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LR5V

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The more I find out about my Lupo the more paranoid I am!  When I took off the oil to water cooler off to piant the block there was some weird residue under the beige plastic insert. And in its first service with me I flushed the engine - it made a bit difference for the better, free-er reving and quieter engine I strongly suspect there is some gunk in the sump

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Drop the sump and check it out. Easy enough to do! 

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For this refresh I think & hope I have made my last trip to TPS this morning.

The only things I did this week were:

Install my crusty old drive shafts, very easy to do with nothing in the way, only problem was passenger side one spline gave way whilst torquing up, Drivers side 3 decided to strip their splines out - I have marked the bad bolts, just going to leave these just now till after its on the road

I attempted to replace the fuel filter, started to grind off the screw and suddenly the clip just fell open, I could un-clip the out pipe but the feed wouldn't budge. £32 for a new pipe, drop the rear tank straps and swapped out -  as the beam was out it was easy

Plw0Uq.jpg

Filter was genuine VW, quite corroded, wonder how long its been on the Lupo - probably original

Got help today, I have done a few beams and sub-frames by myself, its only about 20 times easier with help:

SecLRh.jpg

Rear beam was OK, needed to be jacked into position and some persuasion to get it to line up with the bolt holes. The Mk4 brake pipe had a slight problem with the banjo connector being slightly wider than the slot in the caliper - filed them down and they squeezed into position

YiSTtg.jpg

Front subframe was a little bit awkward, front right bolt wasn't lining up, but after loosening the other 3 and a bit of pulling it went in. Then I remembered the steering column rack connection, the bulkhead wont allow the clamp to go onto the spline with the sub-frame mounted, so had to lower it on the bolts and after a few goes it eventually slid into position.

vz8VR4.jpg

Loop pipe for power steering delete sits nicely, not getting baked by the exhaust 

Nearly there on fitting the hubs and brakes to the rear beam this afternoon, it started raining so had to dive inside, still got off-side caliper to install. I thinki can live with the colour mismatch of the carrier, shame about the crusty shock!:

OEzmSi.jpg

 

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Looking very nice. I wish all my SDI subframes looked that good. I'd now be covering everything with waxoyl, just to spoil it all. 

Those shocks you can pull anytime. Quick easy job. How are the bump stops looking? I swapped my old ones out for passat things. A bit harder rubber compound, but will hold that spray shield in place nicely.

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All this off road jacked up time and you have done minimal cleaning.

Tbh you're neglecting the shell and you could have done so much more 

Also post a picture of the tool you're using for the driveshafts 

Edited by Rich

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17 hours ago, mk2 said:

Looking very nice. I wish all my SDI subframes looked that good. I'd now be covering everything with waxoyl, just to spoil it all. 

Those shocks you can pull anytime. Quick easy job. How are the bump stops looking? I swapped my old ones out for passat things. A bit harder rubber compound, but will hold that spray shield in place nicely.

It lives in the garage, just pull it out to drive or work on - this is the longest period its been outside in my ownership. Not looked at the bump stops - those passat ones sound good- what type Passat?

16 hours ago, Rich said:

Also post a picture of the tool you're using for the driveshafts 

its those spline drivers we talked about before and the last thing to do before dropping it off the stands is pressure washer is coming out, and good products out there for cleaning the underside?.

Well today I got the front hubs back together, cleaning the bloody copper grease off of the brake pads revealed a pleasant surprise

1TEMjP.jpg

Ferodo DS2500 racing pads with lots of meat left - no wonder it stops on a penny!

Calipers back on

Mze6Rf.jpg

Tried my 10mm spacers, makes a lot more room for the future Brembo's

EYutyF.jpg

But will see what they are like when its all back on the deck.

Managed to get my one man brake bleeder to work and bled both the brakes and clutch, seemed suspiciously too easy, brake pedal feels solid, clutch seems lighter than I remember, not sure if its the new release bearing or new fluid or both - as usual old fluid in the clutch line was horrid - will see how it is with the engine on.

Also replaced the exhaust studs, drained the oil and made a start on removing the sump, got every bolt out except the front one next to the gearbox - I cant find it!

The rear bolt took a bit of feeling around and it came out. I had been at it all day decided to pack it in for the day, have another go when I am fresher. putting them back in is going to be fun.

 

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Phone torch and you will see it, extending magnet is handy, ball ended Allen key is good but can be done with a uj provided you have a 1/4 small socket key.

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I keep forgetting I have 2 AVY engines in my garage, this one sacrificed its flywheel to be lightened, meaning I can look at the position of the missing bolt...

isDhC4.jpg

Both are slightly out and away from the opening

And invested in some long reach Allen drivers, it was raining when they arrived, I made the dry patch:

BE9DkW.jpg

the 1/4 inch drive was a bit wobbly, the long reach helps me feel about. Sump is held on by the sealant - going to have to wait till weekend to drop it, fix the sump drain & swap out the pick up.

