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Found 14 results

  1. Hi, we have an intermittent fault with the boot light not coming on when we open it. We have worked out that it is the switch, plunger, that is at fault but we cannot find the part number or what it is specifically referred to in VAG catalogues. It's the white plastic cylindrical sprung loaded switch that has a screw hole to one side and fits in the bottom right corner of the body of the shell where the tailgate closes onto and is about 2.5 inches long. It also has two connectors, rather than one that is relying on an earth. We've searched everywhere for boot switch etc but cannot find a replacement. Any ideas where we can find one please...
  2. Hi all, the ignition switch has gone on me Lupo. Just a few questions I need answered: Is it a hard job? Do I need to remove the steering wheel? And finally if I do need to remove the steering wheel, do I need a puller to remove steering wheel spline? Cheers all
  3. I noticed all 3 of my brake lights have gone on my 2003 1.0 VW Lupo. So instantly thinking it's the switch. Have replaced the switch and they still don't work. Checked the fuse and they're fine. Just for good measure I replaced the bulbs and still don't work. What else could it be??? Can anyone help?
  4. Hey guys, My dog got around my key and chewed it. I want to change it with an OEM flip key from local dealer, only I don't know what to ask them? Is there a part number i could get? I have central locking, with 2 buttons on my original keys. Thank you!
  5. Can anyone help me with a problem on my car, have changed the brake light switch to get rid of the epc light on the dash. now the Brake lights are on permanently, even with the keys removed/ ignition off. Battery was disconnected before fitting the switch. Help Please !!!
  6. Hi All, just picked up my first Arosa and I love it! It came with a driver side window that wouldn't move at all, having previously been sticking halfway. My father and I tried a bunch of things I've seen suggested on various forums, including here, greased the runners, oiled the cables, greased the worm gear, etc, nothing presented a permanent solution, the window would work ok, but once it met any resistance it would just refuse to go any further. Switchgear was ok. After a while we had it so that it would move, but only up or down one step at a time, and you had to taker your finger off the button and press it again to get it to move another half an inch. Then it just stopped again and the relay would just click, as before, no movement. Having fished the glass out of the door and taken the mechanism back off, we tried something new. Turns out the problem was in the motor. The contacts were A-OK but there was a bunch of carbon dust in and around there and, importantly, the plastic/brass ring that the motor speed sensors pick up on. Pulled the shaft including the windings out of the gearbox and pulley housing, removed the motor casing, and blasted everything out with an air line. Greased the shaft ends up, put it back together and it works perfectly! I guess the dust was causing shorts or making the electronics think the window had jammed or something, thus preventing movement for safety. Anyway, just thought I'd share in case anyone has had a similar problem but not been able to fix theirs, I don't think I've seen this solution posted anywhere. Apologies if it was common knowledge. Love my new '01 Arosa S 1.0, love the forums! Thanks, Tango
  7. Hi all, Can anyone give any advise as to why the switch on the driver's side for the passenger window allows me to move the window up but not down. Also, the driver side window sometimes sticks/goes back down instead of up. Is it just a case of needing a replacement motor for both? Thanks in advance.
  8. Owenjones91

    Golf tdi injectors on a lupo tdi?

    Any one know if you Can fit Golf 1.9 tdi injectors to a lupo 1.4 tdi?
  9. GTI Roberto

