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Found 8 results

  1. First of all hello to everyone, I am new to this and will probably annoy most of you as I am sure this has been covered before. I I am in the middle of an engine swap, I have a 1.4s (75hp) and am looking to swap for what I believe to be a (100hp) 1.4 sport engine, this is out of my friends car and was a second engine to him so don't know much about it... Went to fit it yesterday to get it all hooked up (on my origional ecu) didn't fire no spark, then went to switch his ecu to find out it is totally different, so would I be able to just switch out the engine loom of his car (100hp engine) if so how do I go about doing this? Where does the loom go to? Thanks in advance Kyle
  2. Lupo GTI Engine and Gearbox Description: For sale is the engine from my Lupo GTI, it's currently on 100,000 miles (may be slightly higher, can't remember). Will include coil pack, plugs, leads, inlet and exhaust manifold. Can include ECU + immobiliser box + immobiliser chip (x2) for an extra £50. Regularly serviced and maintained, folder full of history for the girl! I have a video of it running and a video showing a compression test across all cylinders. I'm 90% sure the gearbox has been rebuilt within its life but will have to confirm, all the signs of it being rebuilt are there. Location: Ringmer - Near Brighton in the South East. Postage: Collection is preferred. I will not ship. I can deliver if pre-arranged (within reason). Price: £500 for the two £300 each if separate. Thanks for looking!
  3. So I've got a 2001 VW Lupo, AUA engine. Manual. One day it just wouldn't start. turns over once but then cuts out. Got a guy out, ECU displaying error code P1570, ECU blocked. Bought a new ecu, got another guy to try and recode both and he failed. Another guy has tried to virginse the ECU but every time he recodes it, it pulls all the old data back. It seems like no one can fix this car. I've just bought a new engine, clutch and gearbox for it, so I don't really want to give up on it. If anyone has any ideas how I can get this fixed up, that'd be amazing, I simply can't afford taking it to a VW dealer. And I'm getting desperate, it's been broken since June. Cheers, Ashley
  4. After recently K.O'ing my battery my EPC and check engine light have been on, i also have the issue that my ecu port does not seem to work so I can't plug it in and find out whats up! can anyone help? I don't know where to begin looking, as the EPC light isnt on constantly where as the check engine light seems to be majority of the time. The car will start occassionally with neither on but after a couple of minutes they come back on Please help!
  5. Bing

