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How to: Fix Rear Screen wash leak


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I have solved this apparently common problem with a couple of turns of PTFE tape.

If the black right angle connecting pipe isn't broken, then a possible cause of the leak is just the fact there there is a poor seal inside the mechanism, which allows washer fluid to leak back and drip into the inside lid of the boot.

Tools for the Job:

* TX10 torx driver

* TX20 torx driver

* a small bottle of water

* some kitchen roll

* some PTFE tape

* a clear 15 mins.

* A brew :coffee:

1) Remove the boot trim by first removing the two no 20 torx screws on the inside of the recessed pull handles

2) Unclip the bottom of the trim by pulling outwards, and free the top by pulling upwards

3) Locate where the washer fluid tube appears to enter the motor - Carefully pull off the plastic elbow where it connects to the fixed plastic part of the washer tube, where it enters the motor.

4) At the base of this fixed plastic connector, there are two moulding holes, where the water leaks from.

5) Remove the metal cover of the the washer motor using a no 10 torx (there are 8 screws) prise off the cover, being careful of the gasket.

6)As the cover comes off, the back plastic entry point of the washer tube reveals that it is connected to a copper tube, about 2 inches long, that takes the washer fluid to the jet.

The poor seal is at that point.

If the washer jet is blocked, which it will probably be, the washer fluid is being pumped at pressure to the nozzle, but the nozzle is blocked, so the fluid escapes by running out of the copper pipe, back down the sleeve it is inserted into, and out of the two molding holes at the base of the unit. You will be sealing this gap between the copper tube and its sleeve.

Press the copper tube and the plastic elbow joint it is attached to out of the metal motor cover.

Clean out the fixed sleeve the copper tube fits into by filling a small plastic bottle with water, making a small hole in the top, and squirting water up the sleeve, holding a rag to catch the washings.

Take a roll of ptfe tape, and wind some turns around the copper tube from halfway down, all the way down the base. I did about 30 turns to build up some thickness.

Refit the plastic molding attached to the copper tube into the motor cover, press the motor cover back onto the motor, making sure the copper tube fits neatly back into the fixed sleeve.

Press it home, refit the cover with its screws. Reconnect the washer tube to the fixed plastic elbow, and close the boot. Check it works and that there are no leaks.

Refit the boot trim.

Edited by nfbr
Cleaned by: nfbr.
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