throttle body to give it a carb cleaner squirt?

Sorry for the barrage of questions, and thanks in advance for any help you might be able to offer.

Cheers,

Stu

[StuM]

Hello,

Just thought I'd post up to say that after cleaning out the throttle body, putting some Wynns injector cleaner through (in the petrol) and having a couple of decent long runs, the car is now running very well.

To update the other issues... drivers door lock now doesn't work at all and having taken the door cards off I realised that there is no easy way to see what the problem is

The auto box is still banging into 2nd gear - an auto box specialist I spoke to suggested it might be a sensor that has broken - and that it would need to be plugged into a diagnostic machine.

Can anyone advise me of a decent Seat dealer in SW London please? I know that there is one in Wimbledon, but can't find any 'reviews'. Also.. would VW dealers work on an Arosa? There is one very close to me...

Thanks

Stu

[adrianuk]

Hi Stu

Pleased you put in petrol cleaner, my Seat Dealership says that doing that once a year is good, as what happens in the winter when you open to fill your tank with petrol, is cold air fills the void, then condenses to water. This water then causes issues when you run low on fuel. The 'cleaner' actually emulsifies the water/petro mix resolving these issue.

Also the coolant thermostat does and can cause starting issues. Any dealer with the Diagnostics will not pick it up, apart from temperature variations not making sense.

The 1 - 2nd gear change thud or jerk, is typical in the auto box and I have copied and pasted an excerpt here for you to read below:

Recalls

SEAT has admitted a cold weather fault with the 1.4 automatic, manifesting itself in a loud noise when changing up from 1st to 2nd gear. Replacement parts are fitted free. June 2002: 120,000 Polos, Lupos and Arosas built during 1998 and 1999 recalled because cracks in the brake vacuum pipe could lead to loss of servo assistance to the brakes. Recall hotline: 0800 711811. (Official 6-7-2002: 7,157 Arosas recalled because tension cracks in vacuum pipe to brake servo may occur. Pipes to be checked and replaced if necessary. Stu - parts not fitted free once car is out of warrantee I don't think!?

I have had mine since demonstrator and the auto gearbox had a valve chest design issue, I still live with the cold weather fault(1-2nd thud) till it warms up. Now however I get gear change issues from 4th to third gear, which is a sign in need of an Automatic Gearbox oil change...which my dealer in Croydon - Kinghams are specialists in and only charge around £70 all in. They need to order a few parts, as it it needs re-sealing once the special ATF oil is replaced, after draining.

Driving to my dealership is a bit further out, but they have been going for years now and being family run, know all the issues - so call them and say that I recommended you:) That will make em more willing to please lol.

Hope that helps!

Adrian - in London

Hello,

Just thought I'd post up to say that after cleaning out the throttle body, putting some Wynns injector cleaner through (in the petrol) and having a couple of decent long runs, the car is now running very well.

To update the other issues... drivers door lock now doesn't work at all and having taken the door cards off I realised that there is no easy way to see what the problem is

The auto box is still banging into 2nd gear - an auto box specialist I spoke to suggested it might be a sensor that has broken - and that it would need to be plugged into a diagnostic machine.

Can anyone advise me of a decent Seat dealer in SW London please? I know that there is one in Wimbledon, but can't find any 'reviews'. Also.. would VW dealers work on an Arosa? There is one very close to me...

Thanks

Stu

[adrianuk]

Hi Stu

Kinghams did not sort out my uato gearbox at all as it turns out. I finaly have gotten to the bottom of the mystery as mine was having issues with 1st to 2nd gear change. The best people to take your car to are Wimbledon Automatics: 182 Hartfield Road, Wimbledon

London, SW19 3TQ They told me that there is a history with the Arosa/Lupo/Polo engine - usually related to solenoids and easy to repair. I had been told about the solenoid problem before I took it there. My car is still with them, so will give you a report back when they have done the work.

All going well I will write to Auto Express Magazine as a thanks - so fingers crossed.

