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Can the lupo 1.4 sport (100bhp) parts such as the cams and aftermarket manifolds end exhausts fit on the 1.4 S (75bhp)?

Hi guys. Looking to know if anyone has any leads for an exhaust, induction kit, decat downpipe, manifold etc. And does anyone know how strong the stock camshaft on the Lupo 1.4 75bhp is and if it could take about 100bhp? Any other modding tips would be appreciated. I’m new to the game with Lupos and wanted to know where I would stand before I bought one. I don’t want to be told to just swap the engine as I’m really not capable of that lol. I was hoping to go for just a bit more power but mainly a low and slow build.

Hi all, This might be a bit of an outlandish question but would a Volkswagen Golf Mk7 1.4L TSI R-Line Engine and 7-Speed DSG be capable of fitting inside a Lupos engine bay? I understand engine swapping is difficult, frustrating, and potentially very expensive, but the thought process was both engines are the same size (granted the Turbo) so they should both fit - and how large can a DSG be, right? Atop of this, of course, other aspects of the car would need to be changed, but most importantly I was just wondering if anyone has swapped a Golf's 1.4L into a Lupo; specifically a more modern 1.4L (like the Mk5's GT TSI DSG with 170bhp, or the R-Line TSI with 150bhp). Thank you in advance

Hi all, Was curious if anyone has attempted a project similar to this before: raising a Lupo. When the Volkswagen Lupo was announced many years back I was disappointed that no "cross" version of the vehicle was ever made, as the VW Golf Country Mk2 looked (and still looks) amazing - even if it was built in limited numbers. So, the intent of this project would be to produce a VW Lupo which looks similar to the VW Golf Country Mk2 and fulfills a similar purpose. Of course, this is a very early concept and something I quickly whipped up in Microsoft paint but this would be something similar to the final design if said project was ever to be started. To start, the vehicle would be given a DSG Gearbox from perhaps a VW Golf Mk5/6/7 to assist in driving through the United Kingdom. The proposed engines can be seen below, as you notice the displacement does not go above 1.4L, this is due to a multiple of reasons including: insurance, emission laws, fuel economy, and longevity of the project. Atop of this, I assume installing a 1.4L engine into a 1.4L car is not as difficult as perhaps swapping a 1.8L into a Lupo; though with no experience I could be wrong. Most likely, the Volkswagen Golf Mk7 1.4L TSI R-Line (150bhp) engine and 7 speed DSG will be used; this is to increase the longevity of the car as a VW Lupo in perfect (or near perfect) body condition with a (roughly) 3 year old engine and transmission will likely last for atleast another 5 years. if this project was to either begin, as well, the car would be looked after extensively to ensure its longevity. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of the vehicle would be the external roll cage and Mercedes-Benz G-Class wheel guards, said guards would roughly increase the width of the vehicle by 120mm each side (*note, not finalised). The roll cage would be attached to the vehicle at several points (as seen in the pictures below, in lime green), the two attachments in the roof are intended to form inner roll cages and connect to the floor of the car (the Chassis) for additional rigidity and support. Atop of this, the G-Class style dual side exit exhausts would also be present on the vehicle because... 😄 and a car snorkel would also be fitted. A roof rack would also be added to the vehicle, holding either an LED bar of lights or Circular LED lights similar to the front of the Lupo. The car would also have a ladder on the back to access the roof rack more easily (even if you can just jump it 😅) . The cars suspension would also need to be altered to accommodate the weight, the minimum ground clearance of the vehicle would be 5" and the proposed vehicle would not be fitted by hydraulic suspension; nor would the vehicle be fitted with 4WD (unlike the Golf Country) due to budget constraints. Cosmetically, the car would be receive the words "Lupo" on the rear similar to how the words "Golf" appear on the new Volkswagen Golf Mk8. The front of the car would receive the "mean" eyes and badgeless front end; however, the badge would still be mounted onto the bonnet of the car in a way similar to that of the Volkswagen Scirocco Mk3. The badges, of course, would all be blacked out and the car would be painted Audi Nardo Grey. The roll cages would be painted BMW Protonic Red. The brake calipers would be painted gold. The brake lights of the car would be custom made, however this is not finalised. The rear seats of the car may be removed to accommodate additional storage for when you want to go camping etc. The spare tire storage area would be removed for further storage and, when needed, (i.e. not around town) a spare tire can be held by the roof rack. The G-Class wheel guards would also have indicators on them, these would be in an as yet finalised design - but most likely be similar to that of the G-Class bonnet indicators, but placed on the guards instead. Whilst I understand this isn't the traditional or "go-to" Lupo modification, I just thought it would be fun: whether or not I, or anyone else, attempts such a modification I just wanted to get his out of my system lol. Atop of this, the vehicle originally was to become 4WD, have a DSG transmission, and a decent engine - when roughly adding up the costs the car soon exceeded £10000: which is out of my budget. As a result, the more realistic approach would be to keep the car as front wheel drive and make the roll cage myself to save on most of this projects costs. Regardless though, I hope you enjoyed my take on a Volkswagen Lupo Country. *Note* and I understand that some of the images and diagrams I have used are not accurate, but they are their to simple estimate costs/sizes and are temporary: once the project officially begins I will document all changes to the car thoroughly.

