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Problems with full length sunroof.


mike.gamble
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I’ve just been out to refit the motor to see if the WD40 has any effect only to find that the retaining nuts in the sunroof frame have ‘moved’ and I now can’t refit the motor!

Ive had a look as best I can but, I can’t see where they’ve gone. I’m guessing that when I pushed the WD40 nozzle in, that I’ve moved them but, I thought they would have been captive?

Before I set fire to it, any suggestions? 

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1 hour ago, Rich said:

ha ha.

do you have somewhere dry so you cab remove it?

 

1 hour ago, Rich said:

ha ha.

do you have somewhere dry so you cab remove it?

Yes, I have a shed it can go in.

Do I remove all the small screws and take it out that way?

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Sunroof has been removed but, it still doesn’t help me get into the worm drive and free it up!

Also, I’m a bit stumped as to how the water was getting in as there has been absolutely no water entering where the sunroof meets the car bodywork as it was bone dry. The only place the water seems to have come through is where the sunroof motor is located?

The wormdrive looks seized so I don’t know how I’m going to sort that out and, as the motor retaining nuts have moved and I can’t refit the motor, I’m not sure what to do?

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Any thoughts on what to do here?

I’m confused as to why water is coming in through the sunroof drive motor?

My thoughts were, if I cleaned out the geardrive opening and two bolt holes with some brake cleaner so it is free from grease, etc. fill the three openings with Silka or something similar, put a bead of silka all around the sunroof edge just in case it’s gett in there somewhere and the, just refit the sunroof.

It would never be able to be used again but, it wouldn’t leak? 

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have you checked that the front drains were clear? They would back up and congregate around the motor.

with the roof out you can now pull them out and see. 

after a bit reading it is all a strange system and if it isn't opening at all it would seem that the drive system has seized so freeing that would be priority.

by all accounts they do love a bit of leaking and I am still surprised that Mattarosa who is an expert on open air things hasn't chipped in yet.

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There are no drains with this roof, it just fits flush to the bodywork.

The roof is seized but, as I can’t get into it to open it to get at the seized bits, I’m kind of scuppered.

Also, as the motor no longer has the fixings to screw the motor into, I can’t use the manual wind key to try and open/close the roof although, when I tried with the roof on, it’s was seized solid and it wouldn’t overcome the resistance and free it. 

It’s not looking good!

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https://www.stevensvwspares.com/vw-polo-sunroofs-sunroof-motors/open-air-roof

That's a solution by the looks of things, I would strongly suggest your mechanism has seized, have you tried folding it back by hand, I know the motor isn't attached but if you pushed the first brace that's supposed to go up then the front of the roof should move. Bear in mind wd40 is not a replacement for grease...

Hold motor in place and activate with switch to wind back. This exposes the plate that receives the set screws that hold the motor.

Rich there are no drain holes on the open airs, shitty design is a seal around the inside, the usual reason for the leaking is that the seal has gone and comes as part of the roof, all in one.

The cables you need Mike are part number  6N0898031

See diagram in link because I'm kind.

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2005/drive_standart/441/hg_ug/875/subcategory/875010/part_id/0/lang/e

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4 hours ago, mattarosa said:

https://www.stevensvwspares.com/vw-polo-sunroofs-sunroof-motors/open-air-roof

That's a solution by the looks of things, I would strongly suggest your mechanism has seized, have you tried folding it back by hand, I know the motor isn't attached but if you pushed the first brace that's supposed to go up then the front of the roof should move. Bear in mind wd40 is not a replacement for grease...

Hold motor in place and activate with switch to wind back. This exposes the plate that receives the set screws that hold the motor.

Rich there are no drain holes on the open airs, shitty design is a seal around the inside, the usual reason for the leaking is that the seal has gone and comes as part of the roof, all in one.

The cables you need Mike are part number  6N0898031

See diagram in link because I'm kind.

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2005/drive_standart/441/hg_ug/875/subcategory/875010/part_id/0/lang/e

Cheers for the info.

The problem seems to be that the drive cables are seized solid.

Even after a good dose of WD40, there is no give. I’ve given the roof a good push but, there’s no give due to everything being seized.

When fitted, the motor works fine but you can hear it slipping on the worm drive as it is seized.

in light of this, I can’t see a way to get into the mechanism to repair or free it up?

As I need to be in it on Friday, I may just have to seal it shut to stop it leaking.

Im not keen on paying £150 for a roof with a 1-2cm cut in it?

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10 hours ago, mike.gamble said:

Im not keen on paying £150 for a roof with a 1-2cm cut in it?

You are really just buying a working drive. I'm no expert, but could you swap over your current canvas with the torn one when the weather is better?

I have bought from Stevens in the past, they are not cheapest, but the mk3 door I got from them years ago was wrapped very well and I seem to recall they dispatch quickly.

If this is not this you need to chuck the current roof back on for Friday.

 

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If you get a new mechanism - the Stevens one or another -it wont matter how you get into your old roof your current mechanism is toast, as long as your good canvas is kept good (still assuming it is possible) to swap over.

Personally, I think it is too tight time wise to get another roof for Friday, just chuck your old one back on and duct tape the edges - don't bother putting the roof lining in. this buys you some time to think and research.

Not entirely sure why you need the roof entirely fixed just now in February?

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As Matt rightly pointed out, WD40 is not grease or a penetrating oil. WD = Water Displacement. Get some proper penetrating oil (Plus Gas is a good one) and start trying to free it up. I'm talking spray it, then leave it for 6 hours, then another spray. Repeat every few hours and if you could get a toothbrush in there to spread the oil about that would help too. It took me around 24 hours to free a rusted heat shield bolt on a crappy Vauxhall once. It came.... eventually and no need for an oxyacetylene torch.

WD40 is neither grease nor a penetrating oil and you really won't have any luck freeing it if you stick with WD.

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