The guy who runs the family run business at Wimbledon Automatics is called Derek. Say Adrian with the same make of car sent you:)

Cheers

Adrian

Hi Stu

Pleased you put in petrol cleaner, my Seat Dealership says that doing that once a year is good, as what happens in the winter when you open to fill your tank with petrol, is cold air fills the void, then condenses to water. This water then causes issues when you run low on fuel. The 'cleaner' actually emulsifies the water/petro mix resolving these issue.

Also the coolant thermostat does and can cause starting issues. Any dealer with the Diagnostics will not pick it up, apart from temperature variations not making sense.

The 1 - 2nd gear change thud or jerk, is typical in the auto box and I have copied and pasted an excerpt here for you to read below:

Recalls

SEAT has admitted a cold weather fault with the 1.4 automatic, manifesting itself in a loud noise when changing up from 1st to 2nd gear. Replacement parts are fitted free. June 2002: 120,000 Polos, Lupos and Arosas built during 1998 and 1999 recalled because cracks in the brake vacuum pipe could lead to loss of servo assistance to the brakes. Recall hotline: 0800 711811. (Official 6-7-2002: 7,157 Arosas recalled because tension cracks in vacuum pipe to brake servo may occur. Pipes to be checked and replaced if necessary. Stu - parts not fitted free once car is out of warrantee I don't think!?

I have had mine since demonstrator and the auto gearbox had a valve chest design issue, I still live with the cold weather fault(1-2nd thud) till it warms up. Now however I get gear change issues from 4th to third gear, which is a sign in need of an Automatic Gearbox oil change...which my dealer in Croydon - Kinghams are specialists in and only charge around £70 all in. They need to order a few parts, as it it needs re-sealing once the special ATF oil is replaced, after draining.

Driving to my dealership is a bit further out, but they have been going for years now and being family run, know all the issues - so call them and say that I recommended you:) That will make em more willing to please lol.

Hope that helps!

Adrian - in London

[StuM]

Hi Adrian,

Sorry for not getting back to you earlier - I got an e-mail notification for your latest reply, but not the earlier one - guess it was spam filtered out or something...

Thanks for the info, all of which is very useful. Please do let me know if you get to the bottom of the 1st-2nd change issue.. whilst I try and avoid the thud (by lifting right off until it changes up), that is not always possible.. and I do fear that damage could occur. If it can be sorted easily, I'll definately get it along to Wimbledon - my other car is on the market at the moment and the Arosa will be our only car for a time, so I'd love to make it 100%.

Cheers,

Stu

[StuM]

Hi All,

One suggestion that was made to me to help with the 1-2 gearchange issue was to change the gearbox oil. The car went into Seat for its 70k mile service last weekend and they also changed the gearbox oil.... and it made no difference. I might get it booked into Wimbledon Autos for their opinion.

Cheers,

Stu

[adrianuk]

Hi Stu

My problems were slightly more than yours, funny my 1st to 2nd was good after oil change, but I do know there were design issues with the valve chest with the Arosa. Wimbledon Auto's may have a sollution....but who knows. I sold my car 'as is' and now own a Citroen C1 which is great to drive, but is not automatic.

Hope you get it sorted in the end.

Adrian

Hi Adrian,

Sorry for not getting back to you earlier - I got an e-mail notification for your latest reply, but not the earlier one - guess it was spam filtered out or something...

Thanks for the info, all of which is very useful. Please do let me know if you get to the bottom of the 1st-2nd change issue.. whilst I try and avoid the thud (by lifting right off until it changes up), that is not always possible.. and I do fear that damage could occur. If it can be sorted easily, I'll definately get it along to Wimbledon - my other car is on the market at the moment and the Arosa will be our only car for a time, so I'd love to make it 100%.

Cheers,

Stu

[petronille]

Hi Adrian/Stu (and/or anyone else),

I've just found this thread. I have an Arosa 1.4 Auto, it is a great little runner but, like yours, I have the 'banging' problem when going from 1st to 2nd gear when the car is 'cold'... I was wondering if you have ever found out why this 'bang' happens?

