Max69vk Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 A few of weeks ago I bought these wheels off a guy on E38 border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />They were described as needing a clean up, but the idea was that I would just use as temporary rims while I refurbed my Enzo Cups. After paying the guy £120 for them (a little too much in retrospect) I waited for the courier to deliver them so I could get cracking on the other rims.... After they were delivered it finally sunk in how badly these needed a refurb (maybe me being a little fussy), the rims were scuffed all round with the paint partly stripped on one due to brake fluid(?). The wheels had started life as being all silver but at some point the spokes appear to have been painted by Stevie Wonder, the surface underneath had not been keyed up properly in places so the paint was flaking, in other places the paint had 'seperated' due to surface contamination, & I found runs that long even Paula Radcliffe wouldn't entertain them! Yet despite all these faults there was something about these wheels that I really really liked (still trying to figure out what) so I decided to sort them out before they went on the car.At about the same time I decided to clean up the wheels I received another item in the post that was meant to be used on the Enzo Cups, border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />My polishing kit! After having to think about it for a whole 10 seconds I decided that rather than just repainting the wheels, I would get some practise in & just repaint the spokes in a satin black finish & then mirror polish the lips to really contrast aginst them. Before anyone says it i know black isn't very original (hence the reason for going satin as its a little different), but these are/were meant to only be temporary wheels & body coloured centres would limit me if I wanted to sell them on again. Upshot of all this is that im taking lots of pictures during each stage of the repair & prep, so that if anybody else wants to give it a go they can use this almost as a guide or for a reference on where to start. Thats all for now folks, will update this later tonight style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyp Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 nice rims as well mate...after you bring them back to new, think youve got yourself a bargain.what size are they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_M Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 Can't see the pics but will a little effort or possibly a lot style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> as I found, you can get some nice wheels.I paid £75 for my 16's but think they are worth loads more now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted July 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 (edited) nice rims as well mate...after you bring them back to new, think youve got yourself a bargain.what size are they?15", only bought some that size so I could swap the tyres over from my current wheels whilst I refurbed them. Here's some pictures of how they arrived, scuffs, flaking, runs & all the other imperfections too! border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />To be honest they dont look that bad in theses pics, but I think that is more down to the fact that the sun was belting down on the painted silver rims making them look very shiny. Edited July 19, 2006 by Max69vk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted July 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 (edited) 1st thing to do was to strip the old paint off the rims to establish the damage that would need to be repaired to them, as I couldn't find anywhere local to acid dip them I was left with the very messy & labourious task of using Nitromors. This process can take a while to work properly as although the Nitromors will remove the top layers of laquer & paint, it will take several coats to remove the etch primer underneath. After applying the paint stripper you wil see the paint start to bubble & lift, leave each application for at least 10-15 minutes to fully attack the paint &/or primer. To remove the paint & stripper, scrape it off using a plastic scraper not metal, & dont use normal wire wool. If you use a metal scraper or wire wool you will run the risk of putting a deep scratch or marks into the rim that will only mean that you have even more work & rubbing down to do when you get to that stage (instead of wire wool you can try using a brillo pad as they are much softer).This picture shows a rim after 2 applications of paint stripper. As you can see there is still plenty of primer still on the rim, it took another 3 coats to remove the remainders (moral of the story.... if can get acid dipping, do it!). border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />After stripping all of the paint & primer from the lips the scuffing appeared to be better than it first appeared, there are several different ways to remove the deep scuffs, many people use body files however I prefer to use an orbital sander starting with 180 grit sanding pads, then 240, 360, & then 400. Rather than focusing on staying in just the damaged area of the rim, I circle the sander around the whole of the rim edge so as to avoid any flat spots & keep the rim as flat as possible.This pictures shows some orbital sanders in all shapes & forms, it could be done by hand but this is a lot quicker. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> Edited July 19, 2006 by Max69vk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArosaPD Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 Well done mate, good effort. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Keep the piccies coming Max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted July 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 (edited) Just been given an extra tip for if you are stripping paint & primer from the wheels....Take a plastic dustbin bag without holes (if the bag has 'safety' holes tape them up with selotape) & lay it on the floor with the opening at top, then place the wheel on /in the bag so that you can still pull the bag up around it. Cover the wheel in plenty of Nitromors & pull the bag up over the wheel, then bunch the top together & blow up the bag like a balloon, tie the top up & leave it overnightn. Doing this will work act like having a paint stripper greenhouse & by the time you come back in the morning you should just be able to rinse off all of the paint & primer (dont worry if the bag has deflated, it will still have served its purpose)!Wheel in the bag.............. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />Lots of Nitromors slapped on......... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />All bagged up & ready to sweat overnight.......... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> Edited July 20, 2006 by Max69vk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eXXXtreme arosa Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 i would have suggested this idea of overnight soaking if i had spotted this thread sooner. