James_VW Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Got hold of a few new parts wishbones, droplinks, tie rods, ball joints whats the best way to protect these from future rust? been looking at waxoyl and 3m rubberised spray. Anybody got suggestions? (going for longevity) also need to remove driveshafts to replace boots so may as well clean these up, best method? (wirebrush, kurust?, zinc primer? top coat? waxoyl?) any help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyEunos Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Waxoyl is filthy awful stuff and needs doing again pretty regularly as it washes/chips off in high abrasion areas. It's also pretty outdated these days as are most of the oldschool 'shutz' treatments. The 3M type products cause more damage than good IMO, once the rubbery compound is chipped it tends to trap moisture/salt beneath the skin compounding problems and in many instances creating issues that weren't there before. Most 'in the know' folk these days tend to use proper 21st century anti-corrosion products like Dinitrol or BiltHamber products, personally I prefer the latter on the basis I've known the Dinitrol stuff to dry out and peel after a number of years. For the purpose you mention Dynax UB would be my choice, it's top stuff and you can buy it an aerosol format or in 1l or 5l pails and brush it on....http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-ub RE dealing with existing corrosion, I generally hit it with a drill mounted wire brush convert it using BiltHamber's Hydrate80...http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/hydrate-80 followed by paint or treatment with UB. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_VW Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Thanks very much for the reply! Lots of good information there, will have a look at some of the products, seems as though there exactly what I need! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mobieus_uk Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 don't worry they are all designed to be weathered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Underseal. Retro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj1 Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 5 hours ago, Skezza said: Underseal. Retro Very crude and messy though. Keep on top of cleaning them and if you notice any coming through, take off, clean up and re-paint / get powdercoated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 1 hour ago, cj1 said: Very crude and messy though. Keep on top of cleaning them and if you notice any coming through, take off, clean up and re-paint / get powdercoated. I don't think anyone underseals anymore lol. I know someone who hammerites everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj1 Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 16 hours ago, Skezza said: I don't think anyone underseals anymore lol. I know someone who hammerites everything Took my first step towards that yesterday, painted an anti-roll bar in red hammerite.. See how long it lasts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyEunos Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 (edited) Undersealing is still very big in Jap car circles TBH, Landrover/off roading lads use it loads too. It's also worth mentioning that pretty much all manufacturers underseal cars before they're sold. Believe me, undersealing definately still happens however 'retro' or 'crude' you lot might find it As a seperate observation, VAG cars are amazingly good at resisting corosion IME. I've seen 3 year old Mazda's that look far worse underneath than my 15 year old Lupo, the same was true of my Mk4 Golf so we all have that in our favour, it still hasn't stopped me from adding extra protection/treatment though... Make of that what you will Edited October 6, 2016 by JoeyEunos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 18 minutes ago, JoeyEunos said: FWIW undersealing is still very big in Jap car circles TBH, Landrover/off roading lads use it loads too. It's also worth mentioning that pretty much all manufacturers underseal cars before they're sold, undersealing definately still happens however 'retro' or 'crude' you lot might find it VAG cars are amazingly good at resisting corosion IME, I've seen 3 year old Mazda's that look worse underneath than my 15 year old Lupo, the same was true of my Mk4 Golf, it still hasn't stopped me from protecting/treating mine though I thought underseal was made obsolete when companies started galvanizing body's and installing big undertrays to reduce the amount of water making it into the car chassis. Throw in the fact less and less people store vehicles in garages and I think that's a big contributing factor. I think design has a lot to do with keeping corrosion away. The Lupo is certainly a good design and other than the roof gutter, doesn't seem to suffer so much. Whereas the Ford Ka (pre the current one) was littered with design faults that heavily contributed to it's now almost legendary status as having mega rust issues. I was unaware that Mazdas had such issues. Fiat seem to be quite good for not rusting....... But Fiat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyEunos Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 11 hours ago, Skezza said: I thought underseal was made obsolete when companies started galvanizing body's and installing big undertrays to reduce the amount of water making it into the car chassis. Most manufacturers still use underseal, although not the gloopy Waxoyl types, it's usually the harder textured/stonechip like surface cover that's applied these days (I know Ford and Vauxhall use it even to this day) They almost all use cavity wax in box sections etc too. 11 hours ago, Skezza said: I think design has a lot to do with keeping corrosion away. The Lupo is certainly a good design and other than the roof gutter, doesn't seem to suffer so much. Whereas the Ford Ka (pre the current one) was littered with design faults that heavily contributed to it's now almost legendary status as having mega rust issues. I was unaware that Mazdas had such issues. Fiat seem to be quite good for not rusting....... But Fiat... I agree, the Lupo's are remarkably good, as are Mk4 Golfs although we're starting to see corrosion forming around sills and rear arches these days. They're certinly better than most cars of that age and for that I'm gratefull. RE Mazda's, they're shocking Up until the latest model of MX5 they aren't galvanised (And that one may not be either for all I know). Truly a modern day Lancia in terms of their susceptibility to rust and certainly just as bad as the Ford Ka (Former Ka owner here!) Ford actually own a 33% stake in Mazda, coincidence? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 I love Lancias Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weslangdon Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 Waxoyl is still the dogs for doors and internal panels, generally though Lupo/Arosa chassis don't rust, issue is the suspension bits and the roof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weslangdon Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 2 hours ago, JoeyEunos said: Most manufacturers still use underseal, although not the gloopy Waxoyl types, it's usually the harder textured/stonechip like surface cover that's applied these days (I know Ford and Vauxhall use it even to this day) They almost all use cavity wax in box sections etc too. I agree, the Lupo's are remarkably good, as are Mk4 Golfs although we're starting to see corrosion forming around sills and rear arches these days. They're certinly better than most cars of that age and for that I'm gratefull. RE Mazda's, they're shocking Up until the latest model of MX5 they aren't galvanised (And that one may not be either for all I know). Truly a modern day Lancia in terms of their susceptibility to rust and certainly just as bad as the Ford Ka (Former Ka owner here!) Ford actually own a 33% stake in Mazda, coincidence? Mercedes benz cars between 1993 and 2004 are truly shocking for rust, something to do with the water based paints they used and an over all drop in quality that came with the Chrysler merger, post 2004 they are allegedly galvanised but still have issues. French cars, Renaults in particular are now very rust resistant. Recent VW's often have rust issues on their front wings so far from perfect, as an anecdote my Mk2 Golf GTI was still leaking waxoyl from the rear door when I scrapped it after a 20+ lifespan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralphonzo Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 On 28/09/2016 at 6:35 PM, JoeyEunos said: ...RE dealing with existing corrosion, I generally hit it with a drill mounted wire brush convert it using BiltHamber's Hydrate80...http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/hydrate-80 followed by paint or treatment with UB. Hope that helps. Just wanted to say I can vouch for this. I used this stuff on my rear axle last year. It's a '99 and it was very ratty. Did that about a year ago and used stone chip on top, and it still looks almost as good as new. Doing the front subframe and wishbones now. Just be aware that it takes 24 hours to dry before you can paint it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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