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Found 9 results

  1. RXMarko

    Remove open air!!

    Hi all, new member here. Proud owner of a 1.4 16v 100hp open air Lupo!! Open air roof (as many are) is in a bit of a bad way and I want to replace it but with a solid roof. My question is, has anyone had any experience replacing the actual roof panel!!?? Plenty of lupos about at breakers yards... Cheers!!
  2. Danslupo

    Hello!

    I just picked up my first VW Lupo. I'm going to use it as a bit of a project, as it needs some love and attention thanks to the previous owner treating it like a bin!!! Anyway, it seems to drive fine but bodywork has some touches rust and chopped paint. Biggest pain is the roof gutter metal trim has popped up at the front of the car and I can't seem to push it back in! I've stuck it down with gaffa tape for now!!!! Can I slide it out and refit. There is some of the dreaded rust but it looks like it had work done previous (watchdog!!!) and I wanted to take them out and clean up and grease. Any advice would be welcome!! I'm a newbie at this, so sorry if I'm sounding clueless!!!
  3. Hey there, i just bought a 1.4 Lupo with a folding roof. Does anyone know how i can convert it to a normal hardtop roof? Many Thanks
  4. Right, so after trimming 2 headlining's i thought i should probably put up a how to for anybody attempting the same thing. What you will need: Spray glue - High temp to withstand the summer heat pounding the hell out of your roof Material - I used OEM spec foam backed textured nylon (Audi) Knife - Preferably a scalpel Scissors - A strong pair Space - Space is essential as the headlining is a large piece of car, i recommend doing it on a table Advised to have: Hot glue gun - Handy tool for any trimming attempt, Re-sticking clips/brackets and trim clip bases Hot glue - Black high viscosity for a strong hold Spray glue - An extra can is always handy 1. Remove old headlining Some people fing this difficult and end up snapping the clips that hold the rear in. The important thing to remember is that the headlining comes out at the FRONT first. To do this you MUST remove the grab handles, interior light and sunvisors, C pillar trims are optional but you might find it easier to do so. The sunvisors are a serious pain to remove but if you push the base towards the rear of the car whilst pulling down it should disengage the front part of the clip, this is not always the case though. You need to pull it out in an arc motion because of the shape of the clip. Brute force WILL damage the clip so just be patient and it will come out in time - i spent over 10 minutes on the passenger side while the drivers side was less than 1. Once all hardware is removed you should be able to lower the front a bit, wiggle it backwards a little to disengage the clips then push the headlining towards the windscreen over the top of the interior mirror. Its just a case of removing it from the car now - i found it easier to remove it from the boot with the rear headrests out. 2. Sise up the material Quite simple really, roll out your chosen material and place the headlining on top of it to size up how much you will need. When you have the correct size, cut it so you have slack on either side for wrapping. 3. Prep For this i used a table, much easier than doing it on the floor plus you can spin the headlining around on it as it is bowed so you have access to all areas. Lay out your headlining on the table and wipe with a damp cloth to take off any lint and crap that is lurking on your headliner. Drape your material over the headliner and move it into position so that the material covers the whole of the headliner, smooth it into the major contours to check it still covers everything. Fold the material in half, length ways, so that you have easy access to the back of the material, which you will be glueing, and the headliner, which you will also be glueing. 4. Glue Cover both the material and the headliner with your spray glue, cover a minimum of 80% of each surface to ensure proper adhesion when pressed together. Once the glue has been sprayed and both surfaces have been covered. WAIT. This is an essential step of the glueing process, you must allow 1-5 minutes depending on the glue for the solvents to evaporate. This is the 'tack time' and will ensure the glue is at its strongest point when the mating of the materials occur. -ALWAYS read the instructions on the can as they vary from make to make- When the glue has tacked, pull the folded half of the material to the very back/front of the headliner depending which end you started with. Work from the center out ensuring there are no creases. When you get to the grab handle recesses, leave a little slack either side and push the material to the deepest point. Only leave a little slack or it will crease, too little slack and you will find it difficult to get the deepest recess to stick as it wants to pull its self out. Repeat this with the other side, the sun visor area is the most difficult as you need to stick it in a less conventional way - usually the rule is work from the center out so you would be smoothing the interior mirror section down and around the base of the visor recesses first. This leaves too little slack. Honestly i cannot tell you how to do this as it is down to the skill/judgement of the trimmer although you should get the feel for it and work it out for yourself. 5. Cutting and wrapping NEVER cut flush. Always wrap the material to the back side of whatever you are trimming, THEN cut. Flip the headlining upside down and run the can of glue around the edge, overlapping both the material and the headlining so they both get a coating of glue. -TACK TIME- Fold the long flat spots around and push them in leaving the corners till last, trim the excess as you go ONLY when it has proper adhesion. When you get to the corners, you may need to 'finger' the material. Dirty as this sounds, it is the process of cutting little fingers/slits in material (usually these slits go deep, almost flush with the piece getting trimmed) so that it can be pulled and stretched around tight corners, the fingers allow you to cut down to a flush level yet retain the strength of wrapping so that no peel occurs. Once all wrapping is complete you can now cut out the visor clip holes, the interior light hole and slit where the grab handle clips slot. This is where a fresh scalpel comes into its own, it slits through the grab handle slots like a hot knife through butter, you'll probably find it difficult without a scalpel because i started to struggle when my scalpel started to go slightly blunt. For the interior light hole, cut an X shape from corner to corner, trim off the points then fold the flaps back on themselves and stick down. -CONGRATULATIONS- you've trimmed your headliner Now all thats left is to fit your new headliner. To do this, feed the headliner through the boot so that the front is between the mirror and the windscreen, lift the rear of the liner and feed the clips into the slots into the roof. Push the headliner back to the rear and up. Squeeze the edges up into the roof, be careful to avoid the C pillar trim clips when your doing this. The headliner should hold its own now. Feed the interior light wire through the hole and clip the light in. Then fit all the rest of the roof peripherals and your done.
  5. Okay so tonight I put my deposit down on this sweet little green 1.4 Lupo Sport, 84k on the clock, a few scratches but rad for a first car. For a first car, yes being 20 and only just getting his first car, laugh it up! I have a good few plans for her, first being cleaned and cleaned again, then slammed....as you do.... Already have done a mock up of what i want the dash to look like.... hope to chat soon! Alex
  6. TylerG