Hi everyone, I've come to the end of my googling solving absolutely none of my questions on this topic but I always seem to land on threads here so figured I'd see what those who have done it or have the know how have to say on the matter. I apologize for the long post in advance! I brought a 1.7 SDI Lupo almost a year ago now from a friend who was the 2nd owner and had always planned to turbo charge the beast. I purchased a few extras from him including: 215 (I think? memory fades quick) injectors which I believe are from a pre-PD 90 or 105. (These have already been installed and damn, what a difference!) TD03 turbo with exhaust manifold and inlet manifold from a mk3 golf TDI (So I have been told, need to double check the part numbers) Manual twisty boi boost controller for vacuum control. Front Mount Intercooler. I have since sat on these parts for the last 8 months and really want to get it done. My biggest question is Oil Feed and Return lines as my Lupo is one of the engines with the 1.9 stamp on the block but I don't know if the return is blanked or has a bolt in it. (I presume it's blanked)... I had a look at the oil pump on these SDIs and I can see that there's a set of 4 blanked off ports on the filter housing, are these enough to just slap a feed on? And for returns, I will likely just have to drill a hole in the sump, weld in an AN fitting and make a custom line? Intercoolers, I have read that I might be able to get away with no intercooler as long as I definitely plan on running a cold air intake (Which I will be given it's going to get toasty behind the block!) Oh and Oil Coolers, a must or forget it? I want something simple but reliable.... The current situation is that I used this engine to learn how to map EDC15 ECUs of which has gone really well. Mapped in the new injectors to avoid smoke and have made a map that is turbo ready to avoid stressing the bottom end with too much boost or making the gearbox **** itself.... Gotta say for an SDI it's surprising how much an injector change can do. (ECU stats according to EDCsuite show 65HP and around 160lb/ft torque. Though it's definitely nippier I wouldn't say it's quite that but maybe one day we'll dyno it properly) Popcorn and Launch Control were added for the scene points too, it sounds stupid but that's the goal. (Interestingly, the SDI Map has all the map tables for MAP/MAF and also the N75 Valve in, so while it's possible to wire them in for full boost control, I won't be doing so and just run a boost gauge with the manual controller. Sending it is what me and my friends do.) Attached is a picture of my lupo, I'll further introduce the beast in another post later.

