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Casper's Supercharged GTi - MK Indy Hayabusa Turbo - 413bhp/243ftlb


CasperGTI
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ECT? estimated competion time? - monday on the road, will be completly finished two weeks after that id think.

What else does ECT stand for?

Ive dreamed about this part for a long time.... even though its been pushed back and back, to hear it spring to life (all be it a bit lumpy) really makes me feel like ive acheived something!

John

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ECT? estimated competion time?

Yes mate, I knew an engineer would know that :)

monday on the road, will be completly finished two weeks after that id think.

You must be so excited!

Does it still have MOT?

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I have had to struggle to learn how to bolt up my gearbox, and fit an engine (I fitted my second myself for the first time, and still ended up with the power steering pipe behind my sump.

Mate, anyone who can do the work you have done is an engineer in my eyes.

Santa Pod dude!

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Yes pod will be on the list. Im doing gti summer fest 5th june? or july?? cant remember, so it will have a few runs then. And i might have learnt how to launch the beast by then without fish tailing in to the nearest wall!

John

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I'm hoping to have my Polo mapped and the knackered rear shocks replaced by then.

I'll try to make it, strap the camera mount to my bonnet and get a mint video of it!

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Ok been down to it today too, done a few bits so heres a nice update.

I am running both ecu's, the emerald to control basically everything bar the aircon controller, airbags, headlights, fuel pump and a few other bits. Cant remove the oem one completly because of some of these features wont work on the emerald. But we have worked out a way of diabling the epc and check lights after reading through loads of the wiring diagrams this morning.

Im not running VVT at the moment, we will see how it goes when running in and then work on that later on in the mapping stages. Whilst the cars been at the workshop having the ecu wired in, ive been learning to map it slowly, although its very difficult to get my head round! Loom has the options for aircon, switchable map and shift light as and when i need them.

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Made a custom 2.5 inch stainless steel intake pipe to get past the oil pressure switch. Just needs a bit more filling and then polishing up. Or wrapping depending on the inlet temperatures when driving.

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Bodywork has been undergoing some changes, just needs a final polish when its back on the car next week:

Front:

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Rear: (got no pics of it in colour) Not fitted untill after MOT of course! ;)

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MK5 golf handle has now been finished after alot of work, just the spoiler to fit after its been repaired, and finish the wiring task.

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Got some high end tuning to be done tomorrow, and have to smooth out the map when the engine loads up and the dump valve shuts, as theres quite a surge there atm. MOT is tomorrow afternoon, and i collect it tomorrow evening. Then just got to change the coil pack once i get my new one on weds, tart her up a little, and take her on a long running in drive! Aiming to have her completly run in and finished in the next two weeks, its all nearly over, and i dont have a clue what im going to do next!

John

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I really dont know to be honest, i was in the mindset that it was put there for emissions, and then over 5500rpm it gave the car that little bit more kick.

Going to play about with it over the next few weeks anyway so all will come apparent.

John

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I am a bit confused by your rear bumper, no rear plate :confused:

Yeah well i wanted it to be different in some places. Nearly had the gutters smothed on the roof too but decided against it in the end.

It will have a plate, but on a removable u shaped bracket that comes from the under side of the bumper. With a light attatched to it, But removed for shows etc. Same sort of thing for the front too, running square plates i would think.

John

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Great job this looks amazin :D

I want your car so much but finish it off 1st then you can give it me :D

jokes lol

I'm sure your going to have lots of fun with it when its finished.

Body work looks spot on would like to see the rear bumper sprayed up as i've never seen that done before...

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Looks like its all gone a bit wrong,

Started to smoke more today, the rings havent seated propperly i think, and now after 50 miles of driving i think there is only one thing left to do..... Going to have to take the head off and start from scratch again i think. Its such a shame, im gutted infact, but hey ho i know it works and the 50 miles ive have had me with the biggest grin on my face ever!

Although i drove it, ive got to say, its fooking fast! the pick up it too feirce atm, trying to run it in is very difficult as tickling the throttle hits boost, and your away. Its just the fast idle where the car plumes out smoke. Can only be piston rings in this case sadly, but these things are here to test you.

First time ive done this so theres bound to be something wrong somewhere, She will return shortly......

Now to my desk where i can work out whats gone wrong! it will not beat me, im stronger than it!

John

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Looks like its all gone a bit wrong,

Started to smoke more today, the rings havent seated propperly i think, and now after 50 miles of driving i think there is only one thing left to do..... Going to have to take the head off and start from scratch again i think. Its such a shame, im gutted infact, but hey ho i know it works and the 50 miles ive have had me with the biggest grin on my face ever!