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted July 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 Ok, so here's a quick pic of pretty much all thats needed to 'flat' the rims ready for polishing, border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />Various grades of grit paper & wet n dry, a couple of course/medium sanding pads + a couple of medium/fine, a rubber sanding block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted July 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 (edited) Start off by attacking any deep scratches with a course grade paper (possibly 240 grit, or 180 if really bad), use the paper & rub in the opposite direction to which any deep scratches run, this will widen the scratch & eventually work it out. After getting the worst marks out gradually use finer grades of paper i.e 180- 240 - 360 - 400 etc etc. as I was feeling a little lazy & still had a few primer spots to remove I used 180grit - 240 & then went hell for leather with the course/medium sanding pad & then the medium/fine. These pads are an absolute God send & really do help with wearing your fingers to stumps! Im reckoning that using the pads has probably helped me to skip having to use 360,400 & 500 grit wet n dry.2 Hours grafting & the rim now looks like this........ border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />You can still see the scratch marks that will eventually get finer & finer with the use of 600, 800, 1000 & then 1200 grit wet n dry, but even at this rough stage you can see a 'shine' starting to build. Edited July 20, 2006 by Max69vk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_M Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 Looking good mate...........this brings back a lot of memories of my rims.Its like seeing the nightmare again style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted July 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2006 Ok, so I finally came to (possibly) the worst wheel. Lots of curbing & knocks with the added insult of having had a brake fluid leak all over it which had really eaten in to the alloy. Seeing as it was quite bad I thought 'what the hell' & decided to try a little experiment with it. Due to the damage on the wheel it was neccesary to hit it al over with 120 grit(!), 180 & the 240, by which point it looked like this........ border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />Now plenty of people will try & say that home/ebay polishing kits are sh*t so I thought I'd see what could be achieved with them. Using a loose stitched mop & course/medium compound..... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />....I started to polish the wheel directly from 240grit just to see what what could be done! This is the result after 5 mins.... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />Whilst the finish on this wheel is very very good for the little effort put in, it does still have some scratch marks that would have been removed in the process of going through finer grades of paper. However for the purpose of this little experiment I think I can safely say that these homes kits are definately not sh*t! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":thumbsup:" border="0" alt="thumbsup.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eXXXtreme arosa Posted July 22, 2006 Report Share Posted July 22, 2006 Ok, so I finally came to (possibly) the worst wheel. Lots of curbing & knocks with the added insult of having had a brake fluid leak all over it which had really eaten in to the alloy. Seeing as it was quite bad I thought 'what the hell' & decided to try a little experiment with it. Due to the damage on the wheel it was neccesary to hit it al over with 120 grit(!), 180 & the 240, by which point it looked like this........ border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />Now plenty of people will try & say that home/ebay polishing kits are sh*t so I thought I'd see what could be achieved with them. Using a loose stitched mop & course/medium compound..... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />....I started to polish the wheel directly from 240grit just to see what what could be done! This is the result after 5 mins.... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />Whilst the finish on this wheel is very very good for the little effort put in, it does still have some scratch marks that would have been removed in the process of going through finer grades of paper. However for the purpose of this little experiment I think I can safely say that these homes kits are definately not sh*t! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":thumbsup:" border="0" alt="thumbsup.gif" />very impressive i have to say any links to the auction you won? just out of interest style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted July 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2006 I've had a few PM's asking where I got my kit from if you follow this link it will take you through to the guys ebay store. TBH you dont need a kit as intensive as mine for doing wheels this kit will do the job perfectly! border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />Amazingly after all this there is still some pitting in the alloy that I was unable to remove! Oh well, things can only get easier (crossed fingers). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupodave Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 Anymore news on these?! I'm intrigued as to how they're coming along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted August 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 Im getting there slowly! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> was going to do an update tonight but Im too ****ed! I'll update tomorrow for ya style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LINCOLNSHIRESLUPOGTI Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 Brilliant and interesting thread. Those wheels look real nice (hint of Compomotive MO about them). Well worth continued effort in my opinion. Top work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggaz Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 I wanna see these too!Want to do some myself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted August 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 Its taking a little longer due to an ever growing list of things to be done on the motor, plus Im trying out an experiment on one wheel that makes the lips look like a very nice 'brushed steel' effect. Will update tonight when I get home. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":shades:" border="0" alt="shades.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted August 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 (edited) Ok carrying on from where we left off...The bare metal of the alloy that is to be painted must be primed using an acid etch primer, normal stuff will not do. The acid etch 'eats' into the aloy itself to get a proper adhesion that wont flake off at a later date.