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GTI Upgrades

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Duplicate from other thread  -

Well Box is off, to do this I had to remove the pressure plate bolts through the starter motor opening, Thanks to Rich for that tip.

I managed to round out several drive shaft bolts  - couldn't get them undone, so I had to drag the long right drive shaft out with the box.

Had to grind off the plate to get a puller on

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And off

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Cant work out what got into the spline of the plate I could pick some of it out but other stuff is so well wedged in I cast pick it out.  I cleaned the input shaft with a wire brush and ran a fine screwdriver along each groove. This is the best I can do with a magnifying picture of my new paper weight!

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Only about £30 more for a full clutch kit over just a plate, so just going to replace everything as it has all been under strain for 2 months. First thing I will do is test the plate on the input shaft

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Currently waiting on replacement Sachs clutch kit to be sent from I assume France - it is £1 more expensive than the ECP LUK rubbish - all covered in my seemingly never ending clutch thread!

Those 2 gearbox bolts at the bottom of the sump have been a complete PITA for me. I don't know if its the KAM exhaust manifold taking up a lot more space than standard, but I have to drop the manifold to take them out. As I have been playing hokey-cokey with the gearbox & sump those 2 bolts have pee-peed me off for the last time.

The weird thing is the tread in the gearbox is full depth and open on the other side - its crying out for stud conversion, took a bit of measuring and at the cost less than £2:

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Like the bolts, I can now undo the nuts with a spanner and if the manifold is too tight the stud can be wound in from gearbox side - using 5mm allen key head - to get the nut off  - no more dropping the manifold. 

Original bolts are 8.8 tensile, couldn't find 8.8 grub screws and nuts, these are 14.9 and going to stud conversion I have greater clamping force.

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I'm sure that will be a pain in the area to get on.

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New clutch kit arrived yesterday, same kit as I used before, testing the plate, it slid onto the shaft perfectly.

Today was Dry, so pulled my finger out and got the Box back in by myself, I nearly gave up but sat down and had a think, visualising the 15-20 degree angle it needed to go in at from the front, the hardest part was getting the Right hand drive flange past the engine block. It was nearly there so used the long bolts on the starter motor in the rear top and bottom front holes to stop the box falling out. this lined the box up pretty well took a bit of a shake and it slid into place as a normal gearbox should. Some foreign object must has got into the spline in the previous attempt. I was unable to start the engine as the starter is going slow - may have fried it trying to start in gear. or the battery is low on charge, too tired to check just now.

Unfortunately I cant drop it back onto its wheels as I need to do another job - the sump was my first  sealant type one I have ever done, so I need to drop the new oil and take the sump off again. Think I may have not used enough sealant, all the research I did said don't use too much as it can drop into the sump  - any guidance on size of bead needed?  

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I flatten the sealant out with my finger.

I hate single person gearbox jobs.

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I haven't put oil in mine since I last had it off for welding.....

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Friday - 

Checked the voltage across the battery terminals.... 11 volts is no bueno! -battery out for a charge, back in and engine fired up straight away.

Saturday -

Tackled the sump this morning, the oil was brand new Synta Platnum put in after the first go at putting the sump on. the intention was to re-use the oil & completely cleaned out the tub I use for oil changes.

Dropping the oil it looked a bit cloudy, when I got the sump off I could see why, some how water was in my sump, a weird grey sludge under the oil. I had noticed the exhaust was steamy after the rebuild, just thought it was condensation, this something it had never done before - and there was no gunk in the bottom of the sump when I took it off before, so this water got into the engine whilst it was up on axle stands with the front panel off - Bonnet not secure on my driveway 7 meters from the road. Not sure if its paranoia, but after the clutch and now this, I am starting to suspect interference from a third party, will have to go through my CCTV footage.

Any way the sump is back on, I am giving it till tomorrow morning for the sealant to set before putting new oil in. fitted the studs to the sump, they worked really well:

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Lupo is now back on 4 wheels again, last things I did today was clean the battery cable connection at the alternator, failed miserably to swap out the 810 for 800 belt, settled on slackening the pivot bolt and pull alternator tight by hand, will keep a close eye on the battery voltage

Sunday - 

Oil in, engine started, clutch working yey! - but reverse tricky to get, will work on that

Freak weather here in Edinburgh

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Then fast thaw

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Lupo now moved into the safety of the garage - Currently it has comical wheel alignment, booked in for alignment and MOT Friday Afternoon

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Self alignment.

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