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Bottom arms and bushes


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12 hours ago, LR5V said:

I would suggest TT solid ones - harsh and rattly for first 100 miles, but they soften after that and are great -you get better steering feel and they last a lot longer

Can you link me to some or a part number? Edit: these bad boys?

VW: 8N0 407 181 B

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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-Meyle-HD-Front-Wishbone-Bushes-Audi-TT-S3-VW-Mk4-Golf-GTI-R32-8N0407181B/400460034723

Part Number: 100 407 0073/HD

MEYLE-HD Quality

Fitting Position: Rear, Lower, Front Axle Left/Right

Height: 41 mm

Inner Diameter: 13 mm

Outer Diameter: 60 mm

Heavy Duty Version

Looks different size to FEBI Lupo bush:

Thickness/Strength: 46 mm

Inner Diameter: 17 mm

Outer diameter: 60 mm

PN: 07059

Cheers

Edited by Sausage
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Is the ID difference a sleeve around the bolt?

LF are too pricey for me, these are HD bushes anyway so well above spec for the Lupo, will probably give these a go:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Front-Control-Trailing-Arm-Wishbone-Bushes-for-Audi-VW/183280067147

or the Meyle linked above.

OK found LF at better price: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-Wishbone-Bushes-Lemforder-OEM-for-VW-Golf-Mk4-R32-Audi-TT-S3/151842236303

Edited by Sausage
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Well the difference between £20 a pair for the Meyle and £28 (until I found them for £22) was sufficiently large for me to pass on them. At £22 delivered that is much better.

Still tempted by the £15 ones though 😁

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have had great value out of Topran stuff, their stuff usually punches at a level higher than their price commands despite the really dodgy sounding name!

- But never tried bushes by them, interesting to see how they work out for you, remember the rattling will die down after about a 100 miles

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  • 5 weeks later...

Finally got around to test the solids fit on red TDI.

Didnt like the amount of pinch on the subframe to take up the size difference so 2 washers go in with some slight persuasion. M12 i think, 13mm ID 23mm OD 2.5mm thick. They sit in the little slot seats for the bush nicely.

 

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5mm gap felt like too much crush on the subframe for my liking. I tried it. The TT bushes are 5mm shorter. Asking for cracking to start there if it is distorted too much.

There is the pinch from the bolt holding it all in place not just relying on side loading on the bolt. could always superglue the washers on I suppose but dont see the need tbh.

A big washer under the bolt head to spread the load might do it if I remove the washers and crush the gap on the subframe, less strain on the bottom bolt hole then.

Will try that in a bit.

Edited by Sausage
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Didn't realise TT bushes are shorter... Aren't golf (R32) types solid and maybe a bit bigger? There's potentially a fair amount of stress on the central sleeve which is why there's the little C shaped slot to firmly locate them. All that jiggling will eventually loosen the bolt if there's sideways motion on it.

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Just tried it again minus washers and no way is that healthy, didnt get it fully pinched up and I'm not willing to go further, you will get away with one washer. The little seats end up not parallel to the bush ends as well.

There is a big washer under bolt head built in I'd forgotten about so no point adding another there to spread the load...

No wonder yours rattled LR5V.

AFAIK the solid TT ones are same as R32. I knew there was a size difference before buying them, but until they are test fitted it is hard to visualise the effect as I have not taken arms off until now to know what the score is.

Edited by Sausage
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Bushes in the arms, used large socket and 6 inch vise to remove the ones in there. Found walking it in a bit at a time using vise jaws worked best for fitting them. In and out the rounded profile of the hole and flush with the welded side. As they are solids I assume no bush alignment is needed.

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Not realistically possible to use a loose top washer as roll bar in the way, so a choice of removing roll bar or bonding them on. Didnt have any glue so used high strength silicon, it is mainly just to hold them in position for mounting but if they are strong enough to stay put under load then a bonus.

Dscn5169.jpg

Edited by Sausage
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Things that make you go hmmm, ....

All are supposedly for Arosa, I figured Arosa and Lupo are the same no?

Top are Unipart GSJ1680

Bottom one is GSJ3073

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Thought this arm was a winner as it is stitch welded all the way around unlike the GSJ1680

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Still a pair of these and you can run fatter wheels I guess... (or your driveshafts will bottom out)

Edited by Sausage
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On 1/26/2019 at 12:54 PM, Sausage said:

Didnt like the amount of pinch on the subframe to take up the size difference so 2 washers go in with some slight persuasion. M12 i think, 13mm ID 23mm OD 2.5mm thick. They sit in the little slot seats for the bush nicely.

My apologies  -  I wasn't aware of the difference in thickness. I would run the washers too, there is friction of the sub-frame holding these in place, its not just the bolt

On 1/28/2019 at 2:59 PM, Rich said:

Swing the hammer with precision like a man.

Hammer,  meh.... Hydraulic press  FTW

Those longer control arms look interesting

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The longer arms are standard, the shorter ones (10mm difference it looks like) look interesting to me, stitch welded all the way around and the rear bush mount is seam welded both sides so the bush has much better and deeper support.

If it looks like the track rod ends have enough adjustment and the drive shafts dont bottom out I'll get another one.

 

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