VWR Lupo Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 Looks like its coming on nicely mate style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v3rmin Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 That is going to look sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupojunkie88 Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 That is going to look sweetdamn right style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eXXXtreme arosa Posted November 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 QUOTE(v3rmin @ Nov 24 2006, 05:50 PM) That is going to look sweetdamn right style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> cheers lads got a few layers to go and alot of filling. shaping and smoothing but i cant wait to see it all painted up sitting pretty in my boot and pumping out some phat bass style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> expecting around 130db but dunno yet style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> long way off finding that out hehe. got a db meter now though style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> speakers alone reach 119db style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eXXXtreme arosa Posted December 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />i put enough layers on untill it was all yellow which was about 6-7 layers later. then i used my gelcoat to completely seal in the fibres and fill in most of the dips.670ml of filler later........ border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />a further 400ml later...... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />ive been rubing it down with 60 grit paper for now till im happy with the shapes and contours. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":wub:" border="0" alt="wub.gif" /> will look amazing when its all painted and uber smooth style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tshirt2k Posted December 5, 2006 Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 Looks good mate! I Would have thought you would need to brace that sub in a bit better!! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Just bought one of those Subs from CAD With an Alpine Ported Box fo £99. To go in a Mk3 Golf. Looks quite well made. Was gonna go for the MRD 605 amp. Would have thught the 1005 would be a bit too much for the sub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eXXXtreme arosa Posted December 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 (edited) Looks good mate! I Would have thought you would need to brace that sub in a bit better!! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Just bought one of those Subs from CAD With an Alpine Ported Box fo £99. To go in a Mk3 Golf. Looks quite well made. Was gonna go for the MRD 605 amp. Would have thught the 1005 would be a bit too much for the sub.nah better having too much power than not enough. the 1005 run 1000watts rms at 14.4volts and 1800 watts peak, the peak on the sub is 1500 watts so i think its very well matched. the ring is screwed to the back and front mdf panels of the box and was glued then fibreglass pasted in. the curves of the box are more than strong enough to support it, that's part of the reason the box is as curvy as it is around the baffle ring makes it stronger style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> cant wait to feel the 65mm excursion!!!!!! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />cheers for the comments bud let me know how she sounds when u hook it up style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Edited December 5, 2006 by eXXXtreme arosa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eXXXtreme arosa Posted December 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />its all here now, 1 meter of 0 guage, my 4 guage cables are run, posi and negy terminals, massive 4 anl fuse holder, smaller 3 agu fuse holder, rca's, terminals, power caps the lot. already to be wired up now style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> very pleased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash_s3 Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 you thought about using 'flashing tape' as sound deadening?its exactly the same as dynamat / brownbread etc its used in the roofing trade and can get it from most DIY places, B&Q etc.Very cheap just dosent look as pretty as dynamat, but whos going to see it?!?!RegardsAsh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eXXXtreme arosa Posted December 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 (edited) border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />how the positive battery will be hooked up style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />nah mate there's a huge difference in materials i can get a bulk pack of stinger expert, 36square feet for 110 quid there is a difference, flashing tape is plastic backed not foil backed, the foil turns vibration in to tiny amounts of heat and by sides that sound deadening sticks a lot better and peels less than bitumen tapes.from stinger website...."ROADKILL Sound Damping Materials: The technology behind the development of all RoadKill materials is a direct result of noise control products used in the aerospace and aircraft industries. The materials used in the manufacturing of all RoadKill products exhibit the highest sound damping properties available anywhere with the added benefit of the lightest weight per square foot. This is accomplished by arresting the vibration energy in the vehicle's body panels that would normally be converted into sound and converting it into miniscule amounts of heat. By lowering the noise floor and reducing body panel flex in a vehicle, Stinger RoadKill gives the sound system more dynamic range and higher SPL.EXPERT RoadKill utilizes highly advanced vibration damping technology with high temperature resistance up to 400°F. Unique adhesive/damping composition results in unmatched adhesion that actually increases over time. Super adhesion and conformability provides maximum surface contact- critical for high performance damping. Four (4)mil aluminum constraining layer creates high temperature performance and superior damping characteristics."flashing tapes peel off when heated up to about 60 degrees Edited December 6, 2006 by eXXXtreme arosa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash_s3 Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 ah i see mate, ive just heard of people using it as a cheap alternative!looking good mate, will look forward to seeing it complete! