James_VW Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 Needed for lupo gti... Are all bearings and hubs the same? has anyone had to change these and got a review? Which to avoid etc? found orbis, topran and (undeclaired ebay) hubs at good prices. bearings - orbis, any others? Basically just asking if anyone has changed these and got anything to input/review Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mobieus_uk Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 just done the front bearings on my Lupo, theres a thread with some of the problems it encountered but it i was to do it again I would allow to replace lower ball joints and track rod ends , this means if you have problems undoing them to remove the hub you can cut them off and replace with new, another thing i would have done differently would be the way I use the bearing removal tool, the cheap ebay one is not really up to the job, its seats the new bearings perfectly but struggles to press out old bearings and ripped all the threads on the tool doing so, to do it again i would hammer the old out and use the tool to seat the new, or just go hydraulic all the way bearings where £8.80 each off ebay, came with new hub nut and a circlip when you press the wheel hub into the bearings it will try to splt the bearing (its made up of 2 halves)so once you done that reverse the hub the just tap it back in, it will probably close up when you tightned the hub nut which has to goto 200nm, then back off 1 turn then 50nm, my torque wrench doesnt to up to 200nnm to just did it as tight as i could Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_VW Posted October 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 1 hour ago, Mobieus_uk said: just done the front bearings on my Lupo, theres a thread with some of the problems it encountered but it i was to do it again I would allow to replace lower ball joints and track rod ends , this means if you have problems undoing them to remove the hub you can cut them off and replace with new, another thing i would have done differently would be the way I use the bearing removal tool, the cheap ebay one is not really up to the job, its seats the new bearings perfectly but struggles to press out old bearings and ripped all the threads on the tool doing so, to do it again i would hammer the old out and use the tool to seat the new, or just go hydraulic all the way bearings where £8.80 each off ebay, came with new hub nut and a circlip when you press the wheel hub into the bearings it will try to splt the bearing (its made up of 2 halves)so once you done that reverse the hub the just tap it back in, it will probably close up when you tightned the hub nut which has to goto 200nm, then back off 1 turn then 50nm, my torque wrench doesnt to up to 200nnm to just did it as tight as i could Cheers for the reply. I know it's a bit early to tell if the bearing you've put in are any good, but how are they holding up? There's quite a few different bearings about with people saying to go with known brands such as orbis and skf.... Will be getting local garage to knock bearings out and in for free, not worth it for me buying tools for a one off job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted October 8, 2016 Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 (edited) FAG, SKF and TIMKEN are generally thought to be the best. If you accidentally separate the inner race when pressing in the hub, you've just permanently broken the seal... Pull it all out, throw it away and start over. What happens is that the edge of the rubber seal gets folded over when it pops off. So if you push it together again, the fold acts as a moisture trap and actually forces dirt and water into the seal instead of keeping it out when it's running. The bearing will work but won't last very long, since lots of debris will end up inside the ball race as it's being driven. Not the best bearing design.... Edited October 8, 2016 by mk2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mobieus_uk Posted October 8, 2016 Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 9 hours ago, mk2 said: FAG, SKF and TIMKEN are generally thought to be the best. If you accidentally separate the inner race when pressing in the hub, you've just permanently broken the seal... Pull it all out, throw it away and start over. What happens is that the edge of the rubber seal gets folded over when it pops off. So if you push it together again, the fold acts as a moisture trap and actually forces dirt and water into the seal instead of keeping it out when it's running. The bearing will work but won't last very long, since lots of debris will end up inside the ball race as it's being driven. Not the best bearing design.... i was much more careful on the second bearing by holding against the inner bit while pulling in the wheel hub, it still wanted to seperate so will see how it goes, if they go it will be a easy job as everything has been apart and wont be battling 20years of rust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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