isetta Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 On my Lupo 1.0 base model there is a split outer CV gaiter. I could put one of those gaiters on that is split and then glued together once in place. many years ago that type did tend not to last too long, I don't know if they are better now. But I would rather do it properly with a one piece gaiter that does not need glueing. What I am not clear on is how the cv joint is held on the shaft. On cars I have done the gaiters on before there is a circlip holding the joint on the shaft and the ears of the circlip needed moving outwards with circlip pliers to let the shaft slide out of the circlip (the circlip remaining in the cv joint). I looked at a youtube video of someone, on a Lupo , separating the cv joint from the shaft and they were whacking the outer edge of the cv joint with a hammer and not using any circlip pliers. Is that the correct way of doing it? , not sure on exact terminology, does that mean it has a snap ring in there and not a circlip? do they generally come apart OK or can it turn into a nightmare? So if I take the three bolts out of the bottom ball joint, then get someone to hold the driveshaft pulling it towards the gearbox, whilst I whack the outer part of the cv joint with a hammer (I would probably put a lump of wood inbetween hammer and cv joint) should it come apart easily? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 it's held on by a spring clip which compresses when you wack the spider spline against it. yeah use a hammer carefully. the easiest way is to remove the whole driveshaft. remove 6 spline bolts on gearbox end. remove track rod end. remive lower ball joint. remove two bolts on shock. oh yeah, remove cv joint nut while wheel is still on the ground, as it's tight (and loosesn the 4 wheel bolts). then slide it out and cut off the old cv boot. hammer centre off shaft. clean. fit new cv boot. fit spring washer and plastic cone, greas cv joint. slide on new cv joint. tap home till spring clip locks cv joint on. fill with grease. fit retaining clamps. tighten big clamp. squeeze out excess air, tighten small clamp. refit to car. sorted. keep everything really really clean while working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 ear clips..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 also, if it is the short shaft, take the gearbox side off with circlip pliers and then just slide your boot onto the outer. outers are sometimes a lovely person to get off so I tend to avoid it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sausage Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 If the joint is ok you can get stretchy gaiters that slide over a cone so you dont have to split the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isetta Posted April 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 (edited) Hi "ear clips..... " i'm confused now. so do I have to spread the clip apart with pliers before tapping joint off the shaft or not (it is nearside outer joint) Edited April 7, 2018 by isetta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 no, just tap firmly on the central 'spider' until it pops off. you wont break anything. strong steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isetta Posted April 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 ok thanks. I will get round to it soon. luckily the split is just by the clip at the narrow end of the gaiter so it's not letting tons of road dirt right into the joint at present Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted April 7, 2018 Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 it is letting in loads... i did one the other day- full of water. they all split right next to the small clamp. so so many.... always the same! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isetta Posted April 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 hadn't really thought of water going in, I can see how once in there it will not drain out. So just ordered on ebay 2 x stretch gaiters with the clips and grease and one cone for £7.99 including postage. seems ridiculously cheap. I only need one at present but I thought I may as well pay 7.99 for two instead of 5.49 for one . Watched a youtube video of one being installed (not on a lupo). Amazing how they can stretch that much. I will report back on how it went, but based on my lack of speed in getting around to doing things and the weather, it might be a few weeks. Whilst I was originally intending to do it the 'proper' way by taking joint off the shaft, these stretch gaiters seem to be cheaper compared to non-stretch ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 cheaper for a reason. save on materials but eventually you will lose on labour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 (edited) these are the boots i use. exactly like oem. and not too pricey: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-AROSA-CORDOBA-BIZA-LEON-TOLEDO-INCA-CV-BOOT-KIT/130230313021 this sounds like time for another 'how-to'. i have another lined up to swap. camera ready. Edited April 8, 2018 by mk2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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