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Greetings from the Canada!


oprn
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1 hour ago, LR5V said:

I was at a VW show in the summer, there was a dude with a stall cutting keys & cloning fobs. looked at my key in a reader, explained it was too complex for him to do easily that day, and suggested it was easier to look after my one key very carefully.

I have a different barrel on the passenger side and an avy ECU with no inmob in case something stupid ever happens with mine.

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You might end up with having to put the Jetta barrel into the lupo lock as there are two gens of door lock mechs.

Easy enough to do though but regardless you will have to change the paddle for the one off the lupo.

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All I really need is what was called a valet key on our Jettas. It worked in the door and ignition but did not operate the power locks or have a panic button funcion. They told me it still needs to be coded to the ignition.

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Here is a story that will be appreciated on this site! Last Sunday I pulled in to fuel up the company truck just as my boss was leaving … in a bright red Mustang! I had no idea he was leaning toward the sportier side of cars so I asked him about it at work later. To make a long story shorter, he got it at a smoking hot price, 1999 35th Anniversary Addition with 72K on it in mint condition. Stored inside all it's life, the old lady that owned it has passes on.

I asked him if he was going to keep it. "No, it's much too small. I don't like small cars. I drove it to Hardisty and back the other day and it scared me! What if I hit a deer?"

I looked it up on the "net", mid sized car, 3,235 pounds!

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  • 2 weeks later...

The drivers door card fabric is coming loose n the top edge. I am used to VWs having a little plastic bit under the inside door release lever that pops out to revel a screw. Not so here. Any tips on how these come off before I break stuff and find out after the fact would be appreciated. Thanks!

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Finally getting time to address some issues on Franklin. 

The key not coming out is resolve for now - sort of. I could not find a way into the shift lever area to see if the cable could be adjusted so for now I disconnected the cable at the key end. I am thinking now that the whole center console has to come out of the car to get at it. The only downside is that the key will now come out of the ignition with the shifter in any position. I fail to see that as a big deal though as being a family of standard shift drivers we always use the park brake. 

On the the door card problem, I now see why the fabric is coming loose around the edges. I am not the first bloke to open up this can of worms. It looks like the glue that holds the plastic bits around the edge of the door card that in turn hold the clips that pop into the little holes in the door has let go. Someone has tried to hot melt glue it all back together!

 

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Edited by oprn
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I'm seeing 2 different kinds of glue. Some amber colored stuff that appears to be factory and over top of that is some whitish hot melt glue that did not stick at all.

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A very common problem then.

I am going to try silicone as both the factory glue and the fix did not hold. The plus side is that only one clip is broken as all the other plastic brackets stayed on the door!

Edited by oprn
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I've been through the same process. The only stuff that i've found sticks is butyl tape (it's what vdub used to stick the foam seal to the inner door skin). But sometimes upvc silicone works. Regular silicone, vinyl or acrylic sealants do not stick. Ebay is a great source for cheap clips. Like @Rich says, it's always useful to have a bucket full of spare clips.

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We only use rear plates here none on the front. The snow is still melting on the roads so no salt yet. They use salt and calcium chloride in the cities and main highways. The back roads here don't get any, just what carries in off the highway.

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You could put a neat LUPO sticker in that plate space. Or something interesting. It makes the car look like it's missing something without a front plate. Did you ever get the chance to underseal the car? 

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I need to do that yet. The closest place is 3 hours drive away so have not got it done. 

I have been noticing one front tire goes low suddenly in a few hours some days and sometimes it's good for weeks at a time. I had the Missus stop at the tire shop yesterday and they could not find a leak. I took it off today to put the winter tires on and on close examination the sidewalls are badly weather cracked in one place only, both sides. My theory is that it sat flat for a long time over in Japan as the shape of the cracks would support that. So now it holds air pretty well as long as that part is up when the car is stopped. If it is down the flexing of the side wall opens the cracks enough to cause a leak.

By the way - the 13" Rabbit wheels I have fit the back but not the front as the brake calipers are too big to fit inside the rims!

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You have places that can underseal?! I wish we had that service here in the UK. I have to do it myself! Horrible job.

sidewall leaks often end up blowing out. I'd put it on the back or keep it as a spare. I must admit though, i've never heard of that (your tyre leak). It must have sat for a very long time flat. But then, why did it go flat in the first place...? Tyres usually stay up for about 5 years I've found (if correctly fitted and in reasonable condition to start with). Yeah, they go soft slowly, but never flat.

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That tire (tyre) 😉 will not be going back on anything even as a spare! Yes it does look like it sat flat for a spell. 

If I had access to a hoist I would do the under seal myself. I maybe shouldn't be so quick to say there are places that do it as it has been a few years so I am just assuming they still do.

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