    Lupo interior..?

    I recently bought my first car (1.4 16v lupo) and I seen a lot of people with aftermarket interior (clearly not standard) and I can't seem to find where to get hold of some? Such as new rear seats, new roof linings.. Any help is appreciated
  7. Danyutz

    Roof Bars

    Hey guys, I've been looking for OEM roof bars, but the rarity of these made me look for alternatives ( not to mention the expensive shipment to Romania ) and found some Italian brand called La Prealpina, does a pair which look close as OEM ones. If you're like me, looking for the roundness and the flush fitment of the OEM bars, you'll like these, they are called Prealpina LP51 and they come for half the price of the OEM bars - you should know they are made of steel, not aluminium, hence the price.
  8. I'm sure that this has been asked many times but, I want to make my headlining black and I have a three questions. 1. how do I get the ****er off? b. what's the best way to do it? paint or using some black cloth and adhesive spray? 4. what happens if I fold or crease the roof lining before it goes back in? Many Thanks A Faggy Lupo Owner!
  9. SamEdwardSwain1

    Roof Box

    Hi guys and gals i have been wanting a roof box for my car for a while now and wanted to know what the best size to get would be i have seen a few lupo's that have pulled off the roof box IE: silver's GTI this is one i spotted while looking for boxes http://www.flickr.com/photos/retromotoring/5848932049/ i have a t reg lupo in (LD1B) yellow on standard 13" steel's lowered 55mm atm going on coillies next year though any pics would help loads thanks for your time
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