This is only a guide on how I did it, I take no responsibility if you damage your car or harm yourself in any way doing this. My lupo is 2003 and has no aircon. Got my radiator from eurocarparts as online you have 5 different options. Here’s the rad code I had. I’m not sure if it’s still the oem radiator. Might as well put a new thermostat in whilst you’re at it. I ordered one with the housing that connects to the radiator hose as apparently they are prone to breaking. MK2 suggested flushing it with dishwasher tablets as the system was oily so I did it 6 times. Dissolved a tablet, put fresh water in with it, ran the car for 20 minutes, waited til it hit about 50c on my obd scanner(can buy them for 20 quid on eBay) and drained all the water. I’d then wait about 30 mins until it said 30c before flushing it with a hosepipe. You don’t want to put cold water into a hot engine! It cleared up all the oil too. Top tip, remove the thermostat for a better flush experience. I also assume that you have knowledge on flushing an engine. For the thermostat, I’ll add some pics with instructions to this thread once my new one comes. Tools needed 10mm socket with a driver and an extension 8mm socket for thermostat housing torque bits(unsure on size) flat screwdriver pipe pliers( to remove the horrible spring clips from the hoses) New antifreeze Remove these Then wrap some tape around a flat screwdriver to pry out the indicator grill cover. The little white plastic rivet things might break so have some spare ones if you can. Once you’ve popped both sides, gently pull it out and use the screwdriver to push out the plastic tabs all along the bumper and the top. You’ll see them from above once you start pulling them off. Also unscrew the indicator bulbs to get it off completely. It’s easier to unscrew them as opposed to getting the clip off the bulb. it should leave you with this Undo the three supports and pull them back. Someone grinded mine off in the middle. Once you’ve done this, you’ll have space to pull out the radiator. Now we’ll go and disconnect the radiator from the cover and hoses. Use the 10mm socket to remove the fan as it’s easier to get to the hoses that way. If yours are like mine and the bottom bolt is rusted on and just turns, remove only the top two and tie it to the left of you. Remove the fan plug and the radiator temp sensor plug too. You’ll need to pry off the metal bracket on the fan plug with a flat screwdriver, it should then just slide out. We’ll remove the hoses now whilst the radiator is still bolted in. Make sure it’s not hot or you’ll burn yourself. whilst I was doing this I disconnected the overflow bottle, tied off the bottom feed and put some degreaser with boiling water in. Left it for the duration of me fitting the radiator then flushed it with a hosepipe for ten minutes. Now that you removed the pipes with the pipe pliers, there are 4 10mm bolts to remove. Your radiator will now slide out of the front where the brackets are. Make sure you take it easy so you don’t damage the new one going in. If your radiator is brand new, screw the bolts in halfway as it needs to cut a new thread into the plastic and it’s a pain when the radiator is already in the car. Remove them and then install the radiator. You can also remove the fan temp sensor and install it to the new one whilst it’s out. Everything is now in reverse. Put the new one in, bolt it in and connect the bottom hose. Bolt the fan back in, plug the fan and the sensor in. Before you put in the new thermostat or attach the top radiator hose, start filling the top rad hose until coolant starts coming out of the top of the radiator. Connect the top rad hose, install the thermostat, connect the hose at the bottom of the overflow tank and fill that up to the maximum level. Make sure all is connected and start the car with the coolant cap off. Once the thermostat opens, you might have to add more coolant and keep a close eye on the cars temperature. Once you see the coolant circulating and it doesn’t want more, close the cap to pressurise the system and check for leaks. Your coolant light might start flashing, if it doesn’t want any more coolant, switch the car off and on to reset the coolant light. Now keep an eye on the system. You’ll see steam from the radiator, this is normal as we’ve spilled coolant and water all over. The fan should come on at 96c. If you haven’t got the obd diagnostic tool, you won’t know but wait til the fan comes on and the temperature is stable for about 20 minutes. If so, put the grill back on and go for a test drive. Hope this helps at least one person.

Hi Everyone Had another thread to double check that my headgasket blew but after some testing, I'm now sure it has. Has anyone got any tutorials or photos on how to change them? I've searched high and low all day but can't find anything on google or here. It looks pretty straight forward but someone mentioned about the valves or cams that might need redoing, is this correct? Whilst I'm at it, I might as well change the cambelt so a how to for that would be nice too. Thanks guys

Hi everyone I'm new here so sorry for signing up and going straight to the point. I've had oily coolant since I bought the car last year and it never bothered me. The radiator had a slow leak for 3 weeks but I just kept topping it up as I could see water dripping from the front. Drove today and saw steam coming from the bonnet, gauge was bang on in the middle as normal but I pulled over and saw water boiling out of the expansion tank. I now know 90% that its probably the headgasket that went. Is it worth fixing the engine or just buying another one to put in? Thought about doing it myself but someone said it's quite tricky. Any help or advice appreciated. Thanks https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aa9pldmPjuY

2001 VW LUPO 1.0L For sale in Leicestershire 98,331 Miles 3 Owners MOT DUE APRIL 2020 (extended to October due to COVID-19) Fully serviced 4 x tyres in good condition Engine light is on but VW could not turn off. No engine issues relating to this proven by multiple passes on MOT The vehicle is CAT D as of 2008 but no issues following as the vehicle has ran fine for the 12 years I have owned it £400

Looking to buy a front splitter for my gti. Cant seem to find much online, just wondering if anyone had purchased one before or had any recommendations? Thanks

Hi guys I recently purchased a lupo 1.4 S and it’s running low on oil from the previous owner, it has roughly 84000 on the clock. Can anyone give me any advice on what oil to top it up with. Thankyou

Proper struggling to find a new one of these. Part Num is 6N0199851AH which is for the SDI I don't mind it being aftermarket brand like Moog or Febi etc Am I gonna end up at TPS..? Thanks

I have a 2000 lupo 1.4 auto, Will i be able to fit 15x7 wheels et20? or will it rub?

I have a 2000 lupo 1.4 auto, Will i be able to fit 15x7 wheels et20? or will it rub?