Hopefully shorter alternator belt will show up before then. meaning I can start making the oil cooler hoses, fit exhaust manifold, fit new lambda sensor, fit the rad panel, rad hoses , adjust gear linkage to get reverse...

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Sump off - seems to have never been off

xgxyC3.jpg
 

Sump drain repair turned into a saga, none of my hand drills were big enough for the drill bit. had to dig out a tower drill I had not even taken out of the box, but got there in the end. Cleaning up the sump I used paraffin and a cheap washing up non stick type sponge

s1ryri.jpg

Oil pick up was slightly blocked by black silicone form the PO rebuilding the head, there was more under the shroud, not bad and I now know its good

8070Ag.jpg

Alternator belt showed up today, from cutting the old belt and measuring 6PK810 is the closest I could find 

Xm2SV0.jpg

Had to find another alternator bracket for the power steering delete as my existing tensioner would push the belt into itself. Found a 9N polo braket that uses a spring

DVy6ph.jpg

only problem is the 9N uses an alternator with extended flanges, had to chop up another bracket to extend and press onto the zebbadee spring, but it was slightly out - so got busy with the cable ties and it is all good. The good news is this slightly drops the alternator away from No.1 exhaust runner - cheap ebay studs didnt fit, so got some from TPS.

yy5fST.jpg

Manifold on allowed me to re-attach the exhaust brackets and clamps under neath the Lupo. looked into the rear lambda cable route, managed to get it to run a little higher than before, everything under the Lupo is now sorted

The only thing I am dreading for the MOT is the immediate fail for an illuminated check engine light. The fault is the front lambda seeing too much oxygen due to all the engine upgrades. Decided to fit a new front lambda and mount it in a pocket to take it out of the flow. It will be trial and error to get this working, I have another pocket I can add if needed - just hope it doesn't mess up the re-map

RYin7t.jpg

Trial fit for the radiator panel

FB8qP7.jpg

Oil cooler lines are going to be really short - that is great news as its less pressure on the oil pump.

Going to re-do the front panel down, not happy with the nuts and bolts, going to add riv-nuts to the 3mm alloy panel and the buiders band is OK, but I am not happy with it - reverting back to the L-shape alloy to pick up the front rad mount and riv-nutted to the radiator panel. Good to see AC, power steering and carbon canister delete has made heaps of space for access

3pgNpD.jpg

 

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Not much done today, but took on assembling the oil cooler pipes. I have used Mocal Aeroquip push fit hose, the convenience is you can cut the hose to size, the downside is they are tricky to push the hose onto the barb. I read in the states they have banned this type of hose from drag strips unless an additional clip is added, I don't think my engine is going to be creating that much pressure, but the CV boot clips are cheap and add a bit of insurance

vEfkYT.jpg

The black hose clamps were just cheap Chinese ebay ones. Hose length is nice and short, that's a 6 inch rule in the picture, even with slack for engine movement included.

 

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When I've used them, there's usually an outer sleeve you place over the end, then screw in the fitting. Never ever had one fail, even on JCB hydraulic pressures.

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Just googled "AN" fittings... very similar. Haven't seen ANs before. Not sure which brand are the type i've used are called. Just buy 'em from local nut and bolt shop. But i have used them for refrigerant, hydraulic fluid, engine oil and cryo stuff i've worked with. Usually you put a drop of lube on the inner bit that slides inside the pipe then tighten up. If i find a pic, i'll post it here.

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AN stands for Army Navy - they are a big hike up in price due to the quality expected for those applications.

I am not changing what I already have -they don't look much but there is hours in building them!

If I recall - mine are £5 to £8 a fitting the clips are maybe 50p a pop and the hose, think it was £12 a meter - bought all this literally years ago - that's pre-Brexit prices when a £ actually had some value!

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I found myself a bit of time since the weekend, the metal I needed to mount the radiator turned up on monday. Tuesday managed to get strip and rebuild the front panel using Rivnuts instead of nuts and bolts, I am really pleased with the result

7VoYC0.jpg

All held on by hex head stainless bolts thread locked into position.

Yesterday I set about rebuilding the front panel, fabricating the L section alloy, not enough room to use rivnuts on the RH side of the panel - just pop riveted the bracket into place.

X0nAKb.jpg

 

That brings me to today - re-fitted the inlet manifold, mounted the front panel, connected up the oil cooler and coolant hoses, spun the engine over a few times to get the cooler filled up with oil, filled the coolant and turened the key.

It started - lumpy initially with smoke/steam billowing out of the exhaust and smoke coming off the engine. let it warm up before trying to a blip of the throttle with the lightened flywheel it buzzed up to 6k in no time, with pops on the over-run! Steam stopped after 5 minutes. Oil cooler warmed through - engine temp bang on normal but did not increase and couldnt get the fan to kick in.

