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Fitting Arosa Mk2 Fog lights


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To fit Front fogs you need

-Left and Right Apertures

6H0 853 665 BB41

6H0 853 666 BB41

about £5/5.50 each

-Lupo/Arosa Fog Lights direct from Seat Dealer about

6H0 941 699A

6H0 941 700A

about £50inc vat from dealers

- Wiring Kit ( I got mine from Halfords )

Ring Fast Fit Kit for driving lamps and fog lamps

about £11.99

-On/Off Rocker switch with "On LED"

about £3.50

You can use any switch you want but it MUST BE a Dual pole single throw switch that Illuminates when On or you'll fail your MOT !!

-More wire, to extend wiring kit in places

-soldering iron

-heat shrink tubing

-black leccy tape

DSCN5437.jpg

Process

-remove exsisting grills - this is done by at the side towards the outside of the car there is a single screw , undo the screw . Once the screw is undone gently pull the grill forward as if you were opening a door ( the grill is still connected to the bumper ) once the grill has hinged far enough forward there is an anchor shaped bit of plastic still holding it to the bumper. put your hand behind the grill and sqweeze the anchor points together and then slip them out of the slot thats holding them on . Grill is now removed

-Start to run the wiring -right originally i was going to mount the relay under the dash but after consulting with a rather good auto electrician he said would be best to mount it under the bonnet to keep it cool etc . so

step 1 - when you get your wiring kit out of the box it will look like this

DSCN5438.jpg

Do not panic, the red lead is the power lead , the yellow goes to the fogs , the blue goes to the switch and the black gets earthed .

step 2 - Remove the headunit and then take the BLUE WIRE WITH ONLY 1 BLADE CONNECTOR on it and if you have an after market headunit, disconnect the aftermarket part of the wiring loom to make it easier to work on . Find the Illumintation wire on the wiring loom (Usually Orange or Brown) and attach the blue wire to it, remember to put a heat shrink on the wire before you solder it or it wont fit on, solder the connection and put the heat shrink over the joint. Now take one of short negative leads that has a blade connector on it. cut the end off of the wire that has the eyelet on it. Take some of your extra wire ( black preferably ) and attach enough extra that you can go all the way from the headunit, behind the dash and then round into the dash again where the switch is leaving you enough room to pull the switch out of the dash if need be. Again , heat shrink this joint. Once you have soldered this wire together, connect the end of the this negative lead that you have extended that DOES NOT have a connector on it to the common return ( negative lead) from your headunit. Once you have done this I advise that you get a metal coat hanger and then tape the end of the wire that's going to the switch to it. Once you have done this, put the coat hanger in through the DIN slot and on the left hand side there is a gap you will see, put the coat hanger in and get somebody in the passenger side footwell and they can pull the wires through. Do this for the two new wires.

Put the headunit back into the dash again.

Take out the empty buttons using a flat bladed screw driver with a cloth over it and carefully remove them by prying them out , DO NOT TOUCH THE HEATED REAR SCREEN BUTTON!!! . now take the two wires and tuck the neatly around the plastic panels of the footwell until you get to the point you need to pull them through the hole where you want your button to be . the easiest way of getting the wires through is by taking your trust coat hanger again and put it through the button hole you want to use and BE CAREFULL when pushing it through in case you damage any other wires in there and then tape the wires to the coat hanger and pull through like so

DSCN5447.jpg

once you have done this, take one of your blank buttons and drill the appropriate sized hole for your switch.

Insert the switch into the blank button

Take the BLUE lead that you attached to the ILLUMINATION lead on the headunit and attach it to the + terminal on the switch . then take the BLACK negative lead that's attached to the headunit and attach it to the - terminal on the switch .

Step 3 - lift the bonnet, *posts pic of where i have hidden the relay * . you will see on the firewall that there is a big grommet that's about 3inches wide. Now most people run their Amp Power lead through here, now take the second blue lead that's still connected to the relay and disconnect it from the relay. Now here's the fun part, cut the wire about 6 inches from the end ( this makes it a million times easier to get through the firewall ). Keep the short part safe. Now take the end of the blue wire that doesn't have a blade connector on it and tape it to the end of your coat hanger again. Carefully push the coat hanger through the grommet with the wire attached and have somebody else in the passenger side footwell feeling for it , not i warn you that the grommet is quite far up and there's a thick rubber matting to get through as well , this may take some time, but do not rush it as you may damage something!!!!