Hi guys, ive had the attached P0100 fault pop up on my car pointing to the MAF sensor but I can’t seem to locate it or find a replacement MAF anywhere that would fit. Am I being simple or does the Lupo gti not use a MAF sensor ? Bonus Fault - if anyone has any idea what the P1503 fault code could be for the alternator (I’ve already put a new alternator and belt on) you’d be helping big time lol

I recently bought a VW lupo 1.0 and it has an issue with the heater that it doesn't work on any setting it originally had an issue with water leaking into the car due to blocked drain holes below the windscreen. The car has had the entire interior removed bar the dashboard ,doorcards and the headliner everything else had been removed to be cleaned and dried out. After this had been done I moved onto the issue of the heater not working so I bought a used heater resistor which is known good but still didn't work. The fan is fully functional as was tested by being connected directly to the battery the fuse has been tested and replaced and is not the issue does anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong?

Hi guys! Looking for a din cup and coin holder to fit MK1 VRS. Needs to be one from either from Lupo or 6n polowith square corners NOT the 6n2 one that has rounded corner! Anyone selling one that would post to Northern Ireland? Cheers!

Hello, my gear linkage is heavy when moving the stick forwards and backwards. I’m guessing this is the cable or something connecting the gear lever to the box? Any ideas what I could do to fix this? thanks

Hello! I am a new but old member, I just got myself a little run about lupo! I haven't been on this forum since 2008 when I bought my first one! Im going to start this off and keep it updated for the cars journey through my ownership. It's a 2004 1.7SDI. Perfect for daily workhorse life. I got it of a great family who had lost time and money trying to diagnose the faults. To kick things off, I wil upload a picture of the faults. Apparently it could need a new ECU but could be the relay 109 that I have been researching. The faults were cleared and came back each time. Any help appreciated!

Greetings, I just ordered an OBDEleven adapter to read&clear codes and also change some features of the car. Is it possible to code a function to shutdown power when key is off the ignition or the car is locked? (Even when the key is off you can still plug anything to the lighter port and use it. That's bad if you leave the equipment connected when away from the car for some hours. The car can run out of battery if you forgot your smartphone while charging it) I'm aware turning off all the power could result in shutting off the millage and time screens when the car is locked. Thanks in advance

£995 Make: SEAT Model: Arosa 1.4 TDI s MOT: May 2020 TAX: £30 per year Engine size: 1.4 Turbo Fuel type: Diesel Mileage: 72,639 (Will increase slightly as still in use) Location: Benfleet, Essex Description including modifications: Seat Arosa 1.4 TDI S Perfect first car or daily driver, cheap to run, cheap to insure. Small hatchback that has never missed a beat. Genuine low miles (I haven't found a cheaper 1.4 TDI with less mileage) £30 tax per year MOT until May 2020 returns 60+ MPG Optimistic tow bar Original Seat alloys included with purchase (currently has JDM Wedssport RS5) Included BNIB front and rear brakes Bad Bits Hasn't had Cam belt changed in my ownership 55K-72K (Runs fine but just to be on the safe side) 2 small stone chips on the windscreen (not an MOT failure as not in view of driver) Zapper on keys doesn't work (Hasn't bothered me putting the key in the door) Drivers electric window works but has a sequence of going down before going up Images: As attached Price: £995 Contact: kmunson1993@gmail.com

How do I remove the 2 attached wires ?? Tried pulling on them with no success any specific tool I can use ???

Hello fellas, I'm thinking about changing my Lupo's lights to LED. From what I read it's a H4 bulb. If I get an H4 LED from Ebay will the car accept it with no handwork needed? Any recommendations? Thanks in advance!

Hi all, I recently passed my driving test and my first car is a 2001 1L Lupo E, I've had it a little while and it was a bit of a banger when I bought it but I've had a lot of work done to it. So far I've had front wheel bearings replaced, all new tyres, new track rods (think that's what they're called), all wheels have been balanced, tracking has been done and I've had a new timing belt fitted. Anyway in a few weeks I'm planning a road trip with my girlfriend that's about a 3hr drive and its all on the motorway 😐 . I've noticed at about 55mph my car starts to shake pretty bad but it also gets progressively worse as I get faster (never been above 75ish mph) and just wondering if anyone has got any ideas as to what it could be so I can try to get it sorted before the big trip lol?

Hello! I'm a new owner of a beautiful 2005 Lupo GTI, all the way from Canada...I've had the car for 3 months and it has now decided to crap out, which makes me really upset. It's really hard to find a 6-speed transmission here. Especially for a car that isn't even readily available. If anyone can direct me to a site or someone that is willing to ship one over that would be awesome! Thanks TJ