Although i drove it, ive got to say, its fooking fast! the pick up it too feirce atm, trying to run it in is very difficult as tickling the throttle hits boost, and your away. Its just the fast idle where the car plumes out smoke. Can only be piston rings in this case sadly, but these things are here to test you.

First time ive done this so theres bound to be something wrong somewhere, She will return shortly......

Now to my desk where i can work out whats gone wrong! it will not beat me, im stronger than it!

John

Thats the good thing about running the engine in on a dyno, easy to bed in the rings. You can get this glaze busting oil designed for the probs you have, may work but I can't find a link..... I've used it once and it did work, but it gives cr*p oil pressure. Will look at work tomorrow.

Run a cylinder leakage test if you can get kit to see whats going on.

What oil are you running??

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10W40 mineral oil, as standard as you can get bog standard oil.

Taking the plugs out, and its constant accross all the cylinders. Cylinder leak check wont really do much as theres oil leakage in the bores, and oil seals the rings so i couldnt really get a correct reading form it.

Its got to boil down to these rings i have, total seal rings have been known to do things like this, especially when you done get the 100% correct finish on the bore to start with.

I plan to take the head off, Drop the sump and remove the pistons, check the bore and check the pistons. Measure it all up and see if theres anything wrong. The pistons were made the the same size as the originals and had rings made to suit them to the bore. I just cant work it out. But then again, its all gone too smoothly for it to be perfect!

John

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10W40 mineral oil, as standard as you can get bog standard oil.

Taking the plugs out, and its constant accross all the cylinders. Cylinder leak check wont really do much as theres oil leakage in the bores, and oil seals the rings so i couldnt really get a correct reading form it.

Its got to boil down to these rings i have, total seal rings have been known to do things like this, especially when you done get the 100% correct finish on the bore to start with.

I plan to take the head off, Drop the sump and remove the pistons, check the bore and check the pistons. Measure it all up and see if theres anything wrong. The pistons were made the the same size as the originals and had rings made to suit them to the bore. I just cant work it out. But then again, its all gone too smoothly for it to be perfect!

John

Yer, I've used TS rings in the past, most people recommend a 2 stage honing process finishing off with a nylon abrasive (basically Scotchbrite) when using TS rings. Are you using gapless top ring, top and second??

Did you gap the rings, with the blower(not that have any experience here) the end gaps would need increasing I would have guessed.

If you top and tail it again, you will need to de-glaze the bores again, and maybe re-ring.

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Gapless top ring, conventional second ring the oil ring. All gapped up to total seals recomendations, but not finished to the same standard of finish i dont think. So thats where i think the slip up may lie, But ill be able to tell when i have it appart again, and i cant see that it would make that great deal of difference, I have a feeling i have a ring problem somewhere. mabe the block needs fe finishing again and they may seat then. I really dont know untill i take it appart.

To be honest its not going to take too long to sort it out, a weekend will see it stripped and all the problems sorted i would think. I just enjoy taking it appart now!

Ive got another problem too, since wiring up the ecu, the brake lights have stopped working....... just the brake lights nothing else, which is weird. Something to do with the phenomina called EPC i think.

Well atleast she is at home now, i can work on her as much as i like again. Shame that i still cant drive it.....

John

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shame mate, mines going to be two weeks before roaded as still working out a way to get past the air flow sensor issue etc, but she will come good. projects like this never run sweet straight away but main thing is that shes home and 99.9 percent done

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Ah yeah i know, its just a bit of a bugger to have to do it again, theres a few things i want to do so i suppose this is the chance!

Ive now narrowed it down to the rings, After checking the breather and oil filler and finding quite substansial pressure at those places, there is a large ammount of blow by on the rings it seems, im putting it down to the car doing too much idleing when fresh and it glazing the bores before the rings had seated, and the fact the bores surface finish may not have been correct for the ring application.

Plan is to take the head and sump off in the car, take out the pistons and rods, clean up the pistons and make sure all the rings arent damaged and are in the correct position.

Im going to check the bore size just to make sure, but im pretty sure the rings and pistons are right for the bore as i cant hear any slapping, and the rings were correctly gapped up and had the correct wall clearance.

Then i am going to ball hone the cylinders to a 240 grit finish. And refit the pistons and original total seal rings, put it back together again and try again.

If That does not work, then im going to do it again, but with a set of oem rings. Total seal rings are known for either being amaising, or not working.... hence my predicerment i think!

John

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