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LR5V

GTI Upgrades

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On 11/26/2018 at 6:56 PM, LR5V said:

 

Already invested in all the required Victor Reinz gaskets, Gates Cam belt kit, new oil pump - going to ask for Goetze rings unless there is something better out there?

If you can find, i recommend Mahle rings. They are very good. I've rebuilded 2 of these engines with Mahle rings and all of them run strong compression after many miles. My track Polo with 1.6 16v has Mahle rings for the last 10k kms (@6k miles), all of them (without the 300 miles break in perios) done on the track, revved hard, and the compression is as good as it was after break in and the oil consumption is as low as 200 ml in 3-3.5k miles of track use. So, i will highly recommend these rings, and also the VR headgasket.

Edited by Aditza579

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Do you hone the bores with a double angle cut (30 & 60 degrees)? 

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14 hours ago, Aditza579 said:

If you can find, i recommend Mahle rings. They are very good. I've rebuilded 2 of these engines with Mahle rings and all of them run strong compression after many miles. My track Polo with 1.6 16v has Mahle rings for the last 10k kms (@6k miles), all of them (without the 300 miles break in perios) done on the track, revved hard, and the compression is as good as it was after break in and the oil consumption is as low as 200 ml in 3-3.5k miles of track use. So, i will highly recommend these rings, and also the VR headgasket.

Thanks for the suggestion will look into them - will do this after stripping the spare engine down

 

12 hours ago, mk2 said:

Do you hone the bores with a double angle cut (30 & 60 degrees)? 

I was planning on getting a Flex-hone

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Clarke three legged glaze breaker....

 

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read horror storeys about them, very easy to mess up  - the bog brush is self-centring, great scoring - a lot more user friendly

 

Edited by LR5V

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First check the state of the factory hone. It doesnt worth honing it again if the factory finish is still intact. Look on the cylinder 90 degrees of the wrist pin axis, both sides. If you can't clearly see all the Xes, then the honing process is necessary. If you have to do it, use the ball-hone method (this works only for fine honing, if there are clear signs of wear, you may have to use the three leg tool or even worse). But this is a case of deciding only after you tear into the engine. Good luck!

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Yeah, and if you get the angle wrong it actually makes everything worse... you need a zig zag vertical movement, not a wave action. No horizontal scoring. So you can't start or stop the drill while the brush is in the bore. Ever.

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Oil pump showed up yesterday. Been reading through Casper Gti's excellent build thread, he had a few hick-ups on his build. Got some great tips buried in that thread - getting some Graphogen for bearings and Torco engine assembly lube.

15 hours ago, Aditza579 said:

First check the state of the factory hone. It doesnt worth honing it again if the factory finish is still intact. Look on the cylinder 90 degrees of the wrist pin axis, both sides. If you can't clearly see all the Xes, then the honing process is necessary. If you have to do it, use the ball-hone method (this works only for fine honing, if there are clear signs of wear, you may have to use the three leg tool or even worse). But this is a case of deciding only after you tear into the engine. Good luck!

Thanks for the advice  - the spare engine apparently had 90k miles on it, I am going to take the block to be checked over at a shop to get their opinion, thought new rings needed a deglazed bore to seal in properly

14 hours ago, mk2 said:

Yeah, and if you get the angle wrong it actually makes everything worse... you need a zig zag vertical movement, not a wave action. No horizontal scoring. So you can't start or stop the drill while the brush is in the bore. Ever.

Yes - start and finish outside the bore with lots and lots of lube oil

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