    Hi from Luton

    Hello fellow VW owners, this is my first post so not sure if I'm doing this right! I bought myself a 2001 Lupo S 1.4 75bhp around xmas time 2014 and never realised there was an owners club for it. It's my first car and was the cheapest car to insure for me (still cost me £1800 to insure it with a telematics black box) so still not cheap! Love the car to bits even though it needs some bodywork (I'll post pics if you guys wanna see) and I think its got an ECU fault and it makes a weird gargling/murmuring/chugging sound when you start and idle it when its cold. Apart from that it runs a treat! Hope to meet the regulars and get stuck in! Kasim
  6. Hi, I have a golf 1.4 16v 75bhp, (tried posting on golf forums but got no help at all) its an x reg, it has a polo 1.6gti throttlebody, injectors and inlet manifold.Also has an induction kit, uprated HT leads & a scorpion backbox (if that matters) At the minute the air/fuel mix is all to cock (i think)it wont rev past 2-3k with foot flat to floor, but it will gradually go past 3k if you gently press it then you can floor it and it will happily rev to the limiter. Also if you try to floor it at 2k revs it sort of misfires and sounds like its backfiring through the intake Does it just need a re-map or should I try putting the 1.4 injectors back in and removing the induction kit, because i still have all the spare parts. Cheers If it does need a remap where is the best place to get one?
  7. Basically my car suddenly stopped working, if you go to fire it it cranks and does a very short burst as though it's about to fire but cuts out, I've had a few mechanics on it but none could find the problem, it's been in vw all week and they've finally put it down to the ecu, if you programme the immo to the ecu it will start but come back to it 5 minutes later and it will have forgotten it and need programming again, What I'm wondering is whether I could get a donor car which I've already sourced at a breakers, take the ecu, immo, transponder chips out of it and put them in mine and it just work with no programming needed and if will I need anything else aswell? Vw want £700-800 for the part and fitting which I can't afford expecially on top of the £300 I owe them for diagnostics Any help is much appreciated!
  8. Right, i've just bought an Arosa sport Mk2 (arosabinns ex-car) and im having some problems with the throttle, it does NOT rev at all. Put the foot down and all it does is squirt a bit of fuel and fluctuate. The butterfly valve in the throttle body does NOT move at all. I have removed the body and plugged it into my Mk1 to test it and the valve SEEMS to operate perfectly on the other car. I have tested the wiring according to the manual and all seems ok: 3.3.2 Test processDetach the 6-contacts connector from the throttle valve control unit -arrow- .Measure the resistance of the throttle valve activator between contacts 3+5. Target value: 3...200 Ωthe target value is not reached: Replace the throttle valve control unit -J338- .the target value is reached: Test the voltage supply of the throttle valve control unit andthe wiring to the control unit ⇒ page 70 . the voltage supply and the wiring are OK:Replace the engine control unit ⇒ page 104 . Detach the 6-contacts connector from the throttle valve control unit.– To test the voltage, connect the multimeter to contacts 2+6 of the connector, using the auxiliary leads of the -V.A.G. 1594 A- .– Switch on the ignition. Target value: 4.5 V min – Switch off the ignition.– To test the voltage, connect the multimeter to contact 2 of the connector and earth.– Switch on the ignition. Target value: 4.5 V min – Switch off the ignition.I have scanned with VCDS and this is the log file: Thursday,06,June,2013,12:47:59:10074VCDS Version: Beta 11.3.0Data version: 20110801 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chassis Type: 6H - Seat ArosaScan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 19 25 35 56 VIN: VSSZZZ6HZ3R004889 Mileage: 175420km/109000miles-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 01: Engine Labels: 036-906-034-APE.lbl Part No: 036 906 034 BA Component: MARELLI 4LV 3410 Coding: 00011 Shop #: WSC 06441 VCID: 52AF7E7BB1CB VSSZZZ6HZ3R004889 VWZ1Z0B2181942 10 Faults Found:17989 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Basic Setting Not Performed P1581 - 35-00 - - 17962 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Conditions for Basic Settings not Met P1554 - 35-00 - - 17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer P1570 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent17950 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Implausible Signal P1542 - 35-00 - - 17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent17973 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Lower Stop not Reached P1565 - 35-00 - - 17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large P1544 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent17580 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too Low P1172 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent16885 - Vehicle Speed Sensor: Implausible Signal P0501 - 35-10 - - - IntermittentReadiness: 1010 0101 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 6X0-907-379.lbl Part No: 6X0 907 379 B Component: ABS 30 IE CAN V004 Coding: 05603 Shop #: WSC 06441 VCID: 43814B3F7EB1 No fault code found. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl Part No: 1C0 909 605 Component: 0S AIRBAG VW51 0H 0004 Coding: 12371 Shop #: WSC 06441 VCID: E1CD21B7446D 1 Fault Found:00588 - Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N95) 32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 17: Instruments Labels: None Part No: 6H0 920 900 E Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT RB4 V02 Coding: 00441 Shop #: WSC 00001 VCID: 2759FFAFEAC9 No fault code found. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 6X0-953-257.lbl Part No: 6X0 953 257 Component: IMMO 0008 Coding: 00001 Shop #: WSC 00000 VCID: FDF57DC7D8D5 VSSZZZ6HZ3R004889 VWZ1Z0B2181942 2 Faults Found:01176 - Key 07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent01176 - Key 65-10 - Unauthorized - Intermittent -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 1C0-962-258-III.lbl Part No: 1C0 962 258 AB Component: 13 Zentr.Verriegel. 0003 Coding: 00017 Shop #: WSC 69002 VCID: 67D9BFAF2A49 2 Faults Found:00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent01131 - Control Circuit for Turn Signals 25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent End --------------------------------------------------------------------- Sometimes if i leave the throttle body unplugged for a couple of hours and plug it back in it will start and drive pretty much perfectly.. then it stalls and reverts to not working. I can NOT perform a throttle body alignment because it says 'ERROR' when i try.The engine on this car has been replaced approximately 10K ago with an ANW/AXP engine, The ECU is the standard one i believe.I took the car to the garage to try and get it sorted but the owner seems to think there is no possible way to get the car running with that engine/ECU. I was told to scrap it for £150 and that i could get an identical working model for £600.WHAT A LOAD OF HORSE SH*T! All of this leads me to think that this is an ECU problem?Does anybody have any suggestions what i can try to resolve this?If it is the ECU (knowing my luck it will be) how would i go abouts switching/replacing/repairing it? Do i need a virgin unit or can i get a second hander?Should the new ECU be for the original (AUB) engine or the new (AHW/AXP) engine?Would i be able to get an aftermarket ECU to get the car to work and would this be a better option? I apologise if this has been a MAHOOSIVE post and nobody understands any of it, i dont think i do myself I'm based about 15 miles north of newcastle if anyone can recommend any garages that would take it on? Any more information just ask and ill do my best to retrieve it Dan
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