christophertr6 Posted October 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Sold. Jeeez that was fast. Thanks for trying. I'll put a standard set of discs on for now & keep my eye out for the right carriers. I think I will get the car back into use for a while and see how it feels then carry out some changes - poly bushes, big discs etc, but not lowering. I like the standard look.Found the 'box level plug. Nice little dribble came out so at least its level is good and looked pretty clear as well.As the cooling system is drained I'm planning to run some cleaner through the system with water prior to refilling with G13. I'm hoping this will clear the expansion tank of deposits so the level is easier to read. Any comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophertr6 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Ok, Next issue. Put front panel on and filled with water & cleaning agent & started the car up. Let it get to temperature and check cabin for heat - but blowing cool with dial set to full heat. Stopped & let car cool then topped off the expansion tank & tried again. Still no heat. Drained system again & took some of hoses off from heater matrix & check for blockage - none evident. Put mild blow of compressed ait through the matrix and it blew out some water so no blockage there. Refilled with water & try again, feeling the heater hoses. The flow side seamed to get hot but the return stayed cool. As my car has a/c but its discharged at present so not working could this be affecting a sensor to prevent water being sent to the heater matrix? Is there a valve on the heating side that could stop hot flow to the matrix? Oh for a manual (an I've forgotten password to Elsawin - ****). Help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 All your lines should get up to temp regardless of a/c really, maybe it's just air locked, I remember having a radiator to replace on one car and it refused to circulate until it's been down the road, left it idle for as long as I dared and it still wouldn't circulate properly. Also I'd check the thermostat isn't stuck closed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carrera-gt Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Sounds like the heater control valve is not opening, I had the same problem where the clip holding the cable outer sleeve was not holding it and the valve was not moving so you need to find that, usually buried sometimes inside the firewall always a pig to get to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophertr6 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Thanks for the answers. I'm a ways off getting it on the road to give it a run but sounds like you'd be right. I've taken the stat out and it looks in fine condition (but that's no real test I know).When running the car up I noticed the expansion tank level drop at a specific point so I guess that was when the stat opened. Heater control valve? I've seen such devices on older cars such as my old Midget when a cable actually opened a valve but is there such an arrangement on the Lupo? I had a good look around the under-bonnet area - with the air filter box off - and didn't see any cables. Is it operated by the temp dial in the cabin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 I dunno what valve carrera is talking about or if he/she means the Bowden cable that operates the various mechanisms inside the heater matrix assembly that's operated by the dials inside, but if that is the case the hoses should still all reach temperature. Have you tried bleeding it by squeezing the hoses to try to get rid of all pockets of air that way? Im assuming you must've at least done that! ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_273 Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Run it for longer. The temperature gauge in the dash over reads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Don't listen to him, he conspires with the French... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophertr6 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 All squeezed - but I'll give it all another go tomorrow. Thanks for the interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_273 Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I'm only here for the better weather Pete! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 That's just what they're telling you to say!! Flippin cheese harvesters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Loop Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I'm only here for the better weather Pete!Say that in two weeks' time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carrera-gt Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Sorry Pete but the return hose will not get hot if the valve is closed as there is no flow, the supply side gets hot via thermal syphon action. The valve may be built into the heater airbox, If so it's a bigger PIA to fix as more has to come out to get to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 No need to be sorry, I have just had a few matrix' out and never seen an external valve or owt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carrera-gt Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 The valve is there somewhere, there is a you tube video showing the bowden cables from the heater control panel going off into the guts of the car its just a question of following them, finding it and making sure it's working.The valves on ebay and GSF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Good knowledge there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophertr6 Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 The A/C is now working - my e-bay compressor is not the most efficient apparently but gives air at 8 degrees in the cabin, and the system was pressure tested to 200psi before the vac test so no leaks. Still no heat though. I do believe its air locked and will have to wait for a road run to see if it clears.Starting to reassemble things now. Need a few bits for the headlight washer system as it suffered in the original accident - and impossible to find. I'll have to buy new from VW . That little cover plate is £18! Fortunately its just the nozzle on the spray mechanism that's bust as the cylinder thing itself is nearly £70.I think I'll just rattle can paint the worst stuff and get the car on the road. Then I can drive it to the paint shop. Its still got an MoT, and as the VIC check is now not required I'll be getting the log book in the post any day. Still got the other pop out window to do but that's not a major task. The road beckons! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Loop Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Good news! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 The A/C is now working - my e-bay compressor is not the most efficient apparently but gives air at 8 degrees in the cabin, and the system was pressure tested to 200psi before the vac test so no leaks. Still no heat though. I do believe its air locked and will have to wait for a road run to see if it clears.Starting to reassemble things now. Need a few bits for the headlight washer system as it suffered in the original accident - and impossible to find. I'll have to buy new from VW . That little cover plate is £18! Fortunately its just the nozzle on the spray mechanism that's bust as the cylinder thing itself is nearly £70.I think I'll just rattle can paint the worst stuff and get the car on the road. Then I can drive it to the paint shop. Its still got an MoT, and as the VIC check is now not required I'll be getting the log book in the post any day. Still got the other pop out window to do but that's not a major task. The road beckons!Rattlecanning a plate that small should be a doddle. Primer, Rattlecan, sand, rattlecan, sand, rattlecan, sand light gauge, clear coat, sand, clear coat. A few layers and you could have an almost factory look. Don't take it a paint shop for something that small man. Easy job that is!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophertr6 Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Ah......phrased that badly. paint needed on front bumper lower & upper, n/s wing, n/s door, rear quarter, edge of tailgate, edge of rear bumper, oh, and the roof. Managed to find a red bonnet so at least that can go straight on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 oooooooooh okay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophertr6 Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Took a punt on a couple of Mk3 GTI callipers (both O/S) but with the carriers from eBay. Arrived yesterday and I do believe they are the right ones for the 280mm disc conversion. Cleaned them up last night and put a coat of Red Smoothrite and the look presentable. Ordered some discs so have to wait to see if it all fits correctly. I was considering running the standard ones for a while then changing, just to feel what the difference is like, but on reflection I now have brand new standard discs that I can sell on, rather than "used" ones......and then again I may well keep them to sell with the car and sell the 280 conversion as a kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LexG Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Looking forward to seeing this thing back I the road ... Yeah it probably was me you saw... There's a few lupos around chertsey actually but haven't seen any other Gti s... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophertr6 Posted November 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Shouldn't be too long now.One of the last remaining bits to do is get the headlight washer system fit again. I now have most of the bits but there is part of the washer cylinder mounting bracket which is part of the original bumper, and not available as a VW part. Does anyone have a wrecked bumper for sale or at least the N/S bracket? I'm considering fabricating one and gluing it in place but that's a last resort. An original bit would be nice.Examined the rear brakes and fount that rear discs had corroded unevenly. Got new set & am part way through fitting. Used a valve spring compressor g clamp and an angle grinder spanner to gently wind the rear pistons in. Worked a treat. Prior to that I changed the brake fluid using an ezebleed. Great piece of kit. I'll put a couple of pics up later. Is there a better host site than photo bucket? Just seems like a pain in the butt to use quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christophertr6 Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Nearly there. Bonnet on. Wing needs to go for painting.Eze-bleed in actionShiny new rear discs. (Shock shroud dropped - must fix that)New big discs. Fluid being changed.This is the washer bracket I need for the N/S headlight washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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