    Light issues

    Hi Guys, Having a intermittent fault with my side lamps, the left hand side (front and rear) occasionaly do not come on however, always work with the parking lights?? Could this be a dodgy switch? massive pain in the but and got the MOT coming up in august so want to fix it in plently of time before the MOT! Cheers, rob.
  10. I've just bought a complete Mk2 bootlid and i intend to fit it to my Mk1. This is a non central locking bootlid so wiring will have to be transferred and a new lock and handle will need to be purchased. However to be able to use my existing key, regardless of which handle is fitted, the lock and barrel will have to be switched OR modified. I have done the latter and modified the lock to be fully functional with my existing key. This is how it was done: I removed the handle from the boot to do this but it can be done with it still fitted. 6 Nuts is all that is holding it in so its not too hard to remove and makes life a lot easier later on. First things first, you will need to remove the e clip and lock arm There will be a C shaped clip retaining the next part, i have already removed it in the above picture. This clip is the difficult one to re-install as it is retaining a spring plate. Be careful when removing this as the springs are under pressure and WILL want to fly everywhere. Once that clip is removed all of the other parts should just slip out. When i extracted these i made sure to keep them lined up but they should all slip together one way so it really doesn't matter, i was just being extra cautious. The business end is pictured on the left of the above, this is a 2 piece assembly, once the sheath is removed all the teeth should pop out. This is the bit you will need to swap with your existing part so that your original key will work correctly in your new lock. If however you are attempting to modify it, there are a few things to note, the modified lock will NOT be as secure as the original as it will now fit YOUR key as well as the donor cars key and any other key in between. The less modification needed to make YOUR key work, the more secure the lock will be. I was lucky as very little modification was required. When the key is inserted, all of the teeth should be flush with the body. As you can see in the picture above there is about 3 teeth that are not flush when MY key is inserted. All that is needed is for the teeth to be ground down flush, i did this with my dremel but it could also be done with a file. Test that it slides in the barrel when the key is inserted before you refit it and assemble in reverse order.
  11. Hi there guys, I recently bought r32 heated leathers for my Lupo which came with the loom and also the mk4 golf switches which fit the later Lupo dash. My Lupo has the earlier dash which means that these switches will not fit. Then I stumbled on a pair of the switches on ebay and bought them to find out that the connectors on the rear are completely different to those of mk4 switches so i cant connect the loom up to the switches. Is there any chance i can purchase connectors for the earlier switches from anywhere therefore allowing me to mod the loom to fit them or have i got to buy another loom that will fit into the connectors? Abit of a dilemma really haha but yeah any help would be appreciated, here are some pictures of what i have: Loom which i recieved with seats MK4 switches/connector Lupo Early dash switches/Connector
  12. Hey guys.. So When I bought my car my drivers side window was very temperamental worked when wanted too, then suddenly stopped working altogether. Switch clicked but window never went down. Today attempted to see if I can fix the problem myself, took door card off and switch out and gave the insides of the switch a clean and re-installed it. Now I plugged it back in and once again didn't work, however I swapped the passenger wiring around with drivers side and it worked. What I'm asking is if anyone has a solution on how to fix this, Is this a wiring issue and will have to buy a new wiring loom or will it be a miss connection somewhere?? Many thanks, Tom
  13. Hi, was wondering if someone might be able to help there is a nice hole where my drivers side window (and presumably central locking) switch should be. I imagine it was a moment of genius by the previous owner who after, unsuccessfully, diagnosing the problem decided to lose the switch in question. Whatever the underlying problem i will need a new switch, does anyone know the best way to get one cheaper than vw direct. had a look on ebay and only found this http://www.ebay.co.u...53#ht_500wt_744 which doesn't do the window... as i've never seen one its quite difficult to gauge exactly what went there ! Its a 1.0L 2000 model Any help much appreciated, cheers team!
  14. Hi everyone I bought my girlfriend a 1999 SDi 1.7 lupo about a month ago for what i thought was a bargain price. I thought at the time 'I'll spend the next 2 weeks discovering why it was so cheap' now we know ! ok , having repaired both lock mechanisms with the usual ebay kits replaced the clutch and gear gate rod tightened up the loose pendulum support ... I'm left with : a flashing red exclamation brake warning lamp on the dash : comes on when I hit 10 mph accompanied by 3 bleeps fluid level looks ok, front pads plenty wear left (any sensors on the rear drums ?) only mystery is a plastic pipe leaving the top pf the brake fluid reservoir that's had a metal tube crimped off to block it ! what should that have instead ? I've looked on elsawin and can't see any diagram of the fluid reservoir) anybody want to help a newby who's stumped ? cheers ! no hazards. (new switch/relay made no difference) should there be a permanent live to a terminal on the switch ? cos there isn't ...
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