Many thanks, S.

Edited August 15, 2010 by petronille

[StuM]

I was wondering if you have ever found out why this 'bang' happens?

Many thanks, S.

Hi there,

Sorry, never did find out. I rang Wimbledon Autos, but they wanted £80 to just look at the car, so I lost interest at that point! We hardly use ours, and now just live with it. I found that if you lift off the throttle just as it is about to change up, and don't apply throttle until it is in 2nd gear, it is ok. Not ideal in all situations, I know.

I 'threw away' £130 getting Seat to change the gearbox oil which failed to cure it.

If you do find out what's wrong, I'd be interested to hear.

Thanks,

Stu

[petronille]

I've just had 'Rosa serviced at SMC Datchet (picked it up this morning). I mentioned that there was a problem with the gear change beforehand, but they couldn't 'fault it'...

I have been doing what you suggest ie. lift off the throttle just as it is about to change up, but it doesn't make any difference.

So like you, I'm learning to live with it...

It's a shame because it's an otherwise very good little car.

[harrylucas]

Hi All,

We bought our 98 Arosa 1.4 Auto (66k miles) a couple of months back and are generally really pleased with it, but there are a few problems of late that you might be able to help with....

1. The exhaust has always been noisy - top gear at 65mph on the motorway it is really noisy, loud drone. Sounds to me like it might be blowing a bit, but someone told me that they "all sound like that". I don't believe this for a second, do you agree?

2. The central locking is stubborn. On the passenger side it is always ok, but drivers side it always unlocks, but often only locks the drivers door - leaving passenger side unlocked. Recently, it has started randomly trying to unlock the doors (which are already unlocked!) as I've been driving it! Any ideas?! The service history shows that many of the central locking parts were changed by the owner before last.

3. The car is an auto and when it is cold the 1st to 2nd gear change is always very 'hard' - ie. thumps in very harshly. Once warmed up it is very smooth. All other changes are fine.

4. The final and most urgent problem is that the car went in for MOT last week, and past fine... from that evening onwards (and it must be coincidence..) the car has had starting issues. Basically, it turns over and fires fine, but won't idle and then cuts out. If I use the throttle and keep revs on, it is fine, but being an auto, as soon as it is put in gear, it cuts out. Once warmed up, no problem.. and it runs fine. The car was very low on fuel the first time that this happened, so I am thinking fuel filter maybe? Other things I have found on here are clogged up throttle body and coolant temperature sensor. Which of these would you try first? How easy is it to get to the throttle body to give it a carb cleaner squirt?

Sorry for the barrage of questions, and thanks in advance for any help you might be able to offer.

Cheers,

Stu

Its probably blowing, but if not check the hangers, they can loosen themselves

[petronille]

The auto box is still banging into 2nd gear - an auto box specialist I spoke to suggested it might be a sensor that has broken - and that it would need to be plugged into a diagnostic machine.

Hi,

"I have spoken to a reputable Auto gearbox specialist as mentioned above (Wimbledon Automatics, 020 8540 6624) and they said if the 1st – 2nd bumps happens all the time, ie beyond the initial few minutes running, then it is a solenoid valve issue (£500+).

BUT IF IT IS only the initial one or two changes then it is the VAG CPU design (believe it or not) making first gear (solenoid valve) hold on to the revs in 1st to get the cat and exhaust system up to working temp as quickly as possible to get past emissions regulations.

This rings true because there is no way the gearbox oil could warm up in the first few moments, thus snuffing out the theory of hot oil thinning and easing the change. This is the same for VAG 1.4 auto Arosas, Lupos and Polos of the same age. So, unless anyone knows how to re-program a CPU, I am told that, as long as you don’t floor it when cold, the bump won’t do any harm. It’s only the startup and then all is smooth. Live with it. Tough reliable little cars."

Obviously, I didn't talk to them personally, my other half did, hence all the detailed tecky stuff!

Hope this helps.

Edited September 28, 2010 by petronille