Lots of room now, really easy access to the oil filter - so easy I popped it off to tighten the oil cooler pipes:

maf6Us.jpg

The ignition had been switched on whilst I was doing the refresh - every warning light was lit up. I have a mini netbook I use for VAGCOM, went through each group of faults clearing ABS, air bag and engine faults - The most important item was the Lambda - It was seeing too much oxygen for all of my ownership and in the 2 months before it got taken of the road it developed a ground fault - fingers crossed the new sensor and pocket have fixed the faults. I'm going to run it up to temperature each day and see if the oxygen fault re-appears. Really odd not having the check engine light on!

Engine on Tried the brakes - as I predeicted, they are a bit spongy  - will manual bleed them all again at the weekend.

Tried the gears and clutch - all the gears worked except reverse... as I need to adjust the linkage. Cant believe the clutch its as light as a feather.

Only problem is the alternator belt may be a bit big, I watched it when I rev'ed the engine - could see it growing on the alternator pulley - may need the next size down

Will take my time putting the rest back together, if the check engine light doesn't re-appear I am aiming for MOT any time after middle of next week.

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Started putting the front end back together

QLV6MD.jpg

Gave the bumper irons a quick wash after a quick scrub with TFR and hose off.

Upper iron was particularly awkward, had to notch a chunk out of my new front radiator support - not fun using an angle grinder with it attached to the Lupo

cdq1y1.jpg

And the off-side it was close to the oil cooler hose, easy fix, slacken off the cooler connection and twist the hose back

Ay8XrE.jpg

Help!  - I have one connector I can't find a home for - its 3 terminals Earth Brown, Red with white trace and Green with red trace - its on the off side, a branch off the loom with the headlights, next branch after this is the side light - I cant remember what it is meant to be connected to?

tcATtj.jpg

 

Bumper mostly on - just the screws in the wheel arch & arch liners to go on - my thanks again to @Rich for his tip to space out the side lights to get them flush to the bumper. 3 washers behind each of the bolts and it is now spot on. Behind the grille is looking very aluminium

UVIyBy.jpg

Bad news - engine light popped up. Seems the rear sensor has the earth fault and it has developed a new fault in No.2 cylinder has a misfire - at least the too much oxygen fault is away

Got these on Gumtree - they are 16 inch, but Vauxhaull 4x100 so need the hub slightly enlarged + refurb

jTklQa.jpg

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45 minutes ago, LR5V said:

Started putting the front end back together

QLV6MD.jpg

Gave the bumper irons a quick wash after a quick scrub with TFR and hose off.

Upper iron was particularly awkward, had to notch a chunk out of my new front radiator support - not fun using an angle grinder with it attached to the Lupo

cdq1y1.jpg

And the off-side it was close to the oil cooler hose, easy fix, slacken off the cooler connection and twist the hose back

Ay8XrE.jpg

Help!  - I have one connector I can't find a home for - its 3 terminals Earth Brown, Red with white trace and Green with red trace - its on the off side, a branch off the loom with the headlights, next branch after this is the side light - I cant remember what it is meant to be connected to?

tcATtj.jpg

 

Bumper mostly on - just the screws in the wheel arch & arch liners to go on - my thanks again to @Rich for his tip to space out the side lights to get them flush to the bumper. 3 washers behind each of the bolts and it is now spot on. Behind the grille is looking very aluminium

UVIyBy.jpg

Bad news - engine light popped up. Seems the rear sensor has the earth fault and it has developed a new fault in No.2 cylinder has a misfire - at least the too much oxygen fault is away

Got these on Gumtree - they are 16 inch, but Vauxhaull 4x100 so need the hub slightly enlarged + refurb

jTklQa.jpg

Looking good! My sidelights have never sat right, never thought of the washers! Cheers Rich👍🏼

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Always a fan of the RX's!

I'd paint all that aluminium matt black to keep it as OEM looking as possible :)

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Errrm thanks everyone.

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Worked out what my spare engine bay connector it's the AC drier  - found this out from a great Gti wiring diagram:

http://drugsinfo.info/lupo-gti-wiring-diagram/

lupo-gti-wiring-diagram-with-electrical-

20 hours ago, Blue Loop said:

Always a fan of the RX's!

I'd paint all that aluminium matt black to keep it as OEM looking as possible :)

Thanks Blue - its a long term plan, re-colour, different centre caps and maybe polished lip

Edited by LR5V

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New coil and rear Lambda turned up on Thursday, again its been raining heavy so did not get to round to sorting till today.

The Good news - these seem to have sorted the check engine light out, starting and running a lot better

The Bad news - bled the brakes again, but brakes still felt spongy. My driveway has a slope that does not help bleeding, decided to put it back on its wheels (Yay!) went to move it and found my clutch wasn't dis-engaging - engine starts with gears in neutral but not with it in gear - started another thread to cover this HERE

 

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