Chris-M Posted October 28, 2018 Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 Hi Guys. Anyone come across a common component on fuse 30 that shorts and takes it out? i have a number of fault codes and an EML warning on the cash. MOT imminent of course. Did have one 2 years ago - small heater in the crankcase breather pipe, but I replaced that with a new OEM part. I have been unsuccessfully hunting Earth point faults for this. Now I’m not so sure. Fuse 18 had gone as well, but I’m 90% that will just be the heated mirrors. I need to get a new ticket on the Lupo, so any help would be appreciated.. VCDS faults are: 17911 Load signal from alternator term DF P1503 implausible 17935 Cam Timing Adg Bank 1 n205 P1527short to ground 16394 Bank. 1 Camshaft Intake P0010 Position actuator malfunction 17833 EVAP Purge valve N80 P1425 35-00 Short to ground N80 - has anyone ever had one of these short to ground? Seems to always pop up on the fault lists regardless. N205 is it as obvious as a dud N205 component? I seem to recall it can be something really random and unrelated? Cheers- Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted October 28, 2018 Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 Didn’t think eml came into it anymore? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted October 28, 2018 Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 Not an expert on gti... but usually shorts to ground mean that the supply to the sensor (5v) is non existant. So the ECU sees the input signal voltage from a sensor as 0 (earth) instead of somewhere in the range of 0.5 - 4.5 ish. Which means "a line" providing power to the ECU isn't. Inside the ECU there's a voltage regulator circuit that chucks out a perfect reference 5V for all the sensors. It gets that from the main 12V feed, which I'm guessing is absent. Sooooo, that fuse that has gone also supplies the ECU by my guess. It's usually a switched feed, either via the ignition key or a main power relay. I have no wiring diagram, but I'd search around the ignition or fuse area, or maybe that relay if there is one. I'd be surprised if a component has failed as 30A is some big current. My guess would be loom or wiring fault? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-M Posted October 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 Yes Pete. Any engine dash light up is a fail now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-M Posted October 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 (edited) Thanks Mk2 - That makes sense as fuse 30 is one of the 5A engine electrics fuses. Which items are on these fuses, I don’t know. I have replaced the blown fuse, and cleared the fault. Will see if it reappears and blows the fuse again. I’m hoping it’s not a random short, as that could take a while to trace. Edited October 28, 2018 by Chris-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted October 29, 2018 Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 8 hours ago, Chris-M said: Yes Pete. Any engine dash light up is a fail now. That’s wierd, mine went through last month with it on the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR5V Posted October 29, 2018 Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 This been parked up for a while - Have you tried jump leads to get this going? They may have popped the fuses 2 hours ago, Pete said: That’s weird, mine went through last month with it on the dash. It would seem Pete you have a considerate tester who used discretion, hold onto them if you can! Since updated MOT rules earlier this year an illuminated EML is meant to be a straight fail - due to this reason I got my nickers into a right old twist worrying about getting mine fixed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-M Posted October 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 Same situation here with wanting to get it fixed! No - car is used not daily, but a few times a week. Yesterday I fitted a new 5A fuse and started the car. Cleared the code, and the light went out. Started it this morning and after a few moves back and forth to turn round on the drive, the light was back on. I missed the point it popped up. Cold start today and ice on the car. Had a quick look and fuse 30 has gone again. So, where to start? I don't actually know where the N205 & N80 are, or what they look like. Cheers - Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupogtiboy Posted October 29, 2018 Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 N205 is camshaft adjuster and N80 is the valve for the charcoal canister, both are run off the same fuse as the heater for the breather pipe, so I'd disconnect that, pop in a new fuse and see if it goes again. My guess is it won't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-M Posted October 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 Thanks. Do you mean disconnect the breather heater? I seem to remember you had this? It was your post that pointed me at the breather last time. I replaced that part with a new one from TPS, and my fault went away, but I guess it could have gone again. Will start there, as its the last thing that was touched. N205 I guess is located up on the end of the cam cover? N80 Purge valve, roughly where is that located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR5V Posted October 29, 2018 Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 14 minutes ago, Chris-M said: N205 I guess is located up on the end of the cam cover? N80 Purge valve, roughly where is that located? At least if its popping in such short time you wont take long to isolate what item is causing the problem - good luck & get a lot of fuses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-M Posted October 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 Perfect - much appreciated. Will have a tinker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-M Posted October 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 (edited) Pulled the plug from the crankcase breather heater. Replaced the 5A fuse. Drove home. Fuse intact. Cleared the fault codes. Just been out for a drive - no light and fuse is still intact. So, at the moment it looks like the breather heater is the culprit? Could it be the wiring to the heater? Pretty surprised as I replaced the heater and breather assembly under a year ago? Edited October 29, 2018 by Chris-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupogtiboy Posted October 30, 2018 Report Share Posted October 30, 2018 Seeing as you don't really need it in the UK, I'd just leave it unplugged and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-M Posted October 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 Passed its MOT. Thanks guys... Chris. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bems Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 Could someone be so kind as to point out where the breather heater is so I can disconnect as it looks like I have the same fault. Have not N80 & N205 faults & fise 30 5A dude popped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupogtiboy Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 It's hard to see on this crappy ETKA picture, but its on the hose that runs from the airbox to the breather box on the rear of the engine, I believe the plug is roughly in the middle of the hose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bems Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 7 hours ago, lupogtiboy said: It's hard to see on this crappy ETKA picture, but its on the hose that runs from the airbox to the breather box on the rear of the engine, I believe the plug is roughly in the middle of the hose Brilliant, thanks very much for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bems Posted November 21, 2019 Report Share Posted November 21, 2019 On 3/20/2019 at 4:30 PM, Bems said: Brilliant, thanks very much for that. Right I’ve located the plug now can anyone shed some light as to how it bloody unclips?! I’ve got the air box off for access but can’t get it to unclip for the life of me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupogtiboy Posted November 21, 2019 Report Share Posted November 21, 2019 Usually on these plugs, you push the connector towards the thing you're trying to disconnect it from, push down on the little tab, then pull it away from said sensor. Image shows the plug. Don't use a screwdriver as it will snap off the lug should you ever want to re-connect the plug in the future. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kt_lou_gti Posted November 21, 2019 Report Share Posted November 21, 2019 Have had the same issues and changed the pipe and heater only for it to fail some months later. However also got the EVAP valve fault as well, changed this valve and the pipe and this resolved the issue. Not sure how the two are related as the EVAP seems to recycle fuel fumes from the tank and the heater helps to reduce 'mayo' in the oil recirc pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupogtiboy Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 They are both powered by the same fuse, along with the camshaft actuator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.