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nfbr Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 power capsWhat in gods name for ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stig247 Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 shouldnt of bothered wasting your money on the power caps should have invested that money into a better battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steffro Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 (edited) What the hell is that wiring diagram all about? Why is there positive terminals going to the car? Surely that is just asking for a short?There are foil backed flashing tapes available. The rubber based sound proofing is better though, but the thing about the foil taking in heat is bull crap, the amount of heat is minimal and I doubt it makes any difference. Also, since when does english weather get to 60 degrees? Unless you are putting it in the engine bay it prob wont fall off, maybe on a roof or a black door direct to metal might have problems. Power caps prob put more strain on power supply than anything!Sorry, just read that and it all sounds very negative, your workmanship looks awesome and I wish I could create something like that! Bet it will sound nice to. Edited December 6, 2006 by Steffro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nfbr Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 Power caps - Unless you have a very good power supply (i.e. powerful alternator, and good capacity battery), a capacitor will be absolutely pointless as it wont work anywhere near as well as it is supposed to.And if you do have a very good power supply... You wont need a capacitor anyway! as one wouldn't make the slightest difference! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 is it one farad to every 1000rms, or something even then it only really if you park up with ur engine off thats its gonna help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tigz™ Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 its exactly the same as dynamat No it is not!Its nothing like!I have bot flashing tape, and Dynamat extreme in my Car.Trust me, they are completly different! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steffro Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 If you think about how a capacitor works - it stores energy. It doesnt create it, so that is the first thing to consider, you are getting no extra power from any where!However, when a big bass note comes along on your car system, the voltage may drop below normal, which means we lose power to the music, and other electical items in the car may be affected (dimming lights etc)The capacitor is charged to the same voltage as the battery, when this voltage drops the capacitor will discharge quickly to the same level as the voltage across it, so therefore it will provide a little extra energy when the big bass comes along and stop the lights dimming etc...however this effect is minimal as I will show at the end. however, as soon as the voltage rises again, the capacitor then sucks energy out of the system to recharge itself. A capcitor will discharge most of it's stored charge very quickly, however it will take longer to recharge it to full power (not goin into the theory of exponential curves).Therefore the alternator is doing more work to charge the capacitor and power the music. Capacitors do have their uses in smoothing AC signals of unwated frequencies (can have applications in regard to sound quality, not volume), however this is the last of your worries in a car, and most amps will have plenty of caps inside to sort out there own transformers etc.Ill put some numbers in also to show you - Energy in the cap = 0.5xCxV^2 which in the average car = 0.5x1x(13)squared (using 13v as a round figure)= 84.5 joules.When we are talking about 1000+wrms amps, this amount of energy is dissipated in less than 0.1 secs so all seems pretty pointless! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eXXXtreme arosa Posted December 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2006 i bought them for 60 quid there over 200 pound retail, there for show that why i bought them coz they looked nice and help keep the voltage output to the amp smooth. im gona get a stinger yellow top battery and a bigger alternator, probably a diesel one. just need abit of help.... will the diesel alternator fit??? nfbr can you take a pic of ya alternator for me? cheers for the comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eXXXtreme arosa Posted December 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 yday i decided to do abit more wiring in the car...with all this current the amps ect are goin to draw i though i mite need to have a look at the earth cable to battery situation. its all fine and dandy putting whoping power cables in but expecting it to return though the one wire to the batery i though was abit much.i started by locating the main ground point of the car nearest the battery... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />passenger side below the headlight... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />i chopped off the short cable that wen to the battery at the ground terminal.... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />then i hooked up some 4 guage to the grounding point and ran it to the new terminal and added an additional wire to half the resistance and improve the return path style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steffro Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> So how does that work? Im just curious why the positive terminal is going to the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eXXXtreme arosa Posted December 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 (edited) So how does that work? Im just curious why the positive terminal is going to the car?no there the existing positive wires on the car! im replacing the black distribution block that all lupos and arosas have on top of the battery the ones labled car are one already there and the amp ones are the new ones i have installed. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />^^^^^^^as pictured here ^^^^^^^ Edited December 9, 2006 by eXXXtreme arosa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steffro Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Ahh right ok, cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eXXXtreme arosa Posted December 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Ahh right ok, coolsorry my picture was just a scribble i used to work out how many holders and fuse positions i needed style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eXXXtreme arosa Posted December 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2006 done some more yday! done all the positive wiring and installed fuse holders now border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />this is what i wanted to get rid of and replace.... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />i set to work removing it all from the battery border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />i then extended all the wires by around 5inches... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />little fuse holder for 20 and 30 amp fuses.... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />big one for amp fuses and large car fuses 80 and 110 amp ones..... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />everything wired up!!!! border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />fitted a switch to stop the power all being drained from the car over nite by leds and terminal display border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />GLOWWING style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> should do the job nicely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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