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LupoJay101

Cutting out on first start up!?!?

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Hi, just started yesterday mid drive where it randomly cut out going round a corner shortly after leaving my house. And this morning I started the car up just waiting for the windscreen to de-mist a little and it just died. Started it up same again after a few seconds.. dead. So after work I cleaned and reset the throttle body, no luck.! Still cuts out on first start up after a couple of seconds.

Any help much appreciated?? I'm possibly thinking a faulty coolant temp sensor but I'm unsure.

 

Thanks

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Get it scanned for faults, could be cam/crank sensor issues, immobiliser faults etc.

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If it's not the ignition switch or immobiliser, it sounds like crank sensor. Unlikely to be temp sensor.

which model lupo is it?

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It's a 1.4s (75bhp) had it scanned and it came up with throttle body hence the clean and reset. 

I must add it only does it from cold when it is warm and I start it, it never cuts out.

And also if I hold some revs on from cold start up for a minute or two then it won't cut out either. 

It seems like it's just when the engine is stone cold

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Have you had the plugs out?

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So it dies gradually, not like the ignition's been turned off?

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Plugs are brand new few weeks ago. 

Yes dies gradually, it starts no problem idles at around 1k then goes down to 800, 500.. dead. Start it again same thing.

But like I say I can start it hold revs even at 1200 and it wont cut out and then after a minute or two when there is even an once of heat in the car. No problems at all doesn't cut out.

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Yeah, ok, so it might be temp sensor from your description. Sounds like it's leaning out, then dies. Different to a sudden cutting out. Sounds like a fuelling issue based on wrong sensor readings. When the engine's stone cold, what do the diagnostics read, if you look at the temp probes? Are they the same? (Air/coolant).

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I’d be tempted to whip out your plugs and see if they’re oily.

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I didn't check any of that just on the fact it had a throttle body code. Will need to check that tomorrow. Will also whip plugs out and see if they are oiled up. If they are what would that mean??

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There’s a gasket around the top of the cam carrier which fails and starts letting oil inside the plug chambers, a wet, oily spark plug will struggle to provide a good spark, especially from cold with cold, thick oil around it. The only reason I know this is because it happened on my wife’s one, spent ages cleaning and cleaning the tb, replacing the tb and then noticed the plugs had oil round them. 

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Is that caused by the sump blow by gases getting sucked through? Haven't worked on that specific engine so dunno TBH. I always divert blowby gasses away from any intakes. Why give your engine smelly, polluted, contaminated air after you go through all the effort of filtering everything before it gets in there.... bonus is your engine runs smoother, a bit more power, cleaner exhaust emissions, better economy etc etc. 

I can't believe i just used 'etc etc' on CL!

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There’s gaskets over each compartment when the plug sits, they fail and it allows the oil splash in.

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There's a gasket?

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Thought it was just silicone myself as I had done it when cambelt was done. But they are not oiled up anyway so that's not the cause. Need to plug it in and see what it says again.

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Wiring check then.

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That's the TPS throttle position sensor, the thing that tells the computer what position the throttle valve is at. The feed is usually 5v and earth, with the output varying between 0.5-4.5 volts approx. The output should be smooth, without any jumps between idle and WOT.

if it doesn't work, the computer can't tell how open it is so it makes a best guess. But once warm, the fixed idle air gap allows just enough air through to idle normally. Clever get you home program if there's a fault.

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2 hours ago, LupoJay101 said:

Thought it was just silicone myself.

You thought correctly.

Tps is at the throttle body end under the plastic cover, cleaning carbon off the strips might be a good start.

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Ok done that.. and no different. Although now the codes have cleared and haven't come back on yet. 

I have just done a quick battery check and it is coming back and low would that have an effect??

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High temp silicone is still gasket isn’t it? And have you got low voltage faults for the other modules? 

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That would have an effect.

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Will check later on when I get a bit of time.. at least I know a new battery is on the list before winter sets in.

Another update I noticed out the corner of my eye that the crankcase breather pipe had a bit of white mucus inside so I removed the whole crankcase breather pod and pipe to find it crammed full. Took about 20mins of brake cleaner and hot water to clean it out. All back together and I don't know if it's me but everything seems smooth as silk. Idle, driving everything feels really nice. 

Don't know if it's from doing the crankcase breather or if it was just learning the throttle body after I done it before. Will know for sure in the morning.

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