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yeha

Subframe alignment

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Just had the fun of replacing my TDi subframe, including the obligatory seized captive nuts, downpipe that won't come off the turbo, snapped screws in the rack, etc. Now I need to get it pointing in the right direction. Anyone know how?

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Never done it on a Lupo, but the only way I know besides having a factory alignment jig, or all the measurements and a tape measure, is by having another lupo for reference. Millimetres matter. You do need to be as precise as setting up steering alignment, or camber will be out.

I'm just thinking that you might be able to assemble everything leaving the sub frame bolts just nipped up, complete with wheels on, and set it using a pry bar. If you have a flat, horizontal, slippery surface (glossy magazines), get the wheels about parallel with the weight of the car pressing down. Move everything till the camber of both sides are exactly the same. @Rich- what do you think? 

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I have never paid this that much attention, I just bolt it up with the filth marks.

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The luxury of having a subframe in the garage has meant I was able to look at how much play there is in the rear subframe bolts that double as control arm bolts - with my super pro crush tube I have no more than 1mm play around the bolt. Therefore, unlike every Golf I have owned there is no real adjustment possible - same deal with rear beam.

When I get mine back together I will get a 3D alignment done, if required I will invest in some alignment/camber correction shims for the rear beam.

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I'd had similar thoughts about the lack of adjustment of the rear beam. I do have another Arosa to compare with. I need to weld the captive nuts so I'd like to think it's right before I go too far.

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Is it possible to adjust the rear beam on a gti?? Not seen anything that i could adjust on my SDIs.

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Any Lupo can be adjusted, but its Not OEM and you need a wheel alignment to know what correction is required + desired camber

You need this type of shim - explained in this quite long vid:

 

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I get it. Uneccessary on a VAG car IMO. Our cars are manufactured to much higher standards. Useful if there's been an accident and something's been bent though. Or perhaps track work. But you'd need to run really low profile tyres to notice any difference in handling.

The trouble is, the way a rear beam flexes to change the camber and caster when it goes up and down while the other side doesn't means it depends on rear loading too. Everyone lightens their cars when they do track stuff, so the whole dynamic geometry is out when on a circuit. Not having messed with rear beams much, I'd guess that not only would the static geometry need tweeking, but the dynamics too. That'd mean the entire rear beam and mounting points would need chopping about. Nightmare scenario! Lots of fun learning about every incremental change though.

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I'd have welded the captive nuts in situ before removing the subframe to eliminate the hassle of trying to get it right afterwards.

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Depends how you do it.

I've seen bolts welded from the top and nuts fitted to the bottom.

A little pre prep stops them from spinning.

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Just powered up my dodgy copy of Elsawin. The subframe is aligned off the rear mounting holes using VW tool T20163A, called a centre guide. I've still got the old subframe so I can create my own version.

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