-once this wire has been pulled through solder the other shorter half back on to the wire and heatshrink the joint. Now carefully again, take your coat hanger and pull the wire through the empty button slot and attach it the the terminal on the back of the switch that looks like a light symbol now you can tidy up all the wires on the inside of the car and refit all your empty buttons.

dash2.jpg

step 4 - the next fun part is to take a length of your new black wire that you have got separate and take the yellow wire from the relay as well. Now this black wire is for the - terminal from the fog lights so you need to basically duplicate the yellow wire but with black wire ( if that makes sense , so you have a copy of the yellow wire but in black) . remember to use blade connections to the fogs and for the connections that are just wire to wire soldered and heatshrink. Tape the two wires together so that where the wire has a + yellow connector there is a black connector aswell :D

-now heres the fun part, you either need to remove the front bumper OR put the car up on mini ramps. I can only tell you how to do it by putting it up on ramps.

Put the car up on mini ramps ( I had to use thick bits of wood to extends the ramps cause my front bumper was going to hit them ). Now that you have got the car up on the ramps, start at the drivers side. Remove the standard grill. In there you will see a thick slot on the bottom and then two small slots at the top. Take your drivers side fog light and connect the yellow and black wires to the fog ( I opened the fog case and seen which terminal was + and - ) and then use some kind of sealant to make sure that no water gets into the terminals ( make sure that the sealant IS NOT CONDUCTIVE!!!! ). Once you have done this, get under the car. You will be able to see up behind the bumper but there is the bottom part of the arch liner that needs to be removed to get full access to where the fog goes. It is removed simply by 4 torques screws, two to the bumper and two to the rest of the arch liner.

Take the fog light and then you will see that the thick silver clip, mounts on to the thick wide clip at the bottom, the fog also has two screws on the top with a washer. Now I couldn't get a pic cause of the angles etc but to get the top screws in you need to lift the screw head and washer over the top of the U shaped mounting point and screw it down nice and tight to make sure that they don't move. Now start to run the wire towards the other fog light position. This can be done easily, cause your under the car you will be able to see a gap in the back of the bottom part of the bumper, run the wires along here. To secure the wires in place what I did was drill a series of small holes on the under side of the bumper where you cant see them *will take a pic tomorrow* and then use a small piece of wire, I used a bit of garden wire ( only cause it was all my grandad had at the time ) and use the wire to hold the power leads down to the bumper. Work your way along the bumper. Now remove the other lower arch liner and repeat the step of fitting the second fog . now get a second person to look in the engine bay down next to the battery as you push the two wires up towards the battery and pull them up the wing. Don't over stretch the wires. You can now replace the lower parts of the arch liners.

-Fit the new front grills - In the same process as removing the old grills. Squeeze the anchor shaped plastic hook and then put it in the slot, then push the grill into place and screw back in. Repeat for the other side.

-Take the car off of the ramps.

-Now take the yellow wire that you pulled up through the wing and reconnect it to the relay.

-Take the black lead that's coming from the relay and remove it for just now. Cut the end off of the wire with the small eyelet on it and then join that end to the black negative lead coming from the fogs and put an eyelet big enough fit on the negative terminal of the battery . and then fit it to the negative terminal and re-connect the black wire to the relay .

-Now take the red lead and make sure that the blade fuse is out of the + red lead that's connected to the relay and connect it to the + terminal of the battery and reconnect the battery up as well. now make sure that all the terminals of the relay have been reconnected.

-insert the blade fuse back in

-completed :D:D

TESTING

Put your key in the ignition.

Try and turn the fogs on, on there own. They shouldn't light up Neither should the light on the switch.

Turn your side lights on and then turn the fog lights switch on, the switch should light up and the fogs should be on.

Once you have done this, LEAVE THE FOG LIGHT SWITCH ON but turn the side lights off, this should kill the fogs and the light should go off on the switch. BUT REMEMBER IF YOU DO THIS AND THEN TURN THE SIDE LIGHTS BACK ON THE FOGS WILL COME ON AS WELL. SO REMEMBER TO TURN THE FOGS OFF AS WELL!!!

this should all work

TROUBLE SHOOTING

If all switch light is on no matter what position it's in, you have put the the side light feed wire and the blue wire that goes to the relay mixed up.

Now you can turn all you lights on as normal but with your fogs you can ONLY turn them on and off when your sidelights are on. If you have your lights on and your fogs on and jump out the car and turn the sidelights off the fogs will go off as well.

- If you screw it up its your own fault, don't blame me , if you don't know what your doing then get a professional to do it for you.

Edited by nfbr
Cleaned by: nfbr.
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