(This is the stuff- yes I know its the wrong way round! I'll sort it later!) border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />Because you want a sharp edge from the polished lip to the painted surface I used 'fine line' masking tape which is actually plastic & very very flexible(heres the tape) border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />(and this is it being flexible!) border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />Once that is on the rest of the rim can be masked with normal masking tape (I forgot to take a picture though!). Wipe the wheel down with panel clean (not white spirit or petrol etc!) Apply the primer in slightly wet coats & allow the primer to 'flash off' between coats. Flashing off literally means letting the wetness of the paint evaporate, you will know it is ready when it turns from glossy to more of satin/matt finish. Apply at least 3 coats to ensure total coverage of all the required area. (TIP: when spraying always start at the edges or most akward angles before moving onto the easier/flatter surfaces - this will ensure that ( A ) you get them! and ( B ) any over spray from the flatter/easier surfaces will provide aditional coverage for the PITA areas). Allow the primer at least 1 day to go off if you are working from bare metal, once you've done this nip the primer back very lightly with 1500 grade wet & dry to remove any bits of 'sh*t' that may have got into it (yes that is the technical term for it!). Once this is done blow off any dust possible & them wipe the primer with panel wipe (definately not white spirit or petrol etc, this will take the primer off), when you have wiped the wheel down use a tack cloth to remove any residual dust. A tack cloth is just a fine 'tacky' cloth that does not leave any gluey residues(tack cloth) border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />I obviously missed a section of the wheel with the panel wipe hence why this cloth is so dirty! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> Edited August 8, 2006 by Max69vk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted August 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 (edited) Right your ready to paint!.....As with the primer start off by spraying any edges or hard to reach areas first (for the same reasons as above), when putting on the first coat it doesnt matter if it is 'dry' (matt finish) or patchy, this layer is going to act as a 'keying' layer for the other coats to adhere to. JUST MAKE SURE YOU DONT OVERLOAD THE PAINT ON THIS LAYER, you dont want any runs! Let this 1st layer flash off for at least 15 minutes before applying the 2nd coat of paint, when applying the 2nd coat of paint apply the paint so that it is slightly wetter (glossy) & more even coverage all over (dont overload & dont worry if this is slightly patchy again). (After 2nd coat (these centres are being sprayed in satin- hence not super shiny)) border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />Leave the paint to flash off again for at least 40 minutes this time. Once this is done it is time for the final coat, this coat is to be wet (not running) & as even coverage as possible, this is to be your top finishing layer. If the paint still doesnt look smooth enough after this coat you can always let it flash off & try again, it will just mean that the paint will take longer to dry. Alternatively you could always add a couple of layers of laquer. Leave the wheel to dry for at least 24 hrs before touching it again!If you are finishing the wheel with a glossy finish you can now nip out any bit of sh*t with 2000 grade wet & dry & polish up by hand with t-cut etc. After about 36hrs you can remove the masking tape...However caution must be taken when removing the layer of masking tape/fine line that meets the paint edge. To remove this bit of tape pull it at approx a 45 degree angle from the paint edge whilst keeping the tape held as flat to the surface it was stuck to as possible. you should then be left with a wheel like this... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />(the rim looks a little dirty in these pics & has glue residue from the masking tape & the spokes are covered in static dust).This picture shows a slight edge which has been craeted from where the wheel/rim was masked... border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />If this is quite noticable it can be touched in with a fine paint brush or a permanent marker, or even (as I will be doing) some coloured pin stripe/fine line border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />My hand after washing & scrubbing 3 times! (please also note the half ripped off fingernail on the 1st finger!) border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> Edited August 9, 2006 by Max69vk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggaz Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 Quality mate, really interesting!!Nice write up too!Couple of Q's please.....where do you get the tack cloths (sp) and etching primer , fine mask tape etc???cheers gaz... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted August 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 (edited) I got the etch primer & tape from a local paint suppliers, although I discovered the primer is now available in Halfords (about £10 a can) which is where you can also get the tack cloths from (about £3 for 3). Didn't see any fine line tape there though, although it may have been out of stock (costs about £3 a roll). Edited August 9, 2006 by Max69vk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted August 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 (edited) Nice job! Excellent writeup.... and to think I dropped my wheels off at the refurb'ers yesterday morning, and picked them up at 4pm! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> Still, your way is much more satisfying style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />You reckon style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> My next sets being arranged to be sent to pureklas as we speak, I just haven't got the time to sort these 'properly' & they are only going to be on the car for 2 weeks while the others get done! This whole thing was just done as an experiment & partly to show how it was done, if they were just being resprayed they'd of been done in an afternoon style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> Edited August 9, 2006 by Max69vk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max69vk Posted August 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 If you cant find any fine line masking try this LINKY style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":thumbsup:" border="0" alt="thumbsup.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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